OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: DJRacing on April 25, 2010, 07:50:46 am
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(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/JohnnyOld2010245.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/JohnnyOld2010246.jpg)
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/JohnnyOld2010247.jpg)
isnt that clutch mech great.
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Presumably there's a CAD file in existance for that?
If the owner of said CAD file started to produce them at a vaguely sensible price, then I'm sure they'd become very popular very quickly!
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I think he does.
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nice piece o work ,
but some scrutineers will knock back the lack of sprocket cover,
so perhaps he could include some lugs for mounting such.
Cheers
Noel
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Whats the purpose of the M4 capscrew on the inside below the mechanism?
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There's a commercially available clutch actuator that's very similar to that one. I've seen them for sale on the Swapmeet with a website link but unfortunately didn't save it because of the same reason Noel spotted, the lack of sprocket cover.....
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Sprocket cover is not required, a it is inwards of clutch arm.
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Old fart, that is why I used the word "some"
that bike could be knocked backed or passed on any given day depending on the attitude of scrutineer,
that the original bike did not have a sprocket cover does not cut it these days.
sorry for thread Hijack
cheers
Noel
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Sprocket cover is not required, a it is inwards of clutch arm.
With respect Stuart, if I was scrutineering that bike at a national level competition I'd have no option but to knock it back on the pretense that I'd be able to get my finger/toe into the chain and sprocket area. Are you there Dave?
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Sprocket cover is not required, a it is inwards of clutch arm.
With respect Stuart, if I was scrutineering that bike at a national level competition I'd have no option but to knock it back on the pretense that I'd be able to get my finger/toe into the chain and sprocket area. Are you there Dave?
i'm not Dave but Ditto to what Firko said.
the gap between/from the sprocket to the swingarm pivot is too far.
sorry early YZ fans....
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It's suposed to have a return spring there. Hes right about the sprocket cover, I've got a poxy peice of alloy plate there to keep the nazi's at bay, got me rooted why you have to have a sprocket cover on the engine but the rear sprocket and wheel is I guess perfectly safe?...one of those little mistereys. Oopps, shouldnt have said that,now the Suzuki nutters will make this a 25 page nightmare....sorry guy's and Allison.
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(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2007-6/1264741/IMG_8042%20clutch.JPG)
I've got this absolute lump of plate there to get through scrutineering. There is a NOS clutch cover on ebay at the moment - no fittings, no push rod, nothing else but the cover (as in above) sittting at $499USD. If these were made at a reasonable price I'd have one?
cheers
Rossco
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it's crazy how expensive they can be Rossco.
the RT/DT1,2,3 covers bolt straight on and offer good coverage of the sprocket but loose that YZed WOW! factor.
crazy really.....
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If you go sticking your fingers into the spocket you deserve to get bitten, next your'll need exhaust wrap or shields covering chambers?
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If you go sticking your fingers into the spocket you deserve to get bitten,
Laws of natural selection, stupid people will hurt them selves
next your'll need exhaust wrap or shields covering chambers?
In this PC, OHS controlled world I wouldn't even suggest that in fun DJ!
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I'm using DT250/360MX 'no name'* outer cases including the clutch activator/chain cover on the RT1 engine in the Cheney project. They're slightly easier to find and bucketloads cheaper than YZA/Bs pissy little cover plus you don't need to make up a bodgy looking sprocket cover.
*Socalled because they're plain with no Yamaha branding anywhere.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/ebay%20115.jpg)
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Hey Mark,any chance you could put up a pic of the air box that appears in your post?
Like to get some ideas for an air box I need to build.
Cheers,Mark.
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I'm using DT250/360MX 'no name'* outer cases including the clutch activator/chain cover on the RT1 engine in the Cheney project. They're slightly easier to find and bucketloads cheaper than YZA/Bs pissy little cover plus you don't need to make up a bodgy looking sprocket cover.
*Socalled because they're plain with no Yamaha branding anywhere.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/ebay%20115.jpg)
Firko, I'm sorry to say that any self respecting yamaha YZ-A or B owner would rather have their 'pissy' little genuine clutch activator cover than a cheap run of the mill DT cover even if its got a spocket cover built in. ;)
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Talking about dodgy, what sort of head is on that Mark?
