OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Hoony on September 15, 2007, 08:34:14 am
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Ok Guys, i am soon to rebuild a set of wheels, anyone used a good quality black paint for the hubs that they can recommend ?
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Powder coating if you need colour, with blank hubs we water blast or bead blast them and then use a twopac clear lacker. They will lock good for a long time.
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i use vht paint its hi temp i use sp-139 gm satin black then bake it in the oven looks great
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Thanks guys, i appreciate your input!
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I use PJ1 satin black case paint baked in the oven at 110 celcius for about an hour and it looks good
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Cyclegod yes it looks smick, how does it hold up to mud and crud? when you say oven i am assumming the oven at home right? i will have to plan that one when the missus Hoony is out.
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Before I ride in the dirt I give the hubs a light spritz of CRC (an old trick ;)) and yes just the usual home oven, not fan forced or anything fancy. I did my clutch cover and top end in there too ;D
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Do you bake it straight after its painted? or do you let it sit for awhile. What does the baking do to it?My missus is used to the cases going into the oven every now and then to get bearings in or out, but its the gearbox oil that pools at the bottom that gives the roasts an interesting flavour... ;D
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The paint takes about 20min to dry/"flash off" , this is when the aromatic chemicals evaporate from the painted surface, thats when to stick it in the oven. As much as possible do not touch the painted surfaces until the hub has cooled from its time in the oven, the baking accelerates the hardening process only. I have found that putting stuff through the oven gives a better sheen to the finished unit.
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Hey Cyclegod,
So.. does baking help after the paint is untouched and say a month old ???
I used supercheap 2 for $5 cans. Seems OK so far - I'll take some photos and post them. Time will be the test of course and I am quite prepared for a disaster. I came to this conclusion after reading the last forum where some of the guys said they used the cheaper stuff and it seemed OK. For me $14 (or so) a can is a bit too much when you've got small children, mortgage etc etc. Worth a try :-\.
One of the tips on the old forum was to put the spray can in quite warm water for 10 minutes before spraying your piece. Works an absolute treat. But you probably already knew that so I'll shut up now ::).
Cheers
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heat the contents before using eh mmm I never knew that one, does that inprove the finnish?
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I've always believed that applying heat to anything under pressure containing flammable hydro-carbons was a bad idea but if you want to try it go ahead. Just remember its 000 not 911 ;D
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Nah, it's all good. Don't have it boiling hot or anything, you don't want to raise the pressure in the can too much, just enough to warm the can a little. Certainly don't apply a flame to the can :o :o. Dry the can when you take it out of the water too otherwise when you shake the can guess where the drops go >:( usually only after you are almost finished >:( >:(. Murphy's law is bound to strike. I swear it goes on soooo smoothly when warmed a little. Don't take my word for it - give it a go ;) - what have you got to lose. I'll take some photos tonight of my supercheap painted hubs and post 'em tomorrow.
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YZ250 your correct about warming up spray cans. I always do it, and have been doing that for along time. It helps get a smooth even finish, more consistant spraying, in fact I heat up the item I'm painting too, esspecially if I'm using VHT case paint. I find that if I heat the item(only hot enough that ya can still hold it in your hands) I dont get flashing(uneven drying/curing). With VHT Case paint I dont bake it. But this is only personnel perferance, as I like a more low sheen/satin than a satin/semi-gloss finish.
In the case of heating up cans, just fill the sink with hot water (55C) and put the can in for about 10-15mins. I will sometimes use two cans if I'm painting bigger stuff and that way I always have a warm can ready to go (I alternate them in the warm water)
This is a picture of a motor I sprayed with VHT case paint without baking but I warmed the cans up first.
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/DSC02911.jpg)
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This picture? ??? wha picture?? who where?
My experience, the cheap paint is pretty good (I use it 'all' the time) it does chip and scratch pretty easy and sometimes fuel or chainlube solvents will remove it much to your utter dismay but, for the positives, it does touch up really well, flattens and flashes off pretty fast (the advantages of living in Sunny QLD) and lastly..it's cheap! For a full on resto? NO (it is a little tacky even though it can look wonderful and I would probably use it) for a clean snappy lookin' ride bike? YES!
