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Messages - rocketfrog

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 38
1
Suzuki / Re: RM400T frame crack?
« on: June 24, 2021, 07:31:08 am »
Powder coat for show, paint for a pro. Get it magnetic particle tested, you can see a crack through non conductive surface finishes (reduced sensitivity with thickness of coating)

2
Yamaha / Re: 1983 YZ250 fuel tank wanted
« on: May 27, 2021, 03:41:13 pm »
Hey mate I have a NOS tank, rear guard, seat and side panels for YZ125K 1983 OEM Yamaha in Euro clean White. I will need to check if the tank is compatible with 250 but I think the fuel tap is on the other side. I will have a look at them both and see though.

3
Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild
« on: May 27, 2021, 03:38:21 pm »
Nice K Alex, I scored some NOS stuff for YZ125K a while back hoping to build a 125K but I haven't gotten around to it yet. Where did you get those frok boots from? they are 38mm yes? I am after  a set in Black for my YZ250F '79. Those look close to OEM style, are they Daystar?

4
Tech Talk / Re: Electroplaters
« on: October 12, 2020, 09:38:12 am »
Depending on the hardness the baking process to stress relieve varies.

For example I tested Yamaha axle and pivot shaft at 40 (HRC) Rockwell C which means that the bake time should be @ 190-220 degrees C for >14 Hours post plating.

5
Wanted / Re: 1975 Suzuki RM125 S
« on: October 07, 2020, 02:46:08 pm »
Airbox on Marks vintage swap now, better grab it quick, these dont come up everyday!

6
Tech Talk / Re: Electroplaters
« on: October 07, 2020, 02:31:07 pm »
You will get the best finish if you do the prep. This is the key to a quality finish.

First remove all the paint and rust using paint stripper and a wire brush, then carefully de-burr fasteners as necessary (sometimes you will find a raised metal from tool slippage etc). I use a wire wheel on my bench grinder and an assortment of small wire brushes and tube brushes attached to the drill to get inside of bores such as nuts and spacers.  A mild solution of Hydrochloric acid will remove rust and old plating, Citric acid will work as well. Be careful with high strength steels such as axles and pivot shafts, sometimes prolonged immersion will cause embrittlement so if in doubt leave these parts aside (most chassis and engine hardware and brackets, chain pullers and dust covers etc, will be fine).

Experiment with dwell time for zinc removal, it only takes a few minutes and you will see the fizzing occur soon after you place the parts in your acid. Rinse the parts thoroughly in fresh water, it does not matter if surface rust appears after the wash, the plater will process the parts before plating to prepare them. In fact some platers prefer a uniform film of oxidation. Over cautious "helpful" customers will coat the parts will any number of oily, waxy or silicone preservatives that the platers pre-treatment might not remove adequately.

At the very least, make sure you strip all the paint and clean the parts up as best you can. This will ensure the parts plate well.

7
Tech Talk / Re: Electroplaters
« on: October 07, 2020, 08:56:33 am »
So phone around and ask for prices. Usually electroplaters with a barrel line can do it cheaper because there is less labour involved with wiring up each individual part. The difference in pricing can be hundreds depending on what your doing. By the time some one wires up 72 spokes and has the rest of a bike to go- well they are going to charge for the time. Alternatively give it a try yourself. Janes sell a kit that will have you plating your own parts whenever you like at very little ongoing cost. It is time consuming but satisfying. The kit would be less than $220 delivered and is an Australian business. In the 80's I could get every nut and bolt on a full sized Aussie car plated for $60 - but those days are gone and prices have risen. You would expect to pay between $80 and & $120 for an ice cream container of bike parts in todays money. Sending the parts to Sydney might be cheaper if you want to do a one off job? There are lots of Plating shops with barrel line set ups in Syd and Melb. 

8
Yamaha / Re: Yz490 kick starter
« on: September 30, 2020, 11:57:00 am »
Yes the bend on the later model YZ levers is far better than the "straight " lever. Its good to know that an easily procured part can be simply adapted to the older engine without too much trouble and at a reasonable cost too. Thanks Scotty, well done you.

9
Yamaha / Re: Yz490 kick starter
« on: September 29, 2020, 10:39:52 am »
The alloy lever strikes the knuckle retaining nut? Is that right?

10
Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild
« on: August 13, 2020, 04:04:29 pm »
Thanks for taking us on the journey Alex, your bikes are swish! I always like to start with a stock set up and tweak from there, stock is usually predictable and reliable. Old worn out carbies can be a wild goose chase to tune and air leaks are destructive. Sounds like you have a great philosophy for tracking down gremlins methodically - remember 99% of electric problems are fuel and vice versa!! What brand are the fork gaiters on your sons 125k? They look like they fit well.

Cheers Jason

11
For Sale / YZ125H/IT250/IT465H NOS Fork inner tube
« on: August 04, 2020, 01:51:32 pm »
I have for sale a 4V2-23110-L0-00 INNER TUBE 1 NOS $150 (I only have the one). International seller sent me the the incorrect part and I cannot use it.

12
Yamaha / Re: Stainless spoke sets
« on: August 04, 2020, 01:39:04 pm »
Fastline spokes in Vic, Bruce Lotherington will make spokes from samples in Stainless. Bruce can make the single butted spokes as per OEM using STD diameter nipples.

13
Yamaha / Re: Yz490 kick starter
« on: August 04, 2020, 01:30:42 pm »
Well Scotty, you have a YZ490K 1983, and the Partzilla parts diagram shows me that the starter (based on the knuckle part number 23x-15621-02-00) will fit a stack of bikes up to and including the last 490's and the wr500. The interesting part is that the list also includes the YZ250U (1988). The starter assembly from the YZ250U subs to fit most YZ250/WR250 2 stokes throughout the 90's. The short YZ250 Alloy lever would be terrible on a 490, but this is where it gets interesting.......


The funky bendy (and longer) alloy lever that was first used on the YZ400F and subsequent YZ426F uses the very same knuckle as the 90's 2 stroke YZ/WR's.


My rationale is thus that the kick start lever from a YZ400/426 should match the splines on a 1983 YZ490. The actual bend and function of the lever might not be suitable but for a few bucks on a second hand lever or better yet borrowed lever to verify if it will work you could be a life saver for everyone in the same boat as you. I cant help any further than that as I do not own or have access to a 490 nor a YZ400F.


So there you go, YZ400/426 Kickers would have to be easy to find (still available new from Partzilla for the princely sum of $122 USD or from Trooper Lu's @ $220 AUD). Please let us know if you have a win.

Cheers Jason

14
Wanted / Re: 1983 KX250 parts
« on: July 09, 2020, 07:42:28 am »

15
Wanted / Re: YZ / IT rear rim
« on: July 07, 2020, 10:39:53 am »
OOps, no it is a 4.5 x 18 Inch Gold Hallman/Sun metals rim date coded 3/79. Be a good grab for a period correct YZ400F build.

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