OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: monaro308 on December 01, 2010, 01:00:00 pm
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Well i couldn't help myself...again ;D
My new RM250...well thats how it was advertised :D even though PE is plastered over the seat and Vin plate. PE250 7/80
T model to me PE250-203582 frame and PE250-203467 eng/no
Picked it up this morning and spoke to the mother of the 16 y\old son thats been riding it.
She said it was her brothers bike and bought it new,so its been in the family from day 1.
It died a couple of months ago...no spark she says....so i'll be checking from the kill button onwards to the typical PE cdi/stator syndrome.
It has fairly low comp too.....so a strip down will be on the cards
Rear shock numbers match.....ie not the same# L-R but match Alpha part #.
No leaks and comp/rebound feels fine but bushes flogged out.
Original seat with a couple of tears,original air box lid,forks feel/look good,but it must have a diff front wheel 1/80 with a blanked speedo drive casting.
Oh well i didn't need another project and i can't find a PE175X,so bugger it,a PE250 will do me.
Stay tuned folks! ;D ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe2.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe1.jpg)
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Good score Mario :) will follow this one with interest . MX conversion or Vinduro bike ???
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8) not a bad looking thing at all Mario. I am correct to assume you are going to refit all the the PE gear?
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TM BILL it will be vinduro and would actually like to use it for a change ;D
I've only ever ridden a PE175X (my old one)and kinda wanted the PE250 back then but never regretted getting the 175 (loved it) then karting took over for 13 years ::)
Chris,yeah as hard as it is finding all the PE gear i'm not going to lose sleep over genuine panels and so on (which i'd love)but DC plastics will do for usage and a dress up.
I could barely move in my shed...and now i can't move...lol...and the mower handle has finally hit the door.
I actually started working on the PE175D frame yesterday (section cut out behind left footpeg) and still debating about chasing another frame,but it looks like its going on the backburner again. :D
Already having visions and trying to remember if the 250T cases are similar to the PE175D cases and shoe-horning it into the RM175 that i did???? Only as a back up ;)
Nah this ones staying together but will measure it up just out of curiosity.
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I could barely move in my shed...and now i can't move...lol...and the mower handle has finally hit the door.
That's why the 'good' mowers have the folding handle - means room for 1 extra bike. ;)
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I could barely move in my shed...and now i can't move...lol...and the mower handle has finally hit the door.
That's why the 'good' mowers have the folding handle - means room for 1 extra bike. ;)
HAHAHA ;D true but being a lazy prick i stopped doing that too.
Although i do have to fold the handle on the H@#da mower in my mums shed as the Monaro takes up that space as well :D
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Welcome to the Pe club ;D you will be suprised how quick they are. Does your front brake plate have Magnesium cast on it ??? if so she be a Rm
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Welcome to the Pe club ;D you will be suprised how quick they are. Does your front brake plate have Magnesium cast on it ??? if so she be a Rm
Dunno oldfart. I'm surprised at how SLOW it feels after my Rotax engined Canams. I seem to remember my old PE being quicker as well - my current 175T is healthy in the engine too. Still, its good as a dunny bike and to lend to my Vinduro novice mates ;D
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Will check the RM125T for the casting in the morning oldfart,can't say i've noticed but i thought RM's had just a basic flat plate,this one has the casting but not machined and will see if it has magnesium.
I think that dunger RM125alphabet :D bike i got early this year had a PE front end....will check that tomorrow as well ;)
I havent fully qualified yet for the PE club,the PE175D is in bits,one 175C is missing alot of parts,
another 175C is the same,the 175E engine is in the RM125 frame (which is great to ride) and another 175D engine in bits.
So this PE250 might get me in the club ;D ;D
I gotta pull me finger out and book the RM175 in for rec rego and put the RM125T engine together and make room to pull the PE250 apart.
cheers...mario
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Rechecked front wheel this morning and false alarm...the casting is blanked off with silastic and painted over,but wondering if the PE250 hub is larger than the 175.
This one measures 165ish mm and my 175 hubs measure 140mm
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pewheel.jpg)
I also found my spark problem and typical with PE.....broken magnet :'( and stator windings have broken wires,but coil pulser winding looks good :)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pemagneto.jpg)
Time to search the hard stuff....all in good fun!
cheers....mario
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Head down bum up time ;D
Had a play with the bike this morning and cleaned the thread up on the end of the crank and searched for a woodruff key.
Wanted to see if the flywheel would give any spark with a rooted magnet,bolted it all up and it did have a spark....not a strong one.
Gave it some fuel and a few kicks...nutting!!
Just the occassional big backfire :o.So i tried an old RM coil,same again.
Then i went through my box of PE175 stuff and tried the whole magneto set up and flywheel....same deal just to see if i had spark (i'm sure Luke said you can modify the 175 plate holes to use on 250's,i'll read up on that later).
No backfire with the 175 set up but has spark.
Pulled the carby off and cleaned and reset the float levels and tried again...same.
Refitted the 250 mag and at least got a backfire again....so i tried the RM cdi off the alphabet bike and after a few kicks it roared into life!!! and idled pretty much straight away ;D
At least i know it runs now,so i'll figure out what to do with the electrics next and may have to run the 175 set up as the 250 flywheel is bastard to find (am i correct Luke and Leith)??
cheers.....mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peruns.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peruns2.jpg)
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The "large" 250/400 T/X flywheel is indeed a bastard to find, as they had a history of dropping the magnets!
Live with the 'old' smaller flywheel and stator. They work fine.
Luke
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Can the magnets be secured better by running a bead of something like loctite or super glue around the edges. I have had a couple of PE's and luckily never had the problem but I thought about it afterwards etc. How are they held in place anyway? I saw a good PE250T flywheel at a wreckers recently- unfortunately he knew what it was worth- he wanted $150. Not so bad if you really want one.
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Most electric motor rewinders should be able to tell you if this is feasable. ( replace magnets & glue type )
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Yeah, they are glued in. The 250/400 T/X larger flywheel magnets seems to have been afflicted with dodgy glue or something. I have seen oh, at least 4 or 5 of them broken, yet I have never yet seen a busted small one (all the 175's and 250's up till then shared the smaller stator/flywheel). The bigger magnets are thicker - perhaps some resonance caused cracking?
The flywheel is effectively exactly the same as the small one, the centre being identical, just a few mm larger in diameter, which increased mass by 33%. The matching stator pushed the coils out a few mm to match and for a reason I have not yet fathomed, they rotated the assembly mount points. I had a PE400 engine with the old/small 175 stator and flywheel and that ran!
Luke
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PE250 brakes are 150mm
Is not as simple as replacing the magnets and away you go. They are not what you would call a 'normal magnet' with a N-S pole at each end. Its a lot more complicated than that. Simple way is to use the 77-79 250 or 175 electrics or 80-84 175 electrics, get one out of USA (RS250 will work) * keep in mind many people do not store flywheels correctly so although you may be getting a good looking flywheel the magnets could be weak. Trying to remagnetise them will cost more than a brand new genuine flywheel and may or may not be sucessful and for a couple hundred you can stick an aftermarket German Power Dynamo on there which are a lot better than the original suzuki system ever was.
As for retaining the magnets, you can use extra ahesive around the outside and in between the magnets. Use a strong ahesive such as Sicaflex. Magnets wont fall out then. The orignal glue goes hard and brittle.
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Thanks Luke & Leith,oldfart
I have what looks to be a pretty damn new flywheel and stator that came in a PE175C with bad rear frame mounts that shagged the back of the engine cases.
I pulled the engine apart and it looked to be a recent rebuild as most of the internals were excellent inc crank and rod.
May chase up a set of C cases one day or rebush the 2 mount holes and keep it aside.
I also have a PE175D engine thats rebuildable but has a worn rod and done a bit of work by the looks of it.
Thats the one i just tried the stator and flywheel on this morning,so i'll use that and read up on modifying the plate holes
Cheers...mario
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On the bike again today to have a play with the stator and flywheel off the 82 PE175D parts engine and see if i can get it running on that.
Did a read up on rotating the stator plate 90deg and drilling and slotting new holes in the 175 plate.
First off i put my dial indicator in the head and read the PE250T flywheel marks for TDC.
1st small mark = .070mm BTDC
2nd long mark = 1.04mm BTDC
3rd small mark = 1.40mm BTDC
Then i read the 175 flywheel and found that the case marker does not line up on TDC or the 3 marks on the flywheel.
So i put masking tape around the flywheel and marked off TDC,0.70mm,1.04mm and 1.40mm with a pen.
Timing was off a few mm compared to the 175 scribed marks.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/ign3.jpg)
Above.....The small cutout in the tape is the original 175 scribe marks.
