OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Ji Gantor on March 11, 2009, 10:11:59 am
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This is a front wheel from my CZ400 1973.
The hub has to be cleaned and painted,
the spokes have to be replaced and
the rim needs to be cleaned and painted.
The first step is to measure the offset between the rim and the hub.
You will need a straight edge, a small ruler, some pegs and a clamp with blocks.
Place the wheel on a flat surface and set up an offset measuring device. It can take many forms this is the system I use.
Remember to measure the offset on both sides and at 6 locations around the wheel.
Ji
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As can be seen the offset on the off side or non drum brake side is 28.5mm.
Ji
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Next remove the spokes.
Try to remove the spokes if you can rather than using your bolt cutters. The old spokes and nipples may come in handy later.
Ji
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With the spokes ordered and on their way it is time to start the maids work, cleaning.
Use what ever is required, degreaser, paint stripper, wire brush...... and clean the hub.
It is always a good idea when replacing spokes to clean out the spoke holes.
I use a rifle barrel wire brush to clean out the holes.
Ji
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When I visited John Titman's new building last year, I witnessed all the wheel building machinery and processes. I was amazed at what he does for the money. He also has a great team of young men toiling away making motorcycles run true.
One of the processes is reaming out the spoke holes. This allows easy installation of the spoke and free movement when truing.
Ji
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When the spokes turn up they should be marked front, offside, inner or something like that.
Typically there are four different types of spokes per wheel. On my CZ there are only two types because the hub has offset holes. These spokes are stainless steel, 9 gauge or 3.6mm diameter (British Standard Wire Gauge).
Ji
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The original nipples on my CZ are brass (they may have been chromed but there is not one speck of chrome on them now) and I think they may look good with the gold hub.
So I have taken my time removing them so they can be reused. The spokes I purchased already came with new chrome nipples but lets see how the polished and clear coated brass ones look at the end.
Ji
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When truing a wheel or even when just tightening up a few spokes while at the track always use a designated quality spoke spanner. The nipples are only brass or alloy and with a few years of dirt they are easily stripped. This is just a suggestion after having to remove so many nipples with a pair of vice grips because someone used a pair of multi grips on them in the past.
Ji
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Oh yes,
I should give first timers the heads up on replacement rims, this is another thing that drives John Titman around the bend.
The width of my standard chromed steel CZ rim is 59.2mm with an offset on the off side of 28.5mm. A replacement Akront mud catcher rim width is 63.9mm with an offset on the off side of 30.8mm.
Remember when you change the rim type you normally change the offset and sometimes the spoke length.
Ji
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Sorry,
I know the spokes are kinda boring but hang in there just a little longer.
Some will know this while others may not.
There are at least 4 spoke lacing patterns that I know of.
They are called 1x, 2x, 3x, and 4x.
1x is the weakest while 4x is the strongest.
This 1x stuff basically means how many other spokes a spoke crosses.
The image if you can make it out is a 3x or every spoke will cross 3 other spokes on its same side of the hub. If you go back and take a good look at the image in my first posting you will see that my CZ wheel is laced as a 2x pattern.
With 4x the spokes have to be made longer so these are the dearest spokes to buy. From conversations I have had with wheel experts 4x may prove to strong, and instead of the spokes bending the hub breaks or the rim buckles. The most common patterns for Pre 75 up to Evo VMX bikes is 2x and 3x from what I have seen.
I have never done a course on spokes or spoke lacing so all this info is what I have picked up. If someone knows more or can see a mistake please be kind and point it out so we can all learn.
Ji
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I know what you are thinking
"Nice Nipple"
See a few minutes in the tumbler and old brass nipples look good enough to use again.
Ji
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When ordering your spokes measure the old ones and let your supplier know what length you want. If the spokes you ordered are to long they should be resized prior to installation. That way the starting thread is repaired especially with S/S spokes. Some wheel builders just install the oversize spokes and grind the spoke and nipple to suite. S/S spokes will retain a bur which will chop out the thread in the nipple.
Ji
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I know what you are thinking
"Nice Nipple"
See a few minutes in the tumbler and old brass nipples look good enough to use again.
ok Ji, can you give us a little more info on this "tumbler" thing? what is it? whats inside it? {that cleans the nipple}
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Hi vandy010,
Sure, it is no secret.