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DT-MX bits are pretty cool in their own right.
DT1 parts for the (price) win.
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Talking about dodgy, what sort of head is on that Mark?
Thats an ACK head John...The fugly thing was a good idea at the time but I now hate it. It's to be repaced with an RT2MX head as soon as I can find one. Because I'm running a modified YZ360A Pro-Form pipe the ACK is the only thing that works in with the pipe so far.
Firko, I'm sorry to say that any self respecting yamaha YZ-A or B owner would rather have their 'pissy' little genuine clutch activator cover than a cheap run of the mill DT cover
I fully agree DJ..The "pissy" is in reference to its size, nothing more. Have another look at the covers and what I wrote, they're definitely not cheap run of the mill DT covers, they're from a DT2MX, a bike rarer, dare I say it, than a YZA and featuring covers that appeared for only one model year. That's why I'm using them,to be a bit different from the run of the mill DT1 stuff.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/rickmanMaicoandcheney003.jpg)
Hey Mark,any chance you could put up a pic of the air box that appears in your post?
Like to get some ideas for an air box I need to build.
The airbox is away at the polishers right now but I'll take a shot of it when I get it back. In the meantime, here's a shot of the forums Dave Macs Cheney Ducati showing it's airbox sitting next to it. It's essentially the same as mine, the pipe routing through the middle of the box, exiting directly under the rear guard, above the tyre. Weird I know. The Poms were good at making a simple process difficult.
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-8/1062154/cheney%20ducati.jpg)
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Is their any parts or bikes you own Firko that are "normal, standard or just plain original"?..... fug me.... you have all this "shit" ;D that I've never heard of the manufacturer before......I must have been living under a mushroom the last 51 years...... or am I too young?...I mean I do admire you having a Ducati Cheney Yamaha Hindle Rickman Suzuki CZ frame with a Yosimura Mugen CCM Lito Monark Montessa BSA powered engine running on hot air, with Betor, Marrozzocci, KYB, Koni, Works, Ohlin's, WP, Fox suspension with a set of chrome steel handlebars.....I mean, what gives?......You still havent found a Kelvin Franks bike or frame yet...your slipping Mark!! ;D
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I like the head, and would leave it there.
Cheers,
K
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Have another look at the covers and what I wrote, they're definitely not cheap run of the mill DT covers, they're from a DT2MX, a bike rarer, dare I say it, than a YZA and featuring covers that appeared for only one model year
Exactly what I was going to point out. Love those DT2M s'covers.
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Thats an ACK head John...The fugly thing was a good idea at the time but I now hate it. It's to be repaced with an RT2MX head as soon as I can find one. Because I'm running a modified YZ360A Pro-Form pipe the ACK is the only thing that works in with the pipe so far.
If the ACK head is designed for a piston-port RT1 motor, then please think of me when you remove it from your motor!
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I like the head, and would leave it there.
Cheers,
K
Me too.
Anything aftermarket is cool to me, be it ugly or not. I don't think it's ugly either. Never heard of it either. The beauty of the old days, heaps of trick parts. Aftermarket parts these days consist of anodised parts...woopie!
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Is their any parts or bikes you own Firko that are "normal, standard or just plain original"?.
John, I've been involved with vintage motocross in one way or the other since 1986 and in that time I've restored a heap of "normal, standard or just plain original" bikes, many of which are still out there racing today. After I cried blood to get my DT1 resto "absolutely perfect" I vowed I'd never put myself through that again. As much as I'm reasonably happy with the final result, I hated nearly every minute of the build and in the end it's just another shiny DT1.