Put the 250 electrics back on to make sure it ran again......no problems ;)
Put the 175 electrics on in the new stator hole position and no go!
Checked for spark and all nice and strong and the 175 coil pulser is definetly in a different postion to the 250 hence moving the stator plate 90 deg.
This bastard's gotta fire....nup no good but has strong spark.
I put the 250 electrics back in JUST to make sure...2 kicks...started and idled.
So i thought bugger it,i will put the 175 electrics back on and put the stator plate in the standard 175 position.
Well fark me...it started 2nd kick :o
Surprised me alright and just to make sure,i put my timing light on and it was idling at 1.5mm BTDC on the new tape lines measured with the dial indicator.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/ign4.jpg)
video....
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/th_PE250034.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/?action=view¤t=PE250034.mp4)
My bit of homework for the day! ;D
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That was my experience with the 400 - the 'small' stator and flywheel dropped in with no alterations. Ran fine.
PE rotor/stator info here:
http://cid-407d7ef0965d3991.office.live.com/self.aspx/Pure%20Enduro/STATORS/ROTOR%5E_MAGNETO.txt
Luke
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Just watch you dont get it running backwards. Thats what happens if you use the 77-79 stator/flywheel on the 80-82 250 if you dont move the slots. You should be able to get the 82-84 175 stator to work on the 250. I know a guy in USA that uses that set up. I think you asked about putting a 250 motor in the 175Z/X/D frame. Answer - yes it can be done (a suzuki dealer used to do it bakc in 83/84) and would be less work than your PE 175 in the water cooled RM frame.
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Ahh ok...Luke and Leith.
I thought that all 175 stator plates had to be rotated and slotted and i forgot to read the last part of your document Luke ;D
Leith,yep i am using the PE175D set-up and as i found out ::) bolt in as is,still it was good to know that the timing marks of the 175 and 250 flywheel differ and the 175 does not line up with the little cast mark on the case.
I could imagine i would have had head aches trying to time it with the timing light.
I agree Leith,the 250 would fit into the PE floater much easier than the RM W/C frame.
I'll take measurements when it comes out,but its staying as a PE250T.
The frame looks quite good,but noticed swingarm bushes will need doing.
Did you ever work out an alternative for the shock eye bushes?
Mine will need work.
Anyway...thanks again.
mario
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You mean the shock mounts on the standard shocks.....well
yes the 10mm ID heim bearings in the right hand shock are available. There is 2 c-clips (one each side) that you need to take out first, then the bearing presses out.
I got 2 types here. Both bearings are Askubal/ASK (same brand Ohlins uses )
GE10-UK
GE10-TGR
Both are 19 OD x 10 ID x 9 inner ball width x 6 outer race width
The UK version is the cheaper one. It is maintenance free with PTFE/Teflon lined race requiring no lubrication
The TGR version is more expensive. Its is maintenance free but is also constructed from stainless steel so thats why it costs much more.
There would be other brands other than ASK that make them eg SKF, INA etc but at the time i could only find them in ASK brand with out spending hours and hours, many emails/phone calls etc. I ordered them directly off the ASK website.
Most bearing shops should recognise the GE10UK number. The GE -UK series is common.
The RHS shock uses the bonded rubber bushes. I have found one place that has them but there would be more i reckon.
They are 23mm OD with 10mm ID (gets reduced to 8mm with the spacers) Basically KYB snowmobile shocks use the same rubber bush but you got to cut them a bit shorter.
Also this place here http://www.whiteline.com.au/ has a pretty big range of chassis bushes, if you download their catalogue you can see what sizes they got. There might be something in there. Suzuki only put rubber bushes in the right shock for cost cutting exercise, if your gonna do serious riding i would probably fit heims on the rhs too. I would probably bore out the eyes 1mm and fit 24mm OD KYB heim bearings.
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Thank you very much Leith,that helps me alot.
cheers....mario
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Just watch you dont get it running backwards. Thats what happens if you use the 77-79 stator/flywheel on the 80-82 250 if you dont move the slots. You should be able to get the 82-84 175 stator to work on the 250. I know a guy in USA that uses that set up. I think you asked about putting a 250 motor in the 175Z/X/D frame. Answer - yes it can be done (a suzuki dealer used to do it bakc in 83/84) and would be less work than your PE 175 in the water cooled RM frame.
Leith, this has always puzzled me. I know you said it ran backwards but... are you certain? The PE250N generally fired at around the same point as the 175's. If you ever get a chance to repeat, I would love to see the markers as Mario has done marking TDC .
PE175C 18.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE175N 20.5 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE175T 17.5 BTDC @ 8000 rpm
PE175X 17.5 BTDC @ 8000 rpm
PE175Z 19.5 BTDC @ 8000 rpm
PE175D 19.5 BTDC @ 8000 rpm
PE250B 23.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE250N 18.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE250T 13.5 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE250X 13.5 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE250Z 13.5 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE400T 17.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE400X 17.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
PE400Z 17.0 BTDC @ 6000 rpm
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Yep just ask suzuki400 (Rod). Bike took off backwards :o Had a 78/79 250 stator on a 80/81 250 and it was only till I or someone told him to move the slots that the prob was fixed.
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Luke....is this any good to you?
TOP = PE175D f/wheel
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe175dflywheelontope250tmarked.jpg)
BOTTOM = PE175C f/wheel
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe175cflywheelontope250tmarked.jpg)
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Would any of you kind PE TX owners be able to take a pic of the 2 battery brackets/tabs that come off the frame and if possible a measurement to the holes from the frame tube and between the 2 holes.
Mine have been cut off on the 250T,and while i'm stripping the frame,i wouldn't mind putting them back on.
The more pics the better....also pics of the rear indicator tabs....mines cut off too :'(
Thanks and Merry Xmas...mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE175XBatterybox2.jpg)
Pic courtesy of Luke's site ;D
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If you log onto the PE forum, in the files section there is full CAD drawings for the battery holder i spent many hours measuring up. if you go to those you should find the bolt hole spacing for the brackets on those.
I will also try and remember to measure where the lugs sit on the frame for you.
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Thanks Leith,i forgot to look there.
I don't know why people cut them off.They are not in the way.
I can understand the blinker mounts as they could slice you.
I used to run ALL my road gear on my 175X in the bush and never had a problem.
Thanks again ;)
Cheers mario
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PE250 time.....
Since i don't have the battery frame tabs at the moment or even the battery box and hardly ever see them come up for sale,I had a bit of spare time today and checked out Leiths CAD drawings for the PE battery box.
I had some left over sheet metal of the right thickness from my old vulcan wall heater :D.my tin snips,files,vice and drill.
I used my tig for the spot welds.
I still need to make the tab on the back where the drain/vent tube goes and give it a clean up of the spot welds and corners and a paint job.
Drawings were easy to follow and made sense...to me :P
Its not a masterpiece,but painted up i'll be pretty happy with the result.
A big thank you to Leith and the PE group!
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/batt2.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/batt.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/bat4.jpg)
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Thats pretty good Mario, I'd be more than happy with that, your frame tabs should be easy peassy after that.
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Thanks Davey,the frame has a bottom tab welded to it but its just a piece metal that was welded on at some stage.
I'll have to sit the engine back in and check how much room there is.
Will also need to chase a pic of what the tabs looks like (rough idea of the bottom one going by that pic)
but want to know inboard specs...etc
Cheers...Mario
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That battery box is a ripper Mario I do work on vulcans etc etc but wouldn't think of cutting them up to make things. :)
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Lol...its ok Michael,the heater was sitting in the back yard for ages and on the next hard rubbish day i pulled it apart for the sheet of gal and left over bits of 1.2mm 1.6mm metal ;)just the right thickness specified on the CAD drawings.
I'm bad like that as i "know" i could make use of it later on...as i just did ;D
cheers...mario
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Mario,
My 1980 PE250 still has the brackets installed. Your welcome to borrow the bike at any time to pattern off.
I do need to drag it out at some point and repair the side stand attachment. I have been ratting through all the bits and pieces for you and found whats left of the rear muffler.
Rod
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Rod,i'll tee up a day/night with you and i'll bring my camera and take some measurements and go from there.
Thanks again.....Mario
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Have any of you PE owners bought seatcovers from the US and had any fitment issues?
Can't remember if i read on here about the shape of the US seats to ours....something like that.
Just browsing DC's PE250T seat covers and the front of the seat in the pic "looks" narrower to the square..ish PE look.
Could be me as i'm about to splurge on the full plastics kit and maybe the seat cover since our $ is $1.01
Genuine sidecovers and front guard still available NOS.....but at $80.00 each for the covers and $130+ for the front guard,rear guard...dream on ::) i don't want this bike sitting in the lounge room like my RM125C.
cheers Mario
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I have bought them from that sme bike and had no issues the right shape and size and they are NZ based.