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(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa49/tbarsby/backingplatereduced.jpg)
Looks Ok, but time will tell the story I think. I may get sick of touching up things and it may become false economy. That's why I was asking about the baking - maybe that will improve performance ???.
A couple of replated bits in there too, but that's another thread !!
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Looks nice mate
I use ..... Septone Brake caliper paint
Bake it in the sun for a week and ..Voila
Watch your brands as some blacks do have a colour hue
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Keeping it inexpensive with good quality, try using DUPLI-COLOR "Wheel Paint". Its a very durable Polyurethane, high temp rattle can paint i've had great and long lasting success with.
Thats my tip for the day!...EJ
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Hello guys
Heating the paint in warm water helps the paint to mist when being applied from the nozzel giving it a better surface it aslo activates the paint as mentioned helping it to dry
you should never paint on cold days or straight from a cold can as most times the paint will matt of and give a totaly lustre less finish
with baking in an oven always try not to use a gas oven not a real good idea with a thinning agent in the paint preferably an eletric oven on high temp for ten minutes then put the painted unit in turn the oven off and let it cool with the painted unit in this allows the heat to penetrate the painted surface and cool of its own acord
giving a harder finish and a good lustre
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Since I started to use etch primer in a can prior to painting I've had a tougher/more durable end result. Then just satin black engine black paint.Seems to adhere a lot better with the etch primer undercoat.
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For MTBW I use VHT - Brake Drum, Caliper and Rotor Satin black as I prefer the Satin finish. It is good for 490 deg C 900 deg F (more than enough) and is better than the engine paint in that it is also chemical and chip resistance. I use a good etch primer to give a base coat and have done 3 bikes with this now and find the finish awesome. I just use a Auto One Etch primer - nothing expensive but the VHT paint goes forever - my RM 250 Z motor came up as new.
I mean if you are going to the effort of doing a set of hubs before lacing or a motor before reassembly then make it as good as you can - I pay about $14 for the VHT paint and haven't been disappointed yet.
cheers
Rossco
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Now I'm not being argumentative but this I'll say about the cheap paint.
I've done hubs many times using the cheap brand and they look exactly the same as factory. I've been using and testing this paint on many differing applications over the past 4 or 5 years and this is what I have found.
The finish from the can is as good as you'll get.
Coverage is not so great using the lighter colours.
The silver is crap.
The gloss black is not so great as it chips far more easilly than the satin or matt finishes.
The matt black is okay in a pinch as a mere brisk wipe will give it the same lustre as satin. Satin in turn easily polishes into gloss which is really handy for touch up's.
All the colours fade/weather badly if left in the elements. So painting the bike trailer with the stuff is a waste of time.
If you paint fuel tanks frames or covers then use gloss over or it won't last and it won't look bling.
The clear coat works/flattens well and when used over gloss or satin finish looks great and the surface is made more scratch resistant also.
I'd love to go and buy the best of the best but my budget doesn't allow. If it did then I'd be out buying PJ-1 and VHT and the likes too. With the results I've had using budget paints I couldn't ask for more. I reckon it all comes back to the prep and the curing time ;) Here's the little TS75 donk I painted this morning using 'matt' black. They had run out of satin so me being impatient chose matt but as you can see the result isn't too bad for $3..$4 if you add in the sheet of sandpaper ::)
(http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/1723/tm75yj1.th.jpg) (http://img120.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tm75yj1.jpg)
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How much is VHT case paint (satin black) in a spray can worth over in Oz? Here, a can is about $12 and I can basically spray a motor with 1 can. I consider a $12 paint job pretty fair money, but thats just my take on it.
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Nah, it's all good. Don't have it boiling hot or anything, you don't want to raise the pressure in the can too much, just enough to warm the can a little. Certainly don't apply a flame to the can :o :o. Dry the can when you take it out of the water too otherwise when you shake the can guess where the drops go >:( usually only after you are almost finished >:( >:(. Murphy's law is bound to strike. I swear it goes on soooo smoothly when warmed a little. Don't take my word for it - give it a go ;) - what have you got to lose. I'll take some photos tonight of my supercheap painted hubs and post 'em tomorrow.
Tried it ,and works a treat!!!!