OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => General Discussion => Topic started by: gettinold on January 25, 2012, 11:16:48 am
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Ok guys and gals. Like most of you I am sure i am just about to start a rebuild on a VMX and am starting to ask my self the question about rebuilding or paying more up front and buy a GOOD one that someone else has already done most of the hard work etc.
I understand the pleasures of doing your self etc but it would also be good to be able to fast track and have a bike already done NOW and being able to ride now etc.
My question is are any of you willing o share a story otr 2 about the cost of your rebuilds etc? ;D
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If you are going to keep it.....build it yourself properly..... parts and labour....over 10 K
If you wanna buy now FULLY rebuilt , expect to pay 7 to 12 K
If you wanna buy a supposedly fully rebuilt bike for under that....well it`s your call
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My question is are any of you willing o share a story otr 2 about the cost of your rebuilds etc? ;D
Thats a long piece of string question ;D
Two bikes:
TM250L more $$$$ spent than you could poke a stick at over 11 years.
RM125N (eekkk its pre85 :P ) 4k delivered,ready to race owned for 1 year.
Both are fantastic bikes and both did well at the Nationals.
Though the TM needed a need base gasket in the pits ;D
and RM now needs new stickers ;D
Its all about passion,not money !! ;) 8)
cheers A
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Talking about old Yamahas here:
A motor rebuild typically costs me ~$400 for piston kit, rebore, bearings, seals, paint and other fiddly crap. Add ~$200 if it needs a rod kit.
I've never owned anything rare enough to have to fork out for new gears etc - I just buy another ratty motor for $50 and get the bits that way.
Labour is all my own.
Chain and sprockets are ~$200 for decent stuff.
Tyres are ~$200/pair.
Basic reseal on a rear (single) shock is $180 or so (or $60 for parts/oil if you can DIY).
Levers, grips, bars, etc are about $200 for the lot.
Fork reseal is about $50 in parts/oil. Add $200ish for rechroming and ~$100 for rebushing if needed.
Seat covers are typically $50.
Air filter is ~$50.
A set of plastics is usually around $250 if you can get them.
Professional painting is mega-bucks. I am happy enough to do it myself for about $100 worth of materials - the finish is acceptable, but the pro job will stay looking good for a lot longer.
Wheel bearings are usually around $50 for the whole lot.
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That's the stuff that I consider to be inevitable to get the bike to a decent race standard. Usually, you'll be able to use some of the bits that come on the bike without spending money, but it depends on how pretty/fast you want it to be.
There will always be some other stuff that is needed - fuel tank resto ($500 for an alloy tank), fork boots ($40), brake shoes ($50), cables ($100), rear suspension linkage bits ($250ish), or you might discover that the barrel is on the last over-size, etc etc.
Upgrade stuff also shoots the price up - stuff like PD valves and good shocks and good pipes can easily add another $2k to the cost of a rebuild.
And dont forget that some bikes have expensive bits that an add up really quicly - YZ-G/H sidecovers, for example...
I always cringe when Ted talks money, but then I look at his bikes and they're a LOT nicer than mine... :D
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all depends on what you want to end up with ;D
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all depends on what you want to end up with ;D
Absoforkinglutley ;D Joan Tite builds great race bikes that are very easy on the eye 8) but i wouldn,t want to keep the recipts
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Did this exercise some time back on a 1985 RM125.
Original e-bay bike - $500
Front tyre/rimlock/tube/rim tape - $150
Rear tyre/rimlock/tube/rim tape - $165
Front & rear wheel bearings - $40
Tag Bars/grips, Levers etc - $100
Clutch & accell cables - $65
Chain buffer/chain guide/chain roller - $80
Front/rear sprocket & chain - $160
Seat recover - $120
Piston/rebore - $160
Gasket sets/bearings/seals/rod & associated engine parts - $500
Carbie needle jet/needle and return spring - $60
Air filter - $35
Exhaust bits and repairs - $50
Genuine Suzuki bits. CDI holder and damper, shock canister support & bands - $40
Rear shock overhaul - $280
Front fork service - $60
Swing arm bearings, rocker bearings, strut bearings - $220
Front brake pads & rear linings - $65
Various bits & pieces. Paint, Sandblasting, plating, nuts/bolts, Kill switch, etc, etc - $200 (Guess)
Sticker Kit - $100
So there you go, somewhere around $3K with most of the work being done by myself.