I suspect that dc would get them from some one else any way probably vintage suzuki thanks Michael.
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Thanks Michael,i've seen the NZ ones.
I've had no problems whatsoever with the DC and V/suzuki covers.
May just get the plastics kit off DC and the cover off the NZ supplier.
My PE175D has a yanky seatcover from the previous owner and the fit is wrong.
Probably ordered the wrong model...who knows ???
Thanks again...mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE-1.jpg)
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Perhaps wrong model Mario ceet made aftermarket covers for a while like the one on your 175 I have got two of the nz ones on seats one is stock one is gripper down the centre both fitted fine.
I think I will have some black outs made up they look good on the yellow guards I have got a box of nos pe guards in my room sidecovers and front guards but I want some headlights and rear guards and a tank don't think it will happen some how though. :)
I have been trying to get a collection of pe400 nos stuff for my 1982 pe400 but it is pretty hard and not alot of stuff around atleast you can get the bolts and other small parts. :)
I have a few pe's now though with the cracked rims.
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After having had enough of sugar soaping the walls....i'm back on the PE ;)
This frame whilst in very good knick had the battery,rear indicators,and rear brake light switch bracket all cut off and ground back.
I made up the indicator tangs trying to copy the original look.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250ind.jpg)
With the help of Bahnzy (thanks Rod)letting me measure his PE's battery brackets and once again "trying" to copy the original look,i got it done ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250bat2.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250bat1.jpg)
Next job on the to do list is the brake switch and one of the broken engine mounts.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250brake.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250frame.jpg)
Till next time......
cheers Mario
P.S....Rod,i found that RM muffler hanger for your RM125F
I'll drop it around sometime this week.
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just a few little things to fix.
ffs - all right, but apart from the sanitation, medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads... !!
looking good ;)
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Mario, you'll need to roughen up the weld, add a little spatter and stick on a few 5mm long bits of mig wire for that factory fresh look ;D
how did you strip the paint off the frame btw? doesn't look blasted but it is super clean ;)
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Hi Doc,yeah the Suzuki welds continued on this frame and i keep looking back if someone has gone over them but they are the original ones :
As for my ones,i try and get that bead going and half way through my hand moves and stuffs it up and go over it.I actually get worse the more i do it.
One day i need to make a frame holder that rotates at all angles as i sometimes make a contortionist look normal.
As for the frame,i used the non recommended heat gun and scraper/wire brush method.
An hour here and there and i'm nearly done as most blasters are closed.
I said to myself..this is a rider and i'll just paint it,but i get carried away.
At the moment every hour its....wash walls - work on PE - patch walls - work on Monaro - wash another wall - sand wall - vacuum - work on PE etc etc
I'm looking foward to going back to work at this rate ;D
Just welded a new bottom mount a few minutes ago and need to do the brake switch bracket and the frames good to go.....hmmm paint or powdercoat,paint or powdercoat ;D
Back to work ---------------->
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I vote for the...... powdercoat :)
and I hope the whiskas and fruit salad are'nt because of a lack of sugar soap cleaning ;D
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Seat shapes for all USA modela are the same as ours for each year. Its only UK ones that are a little shorter.
That blue and yellow PE seat cover is aftermarket CEET USA type. i have a few NOS of those for 175's
Sorry, been to busy to measure frame brackets.
I know one guy who had big probs with seat cover from DC plastics. Was almost impossible to fit. They dont allow enough to stretch over and staple. Im pretty sure DC plastics get their covers from a seller on ebay called VMX racing who also has a website or it might be VMR racing???
Ive found the best ones are from Vintage Suzuki although they still are not the right sort of grain, but at least the colour of the logo is right. the NZ ones are too greeny looking because they print the yellow straight onto black instead of white first.
I i definitely recommend paint over powercoat.
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and people question my sanity when I tell them I rub all my frames back to bare metal by hand :D glad to see I'm not the only one and for exactly the same reason ;) I agree with Leith, paint the frame. My TM frame is powder coated and with the little chips and and marks from normal use and maintainance/repairs it now looks pretty shithouse ::) Paint's def the go I reckon ;)
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No problems Leith,you've helped me out with info anyway and thanks for the PE seat cover info too.
I reckon that Ceet cover on my 175 suits the pre floater as its a loose fitting on the rear.
Bahnzy is around block from me and he offered his PE for me to measure.
I had it in mind to paint the frame as like you said Chris,easier to touch up and so on.
Yeah i still do the frames by hand too,but i've been meaning to make a blasting cabinet for ages.
My lounge queen RM125C was blasted and p/coated and looks great..still hasn't fired a shot ::)
I still have a tin of etch primer somewhere and i'll give the PE a going over.(when its ready)
Trailie...those tins were tempting as i've had sfa to eat today and been too lazy to even bother going shopping,but if its a bike part that i need,i'm off like a rocket!
More work to come......
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUZUKI-PE250-C-1979-FLYWHEEL-ROTOR-BRAND-NEW-/300511649846?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f7e3e036
jst reading remembered seeing this on ebay. cheap too.
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I saw that too PEMAN,i'll still be a while off with the engine and sort it out with the 175 electrics when the time comes.
Ok...been hot and slack trying to paint the lounge room (really slack ;D) and decided to get up early on sat' and get the PE250 frame painted up.
Not much to see here except a black frame ::) mixed up some subframe black and gave it a few coats,then left it out in 35+ deg weather we've had for the last few days (sorry to our northern neighbours)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tframe.jpg)
Next up is the swingarm.Its not in bad condition but the bearings have play,the chainguide assembly is missing and the lug for the guide is ground off.
Plus its been modified at the shock mounts(ground to clear shock spring and an extra hole either to lower the bike or whatever)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tswingarma.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tswingarma1.jpg)
The spacers in the swingarm are pitted and galled and bearings average.
These must have been done sometime ago as i think the genuine spacers are stepped,but these spacers are the same size right through and i'll be able to turn them around. $40 US each :o
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tsarmspacer.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tsarmspacer2.jpg)
As luck would have it,I picked up 2 genuine bearings and 2 seals/covers off ebay last week for $40 and saved about $30 ;D
Next up...rear hub and backing plate ::)saw this crack in the backing plate plus the drum is worn
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Thub.jpg)
Its usable if i Tig it up,but have been searching for another hub for the last few weeks.
Found one in the US and been trying to convince the seller i'll pay full price for the Buy Now wheel,but i just want the hub and then post it.
Haven't been able to get a clear answer from him...yes or no...simple!
I was ready to do the bearings in the swingarm last night when i found this PE400T today at a swapmeet.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400T2.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400T1.jpg)
It took me nearly an hour to convince myself "do i need another bloody PE?"
Even though its a dunger,it had parts that i needed...ie good wheels with a good backing plate,untouched swingarm including the chain guide,proper PE brake lever perch/brake switch,PE tool/indicator brackets,PE throttle,decent forks,triples a better seat base bracket etc and he threw in an extra tank,head and another good hub/plate.
Frame is average to useable,engine has comp but no electrics although i stuck my finger in the exh port and felt piston movement/slap,welded gear lever but it does select gears :D
Also picked up 4 Suzuki indicators (2 of them do look like PE,can't remember my originals) and a speedo to make it look PE ish for $25.00 ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tindicators.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE400Tspeedo.jpg)
Anyway more shit in the shed,but i have more parts and less to buy.
cheers....Mario
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Dont get rid of the 400 Mario I know a guy who likes them and collects bits of them I wish I went to that swapmeet I would have been on that like stink on a monkey.
Those indicators do look genuine they made some a/market ones with white plastic the originals were grey plastic I cant tell from the photos if they are white I have two white ones you can have if you are interested. I also have a box full of grey ones but they are keepers. ;)
I better check my brake plates I have never seen on snap I think I may have a spare one in my shed roof if you cant fix that one but the 400 would be the same.
That looks like an rm shock on the back of the 400 too. ;)
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Some genuine ones were a whitey/light grey colour. Luke has some. I got some but they are not exactly real pure white like you say.
RM250 T All Balls swing arm bearing/spacer kit fits the PE. Theres one small mod you need to do though which i think is shortening a spacer or something.
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Ok very light grey white the common grey is distinctive on even faded ones I think your ones there Mario are the more light white/grey.
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The way to tell is looking at the lens. Aftermarket dont have writing on them.
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Leith,those 2 on the right looked PE to me when i saw them (they are a greyish colour)and the other 2 were Suzuki lenses as well but a different body shape but good for the front.I know what the PE speedos and indicators are worth (as you and frosty,Luke would know) and thought it was worth buying them to make it look PEish but i'm not fussed,its more if i can get it looking close enough,i'm happy.
