OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Ji Gantor on July 11, 2010, 07:38:40 am
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There are plenty of solutions to this problem, this is what I have done.
After all the time effort and tools required I recommend you give GMC a call and purchase a set.
Geoff makes some really nice ones and sells them for a good price.
But if you want to have a go yourself good luck.
The foot pegs on some classic dirt bikes are no more than a pipe with 3 deposits of weld while others are small in surface area. The ones I am improving are 30mm wide x 67mm long. Modern pegs are 50mm wide x 80mm long.
This helps spread the load from your body through your foot when jumping. Also the larger surface area gives better grip in wet conditions.
I am using 304 stainless steel because it is easier to photograph.
Most foot pegs are made from 3mm thick mild steel.
Ji
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I have sampled all the foot pegs I have to find the best serration pattern.
They are
4mm with 8mm pitch,
5mm with 10mm pitch and
7mm with a 12mm pitch.
I have decided to use 5mm diameter holes 10mm a part.
This gives a fear amount of metal in the contact area.
Mark up the metal ready for cutting.
I could have scribed the lines but that is hard to photograph.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg2.jpg)
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Place marked up metal plate into a drill press and start drilling.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg3.jpg)
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After all the holes are drilled take a hacksaw, band saw or grinder and cut to shape.
The serrations will take shape.
After the teeth have been cut use a file to form the serrations to your personnel requirements.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg4.jpg)
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Place serrated metal plate into a bar bender or a length of pipe into a vice.
Adjust until positioned correctly.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg5.jpg)
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Once bent to required shape cut to length and fix to peg.
With a file level serrations and round to requirements.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg6.jpg)
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This serration pattern gives good grip.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg7.jpg)
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Good subject Ji but perhaps it'd be a good idea to show how to bend the metal using a pipe in a vice for those readers who aren't lucky enough to own a bar bender, which I'd assume would be most of us. And before another bun fight starts mate, this isn't a pisstake, it's just a friendly suggestion ;D.
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Hi Firko,
This is a great suggestion.
I did show how to bend plate in a vice with two sections of pipe on another thread.
If I have time I will find the link.
Ji
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If its done right both peg wideners should look the same.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg8.jpg)
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I get the curve right then leave the legs pointing slightly inwards.
This helps when positioning on the peg for fixing.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Peg9.jpg)
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To bend plate with only a vice and a pair of vice grips.
Get two sections of pipe that are the same diameter as the curve you desire.
Place the two pipes into the vice and clamp the plate to one of them with the vice grips.
Because this is only 3mm thick plate use your hands to bend the plate around the other pipe.
Keep it all tight and keeping going in one motion until the curve is formed.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Barbender4a.jpg)
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Lets be honest though, give Geoff Morris a call or a PM and buy a set off Geoff he is selling them cheaper than you can make them and the quality is really cool.
The only reason you would make your own is because you can not afford $30.00 or you want to get a specific serration pattern or you just want to have a go at it yourself.
I wanted to make these wideners out of Ti but 3mm plate is hard to get I have 1.6mm and 5mm.
1.6 would be so thin it would act like a knife into your boot and the 5mm is just overkill.
I did some calcs on Al and it won't take the load.
S/S is to hard to fix to the old foot pegs so good old mild steel or low carbon steel is the way to go.
Ji
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I wanted to make these wideners out of Ti
Naughty boy. I think you're being a little cheeky Ji. It worked....I bit :D
is to hard to fix to the old foot pegs so good old mild steel or low carbon steel is the way to go.
Presuming you're TIG welding the wideners to the old pegs, why is Stainless steel difficult to use?
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No that was not bait.
I did intend to do them out of Ti but can not get 3mm plate.
Ji
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Well for those that have worked S/S you will know that you require HSS drill bits minimum I used cobalt.
Cutting the stuff is not easy with a hacksaw.
And if the average guy does not have access to a TIG welder its game over.
Mild steel is the best.
Chrome molly would work okay but again hard to get and not cheap.
