Messages

1

General Discussion / NZ Woodville MXGP live on Ctas starting in about an hour at 10am here.

« on: January 30, 2021, 07:20:43 am »

Just a link or two incase you want a look see. Live today & tomorrow. Son is on one camera. Don't fancy that in the heat of the day. Been running for 60 years this year. Think i raced from the second or third year when the internationals arrived from UK & Switzerland & Germany. I started on a 350 AJS road bike with knobbly rear tire but think i still had the road front tire lol. Took the muffler off & the rear guard off at the hinge halfway up. Then promptly broke the front downtube at the steering head. It's gone from strength to strength through that time. It's just a normal dairy farm during the year but is transformed with heavy machinery now days at this time every year. I guess internationals will be missing due to travel restrictions. Hope the links work or click the bottom one to work your way through.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_161195186519812&key=f42346b8c9656ec6675da3997f77e0b0&libId=kkiqi6980100x6pp000DL950rjqn3&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.yamaha-enduros.com%2Findex.php%2Fforums%2Fthe-lounge%2F14507-nz-woodville-mxgp-live-on-ctas-starting-in-about-an-hour-at-10am-here&v=1&opt=true&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ctaslive.co.nz%2FCtasLiveVideoMXChamps.aspx%3Fv%3D0ChGuRtwShVpP0%26ctasvods%3DLive%26vidonly%3D2&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.yamaha-enduros.com%2Findex.php%2Fforums&title=NZ%20Woodville%20MXGP%20live%20on%20Ctas%20starting%20in%20about%20an%20hour%20at%2010am%20here.%20-%20Vintage%20Enduro%20Discussions&txt=www.ctaslive.co.nz%2FCtasLiveVideoMXChamps...svods%3DLive%26amp%3Bvidonly%3D2
www.ctaslive.co.nz/wsMXChamps.aspx
www.ctaslive.co.nz/Live_Timing.aspx
www.ctaslive.co.nz › Live_Timing

2

Wanted / Re: Yamaha CDI with alloy case, two wire pulser with high and low charge coils wires

« on: June 20, 2020, 11:19:32 am »

Probably only confusing the issue, but i had a DT360A ride to work bike that stuffed the retard/starting side of the double pulser. Red/White & Green/White. Was a full flywheel [like an SC500] but same principle as the internal rotor YZ & double pulser same colours. Anyhoo--being to tight to go buy a pulser i found the advance side was ok. So wired it [not sure how 30 years later] so it was on advance from the get go. Just had to kick it right & not baby kick it or she'd bike like an older points mag 360. Decomp softened the blow though. 30 years ago but think i earthed the faulty side of the pulser [but if that sides faulty would earthing do anything] & earthed the un-used same wire out of the box--so say i used the Red/White & earthed the Green/White, but it worked & never looked back. Those advance in a one step not gradual like modern stuff & seemed to be purely a retard to help starting, then advance from just above kick speed & stay there.
But--now i realise your problem is the exact opposite with the box faulty so that stuffs my theory except can you cross wire something opposite to my stupid theory & make it work again--as in start & run on advance using the advance side of the box. Starting to wish i hadn't start typing lol. Sorry bout that.
But wait--there's more. If ya desperate i've got one bike [DT125LC] operating minus the pulser & using a Coil/Box combined from a little Suzy LT50/JR50/or RG50 road bike. Source coil had about 350 Ohms so just ran the single output wire straight to the Coil/Box [only one wire in or think was a kill wire connection too, but only one power wire in. I realise yours has a Red & a Brown so i dunno--earth one end & if that don't work then reverse the earthing end. Have a happy dayyy--.

3

Wanted / Re: Yamaha RT1 Clutch actuator

« on: February 17, 2020, 12:53:20 pm »

Wow they're scarce 'as'. I adapted an RD350 one into my cover. They're 4 start & steel with a nylon outer so bore the alloy out & insert the better one. I made a cock up & fitted mine from outside in & retained by the little cover [wrong but works for last 30 years] should be fitted from inside out of course so it's pushing & retained. Maybe i [thought] i had a clearance issue--too long ago. There other new ones being made too, just google away or get into the forum i get lost in as was plenty about that. Scroll down to the bottom of the page link & someones showing you how to do [what i shoulda done lol]. I go by RT325 on there & that's another story [of short stroking a 360], or suppose i could be RT280 due to long stroking a 250--Umm it all gets worse from there!!.

https://yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/search-2?query=clutch%20actuator&searchdate=all&childforums=1&start=310

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Tech Talk / Re: Bearing grades

« on: February 16, 2020, 08:34:07 pm »

My understanding is the extra clearance is in the bearing race not the fit on the shaft or in the case. So on one of my old [yamy] 360's on the mag side because the bearing is super tight on the shaft & equally tight in the case it's being externally squashed & internally expanded, so i use a C4 [or should be--been a while], but on the primary side only the outer is very tight & crank is a zero clearance sliding fit so i'd use a C3.

Talking Tin plates on Honda cranks i made a heavy band to clamp around so i could beat it a [little bit] but spread the load so as not to dent it--[was the plan anyway lol] so as to align the crank after replacing the rod assembly. Honda RS125 that was, about "92 by memory.