I have a background in drag racing and modified cars so it's only natural that my interests swayed towards modifying my bikes. It started innocently by modifying my 350 Maico, making alloy airbox, fitting Wheelsmith goodies and tailoring the bike to look different to all of the other Maicos out there. Then I built the now legendary "DT1 from Hell" and I realised what fun it is to build 'hot rod' vintage racers. Today, I love building bikes that are different to the norm that are quirky and allow me to throw a bit of "artistic" flair at the bike while keeping it within a particular class legality. I like being able to build a bike using the best parts from a particular era rather than being tied to what a particular manufacturer wanted. The Cheney for instance is to be a serious pre '70 racer using the best pre '70 major components I can find.
My mate Alan Jones shares my weird fetish with hot rod bikes and we inspire each other with each new project. While I became bored with building bikes "right" I admire you guys who strive for factory perfection. Preserving bikes in their original form is essential to the future of our sport. What I'm doing is a bit of fun, showing what 'could' have been built if we'd had the money back then.
If the ACK head is designed for a piston-port RT1 motor, then please think of me when you remove it from your motor
Nathan, the head's designed for an RT1, whether it was available for the black tanker is going to take some research. I bought it from the guy who used to collect YZs (Attard??) but sold up in a huff, now collects skateboards. I paid stupid money for it (I think $300) because I'd never heard of one before. Since then I've bought one for a DT1 on eBay but haven't seen too many more. I found one ad for one in a 1971 Popular Cycle and that's it. If you want to pay me what it owes me, it's yours. Or..find me a RT2MX head and $200 and it's yours. I don't like it because I don't think it fits the pre '70 'look'. A Webco fits the look but I can't fit an up pipe on this bike with its unique pipe routing problem.
The beauty of the old days, heaps of trick parts. Aftermarket parts these days consist of anodised parts...woopie!]
That's right Brad. Back in the pre '75 era the manufacturers were still experimenting on the 'hot setup' and many, many aftermarket manufacturers came onto the scene with their product that was going to improve on the bikes performance. That most of them were crap doesn't detract from their place in history. Just wait until you see some of the cools shit on this bike at CD7. Even the barrels special, and nobodys mentioned the inlet manifold yet. ;D
sorry 'bout the thread hijack DJ...funny how these things evolve eh? :)
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I hope you have got a sore finger now!!.....now hop it out into the shed and finish some of those bikes....CD7 is not very far away...NO excuses!!
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No problem Mark, thats what this is all about, showing the parts off, new and old. Hopefully it helps poeple and shows what can be done when people with great skills(not me) and knowledge(once again, not me) of this sport share what they have.
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Last i heard the YZa could run the sprocket cover as original equipment, its not really a safetly issue as it does cover enough IIRC.
Firko DONT take this the wrong way, and Without putting the cart before the horse you keep mentioning POST 71 parts on a pre 70 racers, am i missing somthing here or .......
arenth they suppost to be pre 70, and look like the model they are representing from the outside.....
The Cheney for instance is to be a serious pre '70 racer using the best pre '70 major components
ACK head found in a 1971 Popular Cycle and that's it.
find me a RT2MX head (72)
DT2mx Clutch cover unit (72)
Inlet manifold/reed.
And heres me worring about square swing arms.
Getting back to the thread DJ,
be interested in cost, very good set up, be interested in what button mech he is using in there also ...
get him to get a price for 10, i think you'd sell that on here alone.
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Firko DONT take this the wrong way arenth they suppost to be pre 70, and look like the model they are representing from the outside...
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You're spot on Freaky. If rule 16.6.0.1 states "Engines must remain externally unchanged", was to interpreted literally, the RT1 engine in my Cheney would be ilegal. The sidecovers, head, and inlet system would deem it to be "externally changed". However, if the rule was to interpeted literally anybody with a DG head, aftermarket external cases, or other mods could be challenged by officials.
