OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: Gibbit on December 01, 2014, 11:00:49 am
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And so it begins!!
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1344_zps2eb0b540.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1344_zps2eb0b540.jpg.html)
It's already started! As you can see the rear guard is sticking up a bit so I stripped the rear end to straighten the frame. I found the pop rivets in the exhaust where flogged out so I took it to a mate to weld the holes in the alloy so I could redrill them. All good for now but it will get a new exhaust when the full resto starts.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1345_zps66f75584.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1345_zps66f75584.jpg.html)
Gave it a bit of a clean up.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1346_zps8039900c.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1346_zps8039900c.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1347_zps73bf52e2.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1347_zps73bf52e2.jpg.html)
My plan at this stage is to get it in A1 mechanical condition and enjoy it for a while. I'll start the full resto in 6 months or so.
I've been over it pretty well and can't really fault it.
Suspension. Good apart from needing a rear shock bump rubber.
Wheels. Will polish up well and bearings are good.
Steering bearings good.
Crank bearings. Good.
I think it might be down on compression so it may get a new topend before long. I'll do a compression test soon.
It came with a full set of OEM plastics too!
I plan to race QVMX and maybe also do Finke on it for a bit of a challenge. ;D
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Got the bump rubber today from Dave at suspension matters. So it's, strip the rear end again to get the shock out. Not as easy to work on as the newer bikes!
I need a spring compressor to get the spring out.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/2259B74C-DC3B-4B53-932D-DE1DAB615D04_zpsfbqqew9e.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/2259B74C-DC3B-4B53-932D-DE1DAB615D04_zpsfbqqew9e.jpg.html)
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You should be able to loosen the preload nuts until the spring falls out, no spring compressor required.
How you going to fit the bump stop?
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I've wound the preload nut right off and there is still tension on the spring.
I'm hoping that once I have the spring off, I can undo the bottom mount off the shaft somehow.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/DE65C949-64CD-456D-AF9A-C9B89BD5EDAE_zpspcq3sn8i.png) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/DE65C949-64CD-456D-AF9A-C9B89BD5EDAE_zpspcq3sn8i.png.html)
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If there is any tension on the spring, it should only be light, a bit of pressure with a big screwdriver/tyre lever should allow the collar to drop out ( number 9 on your shock diagram)
Have you rebuilt a shock before?
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I have wondered how viable it is slice (or other glue)the bumper, slip it on and super glue it rather than get the eye of the shock off or complete dismantle.have always dismantled though...
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Tried and failed Sean.
Glue splits when shock bump is compressed when shock bottoms.
Zip ties slice through... :P
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If there is any tension on the spring, it should only be light, a bit of pressure with a big screwdriver/tyre lever should allow the collar to drop out ( number 9 on your shock diagram)
Have you rebuilt a shock before?
You don't need to disassemble the shock. I just used a spring compressor to get the spring off, then unscrewed the bottom end off the shaft and slid the new bump stop on. Only took about two beers. It took a lot longer to clean and grease all the linkage bearing though.
I pulled the carby apart to have a look and found the needle was lowered one clip from standard and had a 490MJ (470mj standard). I lifted the needle and put a 480mj in. There is no point trying to tune it too much as I think it might be due for a new top end. It will get one soon wether it needs it or not anyway.
I took it out for a good ride around the Goondiwindi MX track today. It ran really well and I was quite surprised how well it handled.
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Thats a beast. I had a 490J and loved the torque. Always a bitch to start though.. flooding. Have fun with it!!
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Well I went away over the xmas break so decided to take the wheels apart and clean them up. I got them polished, hubs painted and back together. Polishing to all by hand was a stupid and time consuming idea but the results are quite good.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1478_zps87ab5068.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1478_zps87ab5068.jpg.html)
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All looking pretty good. It's surprising what good results you can get polishing by hand, I've done quite a few rims and all the plastics on my IT175 with what I consider a fine outcome. Painful tho...
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you should have at least reoiled and gassed the shock having gone to all the trouble of pulling it out ::).
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you should have at least reoiled and gassed the shock having gone to all the trouble of pulling it out ::).