Back to bearings--on my bucket i used fiber caged high speed bearings on my TF100--well it made me feel i was going fast if nothing else. Had no problems with them ever.

5

General Discussion / NZ Roarace Champs Free on Ctas.

« on: January 12, 2020, 08:57:35 am »

Not dirt but NZ Road Race Champs live & Free on Ctas. Timing link & Video link. Hope they work. Chat room & scroll back plus race order links along the bottom.

http://www.ctaslive.co.nz/wsNZSBK.aspx

http://www.ctaslive.co.nz/CtasLiveVideoNZSBK.aspx?v=0ChGuRtwShVpP0&ctasvods=Live&vidonly=2

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Yamaha / Re: YZ125G Build

« on: September 06, 2019, 07:13:16 pm »

Been a few year since i had mine new--well jeez damn near 40 year [is that right--or back to school] Anyway, shock adjuster spinning. Could be two things but if its been serviced i doubt its either but the alloy/titanium rod corrodes & sticks in which case you'll be able to winf the adjuster away & back to it but no more. Or--if it's been adjusted right down to full damping & clicked one click too far [tight click] it'll stick the metering needle into its seat at the base of the shaft. Had a bit of luck just shocking it by upending the shock & driving it into something like a lead block. Actually i used a solid alloy block on the concrete floor & got away with one then next one was stubborn & egg shaped the end bushed bit [bugger] but it popped the needle back. Those ones were purely over tightened not corroded rod. Other unlikely possibility is the cross pin under the rubber caps of the adjuster is missing. Now 'if' the adjuster's been bottomed out tight then backed of with the pin seated then the damping will be so hard you'll wonder what the hell!!, push it down & it'll pretty much stay there or creep back plus hard to push down by hand on the bike--big jump would do it as flexes the damper washers. So [essay sorry] if it's corroded & stuck in the position for damping its been in forever then maybe best left alone--pull pants up & carry on. While i'm at it & think i've mentioned it once way back--the floating rear brake plate--make sure its free or it'll stop the suspension. moving [extreme case--but]. I found that out on mine as i'm a bugger for overtightening axles & eventually after many times the brake plate sleeve got swollen by enough to stop suspension returning. Panic during a meet fixing a puncture & bugger me what's going on, back nut of 1/4 turn was enough but had to dress the spacer &/or ream the brake plate steel insert. Also [but not in this case] the sleeve dents the end cap washer thingy & take up end float & 'could' or would have a similar effect. Had mine on Alky [methanol--shell racing special] with by memory Castrol MSSR oil mix. Certainly turned on too. Ran that in my 125F before it too. Where was i--forgotten the question lol. Love ya resto. I haven't got the patience i'm afraid, but admire them that do 'have'.

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General Discussion / Eric & Douglas.

« on: August 24, 2019, 06:06:58 pm »

Anyone old enough to remember Eric & Douglas in either the Green Horror mag or the other one. Won't mention "Cream In Your Coffee Madam" or "Telecum" coz it was rood wasn't it. Just having a laugh & thought google could find it but got google stumped--so doesn't know everything. Man we used to fight over who got the mag first at work at smoko time as the boss got all those & the English M/cycle news think it was. Smoke got extended on those days haha.

8

Yamaha / Re: Yz490 decompression valve

« on: August 16, 2019, 08:44:43 am »

On my yz465g in 1981 after it was a year old & wanted to use it in enduros for a change, i drilled a hole exactly like AG175's or RD400's have to soften the comp for kick starting. Might've made it slightly larger than i should've but worked a treat. Did sound fluffy at idle but still rip snorted above that just the same. Hole is open all the time as you've probably gathered on the models mentioned. Was worried drilling it but never broke through into open air & was pretty happy when it arrived in the exhaust port outlet. Plan was [if i didn't like it] to tap a grub screw in at the bottom end to block it off--but sold it & bought an "82 490J lol--but i won't go into that story with crap rear suspension. Back to the hole--i can't exactly recall the position but think just below halfway between top of port & top of cylinder, maybe a 1/3 up from port. Wasn't easy to start the drilling by memory but possibly ground a mark in cylinder wall. Could damn near sit on the seat to start it which helped when stuck in difficult situations in an enduro & stalled it trying to trials ride around an obstacle. Bloody silly idea in the first place using it as an enduro bike. IT250 would've been 'the go'.

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CZ / Re: 360 sidepipe pistons

« on: July 21, 2019, 07:48:56 pm »

Tony who do you use locally for boring or honing nowdays. Just handy info to have i'm that out of touch. Thanks Morley.
ps, jeez your Z's run big clearances or are my maths up the creek just doing it in my head--0.09mm clearance [3.6 thou], mind you most of ;my' jap stuff is probably looser lol. I'm still live in the couple of thou times but different piston material different clearances i suppose--like seizco which rattled till warmed up in my yam360 but then quietened & went for years with recommended double yam clearance by memory.

