OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Kawasaki => Topic started by: Mick D on October 25, 2015, 10:32:53 am
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Mine is the oil injected compliance plated model. I want to run pre-mix instead of removing the tank and seat every ride to top up the oil tank ::)
I have never had one of these apart,,,,yet ::)
Will both mains still get lubed or would I have to split it and remove a bearing shield like in say the ER-185?
Thanks if anyone can help :)
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Remove the seat. Autolube is gold.
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Fair to conclude that you don't know?
You are the one person who I thought would.
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Considering the autolube feeds into the side of the barrel and the crank and cases are "normal" (no slingers or anything), I figure it's a safe assumption that it can be removed simply.
I still think it's a bad idea.
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I was having a chuckle about this yesterday when someone wanted a side stand welded on their bike.
It was only a few weeks back when someone else wanted a stand removed from their bike.
I often get requests from guys that have vintage bikes with down pipes and they want up pipes built for them.
I also get a lot of requests from guys that have more modern bikes with up pipes and they want down pipes built for them (dirt trackers)
And I remember doing a KDX search some time back and their were some requests on a US forum asking how to convert their bike to oil injection.
What was that old saying about the grass being greener? ;D
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I don't know, but it sounds like you would. Some times I cant help thinking that you guys weren't listening when Yul Brynner spoke his final words ::)
I guess some love bling on old motocrossers while some new owners cant wait to remove it too.
Horses for courses, I reservedly trust the injection system on the outboard that has pushed me to the shelf and back. Though I only figure the odds reasonable when the reservoir is full and if the engine hasn't seized by the time I have rang its neck all the way to the heads first. Just the way I think. I have never liked walking and engine rebuilds are exy and time consuming.
I would feel a lot safer to head across the Simpson with fresh points ignition than 30 year old CDI too.
I decided to go with Nathans opinion anyhow. Was about to rego it and bush bash it. I bought a 35mm PWK, pipe and muffler to spark things up a bit, not that it really needs it, but,,,,you know(searching for justification ::) ) and I don't suppose it needs the auto-lube removed to fit them, does it... ? ..
Anyhow, started to have a change of mind, think I may sell it instead. Procrastinating now. I haven't used it since 2014 Gloucester Vinduro.
(http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t512/oz555ktm/DSCF1562_zps9fc385ea.jpg)
(http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t512/oz555ktm/DSCF1614_zpsd3f32947.jpg)
Too many bikes and the only event it is welcome at is Cookardinia. It is such an easy fun bike to ride, but it seems like such a shame to bush bash its excellent original condition when I have other choices to do that to.
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I haven't come across a bike that can't be improved but it shits me to tears when the dyer need is a such critical system.
Especially when away from civilization. What a total piece of crap design >:(
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Im a bit partial to the KDX200. nice little bikes for green things. was a very very pretty one with a for sale sign at CD that made my loins quiver. i almost went over to see how much .. ten times.
As to autolube Im a fan. no mixing no mixing up containers that you dont know whats in them. no rejetting for premix.. Yerp oil in the fuel means less fuel per litre of premix. Dont suppose it would be easier to mount a tank remotely or even a filler some place easier to get to like behind the headlight?
The TS system is pretty good , thats why You never see a bottom end that needs a rebuild in a CCI model suzuki.
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Yes, I agree that the Suzuki CCI is a good system Pockey, though my conclusion is that 2 stroke oil injection systems are best left to road bikes only. We had a CCI failure on this bike below at the October 2014 Gloucester Vinduro.
(http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t512/oz555ktm/DSCF1514_zps79571d5d.jpg)
I bought that bike above from a one owner old guy with only 3,200 K's on it. Lent it to Luke R for that weekend.
When he came back in, there was oil everywhere. We beleive this bike had never been apart, but yet the plastic "hose tail" had broken off the oil tank. It was still stuck in the oil pump feed hose entry. Needles to say the tank had discharged its load. End of that bike for the weekend. Maybe just old and brittle? who knows? There would have been no break down and no end of riding if it were set up correctly for pre-mix .
My first registered bike was a Suzuki T250 Hustler with the CCI oiling system. A very underrated motorcycle.
Then a T500 Titan. I reckon the T250 was much greater fun.
You could just look down at the oil tank sight glass, 100% visual witness. Even while sitting on the bike.
You could simply reach down unscrew the large cap and see that the level was going down every time it was ridden.
But to check the level with this Kawasaki crap design, you physically have to unbolt the seat because the oil tank is hidden under the Fuel Tank.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/666_zpsurmdx1bc.jpg~original)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/566_zpsajhhj7be.jpg~original)
The tank is bolted to the right side of the frame backbone. You cant even see the oil tank while the bike is in one piece.
Even the tank to pump delivery line is black FFS. If it were clear at least you could see oil.
I haven't even got started with this saga yet.
What an ill-thought out system. Crapulently executed conception.