The tumbler that I referred to and used is for cleaning spent bullet cases. They are actually called case tumblers. You half fill them with a cleaning media that the gun shops sell, toss in your brass, switch it on and after a few hours you fish out your cleaned cases or in this case nipples.
Most competitive shooters have one of these things and even come up with their own quick clean media. The commercial media is corn cob fragments, but rice works well to. If you don't have much time pour in some Brasso and that speeds up the process. Unfortunately the Brasso makes the media sticky so it is a one off deal. I had a friend who sold me some old power lines that had been mashed up into a rubber, brass....... media and it worked Okay as well.
The media in my tumbler when I took the image is rice and I used some Brasso. As can be seen there is a black ring around the edge of the Tumbler. That is the spent Brasso and tarnish.
Ji
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If you have damaged a spoke thread the spoke is dead.
There is not a die that you can buy to fix or continue the thread on a spoke.
The machine that produces the thread on a spoke actually presses the threads into the spoke.
This is easy to check, first measure the diameter of the spoke and then measure the diameter of the threaded area. The threaded area is larger.
There is a hand operated spoke threader for push bikes and it can be adapted to motorcycle spokes I believe and it looks like the attached image.
Ji
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Ji, as informative as these posts are, for some reason my eyes constantly wander off the text and veer left ;D
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Hi mainline,
Sorry.
Ji
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no apology necessary, I wasn't complaining
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Hi mainline,
I have been asked to remove my last avatar.
She will not be coming back as you requested.
I understand that you did not complain.
My apology was for those that found it offensive.
Ji
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Does that mean , I can use it again ?
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Hi Hornet,
It is so good to see you back.
This forum is now a brigther place.
The avatar that you borrowed off me is not the one that has been sanctioned.
So, sure please use it as much as you like.
Ji
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Lets hope no one on the balcony gets offended :D LOL
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Back to the nipples , I watched my mechanic using a torque wrench and a little lube to twist them gently .
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Hi Hornet,
Yes, there is a white grease that Pro wheel builders use during lacing.
There is a torque wrench available for setting the nipples up.
They are made in the States and don't cost all that much.
If you over tighten your nipples you will get a flat spot on the rim or your rim will not be centred on the hub.
When building a wheel the rim is centred on the hub and then the rim is trued. The next process is to torque up the nipples, this is done slowly by a quarter turn on each nipple all round the wheel on both sides. When you reach the beginning again if the nipples are still not torqued up you have to repeat until they are right. The oil or grease removes most of the friction so a true torque reading can be made.
Your mechanic sounds like a great guy for working your nipples gently and using lube.
As I said they strip out so easily, and I don't mean the thread I mean the four straight sides that you place the spanner on.
Ji
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dont tell me about it :-X
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Hi Hornet,
Cool.
Ji
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I know of shops and guys who buy blank spokes and make there own so you must be able to cut a thread ?
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Hi Freakshow,
From discussions with John Titman and other wheel builders the thread is pressed into the spoke. There is a commercial threader that costs about $5000.00 but again from my understanding it presses the threads in. The threads on my 9g 3.6mm spokes are 40tpi and the only die that I have found available is a Whitworth 1/8" 40tpi but 1/8 is 3.175mm so the die will not fit onto the spoke.
Please give your guys at the shop a call and lets all see what they do. I hope there is an easy and cheap way to thread a spoke.
Ji
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A good way to remember how the spoke pattern was on the wheel before removing the spokes is by placing A4 sheets of paper in between the layers of spokes and take a photo.
On side or drum brake side. Also mark where the valve stem and rim lock holes are in the rim.
Ji
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Off side or non drum brake side.
Ji
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Please give your guys at the shop a call and lets all see what they do. I hope there is an easy and cheap way to thread a spoke.
Ji
Ask Suspension Guru Pete Hoey on the forum's here, i know his dad builds wheels and also makes his own spokes so he'd be worth a quizzing, im have a feeling he cuts his own :-\
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Hi Freakshow,
What is the name and number of the bike shop that makes their own spokes. I will give them a call and post the result here.
Ji
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Hi Walter,
Thanks for that mate.
The question is are the threads on a spoke pressed in or cut?