It was only done recently. At some stage I will send it and the forks away to be serviced and have a few nice bits put in.
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I've ripped the head off the big girl to see what the piston and bore look like.
Not as pretty as I was hoping.
The bore is 1.00mm 4th oversize which is the limit, but that doesn't matter because the sleeve is cracked in three places so its off the Serco for a new sleeve.
The piston has grabbed the side of the bore a bit and the bottom piston ring is seized in the piston. Sh$t was about to go bad in a big way.
There is also what looks like cracks in the head but I'm not sure if its that or just imperfections in the casting.
On the upside, the crank has no play and I'm going to end up with a fresh engine. :)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1479_zpsfb937e4d.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1479_zpsfb937e4d.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1481_zpsde5439e5.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1481_zpsde5439e5.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1482_zps7f5811ea.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1482_zps7f5811ea.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1483_zpsb72f1806.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1483_zpsb72f1806.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1480_zps0b75d1ce.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1480_zps0b75d1ce.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1485_zps992d378c.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1485_zps992d378c.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1486_zpsd491bda7.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1486_zpsd491bda7.jpg.html)
Also can anyone tell me what brand piston this is? Wiseco??
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1484_zpsd002a6f6.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1484_zpsd002a6f6.jpg.html)
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Nice timing on the top end! I recently had the same experience with a cracked piston on a 480CR.. its definitely a golden rule to tear down the top end on any new (old) purchase, no matter what you've been told by the previous owner!
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good news about the crank, big save for sure as long as the seals are good.
you should consider slipping new seals and mains in while its apart. not a lot of $$ for peace of mind. especially with a full sleeve job on the top end.
be a shame to seize it if a main seal poops out.
nice looking bike for sure
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It's a Wiseco ;)
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is this bike a pre 90 carryover model? or does it fall into pre 95?
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Thanks fellers. I wont worry about new mains but I will do the main seals while its apart.
I thought it was a wiseco. What would people recommend? Going oem or wiseco piston for reliability (Im not after more power).
Yeah it will fall into the Pre 90 carryover model as they didn't even change the tank stickers from 1989.
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OEM if you can find 1 on ebay, you can see for yourself why not to use wiseco if possible, standard piston kits are normally easiest to find
I think the marks in the head look more like casting flaws rather than cracks
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OEM if you can find 1 on ebay, you can see for yourself why not to use wiseco if possible, standard piston kits are normally easiest to find
I think the marks in the head look more like casting flaws rather than cracks
Thanks Mate. Ill go oem and get an order done from the US.
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The 'Fatty' had a couple of cracks in it. I have plans to get a new one but not yet. I had a mate weld it up for me.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/F8516EE8-92C6-4F1B-A6D0-7BF935D57F0D_zpslcfk2jgv.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/F8516EE8-92C6-4F1B-A6D0-7BF935D57F0D_zpslcfk2jgv.jpg.html)
I had another mate clean the cylinder and head up a bit. Now I just have to wait for the piston to turn up so can send them off for a new sleeve and the infamous YZ490 head mod. I talked to Serco today. $650 for a new sleeve and the head mod. Expensive but it will be right for another 24years.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/C6FF5D87-B4CB-40EF-A23F-FA77984793C5_zpsvv8rauvy.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/C6FF5D87-B4CB-40EF-A23F-FA77984793C5_zpsvv8rauvy.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/E7067CDE-2877-408F-BCB2-626F9F919DA0_zps5zo1qlhc.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/E7067CDE-2877-408F-BCB2-626F9F919DA0_zps5zo1qlhc.jpg.html)
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whats the head mod in aid of? (excuse ignorance)
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The YZ 490 where well known for being a bitch to jet correctly. They are either blubbering or pinging with very little in between. With just a small machining to the head will make it much better and help with the detonation/pinging problem by changing the combustion flow.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/Head_Mod.jpg)