To make things even more difficult for me, I'm the guy that authored that particular rule twenty odd years ago, which makes me a bit of a hypocrite in some peoples eyes :-\. However, I reckon that precedent must come into it. I raced my DT1 Yamaha in pre '70 competition for about 10 years ,collecting some trophies at National level along the way using the very same cases and it was never, ever challenged in scrutineering. In fact, nobody even commented on them to my recollection. Using that as a precedent, I fitted DT2MX outer cases to my engine purely because I like the look. The cases offer no performance enhancement and any performance increase from the head would be pretty dubious. I've used it purely so that I can route the pipe through the airbox as the factory intended. As the Cheney factory never made an RT1 powered machine, sticking to the 250cc DT1 engine and modifying a GYT head to allow the pipe at the factory, I'm stuck with finding something suitable and at present, it's the ACK head. As I wrote in an earlier post, I don't particularly like the ACK radial head as it looks too modern(to me anyway). A Webco or even better an RT2MX head would be more in fitting with the period look even if they too are from outside the pre '70 era. It's best we remember here that the RT1 engine itself wasn't released until mid 1970 which makes the whole what's in, whats out argument a little weird considering the class is pre '70.
As someone with strong feelings about "period integrity" I fully understand your points Freaky and I'll be running the bike past Dave Tanner at CD7. If Dave or any other official thinks that I've gone too far with those cases, I'll be more than willing to fit original RT1 cases in time for the Dirt Track Nats with no argument. I've only fitted those cases because they 'look cool' and have tried to build a bike that I would have built in 1971 if I had been cashed up. Everything elses on the bike is is totally within period except for the rear backing plate which I haven't made my mind up on yet anyway.
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Firko DONT take this the wrong way arenth they suppost to be pre 70, and look like the model they are representing from the outside...
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You're spot on Freaky. If rule 16.6.0.1 states "Engines must remain externally unchanged", was to interpreted literally, the RT1 engine in my Cheney would be ilegal. The sidecovers, head, and inlet system would deem it to be "externally changed". However, if the rule was to interpeted literally anybody with a DG head, aftermarket external cases, or other mods could be challenged by officials.
To make things even more difficult for me, I'm the guy that authored that particular rule twenty odd years ago, which makes me a bit of a hypocrite in some peoples eyes :-\. However, I reckon that precedent must come into it. I raced my DT1 Yamaha in pre '70 competition for about 10 years ,collecting some trophies at National level along the way using the very same cases and it was never, ever challenged in scrutineering. In fact, nobody even commented on them to my recollection. Using that as a precedent, I fitted DT2MX outer cases to my engine purely because I like the look. The cases offer no performance enhancement and any performance increase from the head would be pretty dubious. I've used it purely so that I can route the pipe through the airbox as the factory intended. As the Cheney factory never made an RT1 powered machine, sticking to the 250cc DT1 engine and modifying a GYT head to allow the pipe at the factory, I'm stuck with finding something suitable and at present, it's the ACK head. As I wrote in an earlier post, I don't particularly like the ACK radial head as it looks too modern(to me anyway). A Webco or even better an RT2MX head would be more in fitting with the period look even if they too are from outside the pre '70 era. It's best we remember here that the RT1 engine itself wasn't released until mid 1970 which makes the whole what's in, whats out argument a little weird considering the class is pre '70.
As someone with strong feelings about "period integrity" I fully understand your points Freaky and I'll be running the bike past Dave Tanner at CD7. If Dave or any other official thinks that I've gone too far with those cases, I'll be more than willing to fit original RT1 cases in time for the Dirt Track Nats with no argument. I've only fitted those cases because they 'look cool' and have tried to build a bike that I would have built in 1971 if I had been cashed up. Everything elses on the bike is is totally within period except for the rear backing plate which I haven't made my mind up on yet anyway.
Who cares, it looks great [almost as good as a Dutch Twinshocker]! ;D
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Who cares, it looks great [almost as good as a Dutch Twinshocker]!
Smart arse ;D
I reckon it looks better than standard but Freaksters got a point. I'f I'm going to waffle on about others "getting it wrong" I've got to cop it back occasionally. To be honest, the bike's only going to see a few proper meetings a year, both Nats with a mate riding and the odd dirt track or two with me at the helm so if I have to change the covers over for the Nats events, that's what I'll do. For CD and HBBB action, who gives a shit!
Anyway...I best get back back to the shed or the bike won't even make it to CD7.
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Who cares, it looks great [almost as good as a Dutch Twinshocker]!