Ji
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Hi Walter,
I spoke to Les yesterday and he told me that he has a wheel building table but does not have a spoke thread chaser yet. He told me that the threader costs about $5000.00 and the thread is pressed into the spoke not cut. This has been confirmed by John last year. Ash wheel builders also told me the same thing.
But I am keen to see if Freakshow can show a way we can do it at home.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
Thanks mate.
I am trying to buy a hand operated press at the moment but they are not the best on S/S spokes.
HS steel rollers are required and I believe you have to go over the threads a few times.
Ji
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i roll threads with a hand operated thread machine but if its SS spokes i get John Titmans to do them.
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Hi LWC3077,
Thanks mate,
Does your hand roller look like the image I posted.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
Do you have an image of the hand roller and HS steel rollers you sell.
How much are they.
Ji
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Place some hose or tube over a rounded old screw driver and slowly pry the grease cap out (if required).
The tube should prevent any tell tail dents in the Magnesium if done gently.
Ji
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Next using a piece of ply or wood as a buffer pry out the seal.
The seal takes more prying so the tube on the screw driver will most likely leave a tell tail mark in the Magnesium hub.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
I only do a few wheels a year.
Thanks for the offer.
Great poem, it says it all.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
Yes, the wheel jig I purchased off E74 is perfect for what I do.
The ones I have seen at pro wheel builders premises are made by themselves kind of like some of the home made ones that were discussed when I was looking for mine. They don't seem to buy smick ones like the ones you import and I have now, except Don Newell he has the best I have ever seen.
Do you carry spare parts for my unit, if I need some.
The wheel building table I referred to before is for setting the off sets and making sure the rim is centred on the hub. In the centre is a lathe chuck that holds the drum true to the rim. There are level adjusters that set the off set on one side of the rim. When all these 3D measurements are right the spokes are laced and the nipples are turned until finger tight. From there the wheel is taken to a wheel jig or wheel truing stand where the fine tuning is done.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
The axle hand wheel on the right hand side has a crack in it. It does not effect its performance but I am compulsive and do not like looking at it.
0.2 tolerance without using a wheel jig that is great.
With all due respect to Les and I hope this will not up set him.
The problem with Les having such a machine is where is he going to get the time to use it. He is flat out servicing the phone orders now. And he is going to make spokes as well.............
I hope he hires a young Don Newell because that is what he needs to do all the fun work around the shop.
Ji
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OK spoke to the man and its a presser not actually a cutter, its a little black box like a drill sharpener and the blanks go in and come out with a thread, it seams the thread is higher then the spoke from what i can see from what comes out so its blank in and thread embedding into the steel. so i retract teh use of the word cut and insert the word empress.
Prity cool device either way you just cut the spoke off to the lenght you need and then hey presto its perfect new spoke.
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Hi Freakshow,
That is great.
Shame it is not cheap nor easy.
The machine you have discribed costs around $2750.00USD new in the States.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
I can wait.
Have a safe trip my friend.
I will send you through some images of the shocks when they arrive.
Ji
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nah not sure its that dear
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Hi Freakshow,
The unit the bike shop uses is probably like this one or is the cheaper one I have already posted an image of (it sells for around $100.00USD.
They are the best made hand operated units around.
They press the threads into the spoke which raises the threaded area making it larger then the spoke.
There is some fragments that drop out but not from cutting.
Damn brother I was hoping there was an easy and cheap way, oh well back to hoping.
Ji
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where is that one with the wooden handle available from that you just posted?
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That spoke screw chaser is from a dealer in the States.
I will find them again and post the web site.
The commercial spoke screw chasser is attached.
Its web site is http://www.hozan.co.jp/cycle_e/catalog/new/C-701.htm
This is the $5000.00 model.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
My shocks will be the last thing on your mind when you get to BK.
Though I would like to see some pictures when you get back.
You fly out tomorrow right.
Does the company that makes forks over there have the parallel flange CZ hard chrome inner fork tubes?
Ji
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Fix this.....
(http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn458/mx250syd/gunbus-fertig-11.jpg)
;D
(http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn458/mx250syd/gunbus-design-05.jpg)
:o
http://www.leonhardtweb.de/en/gunbus/technology.htm
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Hi Freakshow,
The unit the bike shop uses is probably like this one or is the cheaper one I have already posted an image of (it sells for around $100.00USD.