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Physically unbolt and remove the seat everytime to see how much 2T oil is left?
And somehow there are those who think its a system to be admired? Bullshit! I am guessing some minds are just easily impressed ::) ;) :)
This bike shouldn't have failed the way it has.
From the original old owner, for putt, putt, putting around his property.
Original tyres. Original riveted chain and sprockets, which have little to no wear.
Disc's aren't worn. Still has original pads, with plenty left.
foot pegs aren't worn.
I have no doubt that this is original K's
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160717_170643_zps1btmyig3.jpg~original)
This bike should not have failed the way it has with such low use.
Anyhow, got shit to do now, picking up the greatest bargain of my entire life tomorrow ;D ;D
Back latter to show you the most crapulent failing 2T oil system in the world, a bit latter.
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Serious? take the seat off with spanners just to top up the oil tank? atleast suzuki had a clip and hinge on the seat. ... maybe thats a modification that could be implimented?
for some odd reason a vague recollection of a damn old english bike came in to my mind that also had a design flaw in accessing a basic service item but Im dammed if I can remember what it was. Lets hope kwaka dont design cars or we will be popping the boot and removing he spare wheel to fill up.
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I had wondered about using the radiator overflow bottle as a 2T oil reservoir.
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I will keep and use this bike until I have a Maico reed valve 250 or 400 magnum built, finished and regoed. I reckon their both far superior bikes in every way.
I had wondered about using the radiator overflow bottle as a 2T oil reservoir.
First thing I thought of Nathan and would have to do that if I were to mount a "E" model plastic tank.
I would like to put a E model tank on it to preserve the original metal tank etc, for when I pass it on.
But in the mean time I will be removing the entire system because there is a pump design failure and that is the main reason that I am more than disappointed.
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Suzuki AC100 had a a nice small oil bottle. Same part was used as part of the TS/TM 'race kit'
The TS oil tank outlet breaking would have been a one off freak accident i reckon or the plastic take had been left out in the hot sun for years?. I have seen some suspect dry/crusty looking ones on ebay USA in the desert areas. I have never heard of it happening, its certainly not common and not something that would have me questioning the reliability of the system.
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Serious? take the seat off with spanners just to top up the oil tank? atleast suzuki had a clip and hinge on the seat. ... maybe thats a modification that could be implimented?
Yes, True Pockey, un-bolt and remove ::)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/hjj_zps98losnjf.jpg~original)
I cannot go on a ride, nor drop it from mind unless I check the level first on any oil injected 2T.
I check my car at least once a week and everytime before I leave City Limits.
A recognition of any fluids loss is detrimental to identifying system failure before it strands you.
I love the mighty TS's.
My first real bike.
My reason at the time for removing the complete CCI system from it, including all brackets was purely to remove all excess baggage.
Nothing and no one beat that little TS125 through the scrub :D :) Nothing and no one.
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I'm with you a bit mickD , sorry for the high jack rant on bad designs I brought my first modern bike 12 mths back and I'm disgusted with some of the stupid designs ??? Made on purpose so it don't last and work so you spend more money at your local bike spare parts dealer .
Ktm 530 2011 great power but had to tow start it with my 1976 tt500 every time I wanted to ride it at Louie bike park nsw , I should send the towing photo to ktm head quarters a 40 year bike towing a 2011 bike .
I won't get into the list of bad designs :o
After goggleing starting issues with ktms I
Near Cryed with all the dramas on diffrent forums .
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I'm with you a bit mickD , sorry for the high jack rant on bad designs I brought my first modern bike 12 mths back and I'm disgusted with some of the stupid designs ??? Made on purpose so it don't last and work so you spend more money at your local bike spare parts dealer .
Ktm 530 2011 great power but had to tow start it with my 1976 tt500 every time I wanted to ride it at Louie bike park nsw , I should send the towing photo to ktm head quarters a 40 year bike towing a 2011 bike .
I won't get into the list of bad designs :o
After goggleing starting issues with ktms I
Near Cryed with all the dramas on diffrent forums .
You certainly are one, whose mind isn't confined by a square Mick.
I believe nearly all and most things have room for improvement(evolution).
Beauty of hindsight too.
There is also a lot to like about these little bikes too :), so it will fill the void for a while.
I will endeavor to display a few of its design failings though.
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Suzuki AC100 had a a nice small oil bottle. Same part was used as part of the TS/TM 'race kit'
The TS oil tank outlet breaking would have been a one off freak accident i reckon or the plastic take had been left out in the hot sun for years?. I have seen some suspect dry/crusty looking ones on ebay USA in the desert areas. I have never heard of it happening, its certainly not common and not something that would have me questioning the reliability of the system.
I certainly agree it is not common, but was a failure witnessed by many.
In comparison the T250 and T500 titan tanks were metal and had metal hose tails.
As I said the bike only had 3,200 klm's when purchased and only 4,000klm's when Luke road it in that event.
