To hone or not to hone

[Gerard De Ruyter (Twistandshout)]

I know its considered normal workshop practice to hone a barrel before reinstalling with new top end, to deglaze.  I did that with my trusty supercheap hone (three pronged spring loaded 'stone' type) and honed by raising/lowering fairly rapidly with a cordless driver.  I'm a bit worried the criss-cross scratching that resulted is a bit deep - I can feel the coarseness with my fingernail - is that normal?  Perhaps the hone stone is too coarse?  I've got another barrel same bore size I can use, so not too worried, but thinking I might use the non-honed one in case the scratching's too deep on the other one.

[Momus]

That would have  been a brake hone. I'd be more worried about the roundness of the bore. Regardless, the marks won't make any difference. I used those hones and the dunny brush type to good effect back in the day.

[kdx Geoff]

That sounds like the same hone l have and found the spring pressure was too high.
l changed the spring to reduce the pressure and that made a big difference.

[John Orchard]

Ha ha, I've not had any trouble with any old bit of course sandpaper I've found on the garage floor and used on the end of my finger  :-)

[Trokel510]

Not that I have much experience in this area as I have only ever honed one bore and that was on the XL500. I used a cheap hone bought on Ebay and had the spring tension set quite light as I was worried about overdoing it and was really happy with the result. Just a nice light crisscross pattern. However I had one of my other bikes bored and honed by an engine reco place and it was just like you described. I couldn't believe how coarse it was and as they are professionals I can only assume that it was correct.

[Lozza]

I know its considered normal workshop practice to hone a barrel before reinstalling with new top end, to deglaze.  I did that with my trusty supercheap hone (three pronged spring loaded 'stone' type) and honed by raising/lowering fairly rapidly with a cordless driver.  I'm a bit worried the criss-cross scratching that resulted is a bit deep - I can feel the coarseness with my fingernail - is that normal?  Perhaps the hone stone is too coarse?  I've got another barrel same bore size I can use, so not too worried, but thinking I might use the non-honed one in case the scratching's too deep on the other one.

Was the cylinder honed dry? As stated above they don't really keep the bore round. The course finish will last a few minutes.

[Gerard De Ruyter (Twistandshout)]

Aha - adjustable tension - nice.  Have adjusted it out and done the other one more lightly - good stuff.

Then moved onto installing piston, rings and cylinder (TT250).  Top ring and oil rings nicely in spec, but the second ring has this gap of like 1.5mm - what the hell???  Brand new unopened Yamaha pack of rings.  Right part no. etc etc.  Manual says top and second should have same gap (0.2 - 0.4mm). 

What happens if I order another and get the same??

I have another set of new rings, for the next oversize.  Second ring in that set just touches ends in the bore.  Anything wrong with filing a 0.2mm gap and using that???

[80-85 husky]

I would say that's fine as that was how ring gaps were set before "precision?" manufacturing. best get a genuine engine mans approval tho...I only know shit from clay...(im a geologist!!)

[mick25]

I have had to file ring gaps down to the right spec as per manual says to do.
 I've had no dramas , make sure there's no sharp edges after you file.

[shelpi]

yep filled down rings a few times for the rare old birds and then thrashed them Woops I mean raced them with absolutly no drama's at all, just make sure the gap is parallel when in the bore at its servicible tolerance,
hows the piston to ring gap and is the piston ring grooves clean?
find the tightest position in the bore for mesuring especialy on old bores that have bellied out, actually are your ring end gaps the same at the top, middle and bottom of the bore? as long as the ring end gap remains within the servicible tolerances your good to go