- No spokes being replaced (I de-laced the wheels and polished the spokes)
- No rim replacement, If you were doing those than you’d automatically add another $800.
- No powder coating of the frame.
- No plastics (front no plate aside) as the plastics on the bike were ½ reasonable.
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my bikes run in around the $2K~$3K mark ready to race and part time they take me about 18months or so with beer.
there are much better bikes around for sure but i'm a bloke that has no problems with $3 cans of paint ;)
the beauty of doing it yourself is that you'll KNOW it's done.
rather than taking someone elses word for it.
and that for me is the big descision maker right there.
also, when doing it yourself you have the chance while it's apart to personalise the bike as part of the build, levers, pegs, paint scheme, engine/pipe mods etc
horses for courses :)
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Like everyone else has said depends on what your after my Nugent has cost me an arm and a leg and i built everything myself bar the shock now you can build a great bike cheaply.but depending on how picky you are a rebuild will usually cost you more than a restored one of same quality
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also depends on how much you can do yourself - I usually have to farm out my engine rebuilds and shocks but try and do everything else myself.
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Trick new wheels costs $$ A good rebuild on a rare bike costs more than common ones, I have bikes done both ways and you always have a softer spot for one thats been built by your own hands.My last full restore owes me around 6k. If money is a real concern I say it's cheaper to by one thats ready to go.
Beware what is one person's version of race ready and your's maybe worlds apart.
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With 4 stroke engines it also depends on what level you want to call a full rebuild. Some people will call and engine "Fully" rebuilt if the have the head done up, cylinder rebored and new piston and rings fitted. But if you go down the road of replacing all the bits that are actually worn, i.e. Con rod, bigend bearing, main bearing, seals, gearbox bearings, oil pump rotors etc you end up spending much more money that you would ever be willing to tell the wife! I know that I would be living out in the shed if she every found out the true cost of some of my 500 Yamaha engine rebuilds.
CJ
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It all depends on how many new NOS parts you also want to throw at it and what you can rebuild. There about $300 worth of fasteners alone on my HL500 replica / tribute/ theme bike. But that bike was built to a standard rather than price.
After building a few I have decided best to skip the shitter wreck off ebay's farmers market and save the $1000, just buy good bits as they come up, so clean frame, clean motor, forks with the chrome still on them, tank without dents, new shocks plastics etc.
I have 73 Husky 250 on the go, clean running motor was $200, already 2 pack painted frame and swinger $150, decent rebuilder wheels axles, spacers etc $200, very clean forks $150, nice tank $265..... you get my drift that it is cheaper to be patient and buy nice parts at the right price rather than reconditioning or rechroming everything knackered thing on the bike.
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It all depends on how many new NOS parts you also want to throw at it and what you can rebuild. There about $300 worth of fasteners alone on my HL500 replica / tribute/ theme bike. But that bike was built to a standard rather than price.
After building a few I have decided best to skip the shitter wreck off ebay's farmers market and save the $1000, just buy good bits as they come up, so clean frame, clean motor, forks with the chrome still on them, tank without dents, new shocks plastics etc.
I have 73 Husky 250 on the go, clean running motor was $200, already 2 pack painted frame and swinger $150, decent rebuilder wheels axles, spacers etc $200, very clean forks $150, nice tank $265..... you get my drift that it is cheaper to be patient and buy nice parts at the right price rather than reconditioning or rechroming everything knackered thing on the bike.
Marc just curious , are your ouoted prices in US , AU or NZ $$$$$ and do they include shipping to ?????? your scheme has merit for sure , but a lot of blokes have one or two bikes and they want to rebuild /restore and get out and ride the thing within a reasonable time frame.
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WOW thanks everyone so far for your imput. I can do most thing etc. Its just when you start mentally adding it up you start to wonder if you should buy one already done?? hmmmmmmmmmmm ??? ???
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I have spent over 10K restoring from the ground up my RM 465Z, including the original bike and all the associated costs of importing it into Oz. This was spent over 12 months and I loved the whole process of researching, finding parts from all over and actually getting my hands dirty.
At the start of the project I thought it would cost all up about 6K but as I went I probably over did the replacing of things a bit but once I got on a roll I couldn't stop!