It is a carryover model, 1993 on compliance plate to be exact.
No it was never ravaged by UV in its life.
Never been apart.
What I think happened?
It had a horrible vibration in it when purchased(engine mounts were loose ::)
I guess I should of cleaned every thread on the bike and applied loctite.
But I already have enough shit to do ::)
Because what had actually happened Leith, is that the entire oil tank had unknowingly come loose.
We didn't notice it was loose when filled with oil before that event!
Maybe it jumping around loose somehow broke off the hose tail, Good enough reason as anything maybe?
All I know, that if I live long enough and ever get my shit together? it will be cleaned and hung up on the wall of fame, or something.
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I have a bad habit of changing something that could work better in work or play , just me .
I see some better designs on older bikes than moderns , I say they designed things to work and last longer in the early days ;)
Must be fustrasting for these bike designers when the big boss taps him or her :P on the shoulder and says don't you make that part to work well or last :-\
Sorry for the rant someone had to here it ;D
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Kwaka still seem like they build a bike then add all the covers and bits later on. my KLR650 first needs the sidecovers removed then the seat to get to most things and then the fairings and tank for anything like removing a spark plug. Thank DOG for iridium.
For a nice lightweight and small oil tank, whipper snipper fuel tanks breed by the thousand at your local tip shop.
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I have a bad habit of changing something that could work better in work or play , just me .
I see some better designs on older bikes than moderns , I say they designed things to work and last longer in the early days ;)
Must be fustrasting for these bike designers when the big boss taps him or her :P on the shoulder and says don't you make that part to work well or last :-\
Sorry for the rant someone had to here it ;D
Well sadly Mick, that is another grievance I have with this bike,
Trying to shop local for parts & supplies or just trying to get things quicker ;D ;D
Although there are some who will never get my bucks again, but the people at Newcastle Kawasaki certainly have my vote, best ever people to deal with. I would like to buy a new KLR Adventure of them?
One thing I am sick of though with the very popular cult folowing of KDX is, Sorry PART NO LONGER AVAILABLE
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Serious? take the seat off with spanners just to top up the oil tank? atleast suzuki had a clip and hinge on the seat. ... maybe thats a modification that could be implimented?
for some odd reason a vague recollection of a damn old english bike came in to my mind that also had a design flaw in accessing a basic service item but Im dammed if I can remember what it was.
Are you thinking of the Triumph Tiger Cub ?
To change the Gearbox Sprocket involved removing engine & splitting the engine cases !
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OK, one of the main fluck up problems, is that the two stroke oil is disappearing from its tank. >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
When we bought the bike and prepped it for the first time.
We removed the tank and seat like always of course, looking for problems, wiring chafe etc, etc. etc.
Well what do you know? look its got an oil tank, and Ooooh an oil pump too 8)
Good thing we checked hey, cause look the %$@*&& thing is empty, BONE DRY no problem we'll just fill it up. Good save hey :)
Then upon start up heaps of smoke, maybe its just been sitting? It'll clear up, we have to be there tomorrow ::) least it shouldn't seize ::) ::) Smoked cleared up, had a great weekend 8)
89 Bike isn't welcome in welcome in pre90 Vinduro anymore, cause some don't like the look of rear discs in an event that no could care less about ::)
So bike hasn't been used till now. Prepping for rego, discovered oil tank is empty again, WTF.
Geez lucky I stopped when I did at Gloucester in 2014, probably nearly seized it,,,feeew, lucky hey.
Filled the oil tank a few weeks ago, up to the brim 8)
Well, next discovery last week is that has lost 10mm in 10 days WTF?
Well starts it up this time anyhow, ran poorly again at first.
More smoke than the old BHP blast furnaces. Finally clears and starts to run well after 15-20mins.
Nothing to worry about, it has a "low-oil" an idiot light on the dash you say?
Well next realization is that every single light globe in the bike has blown the filament of its mounting prongs.
I can tell you the only thing that causes globes to blow in such a way is a current surge.
Anyhow, lots of smoke after stored.
Oil missing from tank,
No leaks under bike.
Gear case oil level constant. Smoke clears up, so its not the RH crank/to tranny seal.
Obviously oil is siphoning straight through pump into Crank case.
I don't give a shit whether its supposed to do it or not, at this amount of use?
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160717_170643_zps1btmyig3.jpg~original)
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We can safely assume from this thread you are not a fan of Kawasaki 2T oil injection systems then :o
;D
The blown globes? Does the bike have a battery if so it can not be removed unless you install a largish capacity in its place to stabalise the regulator.
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So anyhow, I start testing the electrics to track down cause of surge.
What no capacitor on alternator feed to smooth out current spikes, how disgustingly cheap MR KAWASAKI >:(
Considering the amount of unnecessary crap you did add. Dick heads.