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Hi Gibbit,
Good job on the 490. Have you checked out Eric Gorr at Forward Motion http://eric-gorr.com/ See my YZ125K thread. Eric Gorr has been doing cylinders for years and is has a fantastic rep. I have sent him my cylinder, power valve and head. He is soda blasting the lot, then resleeving the cylinder back to standard, then matching the power valve. He ports the cylinder to the type of power you want and machines the head. He then matches up a Wossner piston kit to suit. $275 without piston kit, $100 extra with Wossner kit and they give 10% discount if your a VitalMX member. I am getting mine posted to my American shipping forwarders as i will get a bunch of stuff sent back at the same time and the post works out heaps cheaper. www.comgateway.com/
Cheers,
Alex
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also check out johhny o' thread on how to fix big bore pinging without the head mod... interesting reading. appears to be a totally different issue
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Hi Gibbit,
Good job on the 490. Have you checked out Eric Gorr at Forward Motion http://eric-gorr.com/ See my YZ125K thread. Eric Gorr has been doing cylinders for years and is has a fantastic rep. I have sent him my cylinder, power valve and head. He is soda blasting the lot, then resleeving the cylinder back to standard, then matching the power valve. He ports the cylinder to the type of power you want and machines the head. He then matches up a Wossner piston kit to suit. $275 without piston kit, $100 extra with Wossner kit and they give 10% discount if your a VitalMX member. I am getting mine posted to my American shipping forwarders as i will get a bunch of stuff sent back at the same time and the post works out heaps cheaper. www.comgateway.com/
Cheers,
Alex
The thought did cross my mind to send it to Eric but I want the bike going sooner rather than later, so I went locally. Serco have been around just as long as Forward Motion so they should know their stuff.
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also check out johhny o' thread on how to fix big bore pinging without the head mod... interesting reading. appears to be a totally different issue
You got a link? I cant find it.
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Seats done. Complete with gripper seat material in the center.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/49DFC06B-ABFE-4674-9416-CB48B3C35CED_zpsrgbvhmby.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/49DFC06B-ABFE-4674-9416-CB48B3C35CED_zpsrgbvhmby.jpg.html)
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All back together again. Now it just needs some cosmetic work and new top and bottom shock bearings and she's ready.
http://youtu.be/sFCIjvoZNZs (http://youtu.be/sFCIjvoZNZs)
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Sounds good.. its going to rip when you take her for a blast.
What are you going to do with the tank. I think you can bleach them, shave them, sand them, full cover decals or tank cover etc..
Also, how did you do the seat cover as i have a mate with an 89 yz250 and he wants virtually the same thing.
Cheers,
Alex
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Sounds good.. its going to rip when you take her for a blast.
What are you going to do with the tank. I think you can bleach them, shave them, sand them, full cover decals or tank cover etc..
Also, how did you do the seat cover as i have a mate with an 89 yz250 and he wants virtually the same thing.
Cheers,
Alex
Took her for a gentle run today, just running it in. Seems a bit lean but I'll wait for it to be run in before I play with the tuning.
I got the seat cover from pit replica on eBay then just got my mate who's an upholsterer to sew the gripper seat material over the top of it.
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I think I will have to buy a new oem tank when I can afford it. Bleaching apparently hardens the plastic and dosent really get them white again. I tried sanding it but the stain is right through. If anyone's done something that's works well, I'm open to suggestions.
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Taken from thumpertalk
"Not wanting to buy a new tank for vanity's sake, I went to my local bike shop to inquire about methods to restore the plastic. I was told by the parts counter that there was no way to remove this staining because it was actually the result of gasoline evaporating through the plastic for years on end, which stains the plastic from the inside out because of the pigments in the gasoline. Thinking this was odd, I went home, grabbed a pocket knife, and scratched the tank with the blade.... pure white just beneath the surface grime! So, I was either handed a line of BS to try to sell me a tank, or the guy just didn't know what he was talking about.
So, long story short is this.... If you get this unlikely story, don't just fork out the cash for a new tank. Try the pocket knife test first. If you get white underneath, it can be cleaned off. Here's how...