Those spacers in the swingarm will be good if i turn them around.
I checked the PE400 swingarm early on and they are stepped and cannot be reused.
Michael....trust me,whenever a PE400 is around,your name always comes up....lol...like it did today at the s/meet. ;)
What parts are you after?????
cheers...Mario
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Motor and pipe but no drama if you don't want to get rid of them I thought the 250 and 400 swingarm were the same Mario what do you mean by stepped the frames are definetly the same besides numbers and comp plate.
I have one of those speedo's too but it is off a ts or something I think.
Here is a tip too watch the indicator mounts on the back when unloading the bike of a trailer one ripped my dads wedding ring in half a few weeks ago.
if you want those indicators let me know I only have two of the lighter grey ones so I won't be using them they are in my shed somewhere. :)
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There are a lot of Pro’s & Cons with both paint & powder but I’m curious as to why people think you can’t touch up powder.
Its still just paint, just applied in a different way.
Holts make touch up cans for powder coat colours.
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Michael i was talking about the swingarm shaft spacers.
Top one was in the 400 and bottom in the 250.The twofiddy must be aftermarket and at least i can turn the spacers around and be re-used again...not so with the original being stepped.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250sashaft.jpg)
First day at work and back on dayshift after a year.....feel like i hit a brick wall ;D
Had a look at the arms again and convinced on using the 400 arm as the 250 has one of the posts for the chain guide missing as well.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250swingarms.jpg)
Had an reg post card in my front door tonight and went and picked up these ;D
Still be a while before i get to see how they fit, $305.00 to my door from the US in 4 days...can't complain about that and Tom and Don @DC's have been great to deal with.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE250Tplastics.jpg)
Michael i don't know when i'll get to pull the engine down and see what its like,but i'll let you know.
The pipe is rooted at the bottom section and someone has somehow welded the header section when the stinger was outside the frame instead of it snaking through the frame like it should.
I just moved the pipe around for the photo ;D.
The chambers been cut n shut and it rattles too with pop rivets...go figure.
As for the indicator mounts...yeah PE's are well known to slash a bit of skin,even ADB mag used to say cut them off.
Here i am welding them back on! :P
Thats it! Did bugger all tonight and need to get my dayshift mojo back ;D
Cheers Mario
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Interested to see how you find your dc stuff for a bike to be ridden I think they would be great f/glass busts if you have a stack and originals are too hard to get you can get sidecovers and front guards but you still need all the others and you don't want a two tone yellow bike.
I have been collecting lots of 400 parts Mario but the pipe and barrels/motors are hard to get a hold of if you want to sell any bits after you part it let me know because I am likely to have most other bits somewhere in my shed.
Also on another recomendation I ran an iridium in my 400T and with a noticable difference not power wise but starts first kicks and didn't seem to want to foul at any stage they are around $20-25 but if they don't foul like normal ones it saves you buying a heap of normal ones. ;)
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If a plug fouls it doesnt mean its time for a new one. Its just oil/carbon and they can be cleaned ;)
I told you the iridium would promote easier starting :)
Mario, if you need a tail light but dont want to pay for a PE one, just get a suzuki DS tail light They are rubber housed and use the same lens as PE and look almost like a real PE one, close enough that Suzuki USA put them on their bikes for the sales brochure shoots! They cost about $30 or you can find them cheaper on ebay but you gotta watch out for ones with horrible rubber mounts. They only have a single filament globe but with a bit of brain power you can replace the socket with a stop/tail socket out another light so it takes a twin filament globe.
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Yeah I know that you can clean them I reckon I will invest in a tool bag and always carry a spare or too in the back with a plug spanner my mate gave me 20 iridium spark plugs ngk 9's that they used in there go cart for one race and change them out each time so they will be fine.
Also Mario I will get a pic of my works performace shocks built to spec I had cheap ones on there but the works shocks make it ride so well all the difference in handling and if you hit a big bump it doesn't go thud it is great.
My pe400T is sitting in my uncles shed at bonnie doon at the moment I was enjoying riding it but it happened to do both a front tube and fork seals haven't had a problem though for years with it I reckon it knew that I was spending money on it with the new pipe and shocks and some how thought I will get some more new stuff too. ;)
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the Dc plastics look alright. ive just painted all mine up. so see how long it last. looks quite good at the moment... gone a bit over board but meh. she will look shit hot out there going up against all the new bangers. just waiting on some wheels an the pipe an she will be all done. scored all NOS bearing for everthing too... so it should roll nicely... put some more pictures up when it is completly finished. enjoy building her. its all good fun.
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Thanks again Leith,you wouldn't have a pic of one would you buy any chance?
Trying to remember what they looked like and would be interested in one.
PE Man,post up pics of your bike,always good to see others.
Did nothing on the PE tonight...well i looked at the swingarm and all the scratches and gouges and wondered how far am i going to go with this??
I only want to clean the bike up,but a shitty swingarm always make a bike look crappy. So i put it down and did "some" house painting instead ;D
But before that a mate at work has been telling me that he has a PE175 engine that has a new piston,rod and maybe a crank.
No top end,clutch cover or mag covers and has been sitting in his shed for ages in dust and dirt with a dirty rag jammed in it ::)
I have been nagging him for months to bring it in to work and now i'm back on dayshift he finally brought it in.
He thinks its an early 175 an i said maybe.
Got it home and checked it out saw the kick splines with centre bolt...so later model and looked at the eng # PE175 212010....i figure maybe a floater Z model or early D...cant find my PE numbers list.
Yep new rod,0.25 piston and new crank half and also what looks to be new stator and pulsar coils. ;D
it took me 10 minutes to unjam the dirty rag between the crank and rod.
Rod feels great,new shims,but surface rust on the bottom of the crank halves where it had been sitting for god knows how long.
Spun the crank...oh bugger something binding,had a better look.
The new crank half is way out of wack and can see the clearances in the case when turning,also at the mag end.
Damn it,a good back up for the RM175.
I'll find out what he wants for it and hopefully pick it up for bugger all.
It has to come apart anyway with all the crap in it...stay tuned.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peengine1.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peengine2-1.jpg)
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1359.snc4/163145_10150364850480077_790685076_16774142_7501594_n.jpg)
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Very nice PE MAN ;)
Spoke to my mate today about the PE175 engine and the wonky crank and how much he was after.
He said make me an offer and i said,no just tell how much you want.
$20.00.....i couldn't hand over the money quick enough ;D
Pulled it down tonight and internally it is practically new.No wear or marks on the trans gears or shift forks,bearings smooth,seals soft.
Practically no groove marks on the clutch basket at all.
NOS .25 piston,bearings,rod,spacers and 1 crank half.
Electrics...would almost call it brand new.
Anyway,no work on the 250T tonight but these arrived from DT400man in the US (great to deal with)
All NOS parts,front plate for the RM125T,k/start boot,tank strap and tank breather hose clip for the PE250T.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peparts1.jpg)
cheers...Mario
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hehehe nice, love it when you get bargains. the only thing that i havnt had to do yet on mine is the internal. touch wood. it has plenty of compression still as the bloke i bought it off had done it not long before he sold it. had to get a new flywheel as mine disintergrated. my trannys ok at the moment but reckon itll need some TLC soon. have a spare one here. its done it a couple of times when you change into a gear it slips into neutral. hmmmm nice front plate. i ordered one a couple of months ago from the U.S. hasnt arrived yet. spoke to the bloke over there an his sending another one over. love the front race plates on the old RMs
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Seats....This is what came on the PE250T...me thinks RM? Straighter at the rear of seat. No part #
It actually has 2 covers from what i can see,so maybe its an RM cover under it.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peseat2.jpg)
This is what came on the PE400T....angles up at the rear. Part # 40310-81065...doesn't show up on suzu parts.
There are other numbers but is covered by the the front hook mount.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peseat1.jpg)
Another pic of underside
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peseat3.jpg)
Doing a mock up fit of the DC plastics(quite happy with the fit and the rear guard is nice).Since this one is a rider i decided to paint the swingarm and triples silver
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pemockup.jpg)
I had reservations about picking up the PE400T last week at the swapmeet as i looked at it more than a few times trying to convince myself "do i really need this bike? " and nearly walked away from it,but its turning out to be a very handy parts bike for the 250 and has already saved me a few bucks.
Till next time.......
