Exhaust paint

[maicomc490t]

For those of you who have used and been happy with VHT expansion chamber paint are you aware it is no longer in production in the US due, apparently, to a fire at the factory where a lot of the base ingredients were made (I bet it was one pisser of a fire!). I used it a lot over the years and it did the job very well especially if you cured it before use by putting a heat gun up the pipe for 20 mins or so

The distributor in OZ (Speco Thomas) while helpful couldn't tell me much, short of what he was reading from a catalogue.

So what are most of you using these days that doesn't burn off and look like shit after a few rides - I remember reading way back about $2 rattle can satin enamel etc but figured there must be better stuff than that or am I on the wrong track?

I spoke to Geoff Morris yesterday about a Pursang pipe and he suggested VHT engine enamel in satin which given his knowledge is well worth a try as he knows his stuff but I figured there may be other suppliers too - ideally able provide bulk paint to put through a gun as the rattles are always dearer.

I know this topic was chucked around some time ago but figured we could update the knowledge base !

Dave Mac 

[Nathan S]

I've used PlastiCote and WhiteKnight heat proof paints in the recent past.

PlastiCote Woodstove stuff seems quite good.
It does end up burning off the header pipe, but it takes significantly longer to burn off than the WhiteKnight 'heat proof' stuff.
Plus the PlastiCote stuff has a semi-gloss finish that looks right on most bikes (rather than the 'more matt than satin' of the WhiteKnight).
And is far more petrol resistant than the WK stuff too...

No points for guessing which brand I'm buying in the future.

[L.Ron.Pursang]

Don't waste your money on heat proof paint. I use $2.99 el Cheapo discount satin black paint and it works a treat.

[Graeme M]

El cheapo on the exhaust? Does it last very long?

I have used VHT expansion chamber paint and didn't like it at all. However, their Engine Enamel in the GMH Satin Black is an excellent paint for engine cases being very durable and just the right sort of satin finish. I have also just done my wheel hubs using VHT Brake Caliper and Drum paint in the Satin Black and it looks perfect, although how durable it is I have yet to find out.

I always used to paint my frames using Taubman's Fiddly Bits - a good gloss finish that was very durable if you let it cure for a few weeks. These days that's hard to find (I don't think they make it anymore) so now I use the WhiteKnight stuff. I just did my IT175 frame with that so we'll see how well it works. I'm sure it'll be fine for something I'll just tool around on, but dunno how good it'd be for a bike being raced say in dirt track. 2-pack or powder coating might be more effective there...

[L.Ron.Pursang]

Graeme, I've been through the whole shebang of these heatproof paints and reckon the cost/ efficiency differential doesn't make them a big enough improvement over the cheapo rattlers to be worth the effort or expense. Whether it's a cheapo or a specific heat proof paint, they all eventually burn up on the header pipe. I've been using $2.99 cheapos for almost as long as I've been fiddling with old bikes and my pipes have always looked pretty good after a day in the dirt.

[LWC82PE]

i too didnt really like the VHT expansion chamber paint and found it burns off too easily. I found that VHT flame proof coating in the red and silver can was a lot better as its rated to a higher temp (around 1500C i think)

[pancho]

ive used old fashioned black chalk-board paint for years very cheap and lasts as long as the dear stuff, just brush it on with a cheap brush. cheers wally.     g'day firko!

[gorby]

we used tyre paint on the headers of the suzuki GSX1100 powered speedway minisprint and apart from the smoke on first startup it stayed on fine,we just gave it another coat each time we raced to cover the stains from the orange clay

[marshallmech]

VHT caliper paint is the same as the expansion chamber paint same temp rating to
I think you can get it in matt or satin.




Andy Viper#70

[pmc57]

I used Septone HEAT PROOF paint from Supercheap Auto. Been on my RM for a couple of years now and still looking good. Says its also good for Pot Belly stoves and BBQ's, well priced too.

[maicomc490t]

Thanks guys - all sounding good and makes me want to try em all. With the number of projects lined up I may just live long enough to do just that.

Given that it's no longer available this is academic but the VHT only worked if cured first ie before use. I have heard about their caliper paint working well before on hubs and barrels. Now I see no reason not to try other stuff too!

And Firko - good to have you back here mate. and trust Mum is hanging in there!

Dave Mac 

[Lozza]

No frills cooking oil even cheaper and never burns off, a coat before racing and dirt won't stick either.

[GMC]

I don't normally paint the chambers I build but have painted some of my own over the years.
I have noticed that engine paints & pot belly paints have the same temp. rating.
The Pot belly paints (I guess I have only used White Knight) look way to flat.
I currently use VHT engine gloss black but only on the muffler end pieces.
Firko may be right that ordinary paints survive okay, "a fool & his money are soon parted" but as I am selling parts, I wish to use the "good stuff". I admit it's probably more of a pyshological benefit.
As for buring off the header, I think you will find in time nearly everything does, including original factory paints & nickel.

[mx250]

Freaking hell!!!!! Just don't spray grease and wax remover onto that VHT - dissolves it faster than paint remover .

I thought I would put a second coat on some engine covers; do the right thing, quick wipe with some Grease ad Wax remover, Fuuuu....... .

[Maicojames]

To help( hopefully).......the best hi temp I used ever was a VHT flame proof in clear over a carefully cleaned( of all oils) pipe. Lasted about 5 seasons. Now, I just run the bare pipe, but clean with acetone, scuff pad ( approx 320 grit US)-then apply a gun blue coating-often it takes four coats. This does darken the pipe some what, but with a blast of WD-40 has held off corrosion.

A racer told me about have professional hi temp coating on only the inside of a pipe-and triple chroming the outside, claiming good results with no bluing on header pipe four stroke and two stroke.  Chrome looks good on a BSA or Matchy four stroke header for most, on a two stroke chamber....well some like some do not.