They are the best made hand operated units around.
They press the threads into the spoke which raises the threaded area making it larger then the spoke.
There is some fragments that drop out but not from cutting.
Damn brother I was hoping there was an easy and cheap way, oh well back to hoping.
Ji
Nope nothing like this one, do what i said and message the man, he will tell you straight up
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Hi mx250,
I would love to work on those wheels.
What a cool project.
Changing a tyre would be a nightmare because there is virtually no rim well.
Ji
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Hi Wasp,
No problem.
Ji
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Lets get back to fixing this wheel.
Okay flip the wheel over and lift out the spacer.
Ji
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Next gently pry out the seal the same way we did on the other side.
Ji
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Now we need a handy tool for motorcycle wheels a pair of circlip pliers.
With said pliers remove circlip.
Ji
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Flip the wheel back over so we can drive the spacer out through the drum side.
We need something that can get the spacer and bearing moving which is best not held by hand. I could lathe up the tool but suggesting I did not have a lathe I will use a bolt that fits perfect. Place the hub on a lump of wood and using a rubber mallet tap the bolt head to get the spacer and bearing moving.
Ji
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To finish the job I will use a scrap length of alloy rod and my trusty rubber mallet to tap the spacer and bearing out.
Ji
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Using a 15mm collet, attach the slide hammer and pop the last bearing out.
Ji
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Bearings out.
Now we need to clean the hub and make ready for painting.
Ji
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I know I show to much detail and tell to much of the story but some members may not know all that there is to know so here I go again.
The reason I tapped the spacer and bearing out the drum side or the side that has a circlip bearing retainer is because behind that bearing is typically but not always a restricted flange.
I hope you can see the circlip grove and the restricted flange behind in the image.
Ji
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those of us that watched ABC tonight 'collectors' had on there segment asking the panel to 'guess what this is', would have seen a close-up shot of a motorcycle spoke threading machine. it was a small portable hand cranked machine, the type that rolls the thread onto the spoke ,it does not cut the thread with a die.i knew thats how its done but thats the first time ive seen one cheers wally.
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Thanks Wally,
Good to hear from you again.
That is a great show.
Do you remember that ABC show a few years back now called LOVE. It was about a dodgy antique dealer called Love and he showed us the world of antique dealing. Pretty cool as I remember.
There is a lot to the wheels that support our bikes and it is easy to take care of them if you know how.
With our old bikes you have to know quite a bit when restoring them or you will purchase the wrong gear.
Keep well
Ji
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I watched that too Wally, one of the only times I've been able to guess what the item was
And wasn't my wife impressed with my knowledge on the subject when I told her the thread would be pressed in, not cut (no she wasn't impressed at all ;D)
Good thread Ji (excuse the pun)
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Hi Mainline,
Cool.
Ji
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Okay, work done today.
The hub has now been cleaned and a solvent has been used to clean any remaining oil and dirt. The hub is left out in the sun so the solvent can dry.
A wire hanger has been installed so after painting it can be hung to dry.
Ji
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I will be using Dulux paints as they have the gold colour I like. I always use the same brand for all painting products as mixing brands can end in disaster.
First I sprayed a dust coat of Dulux etch primer. I then waited a minute or two and finished the primer coat.
I knew I was going to be painting today so the first job to get done before my first cup of tea was to purge the compressor of all water including lines and filter traps.
Ji
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After waiting two hours for the primer to dry I applied the first top coat.
This is the first time I have ever used a gold paint, I have used a chrome paint before and was very disappointed. The chrome paint went on okay and I let it dry for 2 weeks before I placed my first finger on it. Where ever I touched it the chrome dulled.
Dulux gold looks pretty similar to real gold and I think it has a copper base. Again I applied a dust coat and then finished the cover.
The paint looked slightly grainy but dried flat.
Now, will it stick to the job or will it rub off, question answered. I had a drop on my fingers when I took these images and only noticed it a little later. The camera body is chromed and the paint should have wiped off. No Way, I had to use turps and rub and rub.
That is a good thing for a metal based paint.
Ji
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All that glitters is not gold, but may be copper or paint.
Ji
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Brake backing plate.