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I think you are right with the seat Mario probably RM I bought a gripper seat cover for one of my pe's it seems very good. :)
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i havent read this thread for a while You have to remind me about the photo
1980
(http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pw-4IicNlX6ydlIEvo0dpKCjNNPxJzfEC0kfA3E3WeCOr95JNF2f5wqQy6NCmFu9OrXrk9UJLogRITWrDT-uGlg/tmodel.jpg?psid=1)
1981 + most 1982, 83 and 84 non Australian models
(http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p7difd4kBhCYsf1V2sj2JqKO4AxYvnZroWGRovxwFO0k6YTDNHjX3IReR_bmyoxEsLLGaGkECrYcvl9k_3VIpng/X%20light.jpg?psid=1)
1982, 1983, 1984 Australian models + France, Belgium 1981 model & South Africa 82/83/84
(http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pt7jftuisD0sKC57UqJD_Ewv50W8FpqEbKoq2RLbnSu3shmaJ5lzR3RtBDFxNV8C0dmeY3FwcTMiISmUpDVfJVg/tails.jpg?psid=1)
1980 onwards DS and 1980-82 RS175/250
(http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1ptzwn8-yZCsVFo6LUUeyBuok3tQdzlajS_slVKdP74L9_PK0de99slWL0BZaiBPhnf1fp5PI0i7IbZenlTbtYqQ/tail%20light.jpg?psid=1) (http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pbwRL8vyz54oyLiNmwviEUT07rlBKmg1S12Fx8TEZvkj08dThDEJY0sSQzKYDOCqFuJFZ8lYqgv8De-_joeBjxQ/tail%203.jpg?psid=1)
(http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1p4MeUZidBt2eFKefT8TK-GKoyw_f_xcmbayDKVhhtIYL7nOB2KAB_o2PKEw-tMTKj7QkRcFKIS1MhWazWMrTg8g/DSDS.jpg?psid=1)
Thankyou Doc for this last photo
Plus there is another PE light not shown which is the 1980 France/Belgium model which is another metal type but a lot different to the one ive shown above.
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Leith is that 1980 light the DS or PE?
I had a quick look on Ebay last week for DS tail lights but came up empty. I need to have a better look.
Did our bikes ie N,T,X have the metal brace under the rear guard?
My PE175D does and sometimes Alpha being US doesn't show our parts.
Michael,i'd say RM too and i'm curious as to what cover is under the PE cover.
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The top light is 1980 PE
The DS/RS light is the last 3 photos and is the one i suggest as a cheap alternative to a PE llight. I will try find one for you on ebay. you can buy them from any Suzuki dealer though. they should be available from Suzuki Aus as we had the DS 80 here up till 2002 or there abouts.
Australian model 82 -84 had the metal brace for the heavier tail light
78/79 models had the tail light built into the rear fender
77 model had the light attached to a folded over bit of rubber attached to the fender
Alpha-Sports is usless for Australian specifc parts. Go to Lukes skydrive Or Fabrices website and download Australian specific parts books
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Sorry Leith,i just read your last post and a big help....as usual and i have an idea what i'm looking for.
Yeah i do use Lukes site as a clearer final reference and should print the pages out so i have them on hand.
I have an old laptop in the shed which i also use but it takes too long to boot up for a 2 sec look,but its handy.
Snuck some parts into work for sandblasting during the week and painted up the muffler bracket,footpegs,and brake lever.
Just doing a trial fit of the bike as i go along and will pull it down again.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pemock.jpg)
Tony T came through with the help of John "searbs" in picking up parts for my PE from Adelaide to Beaufort (vic) and met John this morning...great guy too ;) and a great community here on ozvmx!
Spent a couple of hours in Beaufort with a mate and had a good time chatting with the locals and will be back for a visit.
Got home and went through some extra bits Tony had left over and was rapt to find a kick stand assembly,speedo bracket,brake switch,bits of wiring loom, ALL parts which i really needed,but knew it would be a tough call even seeing those parts.
Thanks to Tony T and John "searbs" making the trip worth a good day ;D
cheers...mario
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Its a super go-slow on the PE at the moment and have been sorting out whats what in my pile of PE parts.
I have been fitting the ''best of the worst" parts to the bike for a trial fit and have been playing with the loom and switch gear.
Question:The front brake lever switch.
I pulled it apart to solder on 2 new wires and i'm trying to work out if i'm missing something here.
I know the lever moves the slide to contact the 2 pins,but what returns the slider back to its "off" position?
I was thinking a spring is missing on either side of the slider but another perch i have is the same and i can't see a mark on anything that shows it having a spring.
cheers...Mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/switch.jpg)
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Mario, that is all there is to it ;) on the other end of what you've pictured is a small tang that hooks into a cast indent in the original lever (the levers kind of have a notched square look around the pivot bolt area). The positive positioning of the switch into the lever notch means the natural cable return replaces any need for spring loading the switch itself.
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Thats what i was thinking Chris and i just checked the PE parts catalogue and seen the cut out on the lever.
What confused me was i have 2 perches that came off 2 different PE's and diff years but had the exact same levers and then remember my PE never had dog leg levers,hollowed out ball ends and waisted/hollowed out blade.
Bugger...i wonder if they still available NOS...if not i might be able to araldite a mould of the pic to the back edge and file it to the same shape as original and use the dog leg levers.
Thanks Chris,that cleared it up.
cheers...Mario
PS...the rm 80 bottom end has moved from the back shed to the garage to give it a quick wipe and weigh...10 kgs
Next is box and Austpost ;)
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Mario I ordered some perches and levers from suzuki for one of my 400's what came is not right the ones that are on the bike have the mirrror mounts and the spot for the brake switch I ordered from america and they probably weren't the same from new.
I haven't checked through suzuki aus maybe they would still be available?
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I might do that Michael,i have 3 of those PE front brake perches but no original lever in any of them.
I might as well get them working and will check with Suzuki Aust.
If not i have a tin of f/glass resin and will mould the back of the lever and file it back to shape to see if i can get it working.
Cheers....Mario
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I'll keep a look out for those dogleg levers or assy's Mario. Never realized they used that type of switch on PE's. TSX has a nifty little bolt on micro switch tucked up underneath. Simple and effective also.
'mental note' dig out PE headlight! ::) I was under there today dragging out the RM50 and never gave it a thought after I banged my head.. >:( I did remember I was after the RM50 cause that was all that stopped me falling over ::) I do it all the time :-\ K2000X ultra kindly sent me a good pipe, mag cover, cylinder and head. The cylinder from Luke is wildly ported so not sure which way to go yet..will start another thread on the topic ;)
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for my 175N, I recall they were TS185 items.
Luke
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Thats right Luke, TS250, 185, TF185, SP370, T500 etc etc they are all the same.
Reproduction suzuki brake light switches are available from www.mcsonline.com.au You will have to look through their online catalogue, find the part number and then call your local dealer or just take a trip and vist them and they will look it up in their catalogue. I can also tell you that these switches are perfectly fine repro parts, even have the right colour wires. MCS also sell the repro of the suzuki brake lever perch for the brake light switch, From memory the clutch side its split perch, but hey who honestly wants non split perches unless they are doing a concourse resto.
Dog legs on PE'S were officiallly used on 82-84 models (same as TS185ER 79 onwards) Also 82-84 had a 2 piece rubber cover to allow quick access to the adjuster a bit like Magura ISDT levers, although its been a while since I’ve looked at the parts books, I think the 2 piece rubber set up may have only been for USA markets???
If you want cheap original genuine PE levers in dogleg or plain blades, just go looking on ebay or Alpha-Sports for NOS suzuki levers from the 70's or any TS185ER and you will find them everywhere. No need to pay the big dollars ordering them from Suzuki Australia for $70 or what ever they cost now. Now I’ve said that supplies will probably dry up now ;D I do know the brake lever assembly I quite expensive for what it is and is only sold complete.
Aftermarket companies have been making repro lever blades for suzukis for years so more often that not a lot of the bikes out there will have these levers and that’s why you can spot differences in the casting a little. The aftermarket ones now usually have brass bushes. Both OEM and the repros brake real easy, but at least the aftermarket blades are cheap. If you don’t like breaks, fit bark busters or fit Magura/Tommaselli/Domino or whatever aftermarket levers that are made from better materials. The mobs in Taiwan making these levers also make ‘forged’ options which are a lot better than the cast levers and OEM levers but they only seem to do them for the late 80’s/early 90’s stuff upwards with disc brakes.
Suzuki have also changed their castings over the years, just little different shapes/cut outs in certain spots, the balls that have bits cut out the bottom etc. I guess they have had many moulds over the years.
You can work out what models use the same levers as the PE's by punching the Australian model part numbers into Zedder cross reference and you will easily see that the PE levers are the same as all sorts of suzukis like GT500's RV125's etc etc
Im not going to do it for you though, Zedder is freely available off Lukes site.