Checked ceramic resistor on Alternator feed back to earth, 5.8 ohms. I reckon that's probably about the only thing that's not $%%$#@@$
Diode check on Rectifier/Reg, yeap she's %^^%$#@#$
Sorry, no longer available. Could wire in any one I suppose. But I found the OEM one freshly listed on ebay that night.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160710_134015_zpscqwglogt.jpg~original)
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We can safely assume from this thread you are not a fan of Kawasaki 2T oil injection systems then :o
;D
Mate, you haven't heard the half of it yet ::) ::) ::)
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So OK, time to test the stator resistance ::) ::) ::)
Unplug the harness connector. Check it whilst still hot. check it again cold, different hey.
Ummmmmh, so whats all that black oil shit ooozing out of the stator wiring loom gland/ grommet seal?
Better investigate hey?
Takes Stator cover off
WTF
Half cup of BLACK oil gusses out.
Lets see if you can guess what that is boys,
No come on, why do you think there would be a more than half a cup of BLACK OOZE in there?
Any guesses?
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The dregs of your morning coffee brew :P
The remains of the Japanese guy that set the timing at the factory :o
The content of the 2T oil tank that keeps emptying by itself ???
Possibly a crank seal gone ;)
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We can safely assume from this thread you are not a fan of Kawasaki 2T oil injection systems then :o
;D
The blown globes? Does the bike have a battery if so it can not be removed unless you install a largish capacity in its place to stabalise the regulator.
Arrh you've added an edit.
No these bikes do not have a battery. They only have a ceramic resistor in attempt to calm out the current.
That's what I have said above, needs capacitor. Kawasaki cheaped out. Poor cheap design, what a failing. This bike is one hundred percent original and intact, not for much longer though >:( >:( >:(
As soon as the REctifier/REg blows, so does every globe in sight!
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Well actually a regulator will really struggle to do its job without a reference voltage which is usually provided by the battery but can be provided by a capacitor which stores a reference voltage to stablise the reg. The resistor I agree is a very cheap way of ensuring the reg always supplies a load (therefore current) to at least, well in theory, prevent the output voltage climbing excessively.
Current surges do not just happen they are a result not a cause of problems. Any load draws a current. The globes actually blow due to excessive voltage not current.
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The dregs of your morning coffee brew :P
The remains of the Japanese guy that set the timing at the factory :o
The content of the 2T oil tank that keeps emptying by itself ???
Possibly a crank seal gone ;)
Yes, all of the above ;D
No, I reckon it started as 2T oil once.
Yes siphoned through the pump whilst laid up, straight into the crank cases.
I will add there is absolutely no Radial or transverse wear or play in crank bearings.
So Maybe there was a built up of crank case pressure while it was running trying to clear. Given it takes along time to clear itself.
Maybe that helped fail the LH ignition/Crank seal Prematurely?
But I really think that this problem started long ago in this bike.
I washed the cover out ready to knock up a gasket.
Went to blow out ::) ::) :o
Instantly got covered in black oooze fleckles ;D ;D ;D ;D ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
bArrrh,,,, so I notice its got some sort of a tin shield inside the cover and that the black shit had sprayed out from behind it(when I hit it with the air).
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/6c23600d846d4a4282ab5f6df093541a_zps2ffks3tj.png~original)
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No I beg to differ on that one.
I have seen a lot of globes blow from high voltage, they break the filament.
Only a current surge blows the filament clean of both post mounts in every globe, with out exception.
That feed circuit to all the globes surged the moment the Rect/reg which is connected to the same circuit and back to earth failed and open circuited. Thereby allowing the full unrectified and unregulated now AC output of the Alternator to surge straight through every globe that was closed circut.
There are two highly accredited light aircraft constructors who agree with me too, but more on that later if you like.
But yes add that to yet another piss pooor cheaped out Kawasaki inadequate design by not having a capacitor in the system to smooth out the spikes.
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So, behind that tin plate mounted on the inside of the stator cover there is another part!
A lining of what may have been some sort of rubbery material to start with?
That the 2T oil has decomposed?
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160709_203017_001_zpszazjbfvk.jpg~original)
So no, that wont be going back in ::)
I wonder why it was there in the first place?
As a acoustic barrier to help achieve a desired DB rating?
To comply as the international registrable SR model ?
Sad thing is all acoustic insulators also have a value as thermal insulators, keeping heat in a place where you most want to get rid of it. Better ways to do this Mr Kawasaki.
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So this is what is left of the stator that measures differently when hot as opposed to its cold measurement
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160717_170122_zps3ekfjixg.jpg~original)
This isn't a cheap bike anymore ???
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All the F models have that black greasy shit under the ignition cover. It's always foul - like moly grease mixed with old sump oil.
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I wonder if all the knockers of your XR500 will change their minds now MickD ??? ::)
With regards to your regulator/rectifier system, there are "battery eliminators" on ebay. They can only be a capacitor so maybe that could be a cheap fix for the electrical woes caused by the even cheaper resistor.