To get back to the pretty white shine, I used a combination of two methods... First, I took some sand paper (120 grit) to the tank to scrape off the stained plastic. Then I smoothed it with a finer grit. I also found that Soft Scrub with bleach and a lot of elbow grease took the staining out pretty well, too. The best outcome was achieved with a combination of sanding and Soft Scrub. When the Soft Scrub wouldn't quite do it (staining was too deep), the sanding finished it off nicely. A little disclaimer here... Keep in mind that if you apply sand paper to your tank, you will no longer have that smooth plastic sheen that was orginally there. It'll wind up with more of a matte finish. Of course, if it was stained anyway, who really cares? Anyway, don't say I didn't warn you if you'd be pissed at the matte finish result." http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/549226-tip-regarding-stained-fuel-tanks/
DC sells brand new white Clarke tanks for your bike for $230... https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=20619&cat=484&page=2
This mob will paint your tank, but its not cheap.. alternatively you can diy.. http://www.mxrestoration.com/tanks.html
This guy had a good go at a white yz tank and it came up pretty good.. http://motorcyclerenew.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/yz80-white-gas-tank-refurbish.html
Cheers,
Alex
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Took her for a gentle run today, just running it in. Seems a bit lean but I'll wait for it to be run in before I play with the tuning.
[/quote]
YZ490 is notorious bitch of thing to get jetted right, usually you get lots of mid range and no top end or pinging away bottom end ....the Serco head mod lowers compression which is a step in the right direction, IT490 head also works. Judging by the piston and head cracks it was pretty lean to start with, I would jet up a bit before I rode it any more.. They are really sensitive to the needle position, my 490S was like night and day just with one clip position changed.
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Taken from thumpertalk
"Not wanting to buy a new tank for vanity's sake, I went to my local bike shop to inquire about methods to restore the plastic. I was told by the parts counter that there was no way to remove this staining because it was actually the result of gasoline evaporating through the plastic for years on end, which stains the plastic from the inside out because of the pigments in the gasoline. Thinking this was odd, I went home, grabbed a pocket knife, and scratched the tank with the blade.... pure white just beneath the surface grime! So, I was either handed a line of BS to try to sell me a tank, or the guy just didn't know what he was talking about.
So, long story short is this.... If you get this unlikely story, don't just fork out the cash for a new tank. Try the pocket knife test first. If you get white underneath, it can be cleaned off. Here's how...
To get back to the pretty white shine, I used a combination of two methods... First, I took some sand paper (120 grit) to the tank to scrape off the stained plastic. Then I smoothed it with a finer grit. I also found that Soft Scrub with bleach and a lot of elbow grease took the staining out pretty well, too. The best outcome was achieved with a combination of sanding and Soft Scrub. When the Soft Scrub wouldn't quite do it (staining was too deep), the sanding finished it off nicely. A little disclaimer here... Keep in mind that if you apply sand paper to your tank, you will no longer have that smooth plastic sheen that was orginally there. It'll wind up with more of a matte finish. Of course, if it was stained anyway, who really cares? Anyway, don't say I didn't warn you if you'd be pissed at the matte finish result." http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/549226-tip-regarding-stained-fuel-tanks/
DC sells brand new white Clarke tanks for your bike for $230... https://www.dcvmx.com/xcart/product.php?productid=20619&cat=484&page=2
This mob will paint your tank, but its not cheap.. alternatively you can diy.. http://www.mxrestoration.com/tanks.html
This guy had a good go at a white yz tank and it came up pretty good.. http://motorcyclerenew.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/yz80-white-gas-tank-refurbish.html
Cheers,
Alex
Thanks mate. I tried the pocket knife test and its not white underneath but it's a bit better (See photo) and will probably make it nicer until I do get a new tank. The Clarke tanks are long range tanks and look a bit ugly. I will get one of these at some stage for when I race it at Finke, but would like the standard size tank for the majority of riding.
When I read about bleach making the plastic go hard I think they where leaving it in bleach for days, so maybe a few hours will be ok. Ill do some testing with the different methods and report back.
A new OEM tank is worth $580 inc. postage.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/BE037656-D054-4D31-B926-B414F40C97B7_zps5a6jvn25.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/BE037656-D054-4D31-B926-B414F40C97B7_zps5a6jvn25.jpg.html)
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Took her for a gentle run today, just running it in. Seems a bit lean but I'll wait for it to be run in before I play with the tuning.