The biggest costs were rebuilding the shock and forks as they weren't in the best shape and neither am I!! They cost approx $1500 all up to redo all the internals but I figured it was an investment in my own health and enjoyment of the bike
With hind sight I think I should have bought a decent bike already done but I couldn't find an RM465Z in acceptable condition for sale at the time despite looking on and off for 12 months
Good luck with the decision and what ever you decide I am sure you will have a ball and that is the most important thing
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Different people have different ideas of what a good rebuilt bike is.
I spent about $3-4k on a Wr240 husky rebuild.
My mate spent $3k on a "totally as new" rebuilt Wr240.
His bike has many new parts and it is still a heap of sh*t , he prefers to ride mine.
We spent a heap of time putting parts the right way round on his and it,s still not right.
We will probably end up stripping it and starting again.
The seller was real proud of the job he had done and by his standards it was probably pretty good.
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Marc just curious , are your ouoted prices in US , AU or NZ $$$$$ and do they include shipping to ?????? your scheme has merit for sure , but a lot of blokes have one or two bikes and they want to rebuild /restore and get out and ride the thing within a reasonable time frame.
Most of my stuff comes out of the US of A and Japan so I will have to fess up and say USA prices so add our slow boat to Auckland shipping costs, it still works out OK and for me it is part of the fun finding the bits.
If you are in hurry then of course 100% better to buy a bike already finished, in most cases it will be a lot cheaper but less self fulfilling. I see clean a nice CR500 sitting about for months on Trademe at the moment for $4500, total bargain and I am not for a minute going to even suggest that you could build it for that.
I guess the point I am making is starting with a shagged donor bike and trying to recondition the junk can cost more than spending a little more on clean parts off ebay, forks for example with good chrome ..... I mean i have tried both approaches for sure.
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For sure Marc :) you have an eye for a bargain :) and i agree completley with your philophosy :) :)
You have picked up some bargains and its a buyers market :)
I think a lot comes down to what you want and what you can afford ::) i honestly could not build a bike to the standard i would like to :-[ its not money (well to a point :D) im reasonably skilled mechanicaly ( Im a mechanic by trade plus can weld and use a lathe etc ) although i really really hate mechanicing these days ;D
But i dont have the paitentce or the eye for detail to build a bike as i would like ::)
Ideally i would give the donor bike to somone like Joan or Mike Felton to build and just sign the cheques ;D but pride and knowing i am probably capable (if focused ) of doing it myself prevents me from doing that.
Buying a ready to race bike is a mine field ::) there are a lot of Mudgaurd bikes out there (shiny on top shitty underneath ) and a lot of blokes will sell you them truly believing that they have done a good job :-X
Everyone has a different opinion of whats restored or race ready as well as values :-\
Ted got a lot of flack from certain people when he had his KX 500 for sale but in reality it was a bargain :)
If your doing it yourself set a budget and expect to spend 2 to 3 times that much ;)
I recently bought my Metisse in the UK :) i was very happy with what i paid for it even though i bought it from photos and my dads inspection over the phone. I have allowed a couple of grand or so to tip into it to personalise it for me and to relpace the cases that have had a welding repair ( witch was mentioned in the ad ) and hopfully i will still have a personalised Metisse for less than i could have built one from a frame kit etc.
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Personally it depends on is it a bike you REALLY want as in pined for as a kid(to me anyway) ,if so it becomes a passion and what i do is completely strip the bike when i buy it,as in not even start it,bottom end/engine is split ,frame and bodywork are stripped and i rebuild it to the "intended use" stage,my bikes dont have to look as if they just came off the showroom floor, i just try to get them as tidy as i can but every bike i do is 100% mechanically strong, there is no stone left unturned,all my bikes are built to be ridden and i want reliability without compromise,so from steering head bearings to main bearings are all new plus every other bush,washer or whatever but i dont replace rims etc because mine are'nt shiny enough, if rims ,spokes etc are still usable i clean them up the best i can, so there ya go ,just my opinion but what i do is spend what i need to and everyone certainly has different views on a finished bike.
cheers Dale
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WOW thanks everyone so far for your imput. I can do most thing etc. Its just when you start mentally adding it up you start to wonder if you should buy one already done?? hmmmmmmmmmmm ??? ???
What Vandy said + one
Do it yourself, then you know it's done. I've had two mates buy either complete bikes or engines that have been rebuilt only to discover they weren't anywhere near as described.
The mid to late 70's Jap two strokes are eay to work on easy to find parts for and if you shop around, cheap to rebuild.