Ji
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Some times it is easier to paint the hub while it is still spoked. This gives something to hold on to.
The spokes have to be replaced on this wheel anyway, but if they did not I have used a bearing grease in the past to coat the spokes. When the paint has dried I simply come back and remove the grease from the spokes and the over spray on them.
Ji
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This gold is something else.
I hope it will stay put as I want to use it a bit more on other parts like the kick starter.
Ji
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Just in case some members say I picked the front wheel because it is easier here is the back wheel.
No explanation just images, The processes are the same.
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Ji
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Rear wheel,
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Ji
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is that the front or the rear wheel
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"is that the front or the rear wheel"
Read the topic or first entry of this topic and reply 84.
I would have thought an expert like you would have been able to tell the difference between a front hub and a rear hub. Let me remind you a rear hub has holes in the flange to connect the rear sprocket while the front does not.
Ji
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Rear wheel
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Ji
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Before stripping out the spokes always mark which way the rim came off the hub.
Rims like Akront that are stamped are usually orientated with the stamp on the non-drum side. That does not mean that this is always the case. Check before removing the spokes, in the case of this chromed steel rim there are no stamps so I marked where the valve and rim lock holes are in comparison to the hub.
Ji
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After a good wire brushing I cleaned the surface with mineral turps and left in the sun to dry. To stop to much over spray I masking taped the spoke holes. When the rim was warm and dry I applied a coat of etch primer. Always use a face mask with this stuff.
Ji
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After waiting the prescribed hour I applied the first of the two top coats.
This should keep the rim from rusting for a while and help prevent rust or chrome flakes from puncturing the tube.
Plus it is much nicer to handle a clean painted rim than a dirty rusty one.
Ji
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I dropped off the old rear spokes to John Titman's so he can take some measurements and make me a set of new S/S 9gauge spokes.
Attached is an image of John's building.
Ji
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I picked up my new rear wheel spokes from John Titman and they look great.
Thanks John and Jason.
Ji
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I ordered my new front wheel spokes from England and had no input into their length. When they arrived I removed the old ones from the wheel and found that the new spokes were 1.5mm to long. I prefer to shorten the spokes prior to installation that way I don't have to grind down the nipple and spoke on the rim. I placed a strip of tape onto a work bench and marked the tape to indicate the length of the shortest spoke that came off the wheel. All the spokes will be resized to match.
Ji
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Welcome Back Ji Gantor. For a minute I thought you'd been shooed off by the forces of evil like many others.
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I resize the length of the spokes via a bench grinder. Place the spoke perpendicular to the grinding wheel so the end is flat. Push the spoke in and release, allow the spoke to cool, we don't want it turning blue from the heat. Constantly check length on our guide we don't want to make them to short.
Ji
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Welcome back JI , there is so much we can learn from your posts 8)
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When we have the spoke at the right length push the threaded end into a wire brush wheel to clean up and straighten the end thread.
Ji
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If we have done this right a nipple should easily spin onto the threads with our fingers. If it does not try the wire wheel again or taper the end of the spoke.
Ji
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The paint on the hub has hardened and we have our new spokes and nipples ready to go. The last thing to do prior to lacing the wheel is grease the threads. I use an anti-seize grease that stops dirt infiltration and allows the nipples to be torqued up.
Ji
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Thanks for your kind words and concern but I have been busy with work and bike riding now that the season has started. I have to make countershaft sprocket covers for my bikes and I want to manufacture them like a factory job so I have been improving my TIG welding skills for this project. When I told a few friends at the track what I was going to make I received orders for 5 Maico covers. I am starting to think I am not going to get enough time to finish my CZ before CD6.
Ji
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Schools back. Easter holidays are over.
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Lace the wheel.
Place all the right size spokes into the hub holes.
Place the rim over the hub so the stamped side lines up with the drum or the off side exactly how it came off. Feed the spokes into the correct rim holes, I like starting with the longest spokes which is the off side outer spokes. fix each spoke with a nipple.
Ji
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Only rotate each nipple one turn so there is enough movement to allow all the spokes on both sides to be laced.
Ji
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The next step is to set the rim, hub offset.
To set the offset place the wheel on a flat surface and pack the rim as required.