I might do that Michael,i have 3 of those PE front brake perches but no original lever in any of them
MSC and other wholesalers like Cykel have replacement levers that you can use in your original perches. Pretty sure they have dog leg and plain blades, ive ordered them before but i can look it up to be sure. Only got the new MCS book the other week.
Don’t forget ebay though. Theres 1000’s of new/used/nos/repro/aftermarket levers on there for suzukis
Mario I ordered some perches and levers from suzuki for one of my 400's what came is not right the ones that are on the bike have the mirrror mounts and the spot for the brake switch I ordered from america and they probably weren't the same from new.
I haven't checked through suzuki aus maybe they would still be available?
Yeah thats a bit of a stuff up. It pays to check through the scanned parts books first and get the part numbers for the Australian model levers first, then type them into Alpha-sports part number search. USA PE's dont have mirrors or front brake switches. They do have them (the correct AUS PE levers), its just that they are not listed under any PE models. Either do the direct part number search or look up levers for a 78 TS or similar and they should be the same as whats in the Australian model parts drawing. To be sure check with zedder first though, again by direct typing in of the AUS part number and seeing what USA non PE models it matches.
Parts books are on Lukes site. Even if theres no 'PE400' parts book, just download the PE250T parts book. The controls are all the same. Its on Fabrices site also. About 13MB to download but well worth it.
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The front brake switch was used on a lot of the road bikes as well. My 85 Gsxr 750 brake light wasn't working when I got it. A quick search through the old TS 185 bits and there it was.
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I will use the levers on something. ;)
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Thanks everyone
I like the dogleg levers for an easier reach for me
I came up with this tonight,drilled 4x1mm diagonal holes on the rear face of the lever.
I mixed up the resin after Doc's info and my failure to look at the parts catalogue ::)
The back of the lever is semi hollow,that allowed the resin to flow through the holes and fill the hollow area for strength.
I had to go out for a few hours anyway and came home...straight to the shed.....and cut the resin to shape and did the little cutout for the plastic slider.
Put it back together and "pinned" out the wires with my multi meter and it works a treat ;D
I'll keep a look out for the proper levers but this should work fine i think.
Thanks again for your help.
Cheers...mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/brakelever1.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/brakelever4.jpg)
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Update....trial fitting of parts to the PE250T.
Sorted out the brake lever perch switch. ;)
Was ready to fit the front guard a couple of weeks ago and wasn't happy with the header pipe dings which made the exhaust sit slightly forward.
I went to tweak the pipe a little...and i mean little and the seam on the header was so thin it split like a banana!
A few words starting with F could be heard from a distance ;D ....that threw a spanner in the works now.
As luck would have it,another dunger PE250T with a seized piston popped up on my door step and turned out to be a saviour!!
A great pipe with a very solid header pipe,an uncut standard muffler(although with a bigger outlet hole)
a usable plastic chain guard,with the remains of the rubber bit thats unobtainiumable,horn and bracket,the standard PE handlebars,the indicator warning light and bracket for the bars and PE perches,the top PE tool bracket on the forks ALL PE stuff that i really needed.
I also fitted the PE seat cover (did the RM175 at the same time)
Will pull it all down once i have the plastics sorted and in place.
Quite happy with the way its going together,but that common tale of PE tank stickers falling off ain't working for me.
These tank stickers are becoming a nightmare to pull off ::)I hope the new ones last as long as these!
Mind you,my original PE never lost a sticker in 9 years.
Enjoy ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/blaster6.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/blaster8.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/blaster10.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/blaster11.jpg)
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It is looking good Mario I have been moving some of my pe stuff about to our new shed amazing how much you collect will have to try and put some of it back together. :)
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You are not wrong Michael,my 6m x 3m tin shed at the back is F U L L.
See the bench and the door? Thats my work space :D :D :D with me trying to take photos leaning over the munro.
I'd love to build a bigger garage but i don't know how long i want to stay here,thats why i'm painting,just incase i wake up one morning and say i'm outta here!
I feel a garage sale coming soon just so i can get to anything.
The RM125T "may" have to go once the engine is put back together,RM100X frame and s/arm,RM125A frame and s/arm,2 dunger PE175C frames,etc etc
I still have the 2 YZ80's and PE floater to contend with ;D
cheers...mario
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Progress.....I'm slowly getting into the PE wiring and continueing with trial fitting of the best parts that i have.
Measured up the best rear brake hub with a minimum brake drum ID and of course it turned out to have the worst bearings ::) so i had to pop them out and replace them. So thats out of the way.
Are the PE250/400 rear sprockets a universal size or PE specific? I'll need a new one for the rear.
Stayed with same wheels that came on the bike,5.10 on the rear and sorted out the front speedo drive washer from another plate...and then noticed that the rim is flat spotted :D...i will swap to another wheel.
The muffler that came on the last parts bike is stock as a rock with an enlarged outlet hole and weighs as much as a big rock too.I'd say the packing is fully soaked.
A bit of surgery will be required and then repacked.
The hardest part to come will be sorting out the best of the worst PE rear shocks that i have,which is going to be a battle.
I have to chase up a rear light,indicator relay,stickers,battery (there is a dead one on it at the moment for wank value)wire up the indicators,sort the carby and see if it fires up and then take it for a spin.
Pull it down again to paint the hubs,engine,muffler and then another PE250T lives!
Oh yeah...and figure out a way of getting the bike off the stand ;D ;D ;D
Cheers....Mario
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild5.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild4.jpg)
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Looking very good Mario. :)
If you have some spare $ I'd recommend a set of works performance rear shocks I have them on my pe400t so much better to ride I had them make them up they were around the $530 shipped.
They were the best bit I have bought for the pe makes it ride so much better the originals were hopless from new and the cheapies the motor bike shops sell aren't much better, you can always do it down the track I had cheapies on but they were a waste of money I should have bought something decent to begin with, thanks Michael.
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I have to agree with you Michael,if i'm going to keep the bike i might as well spend some money on decent rear shocks.
My original PE175X beast was pretty harsh back then..i was about 66kg in '82...and now i'm 71kg ;D
and i fitted a pair of S&W shocks which suited my weight and felt very good but showed up the front end traits which wasn't too bad.
Damn it! I wish i knew where that bike is today :'(
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PE175X.jpg)
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been thinking about getting something like works or yss frosty. yss have a devision down here at angle vale. got a set of rm shocks rebuilt but think they are still not up to scratch for me. might be up for sale soon.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCOTT-HURRICANE-MOTOCROSS-YELLOW-GRIPS-SUZUKI-RM-RMZ-85-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa73f9897QQitemZ320633542807QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCOTT-HURRICANE-MOTOCROSS-YELLOW-GRIPS-SUZUKI-RM-RMZ-85-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa73f9897QQitemZ320633542807QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
Looking good Mario but you'll be needing these also ;)
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LOL....well spotted Chris.
Except i just bought black grips on saturday whilst enquiring about the PE special tool for my bike.
Would you believe my shop still has an NOS PE250C tool sitting in a cardboard parts box.
No go for the later T onwards tool as they rang me today to say Suzuki Aust and Japan say discontinued and NLA.
Whatever shops around the world that have them,thats it! But thats what i keep hearing.
I rang a few shops after work and all the same story...then i got a bloke who said he'd never heard of the PE special tool,and i laughed and said "too young hey" and he said "yeah,i was only a 2 y'old then."
Oh well i said and then he says,"but my computer shows 1 in stock"
I said can you go get the tool and describe it for me....32mm end,plug socket on the other and a 12mm attachment.
Thats it!! Can i pay over the phone and have it delivered ?????
Sure no problems i'll pack it tomorrow. ;D ;D
It does pay to ring around ;)
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I dealt with Mick hone motorcycles not long ago still in stock on the T model ones I also think that alot of shops think no to old to hard basket on that but they may have just ran out of stock. ???
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Are the PE250/400 rear sprockets a universal size or PE specific?
They are the same, just different number of teeth thats all.
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Sorry Leith,what i meant was are the PE sprockets ID specific to the PE or do other models take the same ID and not make them expensive because they are PE only.
Thanks Mario
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Ok, well NOTHING else fits straight on. They are unique to 80-82 PE250/400 and thats it. I havent bothered investigating what sprockets would fit by maybe just drilling out mounting holes bigger or in a different pattern, there may be an option there but nothign else shows up in the JT catalogue.
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Hey Mario i found a NOS brake lever in the shed, :o straight lever with black ballend
do you still have my number?
cheers
tony
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Thanks Leith,i'll do some homework on the sprockets.
Hi Tony,yep still have your number.
I've gone with the dog leg levers on mine as its better for my bung wrist and now carpel is giving me about 10 mins riding time before numbness sets in :'(
I thought getting old was for old people!