Unless you're buying a rebuilt bike off a mate you know and trust I wouldn't buy a going bike for big dollars in a pink fit.
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my bikes run in around the $2K~$3K mark ready to race and part time they take me about 18months or so with beer.
Come on Mick. You gotta remember there are people on here that know you ::). The beer bill alone would be $2k~$3k ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I agree with the sentiment on here. If you buy a good base it can be "relatively" cheap if you do it yourself. If you try and rebuild a thrashed out old wreck (as I did for my first Resto) it will cost you a mint. Try to get something complete, low hours. Do it yourself and it may not cost you the earth. Or as the boys say, buy off someone you know and trust.
I'd pay 10K for that CR ;)
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my bikes run in around the $2K~$3K mark ready to race and part time they take me about 18months or so with beer.
Come on Mick. You gotta remember there are people on here that know you ::). The beer bill alone would be $2k~$3k ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I agree with the sentiment on here. If you buy a good base it can be "relatively" cheap if you do it yourself. If you try and rebuild a thrashed out old wreck (as I did for my first Resto) it will cost you a mint. Try to get something complete, low hours. Do it yourself and it may not cost you the earth. Or as the boys say, buy off someone you know and trust.
I'd pay 10K for that CR ;)
The thing is though, that people pay more for a 'complete' bike than a pile of bits and then half of the 'complete' bike goes in the bin anyway. Unless you're getting a bargain, you're better off assuming the worst even if the thing is on wheels.
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Very rarely in this world do you get something for nothing.
If you’re the sort that needs to replace everything to perfection then you’re not going to be happy with the cheap restored bike because it won’t be built to the same perfection.
Rebuilding from a basket case isn’t so bad from the point of view that if your going to keep it and ride it for the next 5 years then you will know exactly what you have got.
Too many times I have heard from guys thinking they have bought good bikes only to discover they need all sorts of thing doing to them because they buyer has different standards to the seller.
As others have stated, there are many different standards out there.
‘Top end freshened up’
To some this would mean a rebore and piston and to others it may mean a new ring, it all depends on what circles you move in.
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Yes how long is a piece of string? I purchased my first vmx bike, YZ250C with what was described as something that only required very little work to become a race bike. As this bike is rarely available and not knowing when another would be for sale, I believed the sellers bullshit, and paid a hefty price.
$6000 dollars later,( not including purchase price ) I have a fairly decent race bike, but am still looking to spend more dollars on it. You might have a budget in mind, but most of us go beyond that amount.
There is some self satisfaction of totally restoring an old bike and it should reward you with many years of enjoyment.
I did the reverse for my second vmx bike. I bought a fully restored YZ125K. Nothing to spend, just get out and race it. This bike cost me $700 more than the purchase price of my YZ250C, and that included import costs from USA.
I have gone with two different methods to get myself 2 vmx bikes, and for one bike that has cost me plenty, I have had a big win with the other.
At the end of the day, it will cost you what you are prepared to spend, plus some. And at the end of the day you will enjoy riding it, as the rest of us do.
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I have spent over 10K restoring from the ground up my RM 465Z, including the original bike and all the associated costs of importing it into Oz. This was spent over 12 months and I loved the whole process of researching, finding parts from all over and actually getting my hands dirty.
At the start of the project I thought it would cost all up about 6K but as I went I probably over did the replacing of things a bit but once I got on a roll I couldn't stop!
The biggest costs were rebuilding the shock and forks as they weren't in the best shape and neither am I!! They cost approx $1500 all up to redo all the internals but I figured it was an investment in my own health and enjoyment of the bike
With hind sight I think I should have bought a decent bike already done but I couldn't find an RM465Z in acceptable condition for sale at the time despite looking on and off for 12 months
Good luck with the decision and what ever you decide I am sure you will have a ball and that is the most important thing
I think I fall into this category too. Started off with a good example of a CR 500 that was missing some NOS factory stuff, such as expansion chamber and muffler (came with full FMF system), speedo, indicators, tail light, stickers, chainguard and sidestand. So I chased these up and you can imagine the price. Realising that some of the ADR stuff is no longer in production I thought "I'll buy some extras as well". I somehow ended up with a number of parts that were the last ones on Honda's shelves here in OZ. So after a few extra full sets of plastics and spare everything else NOS I have racked up a bill of $9500 and have not even started the "project" as yet. I won't even mention the purchase price of the bike either. It has become bigger than Ben Hur. It started out as I'll grab that bike as it can be registered and I can ride it without getting hassled by Mr Plod". I know that I will definitely never ever get my money back but strangely that doesn't trouble me. It's definitely an untreatable disease isn't it?