I'm also with you on removing the oil injection.....It's only something else that can, and obviously does, go wrong. There's nothing hard about carrying around a small (100ml) plastic bottle filled with some 2t oil wrapped in a plastic bag stashed in your back pack. (I assume you take water and tools with you on trail rides 'cos you don't strike me as a silly bugger)
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I'm not gonna change my mind on XR500s, but I'm gonna offer Mick $100 for his KDX... :D
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So anyhow, I start testing the electrics to track down cause of surge.
What no capacitor on alternator feed to smooth out current spikes, how disgustingly cheap MR KAWASAKI >:(
Considering the amount of unnecessary crap you did add. Dick heads.
Checked ceramic resistor on Alternator feed back to earth, 5.8 ohms. I reckon that's probably about the only thing that's not $%%$#@@$
Diode check on Rectifier/Reg, yeap she's %^^%$#@#$
Sorry, no longer available. Could wire in any one I suppose. But I found the OEM one freshly listed on ebay that night.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160710_134015_zpscqwglogt.jpg~original)
Any 2 phase rec/reg will work $8 pit bike ebay specials work a charm. Capacitor can't work on AC only DC which has to on the output side of the rec/reg. CR250's and some XR's have a rec/reg and cap already usually $30 on ebay USA or $6 from Jaycar for a 2200uf capacitor
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No I beg to differ on that one.
I have seen a lot of globes blow from high voltage, they break the filament.
Only a current surge blows the filament clean of both post mounts in every globe, with out exception.
That feed circuit to all the globes surged the moment the Rect/reg which is connected to the same circuit and back to earth failed and open circuited . Thereby allowing the full unrectified and unregulated now AC output of the Alternator to surge straight through every globe that was closed circut.
There are two highly accredited light aircraft constructors who agree with me too, but more on that later if you like.
But yes add that to yet another piss pooor cheaped out Kawasaki inadequate design by not having a capacitor in the system to smooth out the spikes.
Electrical Engineer Mick - maybe a quick read of basic AC theory would help. Anyway have it your own way the imaginary demon of a current surge. Possibly consider
I(current) = E (voltage RMS for an AC circuit) / (Z(R for resistance in this case) x Cos 'Phi")(in this case a value of 1 as it is a resistor circuit).
The variable that changes in an uncontrolled manor once the reg fails is the voltage which changes in both magnitude and frequency and is the root cause of the problem. Yes it results in a high current flow that has also, naturally, becomes an AC current in phase with the voltage but this is a consequence of the voltage problem not a cause.
Any electrical component such as a globe or any connection for that matter when exposed to rapid voltage transients as experienced when AC (remember that the AC frequency of a magneto is directly related to RPM) is supplied to a circuit designed for DC even if crude DC are severely stressed. They invariably fail at a high stress point such as at a connection (post in a globe) as the voltage peaks and transients far exceed design. High current tends to over heat the component causing breakdown of the material not a clean fracture.
The funny flip side to this is that DC currents are much harder to switch than AC current.
Having said all that I am sure you are right that current surges just happen spontaneously, much the same as spontaneous human combustion. Anyway I am not really interested in debating it further but feel free to rebuke my points.
I will give you $200 for the KDX which is double that offered by Nathan. It is obviously a POS all round anyway so maybe I can use it as an example of Japanese folly
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Thanks guys, I do appreciate the knowledge etc. It will be a good fun thing with a bit more work.
Talking about learning etc. Just got back from Sydney with this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bench-Lathe-Hafco-AL-320G-/162132675013?hash=item25bfdc49c5%3Ag%3AwQIAAOSw0kNXgwdX&nma=true&si=UDIvFsEhKl4qSp7%252BYq2R4gBGTWM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Bench-Lathe-Hafco-AL-320G-/162132675013?hash=item25bfdc49c5%3Ag%3AwQIAAOSw0kNXgwdX&nma=true&si=UDIvFsEhKl4qSp7%252BYq2R4gBGTWM%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557)
I didn't think too many could teach me much more about machining, but this old retiring, going into a unit bloke sure did :)
What a great moment in my life meeting him.
Then he turned around and gave me thousands of dollars worth of new condition tools, books etc, etc.
What a day, it could be only more perfect if I could take the KDX for a squirt,,,soon Grasshoper soon :)
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I wonder if all the knockers of your XR500 will change their minds now MickD ??? ::)
With regards to your regulator/rectifier system, there are "battery eliminators" on ebay. They can only be a capacitor so maybe that could be a cheap fix for the electrical woes caused by the even cheaper resistor.
I'm also with you on removing the oil injection.....It's only something else that can, and obviously does, go wrong. There's nothing hard about carrying around a small (100ml) plastic bottle filled with some 2t oil wrapped in a plastic bag stashed in your back pack. (I assume you take water and tools with you on trail rides 'cos you don't strike me as a silly bugger)
Yes, on all accounts Mark ;D :)
Ironic that the XRs have a capacitor as standard and the new layout will basically be a transplant of the Honda schematic to bring to the KDX up to spec with what it should off had to start with.