YZ490 is notorious bitch of thing to get jetted right, usually you get lots of mid range and no top end or pinging away bottom end ....the Serco head mod lowers compression which is a step in the right direction, IT490 head also works. Judging by the piston and head cracks it was pretty lean to start with, I would jet up a bit before I rode it any more.. They are really sensitive to the needle position, my 490S was like night and day just with one clip position changed.
[/quote]
Thanks mate. The left hand crank seal was in pretty bad shape so I think it may have contributed to it running lean. The previous owner was running a 490MJ and standard is only a 470MJ. I have a 480MJ in it at the moment (I can't remember where the needle clip is). It was pinging a little under load when I rode it yesterday so I took the mixture screw from 2 turns back to 1.5 turns which helped. Its blowing a little smoke so I think it should be ok for another hour or so putting around until I start doing plug chop tests.
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Thanks mate. The left hand crank seal was in pretty bad shape so I think it may have contributed to it running lean. The previous owner was running a 490MJ and standard is only a 470MJ. I have a 480MJ in it at the moment (I can't remember where the needle clip is). It was pinging a little under load when I rode it yesterday so I took the mixture screw from 2 turns back to 1.5 turns which helped. Its blowing a little smoke so I think it should be ok for another hour or so putting around until I start doing plug chop tests.
[/quote]
Needle is worth about 3 main jet sizes in midrange, so start by going up to top position on clip....480 MJ should be about right. Replacing both crank seals and also make sure the seals around the read block are all new and sealing, any air leak is a major issue.
Pick up the needle one clip at a time and see how it goes. Use premium fuel and Bel Ray synthetic oil.
There is another modification that drills two holes ( about 6mm) from the floor of the intake into crank case space, the idea is you boost the pressure in the intake when the piston is descending using the displacement of the piston.... that was the set up I used on my WR500 which improved it .... came from the set up Robbie Twyerold used on his 490 which ran the cleanest I have seen.
I like the 490 T really nice looking bike.
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Now that its run in I have been fiddling with the tuning with not too much luck yet.
It is still pinging about half throttle a bit so I lifted the needle as a quick fix. It stopped the pinging but after riding it for a while it became impossible to start. Each time I checked the plug it was oiled up. I have put the needle back to the standard setting again and it starts first kick again. I think I will go up a size in the main jet and see how that goes. Im going to a vinduro this weekend so I might leave it for now as it will be a bit of slow riding without too much WOT.
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Now that its run in I have been fiddling with the tuning with not too much luck yet.
It is still pinging about half throttle a bit so I lifted the needle as a quick fix. It stopped the pinging but after riding it for a while it became impossible to start. Each time I checked the plug it was oiled up. I have put the needle back to the standard setting again and it starts first kick again. I think I will go up a size in the main jet and see how that goes. Im going to a vinduro this weekend so I might leave it for now as it will be a bit of slow riding without too much WOT.
Yes this is where the fun starts as in theory the needle and main are addressing the mid range to WTO and should not influence starting as this happens in the range of pilot and slide. 480 MJ should be enough but I guess try 490 MJ .. the difference between hitting and missing can be one clip position. My own feeling about the 490 is the problem is a mix of things.... 500 2 strokes like to ping, too much compression and too little flywheel effect plus the jetting. I am sure that the Serco modification to the combustion chamber is effective in as much as it is about lowering compression as it is about squish shape.
One of my friends swore by using 2 head gaskets in his 490 and another used an IT490 head and said that fixed it.
Finally I solved my 490 issues by dumping it on a 250..... but I do have a soft spot for the old air hammer as they will take a lot of abuse and the 490 T was a pretty looking bike.
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Thanks mate. I think the phrase 'close enough it good enough' will come into play here. It's either going to be the 480mj or 490mj. Probably will depend on wether I'm trail riding or MX.
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run a high quality synthetic oil at say 70 to 1 and see if that helps...just a suggestion. (motorex)
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I have an article somewhere on what Broc Glovers mechanic did to their '85 factory 490.
See if I can find it, from memory had something to do with modifying the standard needle and maybe head mods.
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I have an article somewhere on what Broc Glovers mechanic did to their '85 factory 490.
See if I can find it, from memory had something to do with modifying the standard needle and maybe head mods.