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It gets cheaper and easier, the more you do - you learn what works and what doesn't. You learn who the cheap suppliers are. You learn what matters and what doesn't.
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Buy a good base to start with and build it yourself....part of the thrill is chasing parts and seeing the finished product.
Like the others say,the more you do it,the cheaper it gets....(kind of :D)
I kept the receipts to my RM125C build but have never bothered adding it all up and dont care as that moneys GONE ;D
and god knows how many hours labour i should charge myself!
BUT I HAD A BALL DOING IT.
Its sits in my lounge gathering dust as i occasionally sit on it and make bing bing bing noises ;D
It would be nice to see more bike builds on this site since the $AUD has been in our favour for a while.
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Ideally i would give the donor bike to somone like Joan or Mike Felton to build and just sign the cheques ;D but pride and knowing i am probably capable (if focused ) of doing it myself prevents me from doing that.
There is a bike that I don't talk about Bill, that I signed the cheques for and it went horror wrong. I was new to the VMX scene and got taken for a ride by a so called VMXer....... or as someone mentioned earlier some guys have a completely different standard, he thought he had done a good job.
Bit like most things you need to build a bike or two to figure what approach works and what doesn't. I think the most expensive part is usually the motor so if you can score low hour one normally the bike is well on the way/
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How much time you got and how soon do you want to be riding/racing it?
Have you got young kids or are they grown up? If young, there is always all the time they need to consider, soccer practice, sports days etc. What is your work load like? Can you afford all the time the resto will inevitably take?
I asked myself the same question and decided I wanted to ride more than I wanted to restore so I found the best 'race ready' bike I could find for a reasonable and affordable price. Yes, it came to me with some things that weren't quite right but I've had a great time racing this past season I otherwise would not have had.
If you can afford it, do both. A good resto, giving yourself the right amount of time to get the parts at the right price, in a time frame where you are not putting yourself under more pressure than our lives are already under takes time.
I'd be interested to hear how many guys on here have a bike in bits in the corner of their shed that they started 3, 5, 7, 10 years ago and haven't finished yet because they really didn't have the time they thought they did to do the resto. I know I do, at the same time I bought my race ready bike, we bought a 65 CZ 125 and it is still in bits in the work shop. If that is the case, a finished bike seems a cheaper option to me.
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Time is my main consideration these days and it is why I rejected a purchase not long ago for a bike I was really keen on when it was all said and done I just knew that it would still be in bits 2 years from now. To build my last total rebuild took well over 100 hrs and given that I,m a metal fabricator by trade who knows all sorts of mad bike building tricks I don't know how others do it. Given also this bike is rare and parts are not on ebay every day didn't help. I just don't have the time to build another one like this.
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6933/7706.jpg)
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I found my pre 70 RT1 in a shed at Yass for $100,
Pulled it to bits, re assembled with new fork seals g/box bearings crank seals chain paint nuts & bolts paint, not 'concourse' but ready to race for grand total approx. $350.
cheers pancho.
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It always helps if you can find a low hours/low owners bike to start with. My 81 RM250X was a one owner, the guy still had the sale receipt from when he bought it, and it had spent the majority of its life sitting around. Pretty much everything in the way of wear and tear items needed replacing from either being worn or perished! I got excited and powdercoated the frame, new plastics etc as well as the usual mains, piston etc, and the thing rides and looks as nice as the day it was manafactured.
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Time is my main consideration these days and it is why I rejected a purchase not long ago for a bike I was really keen on when it was all said and done I just knew that it would still be in bits 2 years from now. To build my last total rebuild took well over 100 hrs and given that I,m a metal fabricator by trade who knows all sorts of mad bike building tricks I don't know how others do it. Given also this bike is rare and parts are not on ebay every day didn't help. I just don't have the time to build another one like this.
That is one very tidy little KATO. Nice job.