Ji
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We need to centre the hub in the middle of the rim. Measure the rim to the side of the hub on both sides and adjust until the hub is central. The measurement in this case is 236mm.
Ji
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With the offset and runout jigged the nipples can now be tightened until they just touch the rim. Do opposite sides so the tightened spokes can keep the shape of the offset and runout.
Ji
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It took about 30 minutes to tighten up all the nipples while maintaining the runout and offset. Remember to loosen the high side and tighten the low side. A good quality spoke spanner will ensure that the edges on the nipples don't get rounded.
Ji
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It took about 30 minutes to tighten up all the nipples while maintaining the runout and offset. Remember to loosen the high side and tighten the low side. A good quality spoke spanner will ensure that the edges on the nipples don't get rounded.
Ji
Ji,
Do you do this in the same manner,after it has been ridden as well. ???
Cheers Alison
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Hi Alison,
I was talking about the bench method that I was using as an example.
It is hard to see in the attached image but the rim should be kissing the packer when it is correct. In the image there is a gap of about 1.5mm. To lower the rim on to the packer loosen the upper nipples and tighten the lower ones this will drag the rim toward the packer.
If the rim becomes offset from the centre of the hub after a ride the best method is to leave the wheel on the bike and adjust the nipples to suit. To move the rim to the right loosen the nipples on the left and tighten the ones on the right. Do four at a time and work around the rim.
Ji
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The rear wheel is next.
The items in the attached image are all that is needed to lace a wheel.
Ji
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First place all the short spokes or the spokes on the drum side through the holes.
Ji
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Flip the hub over and fan out the spokes.
Ji
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Now place all the long spokes in.
I prefer to lace the long spokes first so that is why the hub is this orientation.
Ji
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Place the rim over the hub and lace the outer spokes first. Fix their position by the nipples.
Ji
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Now lace the inner long spokes.
Ji
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There is no need to flip the wheel over just lace the drum side outer spokes.
Ji
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Last we lace the inner drum side spokes.
Ji
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Don't forget to use an anti-seize grease on the spoke threads.
The wheel is now ready to have the runout and offset jigged and the spokes tightened.
Ji
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Front wheel first we now need to install the wheel bearings.
For those that don't have a lathe use a socket the same outside diameter as the bearing and with a rubber mallet drive her home all the way to the restricted flange.
Ji
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Install the retaining circlip.
Ji
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Install the spacer.
Ji
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Flip the wheel over and with the socket install the second wheel bearing.
Ji
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Install both seals.
Ji
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With the wheel bearings in we can now true the wheel.
Place wheel in the truing jig and check your work. If you have spent quality time working on the rim so far the truing will not take to much time. Remove any little side ways difference and tighten nipples to specification. If you are using an old rim they some times come with their own built in buckle no amount of truing can remove this.
Ji
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Dampen a rag with shellite and run around the inside of the rim to remove any grease and or dirt.
Once the shellite has dried place the rim tape or band onto the rim. I usually use electrical insulation tape and give the rim 3 to 4 layers to protect the tube from sharp edges on the spokes, nipples and the welded joint.
Ji
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Rim locks are next.
I had to drive to four bike shops to round up this lot.
I prefer the rubber foot type rather than the CNC alloy ones just in case the alloy ones have a bur that might puncture the tube.
I also like the cap nuts because they stop dirt and water reaching the threads which seizes them on.
Ji
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Unfortunately nothing is plug and play.
I find that these rim lock cap nuts will not screw all the way down so break out the tap and cut the thread a little deeper. Always use a cutting compound when cutting threads. I wrap the cap nut in 5 layers of masking tape to protect the anodizing from the vice jaws.
Ji
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Start cutting the threads with a starter tap and finish with an end tap so the thread goes as deep as possible.
The caps now screw down all the way and are ready for use. Give the rim lock threaded rod a dab with anti-seize grease before use.
Keep the masking tape on the cap nuts until the rim lock has been tightened down so the gold stays where it should be.
Ji
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With a sharp knife cut the holes through the rim tape for the tube valve and rim lock.
Ji
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Install the rim lock.
The wheel is now ready for the tyre.
Ji
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Mount the tyre onto the rim.
Set the tyre pressure to 15psi and leave over night. Check tyre pressure 24 hours later to see if you have pinched the tube.