From what I have read Broc 's mechanic lowered the compression ratio, fitted a flywheel weight and from all accounts Broc hated it and rode it as little as possible.
Sounds like PWK carb can be jetted better and using 2 head gaskets like of my mates did isn't a bad idea.
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Don't get mixed up between fixes for the older models V's the newer ones.
IT490 head has less studs than 85 and up YZ490, as IT is side port engine similar to used in 82-84 YZ490.
85 and 86 490 have different ports to the 87 to 90 as well.
............
Cheers
Kim ;)
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We had our first mx practice day here in Gundy for the year and I ran it a few times. Ran like a dream. Started first kick and no pinging. Bloody rims have started cracking at the joins again tho, so that's the next thing to replace.
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Rims will crack a mile before they tear and inch, bit of cracking is pretty normal
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Thanks mate. I cant afford new ones at the moment so they will have to be right for a while.
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(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/B638FF6A-134C-425B-919F-F0D5C32C0472_zpswub31pv4.png) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/B638FF6A-134C-425B-919F-F0D5C32C0472_zpswub31pv4.png.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/8C41BC2F-B44A-45D2-A9F0-C8C6085617DB_zpsqfzqmuxv.png) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/8C41BC2F-B44A-45D2-A9F0-C8C6085617DB_zpsqfzqmuxv.png.html)
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Good to see the big 490 getting a work out and some big air. Good work and glad you got it running well.
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Posing.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/58F64C51-3286-4D01-83DC-D7C89020A47D.png_zpsvvwszmhp.jpeg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/58F64C51-3286-4D01-83DC-D7C89020A47D.png_zpsvvwszmhp.jpeg.html)
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I fitted some YZ450F foot pegs. You can see why in the photo.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1734_zpso22z2yfr.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/IMG_1734_zpso22z2yfr.jpg.html)
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Steg Pegz fitted.
I just made a template out of tin and took it to bloke who does laser cutting and he cut it and folded it for $80.
Then I stripped the bike back and another mate tig welded some tags to the frame for me.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/BDFCD01C-015F-4936-89E5-4E7588CBD7AD_zpsbwgksfpm.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/BDFCD01C-015F-4936-89E5-4E7588CBD7AD_zpsbwgksfpm.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/34F2E917-B357-4E00-8C2E-DC1078FA3FB2_zpsqtoieqoh.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/34F2E917-B357-4E00-8C2E-DC1078FA3FB2_zpsqtoieqoh.jpg.html)
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Hooking into it now.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/9B07E79B-6372-49F9-95E2-B99E10AC4850_zpsw9erfhul.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/9B07E79B-6372-49F9-95E2-B99E10AC4850_zpsw9erfhul.jpg.html)
The further I get into it, the happier I am with the condition of it all. I split the box last night and the gears are great. All the gear dogs are nearly perfect. Some of the bearings are a little notchy but I was replacing them anyway. Crank is OEM so I will recondition it with oem parts.
I pulled the forks apart tonight and they are pretty good too.
I have put together oem parts list of everything I want and it is about $2,400 if I buy here in Aust. or $1,300 from the U.S. Even with the crap exchange rate. Something I did notice is that there are actually more parts available here in Aust than in the U.S. It may say 'no longer available' on the U.S. Websites but Aust has them in stock.
A brand new FMF system is ordered as well.
This week I have to try and match the silver paint for the swingarm and lower forklegs before I bead blast them. I think I will just take them to my mate who is a panel beater to match it. He also says that he has a special clear coat that's virtually indestructible.
The engine cases will be bead blasted as well. I think I will just use the VHT gloss black on them and the VHT primer and clear coat.