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I usually put bikes together from bits and pieces picked up along the way.Try to get good components right from the start,sometimes you don't know for sure until you get it home.I'm not too fussed about cosmetic appearance and like having a bike with a "raced for years patina"so don't spend much on that side of things,but like all the moving bits to work well.I will buy a new pipe,carb and/or electronic ignition if it comes up or to improve perfromance.Most of my bikes(all at the moment )are CZs and heaps of stuff is interchangeable across the range so that helps I can scroung a part of one bike to race another etc.Have'nt done the numbers but would be surprised if I spent more than 4000 on a bike.Recently I have been eyeing off plenty of good cheap stuff on Mark's SM and thinking why not just buy something ready to go and import it?or going to someone like Big K who has a few good rides ready to go...basically i'm a tight arse :D
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Ok guys and gals. Like most of you I am sure i am just about to start a rebuild on a VMX and am starting to ask my self the question about rebuilding or paying more up front and buy a GOOD one that someone else has already done most of the hard work etc.
I understand the pleasures of doing your self etc but it would also be good to be able to fast track and have a bike already done NOW and being able to ride now etc.
My question is are any of you willing o share a story otr 2 about the cost of your rebuilds etc? ;D
Just incase your thinking British ;D
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=8968.0
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To answer your question, anything from $350 to $15k depending on parts availability, rarity, whether you are tight fisted or extravagant. Also how much you do yourself comes into play.
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However along to way as mentioned you often get a little bit smarter, I am sure we all have some building tips to share, heres mine
tip #1 is buy one of those plastic boxed MX bolt kits, save you millions in running about and they look like bike original bolts unlike stainless bloody cap screws.
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To answer your question, anything from $350 to $15k depending on parts availability, rarity, whether you are tight fisted or extravagant. Also how much you do yourself comes into play.
bud have you got a pic off that $350 resto, ;D id like to see your workmanship in that one 8)
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Should I add to the cost of a rebuild, compressor, spray guns, bench polisher, sand blaster, electric oven, dry film, ceramic coating, PTFE coating, tools, special made tools (vibrating polisher), Aluminium Oxide etc.... etc..... My advice, do it because you want to and it makes you happy. Counting costs and keeping reciepts adds nothing to the process of restorations. The feeling and knowing what has gone into your build at the end along with the satisfaction is what is about. Great comments by others admiring your bike and work is priceless.
Kevin
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To answer your question, anything from $350 to $15k depending on parts availability, rarity, whether you are tight fisted or extravagant. Also how much you do yourself comes into play.
bud have you got a pic off that $350 resto, ;D id like to see your workmanship in that one 8)
not me mate. I got no chance of that. Old mate with his rt1 put $350 in his beast. I would blow that on two tyres, two tubes, a set of wheel bearings and a cup of coffee. But I'm not happy running thirty year old tyres, rusty spokes that could snap on the first jump or own/ race a trail bike for that matter. You know I'm a snob!! ;D
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Another point....if you do it yourself you know what your getting from scratch.. 8)
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Hmmmm thanks for all your comments. I supose deep down I new the answers .Its just good to hear others experiences. :)
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Another point....if you do it yourself you know what your getting from scratch.. 8)
Is that necessarily a good thing? :D
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I have tried to avoid this thread as I dont want to add it up :o it will hurt :'(
Cheers Nob
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LOL Nobby. You did just answer the question! ;)
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Give you an example of the funny things you'll find on a rebuilt bike.
Mate bought a 86/WR 240 and it looked pretty good although the seller commented that the brakes were a bit sad.
I have one of these so the comment went over my head as the 86 brakes were a bit sad.
When we got it home we gave it a bit of a spin and the front brakes were non existent - scarey.
Looking closer I finally figured out that he had fitted a BRAND NEW 1987 front wheel [ where he found this I haven't a clue] and it looks very nice.
But.
The 86's have a floating disk and fixed caliper.
The 87's have a fixed disk and a floating caliper.
If you put a 86 caliper with a 87 disk then you have no brakes. :o
The seller had spent the money but never had a clue.
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Brakes, Mike? What do you want them for? Most my bikes don't have any. I use trees,and any other objects to help me navigate around a track.
Back onto the thread.
I paid some big dollars to get my "72 CR 125 Husky" engine rebuilt. It was very hard to find parts,and some people who had the parts were pretty expensive to buy off.I guess after owning the bike since 1992,I finally got the desire to start and finish this project,thus I suppose I spent too much on it,by not shopping around,my fault really.
Whats that song I hear?? Can you hear the drums Fernandoooo?
Cheers,Mark.