Ji
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You know, I am not sure if you think that most people on this forum are that stupid that we should require lessons on how to make up wider footpegs. All the people I know on this site have the common sense and the ability to make and probably already have made them over their life time before GMC started making them.
So are you taking the piss or placing yourself above us mere mortals who have been around this game for so long we have forgotten more than you will ever know
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Mate I am watching alot of things Ji posts even though I may not reply I have never made footpeg wideners he's not making you look if you don't want to. People on here would have common sense but that doesn't mean they know how to do everything I doubt Ji would know how to make a rocket ship maybe he could. ;)
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Hi NipplesX2,
Are you Paul Chippendale?
Ji
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Hi Paul,
No I am not taking the P...
No I am not putting myself above anyone here.
I said there are heaps of ways to make foot peg wideners I also stated that this is how I made some.
Not trying to force anyone to follow my lead just trying to show that it is not that hard to do.
Also for those that don't want to make them just buy them from GMC or even Geoff Ballard. GB sells them for $40.00.
If you are Paul Chippendale I am sorry my posts affend you.
Thanks again for the Maico triple clamp you gave me at CD6.
I am not trying to reinvent the wheel just trying to help those that are new to VMX and this forum. There are new players every 6 months and they need a little help, friendship and guidance.
For the members that have been here or in VMX for years I do agree that they will know more than I do. I just wish they would post some how to stuff which is what I am interested in.
Ji
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i trip over 3mm plate evreyday at work but i wouldn't piss on it if it was a footpeg.
stick with the stainless.
all that hole drilling made me dizzy ji.
i just bend some 3mm stainless around a bit of pipe in the vice then after i've welded it to the origional footpeg i nick some grooves in it with the good old angle grinder.
i don't like the idea of drilling holes in stainless let alone that many.
if you do drill S.S. then a slow drill speed is optimal. ;)
i weld mine with the MIG using 309 wire.
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That is a great add to this topic Vandy.
I did not mean that S/S can not be welded to mild steel by a MIG.
It can but to purchase a roll of S/S wire is expensive.
I have heard of people MIG welding S/S to mild steel with mild steel wire and having no problems.
I don't know how that would work long term.
Could even start to rust badly.
Yes I didn't want to drill all them holes either. I usually break drill bits drilling S/S. I can't tell you how many thread taps I have seen break in S/S.
The grinder would be a lot faster.
Ji
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I'll get howled down for daring to use anything Chinese on my bikes but I don't care. A neater, cheaper lazy boy alternative to rooting around with scrap steel, grinders and drills is to buy a nice set of $15forged stainless steel Chinese pitbike footpegs off eBay. As I exclusively revealed a few months ago, a friend actually visited the distributor in China and noted that the only difference between these and the pegs you'll pay $199+ for from the cool aftermarket shops is the packaging. I've got these on most of my bikes and they are not only solid and well designed, they also look period enough to pass scrutiny from the Period Police (of which I'm a serving member).
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/%21BrzkE%21gBGk%7E%24%28KGrHqEOKjkEvNoe3MC5BL1P%2CdtDdw%7E%7E_12.JPG)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pitbike-thumpstar-H-DUTY-FOOTPEGS-/380227978875?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58875a867b#ht_500wt_849 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pitbike-thumpstar-H-DUTY-FOOTPEGS-/380227978875?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58875a867b#ht_500wt_849)
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nipples x2 if its you paul you will need to learn to make a list of rules for peg making like Ji
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Hey Firko,
What bikes do they fit?
Ji
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These particular pegs fit my Cheney (i have to drill the hole out a little) and on the Metisse and B&S TM400 I used Chinese pegs to suit an RM125 but unfortunately I can't remember what model....something latish. I think Doc may have bought similar pegs a while ago so maybe he knows. I'll run some photos off tomorrow.
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Sounds great,
Are they really pre75 legal?