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Mario, I ordered a sprocket through my motorbike shop it wasn't the same as original but it fitted no probs I just bought a nos pe400 one yesterday but it set me back about $110 I figured I definetly needed it where as I think the one I got from the motorbike shop was more like $70 from memory.
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Cool Michael,at least there are aftermarket options i can use.
I'm still a while away before its sprocket and chain time.
cheers..mario
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There definetly are because the standard sprockets were solid sprocket where as the aftermarket ones have all the holes cut in them it wasn't genuine suzuki I got, I went and ordered one from the motor bike shop took about week to get here and bolted straight on. ;)
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i got after market sprocket for mine. off the top of my head i think the brand was supersprox. hoey in sa got it in for me. didnt cost all that much either. front an rear sprockets cost $70, could be less.
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Thanks PE MAN the options are getting better.
I'll look into sooner than i think so i can sort out the chain guide bits on the swingarm etc.
cheers...mario
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Your local shop should be able to get one if they are a Ficeda, Link, Cykel, John Titmans dealer etc but theres plenty on ebay. Afam make them in aluminium Ron Angel Wholesale specially ordered them for me from France. JT sprockets and Talon make PE sprockets too.
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Another update.....
More go slow on the PE as i'm STILL painting the lounge :D (i'd hate to charge myself an hourly rate!)
Almost done with the wiring and just need to finish the speedo light and the turn signal indicator light and then its all good behind the headlight.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild25.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild23.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild24.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild27.jpg)
I'm making up the front indicator brackets at the moment using Leith's CAD drawings and Luke's site(thanks again Leith and Luke).
I picked out the best of my PE shocks and gave them a clean up and paint.
I haven't gone to town on this build as it will be a rider and as long as it looks clean and similar to its original look...i'm happy.
My $5.00 suzuki speedo looks to be dead so i am on the hunt for a TS one if anyone knows of any,give me a yell.
Ebay US has them in MPH as i've been looking for a couple of weeks but obviously i want KPH ;)
I rummaged through my shed at my mum's place and found my original PE175X mirror (not a PE original though,what ever they looked like)so at 28 years,it's found it's way back onto a PE :D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild28.jpg)
The BIGGEST thank you goes to TM Bill for offering an original PE tool without even asking for it.
I'm not sure if he'd like me to mention it but stuff it.....TOP BLOKES on this site deserve the praise and he is one of them,so thank you to TM Bill ;)
I'd do the same for anyone on here.
Mick Hone M/C sold out of their last one about 3 weeks ago but are keeping an eye and ear out for one if they hear of one.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuild20.jpg)
Next on the list is stickers,tail light,indicator relay,speedo,chain and sprockets,fix chain guard,fit guide etc etc etc
cheers...mario
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No updates this time because I've been busy running up and down the highway looking after my mums place and feeding my cats whilst she is O/S and have been really slack on the PE build.
Since i'm there,i have time to go through the shed and found these :D
Funny what you find in sheds......
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pepurchase.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/perego.jpg)
So whoever has got my bike I WANT IT BACK! ;D ;D ;D ;D
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I really wish you luck Mario. One of the reasons I've rarely sold any bike I've ever purchased is the bitter taste of hindsight :D
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Lol yeah Chris,sold the bike in 1991 to buy a Kart and blow my money racing for the next 13 years ;D
Funny thing is i sold it to an auto elec up the road from when i had my mechanical business and he sold it to an apprentice motor mech about a year later.
Roll on nearly 20 years to where i now work and got talking about bikes and what we rode and a workmate said he had an PE175 which he bought off an auto elec back in the day around the corner where my shop was....put 2 and 2 together...that was my bike!
He lost track of it after it was sold...as you do.
I just carry on about where it is today or if its still around,but finding the serial # and engine # adds some spice to it :D
Always interesting to know where things end up.
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Still done very little on my beast and just machining up chain guide rollers and sorting out the stator side of things ie one of the lighting coil windings was broken.
Good ol' Doc kindly donated a rear tail light assembly....so thanks to Chris ;)
Photos later on today.....
Anyways.....spotted this at HBBB and thought this was VERY NICE.
PE250 engined and i reckon it would be a hoot to ride.....Any spare RM250 rollers out there? ;) ;)
As i went with a loop to clear the angled port on my RM125F,this one had roughly half the down tube knotched to clear the header and was very neat.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/2011HBBB087.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/2011HBBB088.jpg)
My mum is going to get a massive downtime bill when she gets back ;D ;D ;D
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As promised.....more photos ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildleft.jpg)
Shame about the dented pipe.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildright.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildrearright.jpg)
Tried a satin finish on the hubs and it looked very flat,so i stayed with gloss for now.
This will be a rider so i'm not fussed.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buiildfrontleft.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildrearleft.jpg)
A BIG thanks to TM Bill for the PE Special tool and a good working speedo to get me out of trouble for now
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildfrontright.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildbars.jpg)
A BIG thanks to Doc for the tail light assembly
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pe250buildseat.jpg)
Still a few more bits to locate but i'm getting there...i think :D
cheers Mario
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Looking great few rare parts on it to nice original kill switch and indicator indicator. ;)
The dent shows it is a rider I dented my header on the 400 riding at benalla not a major drama. :)
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Hi Michael,
Yeah the 2 250's and the 400 all had different parts that i needed and the worst bike in pieces had the battery box and dead battery,speedo bracket,kill button,horn and bracket and indicator indicator :D in the bottom of the box and a very good pipe and muffler but the rest of it looked like hell.
Stoopid me put the indicator globe/holder in a nice safe place so i could repair it at a later date to put back in the holder....i hid it too well :D no idea where i put it or what it looked like...lol.
I'll need a pic of the globe/socket if anyone has one...then i'll know what i'm looking for ;)
I should be able to fire it up during the week but i'll need a gear shift shaft seal first and put some oil in.
Chain and sprockets to be ordered,stickers,a new battery,sort the correct wattage globes and need to know what amp fuse went in it,i can't seem to find what it was.
cheers..Mario
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Gday Mario, I will post a pic later of my indicator indicator so you can see what you are after. ;)
I also was pulling down one of my 400's it was one that I got that appeared to be a rat but on closer inspection it is a nice original base I only wanted it for the frame swingarm and wheels but alot more can be salvaged which is always good.
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Hi Michael,
That would be great,its the 2 wires,socket and globe pic i need,i have the bracket and grommet elbow and lense on the bike.
I have no idea where it is and i turned the shed upside down :D maybe i was dreaming and it didnt have it,but i'm sure i remember pulling it out of the grommet elbow as it had a VERY short length of wires which i knew had to be soldered on...anyways you know what i mean ;D
Do you still need that 400 frame of mine?
cheers...mario
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Yes Mario I am very interested in the frame I couldn't get to Broadford would have loved to.
The globe looks like a little one you'd find in a smalll torch the wires should be green and black the socket had a bit of rubber on it too
heres a few pics. ;)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu283/frostype400/DSC04101.jpg)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu283/frostype400/DSC04100.jpg)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu283/frostype400/DSC04099.jpg)
(http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu283/frostype400/DSC04098.jpg)
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Thanks Michael that clears it up for me and i know what to look for.
I'm 99% sure its around as i also remember the rubber being perished with chopped wires...we'll see :)
400 T Frame and N seat is yours and can meet up oneday ;)
cheers...mario
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If you need any bits pm me I always find pe stuff when I am looking for stuff I have lost and realise how much stuff I have that I don't know I have. :D
I cant remember what the fuse was but I know up the shed I have a few original wiring looms that have the original fuses in them probably blown but I can tell you the amps. ;)
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Update....
I got stuck into the bike yesterday morning to see if i could get it fired up for the first time.
The engine in this bike is out of another that i thought was the better of the 3 i have.
Filled engine with oil,mixed some juice @20:1 and kicked it over.
Wouldn't fire up with the plug it had so i used the one that came with the bike and i know worked after trialling the PE175 ign/stator set up.My 250 f/wheel had done the usual trick of having the magnets let go.
4 or 5 kicks and it fired up with the usual 2stroke sound and plenty of smoke :D and idled pretty much after taking the choke off.
That was all good and even the headlight was working ;D.
Fired it up again for about 1 minute and killed it to go over the timing and tighten f/wheel nut...thats when i could feel a rough sound coming from the crank area as if it was dry...dead sure i mixed my fuel.
Then i rotated the countershaft and it had the same sound :-\.....strange i thought,new oil in there as well.
So this is how the biked looked last night ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine005resize.jpg)
Pulled the engine down this morning and found very fine dirt/sand throughout the bearings...couldn't see it,but i definetly could feel it.