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mate bought one of them kwakas for his son to learn to ride. I got to take it out for a spin with the boyz. it got me up every hill first time. and I had a crack at the "too steep for us" hills and conquered two out of three. men were not happy. ktm 450 / husaberg 450 and a kato 525 and a 300 twoi. the 200 put em to shame. ....and it was a dog...needed serious exhaust and jetting work to get some real hp out. but just flog the crap out of it and tap dance on the stirring stick and it went places. great little 200 twoi
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Well you'll have to dig deeper boys, received another bid via PM.
We are up to $210 now :)
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clamp the oil hoses and run 40 to 1...use that castor blend, it smells great.
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So this is all you have to do to replace an ignition crank seal.
Only dismantle the entire bike, and then an entire engine rebuild /overhaul.
They should have bombed the joint to abblitoration.
Narrh glad they didn't. There would be no XRs then.
I should have taken the $210. Expensive reef awnament.
No need to wunder why they don't make them any more.
POS design.
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(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_154755_zpsbtfrr7ma.jpg)
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So this is all you have to do to replace an ignition crank seal.
Only dismantle the entire bike, and then an entire engine rebuild /overhaul.
They should have bombed the joint to abblitoration.
Narrh glad they didn't. There would be no XRs then.
I should have taken the $210. Expensive reef ornament.
No need to wunder why they don't make them any more ;D
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might as well service the swing arm bearings mick, only 1 more bolt ;D ;D
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Your a funny rock hugger, aren't ya ;D ;D ;
You wait till I get home ;D ;D
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$220.
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$220.
To much ;D
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Yeah, yeah, thats funnier than it should be ::) ;D
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Obviously I think there are some really cool good points/ advantages about these things too.
Or I wouldn't still have it, nor would I have bought a second one ::) 89E ::)
Easy to ride. I laid them over on the grass yesterday and I can lift them back up with one arm, I will be going in for surgery if I try that with the big XR.
Easy to start, great midrange and top end, but so gutless below the Midrange.
Shouldn't be too hard to get some extra bottom end happening I suppose and now's my chance while their in bits.
Enjoy working on bikes and still looking forward to the tthrill.
As saying, Easy to start, easy to ride and lift back up, and still sort of vintage dirt bike too 8)
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So let's get this straight the XR is hard to start, heavy as all f#$k and you can not pick it up but is better because the globes don't blow ??? :o
$250 take it or leave it ;D
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check the powervalve rack mick, they are a shocker for the pv's sticking then the next time they get opened up the rack strips the gears cos the valves are gummed up. can turn them into a peaky buzz box. but don't forget its only a 200......
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Thanks mate, I really appreciate any input, help and guidance.
Yes, I am am expecting the worse. You can see from these pics just how much this engine is awash with 2T oil that has freely siphoned through the pump into the rubber manifold intake block.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_194159_zps9cnw6xsv.jpg~original)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_194056_zpsm3jocwlc.jpg~original)
The exhaust has a massive lining of carbon probably nearly 5mm thick at its worse. Very heavy.
My first tear down experience with these. I cannot shake the image of the green projectile spew from the "Exorcist" movie.
I am so glad I didn't sell it unknowingly to some poor bastard in this state. I can't help wondering how much we would have to chip in to get the
Anola Gay to do another run?
I have followed the comments on this forum about the mechanical failure of these Kawasaki PV drives since I bought these bikes.
And always wondered if it is why there is very little giddy-up at bottom revs.
Your comments have strengthened my worse fears.
I am offline/house bound at the moment.
Hope to get it torn down shortly though.
I will post pics of the exhaust crust and tear down etc, soon.
Thanks ;)
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exhaust fire bbq coming up! 8)
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I just thought I best make something clear.
I bought the second 89 E model of Nathan. I thought it was the best bargain ever and still do 8)
And although it has a perfect condition original pipe, Nathan had also advertised it with a new new mint condition
FMF Gnarly Pipe complete with matching mint FMF muffler.
At the time our dollar was even poorer than now and it made more sense to buy this of Nathan for no more than what the FMF
arrangement would have cost from the US. So the way I saw it then and still see it now, is that I got the complete running
bike for FREE :) :) :) :)
To my surprise the bike has got very good wheels, tyres, discs.
New sprocket, perfect forks and rear shock, etc, etc.
I expect it may have similar issues to my smick one? doesn't matter, still an incredible bargain.
So just making it clear!!!!!!
If I go on to show and express frustration with what I see are lousy designs by Kawasaki Monkeys?
It is no way a disatisfaction or snipe at the great Deal Nathan sold me 8)
Pretty clear hey? I think so anyhow :)
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The stock pipes are ALL full of gunk, thanks to the later of mesh holding in a layer of fibreglass matting. They 'never' get hot enough to burn the oil out of the inside of the pipe, so they gunk up WAY faster than a normal single walled enduro or MX pipe.