They do look a bit thin on the side plates but if they work, cool
Ji
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Solid as a rock...they're forged stainless steel, what do you expect to hit with them anyway? Why wouldn't they be legal for pre '75? I think you may sometimes confuse what's rulebook legal and what's aesthetically acceptable......they're two different things. These pegs are legal because there's nothing in the rules to tell you what pegs you can or can't use. I also think these particular pegs fit in with the aesthetics of the period of the bike but I'd think that the pegs below don't fit those period aesthetics but are still legal by the book. They're just wrong for vintage bikes. I bought a set but they looked dumb so I gave them to a mate to put on his late model.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/Rocstompa-foot-peg.jpg)
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I agree with you there Firko, annodized bits on old bikes look silly if you check out some of the "trick yz's" etc in the US they just appear so overdone there is nothing wrong with alot of period looking parts they perform just as good or better than alot of bling bits.
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http://www.ballards.cc/catalogue-2010 (http://www.ballards.cc/catalogue-2010)
Check Page 40 ;D
Re chinese pit bike pegs, if i was never going to stand up or jump the bike then maybe i'd think about using them otherwise not a hope in hell. Having come off a jump with a set of pivot pegs and snapped the pivot bolt on the landing, there is no way i'd trust some muk-metal pegs, its real ordinary what happens when your foot comes off, or brakes a peg when you least expect it to happen.
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if it's welded with a stick welder and full of birdshit then it looks pre~75 :D
anything else is modern :D
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http://www.ballards.cc/catalogue-2010 (http://www.ballards.cc/catalogue-2010)
Check Page 40 ;D
Re chinese pit bike pegs, if i was never going to stand up or jump the bike then maybe i'd think about using them otherwise not a hope in hell. Having come off a jump with a set of pivot pegs and snapped the pivot bolt on the landing, there is no way i'd trust some muk-metal pegs, its real ordinary what happens when your foot comes off, or brakes a peg when you least expect it to happen.
I ran Pivot pegs . They had a design floor in the beginning . I ran a set as well that let go on my modern when they first came out. Could have been a big disaster.Gave the back a bit of a tweek.
Re Chinese pegs, there are good and bad. The bad are cast shit and the good are the stainless type. I have a set on my cr125ra and have complete confidence in them. They are heaps stronger than the piddlely standard steel ones that broke.
I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days.
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I'll get howled down for daring to use anything Chinese on my bikes but I don't care. A neater, cheaper lazy boy alternative to rooting around with scrap steel, grinders and drills is to buy a nice set of $15forged stainless steel Chinese pitbike footpegs off eBay. As I exclusively revealed a few months ago, a friend actually visited the distributor in China and noted that the only difference between these and the pegs you'll pay $199+ for from the cool aftermarket shops is the packaging. I've got these on most of my bikes and they are not only solid and well designed, they also look period enough to pass scrutiny from the Period Police (of which I'm a serving member).
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/%21BrzkE%21gBGk%7E%24%28KGrHqEOKjkEvNoe3MC5BL1P%2CdtDdw%7E%7E_12.JPG)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pitbike-thumpstar-H-DUTY-FOOTPEGS-/380227978875?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58875a867b#ht_500wt_849 (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pitbike-thumpstar-H-DUTY-FOOTPEGS-/380227978875?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58875a867b#ht_500wt_849)
hey i bought a set of these, free postage too, but i never go any pins or return springd.. dam i got jipped :O)
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That is a great add to this topic Vandy.
I did not mean that S/S can not be welded to mild steel by a MIG.
It can but to purchase a roll of S/S wire is expensive.
I have heard of people MIG welding S/S to mild steel with mild steel wire and having no problems.
I don't know how that would work long term.
Could even start to rust badly.
Stainless rods in the stick welder works fine
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I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days.
get away from the TV Brad and get that boot to grip that footpeg :D
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Well for those that have worked S/S you will know that you require HSS drill bits minimum I used cobalt.
Cutting the stuff is not easy with a hacksaw.
And if the average guy does not have access to a TIG welder its game over.
Mild steel is the best.
Chrome molly would work okay but again hard to get and not cheap.