Use a tyre pen to style the tyre and finish with tyre gloss.
There is a lot of work in a wheel and I am happy the front one is finished.
Ji
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Rear wheel.
Dig out the spacer and assess what needs to be done.
The spacer is rusty and the large wheel bearing firmly attached.
Ji
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Place the spacer in a vice and with a rubber mallet tap the spacer out of the bearing.
Ji
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To remove the rust off the spacer feed it into a bench grinder wire wheel.
Always wear eye protection during this process.
Depending on the tools you have use what you got.
Linish the spacer if you have a lathe, bead blast it or hand sand it with wet and dry sand paper.
Ji
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To prevent the spacer from rusting again I give them a coat of paint.
Clean the spacer with mineral turps and let dry in the sun, then apply a coat of etch primer.
Ji
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Find an appropriate socket or if you have a lathe turn up an alloy drift.
With the use of our trusty rubber mallet send the new bearing home.
Ji
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Replace the retaining circlip.
Ji
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After waiting an hour for the primer to dry apply a layer of top coat.
Ji
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Once the paint has dried install the spacer into the wheel.
Ji
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With rubber mallet and drift in hand install the new wheel bearing.
Ji
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To support the wheel while installing the wheel bearing a cradle is a handy thing to assemble.
Ji
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Install the seals on both sides.
Ji
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Place wheel into the truing jig and tighten the nipples as required.
Ji
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Clean the rim with shellite to remove grease and run the rim tape.
Ji
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Cut the rim lock and tube valve stem holes and install the rim lock.
Ji
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Mount the tyre.
Style with a tyre pen and give your new boots a spray with the tyre gloss.
Job done !
Two assembled wheels.
Ji
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Rear wheel before.
Ji
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Rear wheel before drum side.
Ji
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With the rear tyre on we can now check to see if it complies with rule
18.5.0.6
a) ii) Pre-1965, Pre-1970, Pre-1975- 5" (127mm).
Yep it looks pretty good to me I hope the scrutineers use the same tape measure.
Ji
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To attach the new alloy sprocket to the hub there is a dilemma.
The old hardware is rusty and the edges on the hex have been rounded. I want to replace them with new S/S Allen Key socket head screws. The problem is that the old bolt has an M8 thread but steps up to 9mm where it locates in the hub and sprocket. The hex across the points is 13.4mm and can not be any larger or it will foul on the brake flange.
One solution is to purchase an alloy tube from Bunnings and some M8 hardware.
If you have access to a lathe turn down the tube to 9mm OD and tap an M8 thread inside your new sleeve.
Ji
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Place a length of alloy tube into the lathe.
Set the measurement and turn it down to the required diameter, in this case 9mm OD.
Ji
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Next secure an M8 tap in the drill chuck and feed it into the tube.
Ji
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Place the parting off tool in the tool post and part the length that is required.
Always use coolant when parting.
Ji
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Clean up the burs on the ends.
Ji
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All that is now required is a test fit.
Perfect.
The threads should help transfer the load through the sprocket to the hub.
Only 5 more to go.
Ji
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I like working on my lathe.
That was fun, and everything went well.
6 new S/S sprocket bolts ready for action.
Job done.
Ji
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nice solution to the bolt problem, I might have to go and buy a lathe now that I've seen that.
just wondering if you've had any issues with the nyloc nuts in the past ie. coming loose when they get hot?
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Hi mainline,
Very good add to my topic.
Yes I have.
My next add to this was to Locktite the nylocks on and use a new S/S spring washer.
Ji
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Sorry to see these pics gone.
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Now that you mention it, I think Ji has gone - I haven't seen his post/pictorials for yonks :o.
Okay who pissed off Ji >:(.
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The usual culprits....i enjoyed his stuff.
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Yeah, that's a real shame :-\. Not much of a thread without pictures ::). We know you're out there Ji ;) - how about putting the pictures back for those of us that appreciate this stuff - I'm sure we outnumber the people that pissed you off ;). Then there is the silent majority that just sits back and reads.
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Ask the big G (owner of this forum) what has happened to the images.
I have been far to busy to even think about removing images.
Ji
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Well done Ji - we all get busy from time to time.
Welcome back mate ;).