So this is how this engine looked this morning ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine006resize.jpg)
I decided to shelve that engine for now.
Now was the time to check the engine that came in the "bike from hell"
When i got it i was told it sat in a paddock for about a year which didn't worry me.
I couldn't even kick it over and had a quick look at the piston in the exhaust port which looked like it was seized.
Decided to pull it down to see what was salvageable and to my surprise the engine number is 40 units newer than the engine the bike came with,which makes it closer to the frame number :)
Another surprise was that this crapper looks to have done bugger all work in its life.(apart from the well used sprocket :D)
Infact piston was not seized but rusted in the bore from sitting in the paddock.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine007resize.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine009resize.jpg)
After taking the flywheel cover off,which i'd never bothered checking to see what mess was in there when i got the bike as the wiring had been cut everywhere...i found a perfectly clean and new looking flywheel with magnets intact and also the lighting coils and stator/pulsar in very good condition apart from the chopped wiring.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine012resize.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine010resize.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine017resize.jpg)
Even the dowels and studs look clean/newish and pulled the clutch cover off expecting to find water/rust/dirt...nope all good in there too :D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/pebuildengine019resize.jpg)
Cleaned out whatever was in the crankcase and g/box,oiled it up and its all quiet and smooth.
A set of rings and a quick clean in the bore only where the rings were stuck and i might be lucky
to use this engine....
cheers...mario
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Progress.....After a few cold nights in the shed,i was able to get a little bit done on the bike.
I had the clutch cover off on this 2nd engine just to make sure its in useable condition and found it to be spotless inside.
So while the cover was off i did the internal clutch adjustment to spec and put the cover back on.
I also looked at what damage there was to the bore or piston and rings.
All i could find was a bit of rust stains on the bore and the rings stuck in the ring lands of the piston.
A quick clean up of the bore and a spray of crc on the piston to soak.
The rings popped out on its own and i cleaned the lands out.
Checked rind-end gap and that was in spec and put it all together.
Compression came up spot-on but will throw in a set of rings after its all sorted.
The engine went back in a couple of nights ago and then fitted the rest of the stuff back on the bike.
Lubed up the cables and repaired the stator/pulsar wires that were cut off.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PEbuild25-1.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PEbuild26.jpg)
Next up i took Luke's and Leith's advice on possibly making the PE250/400 flywheel magnets survive a longer life.
I used a GM body sealer called "Terolan Hell" (thats all i had )it is used to bond body panels together and flex at the same time.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PEbuild23-1.jpg)
After a bit of ebay hunting i found a PE250 52t rear sprocket for $45.00 delivered.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PEbuild210.jpg)
My best find was with the help of Doc ;) the much talked about PE speedo :-* with bracket @$35.00.
It looks to have had repairs but it does work and i definetly ain't complaining.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/PEbuild29.jpg)
The only missing PE part i can think of is the indicator flasher relay.
Repairs to the plastic chain guard and its almost there.
cheers...mario
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Frosty.... if you have gone to all that trouble of pulling the motor out of bike - removing fly wheel etc .....one would think you would put new bearings thru motor or at least replace the crank seals :o
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I haven't put it back together I need to rebuild the whole bike I will do the motor Stew. ;)
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Ahh....thats a given,new seals went in as they're external on both sides on the PE250/400 so it was a 2 minute job with the cover off and i think it took me longer to type this than to put the seals back in ;D
As for bearings,i've been around engines long enough to know and hear what a bad bearing looks and feels like.
If its a dunger after starting it,i'd be happier knowing that than throwing money into it.
It will all be sorted once its up and running and i'm happy with it.
Tearing it down only takes an hour so i'm not fussed.
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G'day Mario.I gotta pay you a big compliment.
This is one of the most informative threads that I've followed on here;with pics,and information on rebuilding,also parts gathering,and troubleshooting,etc.
Please keep updating,its bloody fascinating.
Cheers,Mark.
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Thanks Mark,its all part of the entertainment on here ;D
It helps me out too as its easier than keeping notes and anyone can chime in on helping out others too.
Plus without the help of Luke's skydrive info and tips from Leith,Luke,Frosty,Doc,and TM Bill its a safe bet we're all in good hands Suzuki wise at least.
I'm sure we all like to read about bikes,but i also like to read about bike builds,shitty,show,or out of left-field...its still worthy of a read to me anyway.
cheers...mario
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thank you for another must see retso, love it keep up the good work
mxfool
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Good stuff Monaro enjoyed every minute of it.
What did you find under the old seat cover?
Have a RM seat on my 78/250 and bought a cover from Thailand .
It hasn,t enough extra on the sides to pull underneath and staple so I am going to have to cut the foam.
My flywheel looks nothing like those ones shown , it has a stainless ring around the outside end of the magnets and there is a clamp plate with one c/sunk screw between two of the magnets forcing the whole lot outwards. This plate also gives a gap which acts as the CDI trigger point and makes the whole unit unbreakable , I am now wondering what it came off.
Part no ( for those interested ) FP6167 * 4192. Made by KOKUSAN Japan.
Cheers
Mike.
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Minor update.....
I had a bit of time on saturday to play with the bike and give it a final check and it fired up within 3 kicks.
Compression is spot on too and being just shy of 5'7,with the PE trait of a high seat height i had to use the stand to give it a good kick :D
One thing i forgot to mention was,when i replaced the crankseals,the RH side seal was almost hanging out.
It looked like it wasn't seated properly as you could see the case mark offset on the outer edge of the seal.
The left side seal from memory cant move out because of the stator plate but the RH seal has nothing to secure the seal from popping out.
I used loctite on the outer edge of the seals for peace of mind.
I'm not sure if it was a common problem for popping seals on the RH side on the RM/PE engines,but it does look easy to do.
Back to the bike.....revving the bike i noticed bits of fibreglass/packing spitting out of the muffler and i knew it will have to be cut apart and repacked as it weighed a ton
when i put it on the bike.
I even had time to go over all the wiring to make sure everything worked.
High beam is blown and stop light was blown,so thats 2 globes to buy.
Horn button was broken inside the switch gear assembly and i disected another PE switch i had to repair it....all good now.
The '"dickhead" award goes to me as well for trying to trace a "fault" with the flasher indicator light.
It would work when indicating right but not when indicating left! ::)
After stripping and checking my wiring against the PE diagram i could not find a problem in the wiring.
Then it dawned on me that after not being able to find the original globe and socket that i "think" i lost,
i fitted an LED that was small enough to fit in the original grommet.
It worked great on the bench and i thought why not add a bit of 21st century bling to a 31 year old bike. ;D
1 week ago i knew that LED's work oneway...so the left indicator would not feed the LED.....as i said...dickhead :P
Thats 2 hours of my life that i will not get back.
Thats about all i did on the bike.
Mike,i haven't pulled the cover off the first seat with 2 covers but i will out of curiousity as i think its an RM seat
The seat i'm using is the correct PE one.
As for your flywheel i think yours is an early 250 one or a 175 one.
Thanks mxfool.
cheers...mario
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Cut the muffler open for sure you get so much more go if you haven't got excess restriction from a blocked muffler I used to have trouble on my original pipe it would always spit oil from the front of the pipe now with a gmc pipe oviously nice and clean it never blows the high temp red I use to seal it. ;)
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Hi Michael,
You are correct as mine is spitting oil at the front flange.
I remember doing my PE175X muffler back in the day and boy what a difference a repacked muffler made on that bike.
Freakin' cold wet nights in the shed at the moment and i'm not getting much done during the week.
I'll be needing a battery too for this bike,plus i've been thinking about getting full rego on it.....i cant remember seeing a PE on the road for a LONG time,apart from mine in the 80's ;D
I still haven't rec regoed the RM175 yet either.....but i have sold my VT c/dore,so i'm down to 3 rego's now.
cheers...mario
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Time for another update......
Bike has been sitting around while i've been getting the RM125T together.
Finally bought a DID o ring chain for it and tidy up a few things on the bike.
Most sticker suppliers sell either the side cover or tank stickers and i'm trying to get the set together.
New globes are yet to be fitted as the usual high beam and tail are blown and will sus them out.
I took a video of its first ride in my back yard and it fires up in a few kicks cold and 1 or 2 hot and idles ok too.
Engine sounds nice and gave me a little surprise at the end of the video :D
Another PE lives!
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/th_PE1stride.jpg) (http://s199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/?action=view¤t=PE1stride.mp4)
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I finally got the chance to see what was under the PE seat cover i got on the PE250T ;D
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/peseat1-1.jpg)
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa250/hjcoupe/perm400seat.jpg)