Ji
Ji stainless requires a 132deg drill point very slow speed and flood with coolant cobalt is only really needed with 112deg drill points. Even easier is just go to a water jet cutter and say here do this min charge will be $100 or so but you will get a lot cut for that(5 sets maybe)
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I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days.
get away from the TV Brad and get that boot to grip that footpeg :D
I get it :D :D ( not as often these days ::) )
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Hi Yamaico,
Yes a stick welder works okay too.
The only thing with stick is it is hard to get it into the confined space to weld the foot peg widener on.
Ji
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Hi Lozza,
Yep water jet would be better.
I still used a slow speed and coolant with the cobalt bit.
Just habit I guess.
Ji
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The only thing with stick is it is hard to get it into the confined space to weld the foot peg widener on
Not if you know how to weld properly. In fact, a stick electrode has more chance of getting into those pesky tight spots than a TIG or MIG nozzle.
Re Chinese pegs, there are good and bad. The bad are cast shit and the good are the stainless type
Absolutely....but I've been pretty specific here...I only recommend the forged stainless steel pegs. While the cast iron pegs look pretty neat(see below on my under construction Metisse , I share Bahnsys worries of one breaking and wouldn't trust them. His bad situation with a pivot bolt breaking on his pivot pegs however is a different thing to what we're discussing here. I've also seen a near disaster with a pivot peg which put me off them. They were a little to gimmicky for my liking.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/maico%20metisse%20011.jpg)
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I am sure they could be Oxy welded too.
Ji
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(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/maico%20metisse%20011.jpg)
Watch out Firko, somebody left your fridge door open…
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Just a tip when welding.
If the front plastic lens of your welding helmet gets splatted up bad remove it and clean in, then get some car polish and polish the spatter off.
The polish does leave small scratches but you don't seem to notice them because the lens is so close to your eyes.
The lens is 100% UV proof, I don't know if the lense has a coating that may be removed by the polishing, check with helmet manufacturer.
The best option is to change the lens with a new one but if you are caught out this works pretty well.
Ji
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Hel1.jpg)
(http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww268/Jigantor1963/Hel2.jpg)
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Watch out Firko, somebody left your fridge door open…
Incorrect my friend. No environmentally aware vintage fan would be so slack as to leace the 'fridge door open. The door you can see id attached to the locker holding my mega dollar stash of forks and triple clamps.
For future reference this is my fridge. ;D(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/WKYFH-fridge2.jpg)
I am sure they could be Oxy welded too
Do you mean welded or brazed? If you mean Oxy welded, you'd have to pretty confident in your ability and even then I wouldn't want to rely on the peg. You seem to have dismissed stick welding but Yamaico is spot on with his staino/stick method, I reckon it'd be the best method for this application.
If the front plastic lens of your welding helmet gets splatted up bad remove it and clean in, then get some car polish and polish the spatter off.
Chippy might have something to say about this one....you're stating the bloody obvious here mate. But if you're fair dinkum, forget car polish and use soap and water..
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Here we go again.
I said that stick would work fine after Yamaico brought it up.
The spatter on the lens is burnt into the lens, no soap and water will bring it off.
I suggested soap and water to remove any large particles that may scratch the lens when polishing.
If it is so obvious than why do they sell so many replacement lenses?
Ji
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Here we go, here we go, here we go......
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If it is so obvious than why do they sell so many replacement lenses?
for the same reason they sell so many tyres.
cause everyone wants your money.
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Here we go, here we go, here we go......
"Your going home in the back of an ambulance" --- * clap.. clap..... ..clap clap clap
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While I am aware that most Aus and NZ VMX ers are typically more competent than their US counterparts-IMO these types of topics with photos still have merit. As a Yank, this is the most VMX tech I see outside of my own shed. I enjoy these things-and in fact it motivated me to fab up a cobbly cable saver for the 390 Husky the other day. So, thanks again for all the tech contributions here.
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Has any one tried silicon spray on the new lens ? pancho
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G'day Ji, just like to say, I thoroughly enjoy your how to articles. They are the seeds for self reliance and imagination. I also appreciate the time and effort you take to present them. Cheers mate.
Kitakitsune.