Smart arse ;D
I reckon it looks better than standard but Freaksters got a point. I'f I'm going to waffle on about others "getting it wrong" I've got to cop it back occasionally. To be honest, the bike's only going to see a few proper meetings a year, both Nats with a mate riding and the odd dirt track or two with me at the helm so if I have to change the covers over for the Nats events, that's what I'll do. For CD and HBBB action, who gives a shit!
Anyway...I best get back back to the shed or the bike won't even make it to CD7.
Yer im just mindful of how we jump up and down over period correct from the outside, and you have to draw a line somewhere, i think with the correct side covers you should be fine, internals are free so that doesnt come into it, but where do you draw the line on other bits added out of period and when does it become a part or not ??
IM just playing the devils advocate. IF its 'the bike you would have built in 1971' if you had the cash, cool what a great progect to get into and how you want it, but its still a pre 75 bike and would be just as competiditive so why put it in a period before it could have been ?
all that does is blurr the lines even further and then everyone takes a bit more. PAtterson had that PRe 75 MX 250 on the line at the canberra nats and his excuse and precedent was my dad road it back in the day. not entirely true for that model engine and thats fine but thats the issue is its a 1975 model end of story and the rule is in place for a reason.
Not that its going to effect me any , but i think fair is being consitant and its perhaps not the bike itself, but its the precedent it then sets for other to mold the rules 'cause they like to have built it like that' - when they (insert period here) had the cash if they rode in the time.
I'D just like to see it with the right Side covers on it, if it was on the national stage and the other stuff spec back so it looked like the period it is representing, after all its as much about the spectical as the racing and Jo public has the right to see what looked correct. Once the door gets too wide open, we have a dutch class.
Rubber bars, shocks etc etc the line is clear and we have to be consitant. on a national stage it needs to look like its right like we have all agreed, from the outside, on the inside you can cut in a 09 YZ250 in there for all it matters, ( hell the Period RR guys do) but if we dont get the outside route right ,everything else is just build on a falacy.
PRecedents are dangerous as they just keep getting moved around like statistics.
Im glad you can see im genuine and not being a dick, but i really like the fact that Vmx seems in the whole, to present period machinery like a working museum, thats what id like to see on the track, other wise it will be Blue/purple sx rims, FAt snail pipes, gripper seats, anodised shocks and forks, plastic tanks on em before you know it and the pre 75 looking bike is long gone.............. and then whats the point.
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I agree with everything you say. Absolutely everything. The whole heart of our sport revolves around us maintaining the period integrity of the bikes we race. For years I've been ranting on about bikes that miss out because their owners fail to see the cutoff point between eras. Now here I am fudging the calendar myself. I got lost in the same red mist that produces great bikes that are ruined by inappropriate out of period parts like wave disc rotors on a certain CR500, Excel rims on pre '75 bikes, alloy swingarms with no historic precedent and all the other stuff I've whinged about for years. If I'm expecting to be taken seriously when I do whinge about such stuff, I should be setting an example with my own bikes.
The conical front hub and alloy rear hub are being replaced on my Maico so it's only right that the Cheney be right as well. The Cheney to my mind is 100% pre '70 legal except for the side covers and head but I'll still go over it with Dave over a beer ay CD7.
There's a pre '75 Hindall framed version of the same bike coming up before long so the side covers and head will find a happy home on it.
IM just playing the devils advocate. IF its 'the bike you would have built in 1971' if you had the cash, cool what a great progect to get into and how you want it, but its still a pre 75 bike and would be just as competiditive so why put it in a period before it could have been ?
The frame was made in 1969 by Eric Cheney, the engine is a piston port RT1 and therefore pre '70 legal, the forks and wheels are all period so it's a legal pre '70 bike. I should have written...the bike I would have liked to build in 1969 if I was cashed up.