If you were keen, you could cut a stock pipe open and pull out the mesh and the fibreglass before welding it back together. I've done a DT175 pipe and it was a filthy job. At worst, the weight saving would provide a significant performance improvement...
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I had a local exhaust man do that for my 87 200 years ago... he was a Suzuki factory road racing exhaust expert and he showed me how to spiral wind thin strips of fiberglass mat into the muffler to give a quiet response at even throttle (for the noise test) but to be effectively straight through under full throttle. it was loud under full throttle...soon had it packed full of steel wool....
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I expected the pipe would be like all others and have some sort of twin wall or mesh.
It is very heavy, but the thing is I haven't put an endoscope down it.
I should have said the heavy carbon layer is actually where I can easily see, that is; in the beginning of the pipe header and cylinder exhaust port. So I expect the PV ands its drive will be toast.
There is a huge amount of carbon. There shouldn't be so much carbon there for such small Kilometers.
I am liking the cutting open method best I think.
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The first thing that disappointed me was when I did the wheels and tyres.
I couldn't turn the front wheel bearings by finger.
When I knocked the bearings out I found them full of rust and maybe dust?
There were seals on the outer of the bearings, but not on the inside. One of my pet hates.
On a road bike maybe, but a bike that goes through creeks and gets running repairs, service, axles out and in, out in the field crud?
Road race bike to remove a poofteenth of drag? OK Maybe.
But what do you think has more drag, a couple of well greased neoprene seals or a bearing that has rusted or has grit in it?
No question for me. Seals both sides of wheel bearings please.
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I am chasing electrical faults.
I found this whilst checking continuity and cleaning connectors
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_140747_zpsehdkfzz3.jpg~original)
How could a mainstream manufacturer think this is acceptable?
These are dirt bikes, enduro bikes running through water mud and then being washed etc.
Does anyone think it is OK to put electrical connectors under the rear guard? where it is continually subjected to the slop off the rear knobs?
I think the wires from lights etc should be long enough to continue on to be able to make the connection to harness above the rear guard and under the seat.
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I can change a crank ignition seal on a Maico in 15 minutes.
Engine remains in bike.
Lay the bike over on its left side, screw off ignition cover.
Mark stator position, remove from position but leave wired. Just wrap in rag.
Screw puller into rotor, pop.
Prise out seal.
Put sealant on new one and push in.
Screw on Rotor, Stator and cover. Do it in ten minutes if you want to put a hundred bucks on it.
So this is the KDX set up
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_141017_zpsqmkb3cxr.jpg~original)
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Why would they do such a thing? Certainly isn't necessary.
I suppose it makes a dealership attractive to own though?
Yes sure mate, we can replace that $15 seal for you. It will cost you a thousand bucks though :o :o :o :o :o ::) :-\
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_154755_zpsbtfrr7ma.jpg)
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stop whinging and start spinning spanners ;D there is a massive discord btw mx bike made road legal as per maico - husky etc vs road bike made to go off road like the kawa. your bike is a road trail-aimed at the much larger market of road riders that do a little off roading now and then. this is where the bucks are for the jap manufacturers. In Aus at any time there are a couple of thousand or so committed offroad/ mxers looking for a real competition performance bike while there are tens of thousands wanting a bike that looks like a real race bike but has smooth power, soft suspension and good lighting...welcome to dual purpose world. the other model is the racer without all the stuff on it. why have I written all this? Im still asleep!!
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Funny, I woke up this morning thinking exactly the same thing. Time to just get on with it. I think I have been trying to draw a comparison and defence with my Open XR projects. All bikes have pros and cons, and some do somethings better and worse than others. Horses for Courses. I like all bikes except Chinese pit bikes ::) but I do not like having to do a massive amount of work and associated costs to change a $15 seal that should only take 15 minutes to do. And an expensive PV arrangement NLA but completely rooted because of an overdose of carbon from an overdose of 2t oil. From an obviously failed oil pump and or design. All on a bike that has less than 4,500 klms on it. No actually I am fuking pissed
On the other hand, I am that keen on a riding solution, that I have gone and pulled the engine out of the E and put it in the compliant F chassis. It will be a while before I can find or make all the bits for the F engine or to arrive. In the mean time I must have rego where I ride and that will hopefully make it happen.
We are all time limited. Ironic that I will have to abandon it now to prep a different pre90 bike without a rear disc for next weekend.
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You should have bought a Husky :)
Regards ,
Steve
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I just spent 3 hrs prepping for this weekend. changed gearbox hoil, cleaned airfilter, chased down airleak..loose manifold screw (PHEW) pulled out backwheel and greased brake pivot, cleaned shoes, whipped on a new rear hoop $80 bucks for a 120 100 18..woo hoo slipped it back together then pulled the front wheel did the brake pivots etc, welded a small spacer to the axle to replace the 6 washers ive had stuck in there since 2010 and reassembled. quick flog up the road to assess brakes etc all good..just need to remember to drop the 30 psi in the back tyre.....