I've nearly got the steering damper sorted, so then the frame can be sand blasted and painted. I think the colour called 'Radical White'.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/C43DAD0E-1769-4B0D-9BA9-8D550B4F048A_zpsezoremv4.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/D79140B5-16EF-4CFD-A8E9-EFAF614E79F3_zps2gbllwha.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/D79140B5-16EF-4CFD-A8E9-EFAF614E79F3_zps2gbllwha.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/D79140B5-16EF-4CFD-A8E9-EFAF614E79F3_zps2gbllwha.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/FF33E026-1FFD-4F18-82C8-2C1A220D82DB_zpsmbx4oxex.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/FF33E026-1FFD-4F18-82C8-2C1A220D82DB_zpsmbx4oxex.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/A181E801-90FF-45FC-845C-740064840A96_zpsmkzfuxyj.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/A181E801-90FF-45FC-845C-740064840A96_zpsmkzfuxyj.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/E681E531-DD29-409C-897B-60139FAF8D9E_zpsr3t9fu0p.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/E681E531-DD29-409C-897B-60139FAF8D9E_zpsr3t9fu0p.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/ADFCB58D-D8F4-4F24-A672-4DAA00538F81_zpseibf0fq3.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/ADFCB58D-D8F4-4F24-A672-4DAA00538F81_zpseibf0fq3.jpg.html)
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More bits turned up today.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/9912EABB-7E67-47FA-993E-7EFD573BB7BA_zpsiwpmqmyh.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/9912EABB-7E67-47FA-993E-7EFD573BB7BA_zpsiwpmqmyh.jpg.html)
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trick looking pipe are they not?
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Doesn't give it a real factory look, but it's what everyone had back in the day.
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Got some bits back from the blaster today.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/2074924B-DFE1-4165-8C36-FFDB38FB71AF_zpsmfqywmrr.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/2074924B-DFE1-4165-8C36-FFDB38FB71AF_zpsmfqywmrr.jpg.html)
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use a satin etch primer on the cases, pretty tough and looks good.
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I went down the dupli-colour path with high temp engine primer, then enamel and finally a flame proof clear coat.
I went with the gloss black, but I'm not happy with it (too shiny). I think I should have gone semi gloss.
I'm tempted to blast it and re-paint it again.
Its not a good photo but you get the idea.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/FCE234DB-D0FE-4BA9-84D6-570972785F89_zpsw3e2kkif.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/FCE234DB-D0FE-4BA9-84D6-570972785F89_zpsw3e2kkif.jpg.html)
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satin black etch primer does a great job
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I can't find it in a high temp paint.
I am blasting them and trying again. But I will do some samples on a peice of steel first this time.
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Retail therapy!
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/574942F9-FB06-4F85-A38E-D6CEB4B57D3B_zpsr6yxhtyc.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/574942F9-FB06-4F85-A38E-D6CEB4B57D3B_zpsr6yxhtyc.jpg.html)
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Hows that tank!! booowdiful... always good to have some nice goodies like that to fit to the bike...
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Retails for $1,300 so it would want to look good too. Thankfully I won't pay quite that much for it.
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(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/C02D3E01-70D5-48CF-9075-5778D992532F_zpsxy0vbjpc.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/C02D3E01-70D5-48CF-9075-5778D992532F_zpsxy0vbjpc.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/0779778D-3858-4A97-BF58-6611C9AB29A1_zpsqauinucz.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/0779778D-3858-4A97-BF58-6611C9AB29A1_zpsqauinucz.jpg.html)
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Ok so she's basically ready for Finke this year. Nomination is in.
Just need some final testing for suspension, jetting, gearing and some race numbers.
I'm trying to find about any jetting and suspension spec's they used on them back in the day if anyone knows.
I hear a guy called Eddie Baldissera set them up for Gall and Curtis back in the day. Any idea of how to contact him? I think they used a completely different carby.
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k639/Gibbit1/1990%20YZ490/E90D6120-A7DA-429B-ABB6-815163745522_zpspzwueesn.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Gibbit1/media/1990%20YZ490/E90D6120-A7DA-429B-ABB6-815163745522_zpspzwueesn.jpg.html)
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there is a trick to extend the pilot jet deeper into the bowl with some hose to prevent the vibrations allowing air into the pilot circuit. this stops the pinging apparently
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there is a trick to extend the pilot jet deeper into the bowl with some hose to prevent the vibrations allowing air into the pilot circuit. this stops the pinging apparently
Interesting. Ill have to look into that. The vibration at constant high speeds is a problem. My hands go numb.
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johnny orchard started the thread i believe
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johnny orchard started the thread i believe
Thanks mate, Ill look it up.