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How many people not heavily into yamahas would know that the side covers aren't pre 70? Does seem a little pedantic to me
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good on you for being open to debate and understanding its a discussion about what rather than personal stick. Sorry tony its not about whether you know its a 72 clutch set up or not, its the point of showcasing a period. we either do or we dont, you keep greying the lines it just gets so blurred you end up with a pre 85 class. to be honest i have run the Dt2mx case on a DT1 and it actual seems to work beter, mabye the button has a better cable angle, or my Dt1 buttons are all routed but it did seem a better unit on the bike, so you could agure although it works the same, does it really ?? the next debat is as these unit shit themselves , i havent seen many new or remade nylon buttons ( still cant believe that - be a fortune in it for someone) so what next ? to keep the bikes running how do you make someting like the speedway actuator look period ? legal but nothing like the cover are they, there is probally a lsit of extenal consumable parts we need to master while keeping them period looking i think.
Im just throwing out the idea that its not perhaps about the mechanicals of our bikes thats important, most punters wouldnt under stand an omniphase balancer, but to see a row of YZA with DT1 cover on them kinda does the class a diservice, how do you preserve the integrety of the class by "trying" to let people comply with and maintaining a racing bike, in both ease of ongoing performace but also looking like it should rather than a poisin lil abomination, that just makes the sport only that, it visually represent nothing.
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PS dave tanners on MAster chef again right now .....so , ill be back in a minute after i seen what tanner is cooking tonight
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and Freaky -just to stray a little further - what about rare parts - what about YZB clutch actuator covers that are at $500USD and rarer than hens teeth. What you have said is correct but what about when things are no longer available? What about being able to put a 2010 Ohlins shock on a get away with it? I am all for it - accuracy that is - but it is not an indefinite proposition?
Rossco
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YEp thats what im saying above, its a conumdrum. how do we keep the external and also keep them on the track, in firkos case it easy when a DT1 cover is easy to get he period correct, and the YZ mags well i got 3 on the shelf here, but like you thats where they sit and im using cut up Dt1 covers, but whats the story with the buttons? if we cant get someone to remake them how do you keep em going and keep them looking "right on the outside"
i want them to look right from the outside and dont care about the inside, so there my gut feel is, lets keep it looking right, but get smarter in how we build the bits to keep em running under the skins.
My point was really lets try to hang onto what we can, i can reason with sympethtic looing modern shocks Im not sure the ohlin piggies have the short travel shock so thats ok be few and far under exsisting rules, but more so limit Bling to actual period or consumable parts, stuff thats small or cant be sourced otherwise, and where posible at least looks period in style.
Just i hate to see us get lasy and run with the anodised rims, forks, shocks, grippers, later covers etc etc. cause its easy, get em in black or silver at least, be nice to Keep the period stuff for as long as we can and that way they at least look a bike were trying to recreate, otherwise it may as well look like a row of modern bikes, other thqan the colour who would know the model....
Guess its like keeping your kids , kids but it would be nice to keep it as long as we can, and trying to make them look like they did where we can if its just the simple stuff like the covers. :D
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(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/JohnnyOld2010247.jpg)
isnt that clutch mech great.
Freaky, Rossvickicampbell, that is the reason why the guy made the clutch actuator.
The internals (worm gear etc) from old road bikes are steel not plastic like the YZ's so he has made the housing to look like the YZ-A/B and modified it to fit the yamaha XS road bike's worm drive parts which are still available at reasonable cost. The worm drive from the road bike lasts longer and as you can see the whole thing looks great. It wouldnt be that hard to drill a couple of holes on the inside (top and bottom) so that they cant be seen, tap a thread into each and then make up a nice ali spocket cover. That way you can remove it and not have any threaded holes showing so you still have the YZ look and when needed, just bolt the spocket cover on and go racing.
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You could have a career in sales & marketing there DJ ;D
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However, if the rule was to interpeted literally anybody with a DG head, aftermarket external cases, or other mods could be challenged by officials.
hell if it was taken literally we would be all riding boring as batshit stockbikes and the period trick bits that I live for would be down the river.
Funny you mentioned the classic road race guys changing internals, recent article in Classic Racer refered to modern Manx Nortons as 'Supermono racing" ;D, But their presence has certainly lifted the profile of RR and meant Patons and other repro exotica were built to beat them. Maybe a few B50 motors with YZ450 internals wouldn't go amiss.