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$220 still stands.
You've gotta remember that a Kawasaki crank seal should last about 15 years - so about 20 times as long as a Maico part... :)
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Hello !!!!! Mick you know I am 1st in line . lol
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Hello !!!!! Mick you know I am 1st in line . lol
Yeah Relfy, I am so glad I didn't sell it to you now. I would have felt terrible and certainly then obliged to sort it for you.
It will be a good thing. A very good thing, eventually.
The power valve will never fail again and it will be able to be checked that it is all free and working in a second before riding when I am finished. ;)
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I do love riding it. The standard brakes were terrible and rear was nearly non existent when wet.
Changed the compound, that made a considerable improvement, but they are still no where near as good as the brakes on the 500XR , front or rear.
And I have fitted them with the same compound(brand).
I will probably put a XR front twin spot on it eventually.
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:o :o
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$220 still stands.
:) I did consider for brief moment about 4 or 5 minutes about cutting my losses, but nah it is cheap rego(Under 226cc, so a 2t is the go there for me). I will sort it and it will be a great little bike.
You've gotta remember that a Kawasaki crank seal should last about 15 years - so about 20 times as long as a Maico part... :)
Nah, no, that's a long way from being true. The Kawasaki has Nitrile seals, which start going hard(loosing elasticity) from the day they are made. Regarless of whether they are on the shelf or installed. The bearings are perfect in this(lots of oil ;D) , so quite simply the seal has failed from age, as has the one in the E model
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/20160724_174232_zps7lfsif3p.jpg~original)
Not as bad and still runs well. I will use it while doing the F engine, then swap, then do the E engine.
The original aqua coloured Maico seals are actually a silicon base seal and never go hard. You can build your Maico, Store it for a hundred years. Then fuel it up and away you go. Put the correct grease in between the two lips and they will last a very long time.
People stupidly replace them when they are not worn out, with the black Nitrile ones.
Although silicon seals don't stand up very well to fuel blends, like methanol, ethanol blends(E85), etc.
So another reason to stick with BP98 if you are just sticking with Bowser fuel for Maicos with silicon seals.
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The Kawasaki has Nitrile seals, which start going hard(loosing elasticity) from the day they are made.
Yeah replace with Viton if you can and avoid fuel with Ethanol at all costs. Few guys have had constant issues with KDX seals not lasting like they used to and one experienced long time KDX owner pin pointed it to the fuel he was using which had Ethanol in it. Switched fuel taht did not have Ethanol in it and the seals last a long time now and not replacing them every 12months or something silly like that. I have also discovered this problem with fuel and NBR 2T crank seals and fit Viton crank seals instead.
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The Kawasaki has Nitrile seals, which start going hard(loosing elasticity) from the day they are made.
Yeah replace with Viton if you can and avoid fuel with Ethanol at all costs. Few guys have had constant issues with KDX seals not lasting like they used to and one experienced long time KDX owner pin pointed it to the fuel he was using which had Ethanol in it. Switched fuel taht did not have Ethanol in it and the seals last a long time now and not replacing them every 12months or something silly like that. I have also discovered this problem with fuel and NBR 2T crank seals and fit Viton crank seals instead.
Actually Leith, you have hit on a probable major addition, contributor to the cause there. Well done.
Do you have, or have access to Viton seals to fit them? I believe they are the same(sizing) from 89 till end of production, same for the 220 too
When I took this to the Gloucester Vinduro, I couldn't get BP98, So I bought 95 from a company I used to work for.
They have a long history of blending off high content ethanol slops.
I didn't drain this bike ::) doh :o When we did the stench was the unmistakable gone off ethanol stench and the carby was crudded up from ethanol sludge. It was unmistakable that we had been sold a micky of unposted and un-advertised ethanol slops.
Unmistakable and undeniable.
Good on you, Thanks ;)
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Has anyone had any experience with this mob? Leith?
Click on Pic for link
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv132/mc125mick/2016-07-27_zpsiquww8d5.png~original) (http://www.motoxparts.co.nz/p/kawasaki-kdx-200-engine-seals-pro-seal)
I am still going to modify the case so they can be changed while the engine is still fitted in the bike.
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Just to be a pain in ass, Viton comes in brown green and Black. now to confuse it even more there are several grades of viton all with different properties for chem resistance. the more fluro component in.. the better chem compatibility. . but when you get better chem resistance you lose other properties.. Green use to be the colour Europe used for viton. Brown was for US
Black viton has a pretty good chem compatibility but its hard to find as it gets confused with nitrile . and no one wants a law suit.
Best option find out from your supplier what grade of Viton the seals you want are and if they will be compatible with the application environment. They all will be but some are better than others.
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Interesting reading, even if Mick wrecked a casual Maico sledge. :)