OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: kdx Geoff on December 16, 2013, 11:37:36 am
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Hi,
l have and 83 kdx250 rear shock that's leaked and would need a rebuild, any recommendations as to who can do this and what it might cost ?
Do they have any consistent issues l should be aware of ?
Thanks
kdx Geoff
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Hi Geoff,
get a Kawasaki manual as it explains how to pull the shock down. Get some 5wt oil, o rings and bush from EBay and do it yourself. Take it to get charged and you are done. It's not big or daunting job if you have the basics.
Cheers
Adam
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Thanks Adam, l may have been a tad premature, l now have the shock out of the bike and looks like the shaft is rooted, what's the are my options for replacements, a used shock off eBay ?
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a rechrome may be possible Geoff, talk to Mick at Bgo dirt bikes, he will know who can recrome the shaft. (if u cant get a good shocker) they should be a std KYB of that era so some one will know the best way forward for you.
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Geoff your shaft can be rechromed at Rad in Brisbane. I can rebuild your shock with a new seal head, oil, gas etc. I'm a full time motorcycle mechanic and do a lot of suspension work from home.. Up to you
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Send it to JohnnyO, he's local, a good guy, knows his shit and he's bought one of your clutchcovers for a CR. ;)
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Joan ..... I think it's time to take your medication again ;) seems you have the KDX's mixed up ;)
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Thanks.
l have a shock out of a 200, I'll see if that fits to get the bike mobile and as l have a manual, strip the old shock and see how bad it is.
kdx Geoff
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200 shock has a softer spring. May be slightly shorter. May have a different lenght hose to the reservoir (depending on whether it was from an A or B model).
Will fit and work, in any case.
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For those who like detail....
7/85 200 5/83 250
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/kdxGeoff/IMAG1199_zpsd3fed3e5.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/kdxGeoff/media/IMAG1199_zpsd3fed3e5.jpg.html)
They share the same overall length at approx. 425mm and damper diameter at 45.5mm.
The reservoir hose is a bit longer on the 200.
The spring on the 200 is 10.7mm and 11 coils.
The spring on the 250 is 10.9mm and 12 coils.
The 200 damper and the 250 spring look good, there's likely to be 1 good shock between them.
l just bought the 200 as a rolling frame and a box of bits a couple of weeks ago and was not thinking l bought well and had a bit of a complain, looks like l was wrong ;D
kdx Geoff
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Do they have any consistent issues l should be aware of ?
Thanks
kdx Geoff
Geoff , like all Alu shocks , the chances of a worn bore are very high . I have 40 mm steel conversion kits if you need it . ( Also 36 mm , 46 mm and 50 mm ) but I think yours are 40 mm .
Thanks, I'll get it apart and see how it looks
kdx Geoff
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For whatever reason, the old Kawi shocks seem much less prone to wearing the inside of the body than (say) old Yamaha shocks.
I guess the UniTrack design takes out more of the side loads, and they do have a thick walled body which better resists ballooning.
You'd never bet the house on the body having no wear, but for these shocks, the odds are better than even that the body will be servicable.
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Is a shock the type of thing you can do yourself?
They look simple but are they?
I have a spare I was thinking about having a go at :)
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usually need a special tool or two to get them a part but then its easy if the parts are available. the critical point is keep everything in order as you pull them apart. send it to someone.... that's my advice
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The 250 damper is apart and to this point its straight forward.
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/kdxGeoff/IMAG1207_zps046de54a.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/kdxGeoff/media/IMAG1207_zps046de54a.jpg.html)
The inside of the body looks like this....
(http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag23/kdxGeoff/IMAG1214_1_zpsa96ec6f5.jpg) (http://s1297.photobucket.com/user/kdxGeoff/media/IMAG1214_1_zpsa96ec6f5.jpg.html)
You can see a couple of marks on the bore around 3 o'clock. l didn't think they would be excessive for a 30 year old bike.... l was going to do a light hone with some lubricated wet and dry on a drill, is that acceptable for aluminium or is that a hardened working surface ?
Is this the best way to replace the shaft seal ? this is an assembly for a 200, says it wont fit a 250.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400628965092?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Thanks
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I have a 1985 KDX200. My shock body is steel.
What function does the remote reservoir perform ? Can it be removed ?
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I have a 1985 KDX200. My shock body is steel.
What function does the remote reservoir perform ? Can it be removed ?
http://www.worksperformance.com/html/faq.html
?Q: What's the advantage of remote reservoirs?
?A: Works shocks are pressurized with nitrogen. Standard Works shocks are a gas-emulsion type--that means that the nitrogen is charged into the oil. The remote reservoirs are attached to the shocks through a hose that transfers oil. Inside the reservoir is a polyurethane bladder that separates the nitrogen from the oil. There are two advantages to this. One is that the oil capacity of the shock is increased, which aids in cooling the shock fluid and increases the service life of the oil; and the second is that the compression and rebound valving will stay consistent under the most severe off-road terrain or closed-course track conditions.
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that shock looks good Geoff, should go back together fine with a new seal and a reoil and regas. is the chrome good on the shaft?
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that shock looks good Geoff, should go back together fine with a new seal and a reoil and regas. is the chrome good on the shaft?
Thanks John, the shaft has minor wear but nothing excessive and certainly looks serviceable.
For whatever reason, the old Kawi shocks seem much less prone to wearing the inside of the body than (say) old Yamaha shocks.
I guess the UniTrack design takes out more of the side loads, and they do have a thick walled body which better resists ballooning.
You'd never bet the house on the body having no wear, but for these shocks, the odds are better than even that the body will be serviceable.
Nathan,
just as a point of interest, the minor wear on the chrome of the shaft is on one side (the thrust side ?) of the shaft, there were no real wear marks to speak of in the shock body.
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Farmerize it Geoff, give the shaft a linish with a bit of 600 wet and dry then some 1200 and put it back together! should work fine.