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Yeah DJ - we must be a bit slow on this side of the pond. Mate and I just found the XS etc worm drives - at a much better price also. Gary has access to an engineering shop so he went through the trial and error path of getting one made up that fits the original cover etc. Must admit his clutch actually feels a little lighter than mine - dont know whether the additional spiral on the worm drive helps but he has been out and about on it a couple of times now with no problems. All for less than $50Aus whereas the genuine plastic unit pulls around $150USD now.
So well done to the man in question above.
Rossco
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At the nats i saw Tony herb bike and son adam had cast a whole new cover and they drmelled it to take a xs 650 worm.
I guess it all posible if you know what your doing the rest of us i guess will just have to keep turning up the the day job to pay for it all......
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Freaky - I will see if Gary can send you the details as his mod was quite easy to do - didn't involve machining up a sparkly arkly new cover though - so dont expect one of those?
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and we never did find out whether the clutch actuator cover that started this thread was ever going to become available to buy? DJR - is he interested in turning some up?
cheers
Rossco
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I found a guy with one of them crazy axis cutting things, but im now more interested in finding out if he can remake the worm drives for the Actutor, i have a box about 20 of them and there all forked, cracked, split and so on, the plastic helix worms diditn last time........ there must be a substitute worm or someone who can make them up. or failing that redesign the mech at a cheap enough price to be able to use them. Anyone heard any alternative or movements in this area ? yer and im alos out of Dt cases so im on my last cover and actuator.......... so this is a poinient project.
( if you can get DJ to get that "G" code from that bloke we can get our own made Ross from this chap and then work on a mech system to suit us) Davey ???? ideas and are you in too.....
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Hey amigos! Gonna try restarting this old thread; About to start a yz360a project and need the clutch actuating cover. Did anyone ever find the person that made this aluminum machined cover above or the G code for it. I want to buy 2 of these covers. Also, saw the info on the xs650 clutch mechanism and found a really nice kit from this guy in germany on ebay for around $77, go to ebay and type in xs650 clutch and you will find this very great deal. Regards
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f65/djracingyz/JohnnyOld2010247.jpg
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He's racing the MrVMX series over here in NZ this year, TMBill or Bazza may know how to contact him to see if he would be interested
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If anyone can tell us where to buy these gizmo's you can count me in for two or even three. As much as I love the old DT1 based engine, the clutch actuator is their Achilles heel. Because of the damage a derailed chain can do to the cover and actuator, it's imperative to use a chain guide and/or tensioner. I use old school spring loaded Pro-Fab tensioners or these cheap and cheerful little chain guides from our Chinese friends for less than $20 landed http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHAIN-GUARD-GUIDE-China-XR-CRF50-KLX110-style-bike-see-size-/160708571998?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256afa335e#ht_4199wt_698 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHAIN-GUARD-GUIDE-China-XR-CRF50-KLX110-style-bike-see-size-/160708571998?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256afa335e#ht_4199wt_698)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/chainguide.jpg)
While you're checking out the chain guide, I can recommend these billet alloy throttles. They're all CNC machined alloy and are as strong as a slant six Valiant. I've got them on a couple of my bikes and swear by them.....all for less than $30!http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gray-Color-CNC-THROTTLE-CLAMP-7-8-CRF50-PIT-DIRT-BIKE-/160711961274?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256b2deaba#ht_3793wt_698 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gray-Color-CNC-THROTTLE-CLAMP-7-8-CRF50-PIT-DIRT-BIKE-/160711961274?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256b2deaba#ht_3793wt_698)
(http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k495/firko2/throttle.jpg)
While some of their stuff is still shoddy shit, the Chinese are really picking up their act and many parts such as these shown are as good and often better than the mainstream stuff. In fact, you'd probably find that the parts you pay big dollars for from the USA or the big Aussie retailers are made in China right beside this cheap stuff.