10

Yamaha / Re: yz 490 k - ign

« on: June 26, 2019, 08:51:17 am »

Yes. My 490K came from the US to NZ with an IT stator with lighting coil. I suspected the original was still ok from things that transpired so got the original sent then oneday used it on my YZ465 motor [in an IT250K frame]. Just a warning--do the flywheel up good & tight & held solidly with a holding tool against the footrest etc for a positive feel. My 490k as i said, had an IT stator & the seller unbeknown to me had changed the stator prior to crating the bike up. Said he gave it quick rev & that was it. Quick rev have shorn off the crank key!!, then first kick here fkn near broke my leg with kick back. I knew straight away what was going on but was too late anyway as had taken tooth of the intermediate gear & bent a tooth on the kick gear. Was pretty pissed off [& limping] Buuttt fixed it & carried on for 10 years or so. Anyway, long story about bugger all but be careful please.

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Tech Talk / Re: Not even a Fart

« on: May 12, 2019, 11:21:04 pm »

sorry, typing so slow, matcho mick said it all in a few words lol.

12

Tech Talk / Re: Not even a Fart

« on: May 12, 2019, 11:17:17 pm »

Well, not making sense. Umm--people always say fat blue spark but cdi ignitions are usually concentrated & not fat/blue as such, bit ok assume it's still  normal as a cdi system usualy sparks at kick speed or you get nothing at all if voltage is too low to fire it. [not had a points much earlier mag fitted? of a yz80d]. Anyway--is it sucking to your hand over the manifold with carb off. If so then is the plug getting wet with carb 'on'. Mind you start fluid should get some life. Has the right side crank seal blown out of the case as that'll stop any suck. Well, so would the left seal if totaly shot out of the case but right side is harder to get at for a look, except you'd likely have gearbox/cluch oil in the crankcase. Right, so my first guess is the crank key has buggered off that locates the flywheel in the right place for timing. I'd still think start fluid would et a explosion of sorts even if no chance of running. I've seen at work [in 1962 lol] a Bantam with the base gasket NOT cutout for the transfers--did try to run. I've seen a pipe [weed eater parked for a year] & a mason bee filled the exhaust outlet solid. Couldn't suck so couldn't blow. or was that a girl i knew. Anyhoo, piston back to front with windows to the exhaust, but you'd still get a fart i'd thing. Rebuilt with a short conrod but has compression so forget that. Got me stuffed so check the flywheel key & if it sucks against ya hand on the inlet. Had a "79H new for the kids. Was a flyer too. Worked in the local Yamy shop. Great times, & that reminds me i had a 400F new that year. Bring back the "70's. Hang about--had a 465G in "80, so bring back the "80's. Hope you get it running without loosing too much hair.

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Tech Talk / Re: Filing throttle slides, richer.

« on: May 07, 2019, 07:17:41 pm »

Yep done that & been caught out by "everything"l Possibility for the slide then to sit on top of the needle jet where it sticks up' Also a possibility that it could get past the guide pin in the side on full song then all hell can happen. Just take care that's all, & as said--best to buy a new slide. Maybe go richer on the pilot which might help the leaner cutaway in transition to the needle [or not lol]. Would have to lean off the air screw a little [maybe], but the richer jet could help via the compensating hole [one goes straight up [think that's it] & one comes off that zt an angle [which i think is for idle only] Confused -- hell i am!!.

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Tech Talk / Re: So what is the story with lowering transfer ports?

« on: April 22, 2019, 09:37:48 am »

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1970-Yamaha-DT1-CMX-Cylinder-amp-Head-DT1-GYT-Piston-Port-Vintage-Racing-Parts-VMX-/352128162739?hash=item51fc795bb3&nma=true&si=0UA7WZMExJTENgEAPqBmfMGFnqM%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Check out this cylinder & pics [if link works] as you can see the rear transfer is lower at the bottom than the other one. no idea why but have seen that on my go fast cylinders off various models. I'm sure my chrome gyt dt1 cylinder was like that but i don't have that cylinder any more.

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Tech Talk / Re: Hmmm looking for more top-end. Piston Port 250.

« on: April 11, 2019, 08:03:38 am »

Could be a mis-match of pipe to porting, not that i'm an expert but have mucked around with different pipe combos on bucket racer 100/125 two strokes with a hell of a variation in performance. Had a wiseco or LA sleeve in a DT1 GYT worn out chrome cylinder & had a certain homemade underneath pipe on it which i'd had on something else & had worked great but on this cylinder it just went flat but was excellent up to that point. Anyway--was just a thought. Also stupid things that happen--yz80H, last of the air cooled [or was it a "79 never mind] came out with a D shaped exhaust outlet from cylinder liner to where the pipe bolts on. What would yamaha know lol so [on my kids mates bike] the shop made the port nice & round back to the liner but didnt touch the liner. Thing was bloody hopeless [so i didn't do it to our one lol]. Panicking as was a big meet coming up & this kid was in the running. So took it home to the farm & experimented. Cut a D shape plate [D as in flat across top D] set the plate trapped behind the gasket & fixed it 100% so got the port welded up to reshape. Things ya never forget haha. Everyone was stressing out for a bit with meeting approaching.