OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: suzuki 400 on September 12, 2009, 07:56:29 pm
-
has anyone had success putting tapered bearings in steering heads on rm465 or others i found on mine the dust seal wont go on as the beaing outer is bigger and the top bearing wont go down far enough to allow enough thread to show ,there are ways around this but im a mechanic not machinest soi dont have a spare lathe sitting out the back ;D
-
that should be head ;D ;Dsorry i got a good laugh from that :D
-
I take it you are talking about a All Balls head set kit ..... I have experience the same problem
ended up using bottom taper bearing & seal and re- installing Suzuki top roller and dust cap ;)
Put your bearings side by side and compare hieghts ;) as you have mentioned a lathe is the only way to solve this problem.
-
The lower one is easy but I searched high and low for a taper bearing to suit the top of my 250x. I think it was the outside dimension that was impossible to get.
It sounds like you already have some bearings. Have a look at some of the documents here and look for thinner bearing.
http://www.nsk.com/products/rollerbearing/tapered/#tab4
I had to reuse the old loose ball type in the end in mine for the top.
Chris
Edit: Old fart just beat me to it.
-
That little shoulder on the steering stem that stops the new tapered bearing sitting down any further has to be moved down another 5-7mm and then you will get the thread needed at the top- and yes it is a lathe job.
-
Which brings to mention, why do they sell a product full well knowing it requires machine work to make it work ??? no mention of this in thier spiel ::)
-
it,s looking like i will end up using the original ball set up at the top ,and to save other people the hassle of being ripped off for a bearing they can,t use the bottom one is 32006x about 13-14 dollars (may fit other rm model not just 465)i will go to the local guys at SKF up here in Cairns and see what they can do about finding a bearing for the top( balls type),these guys grew up with rm,s it,s and pe,s so they go the xtra mile and rarely come up with nothing cheers and thanks for the comments ;D
-
sounds like a problem right rom when All Balls built the kit. Bottom line, dont use the All Balls kit and use a generic brand like the kits from Link - http://www.linkint.com.au/view/page/1.html
-
Same ole problem there Leith and also with Pyramid kits .....been there done that :(
pretty sure they all source from same place
-
Which brings to mention, why do they sell a product full well knowing it requires machine work to make it work ??? no mention of this in thier spiel ::)
I knew exactly what the contents of this thread would be before i opened it
F%#king All Balls and Pyramid kits are shite, i had exactly the same problem with my RM250.........
-
Ok try Moose bearings then. i got a Moose brand kit from www.denniskirk.com for my PE250 and they are fine. They are the exact same taper tollers, from memory they were made in Korea.
-
Press out the steerer tube, you need to do it anyway to get the lower bearing off it, have someone machine an extra 8mm down the tube and use the All Balls kit and you will never look back. I'm sure there are plenty of people on this forum, myself included that will do it for you. I have 9 Suzuki's that have i have done this to, it's just the price to pay from going from a ball bearing system to a tapered roller system.
-
Just buy a lathe.
-
I have never had to press out a steerer tube to remove a lower bearing even when there is not lip to get a puller onto it or to knock it off with a chisel. What i do is get an angle grinder and cut in two cuts in the bearing cone, then i have a nice groove to knock the cone off with a cold chisel.
-
Lozza i will come round and borrow yours ;D anyway for now it,s a new tapered bearings at the bottom and thanks to my skf dealer i will keep with the balls on top as he supplied a life times worth for free ,just the waste of cash that bugs me >:( ,however as i also have 2 pe,s a 250 and 400 reacon i will get the 82 465 shocks and triples to fit that which i will machine weld or turn down what ever to get it to fit ,i have the triples allready i just need the forks
-
Sorry to dredge up an OLD thread.
The extra bit that needs to be machined down:
The instructions that come with my All Balls kit says to increase the bearing surface below the thread from 10mm (mine is currently 7.5!) to 16mm.
Guys on here are saying an extra 5-8mm
Just to confirm my understanding: as long as enough material is removed, an extra couple of mm won't hurt as the lower edge of the bearing shouldn't reach the shoulder (which has been moved about 8mm)
-
A first for me.
A big press and some heat worked.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/skypig/IMG_7758.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/skypig/media/IMG_7758.jpg.html)
Before
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/skypig/IMG_7760.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/skypig/media/IMG_7760.jpg.html)
After
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/skypig/IMG_7777.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/skypig/media/IMG_7777.jpg.html)
For extra practice, I pressed it all together without the lower seal.
It's apart again now, with the stem in the freezer....again.
-
I brought this to thier attention about 6 years ago in an email
All balls advise there was no machine work required and l must be installing it wrong.
Liar liar pants on fire.
-
Yes, I was very disappointed when the bearings arrived.
Thinking I could put them in quickly before CD.
Think again. SO glad I read the instructions before pulling the front end off.
I feel it reflects badly on "All Balls", and when there is a choice my money will go elsewhere. And there almost always is another choice.
Anyone need the bearing numbers or measurements? ::)