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HENCE THE dELEMA- BETTER CHINEESE SHIT (LIKE METISSE FRAMES) OR TRY AND SUPPORT LOCAL MANUFACTURING SO WE AND OUR KIDS HAVE JOBS
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I agree Mike...as soon as someone makes these parts locally for the right price, I'm first punter in there with cash in hand. I'm hoping I can buy an Aussie or NZ built clutch actuator as shown above, I don't think the Chinese have bothered with them yet ;D. Unfortunately the reality is that we've all been buying Chinese for years....even the Edelbrock heads on you beloved Mustang are made in China ;).
Let's keep this on topic YZ360B or Yamaha clutch actuators as it's an interesting subject, we've kicked the Chinese around before but if we need to revisit that subject, maybe we should start another thread.
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Gents Im interested in obtaining a few as well ,Im down to my last pair of worms as well.
Iain :(
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Guys - I dont know how many he has left but I ended up buying three from the guy in the UK who lists them. I paid $50 delivered to the door whereas the guy in the states trying to sell them wants $200 - and says his are a different type - look the same to me. Knock on wood I haven't had to change one yet. Thats the worm actuator itself - not the cover. I see one of those on US ebay for around $250
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its th ecover thats the problem Ross the worms are ok but the covers are rooted on the DT1 and RT so they kill the new worms if fitted to old shit. and the YZA/B cover will no longer get thorugh scrutineering due to the sprocket issue, so these CNC ones would be the go them you can weld in or get 2 threaded 6mm tags on the edge so you can put a cover on the end for racing days. I have cut up DT1 to look shorter but they still look crap when you look at the YZ covers, and the B being magnesium tend to crack on the wrom etc and i cant get them fixed. we need to come up with a new alternative. I know jamie herbert i think it was cast some up in school for his YZ or could have been the other herbert lad that did, either way they dont seem hard to make if you know where to start.
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Guys,heres a set of forks on trademe in NZ excuse the sellers spelling,but they are legit.They arent mine but I know the seller.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/suspension/auction-441140129.htm
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Freaky, I have spoken to a guy about remaking them, he can do it off a sample I have and can change the angle of the spiral to make the clutch pull lighter (fark there heavy)...it will cost money and if there are enough people that want them I will do it...BUT a non refundable deposit will be needed as I have made stuff before and had all the promises...yeah, put me down for 2 and when time comes the only thing you hear is the chrunching of reverse gear....if I do it it will be a cover that can have a sprocket guard mounted to it , look the same as the original and the worm drive assy, like I say, it can be done but wont be cheap so the more that want one the cheaper they will be.
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DC - estimate of how much "not cheap" is though?
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Guesstimate would be between $250 to $450....depends on numbers, he explained to me how they where made originally and its not a cheap process...if you look they have a parting line down the middle and are taperred which is what gives them the strenght and lightweight.....remember they where made same as the works YZ before they became OW's. I like the fact that by changing the spiral angle you can have a light "pull" ;D
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Send a sample or make a CAD file send to this mob , pay with Pay Pal and you'll have a 1000.
http://rpworld.net/cms/index.php/home.html
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Mate, if I do it, an Aussie will get the money, I have a very good group of people that I deal with/customers etc....having a quick look at old mate and when I dont see an address I figure its Chinese.....could be wrong again, thanks anyway.
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Gents I can't remember where I found this photo but it works like the 81yz pull across
(http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m612/Iain_Cameron/Yamclutch.jpg)
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(http://www.allen224.com/dt1clutch)
Hey guys, having read this thread I assume that this type of clutch accuator will not pass tech with your clubs.
A clever builder could make a lightweight sprocket cover. I have used this on my DT1 from the start and have been pleased
with it. Having ridden lots of Yams and currently owning a 250a and a 250b, it is my opinion that this lever type gives a much better feel. It is stiff, I guess it is because of the 180 the cable has to make! Kinda like the cobby mechanical look also.
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Wendell's trick actuator photo has disappeared for some reason.....any chance it might reappear? I'm going to try and whip up one or two of these actuator gizmo's with the help of Uncle Frank Stanborough and need as many detail shots as I can find.
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Not sure but the early KTM stuff maybe able to fitted