Carbie inlet sealant

[yamaico]

I have used loctite sealer for over thirty years and never had a failure. In addition to crankcases I use it on crank seals - they are a bit slippery to get in sometimes but once cured do not move. The beauty of loctite, in my humble opinion, is that it is anaerobic, and therefore any excess just washes away - not the case with Yamabond type sealers, as evidenced on just about every Yamaha produced. The loctite can be simply cleaned off with acetone at rebuild time, not scraped off like the others.

[Digga]

This might be helpful 

http://www.loctite.com.au/gasketing-4055.htm
http://www.henkel.com.au/aue/content_data/283618_gasketing.pdf

Key things to remember are that for larger gaps (> 0.5mm) then typically a silicon or similar type sealant is required, for lesser gaps then an anaerobic sealant (cures in the absence of oxygen)should be used. Remembering that all flange surfaces must be clean, smooth, dry & (0.0 - 0.5 mm), although in industry we typically would use 0.25 mm as the cut off gap for surface roughness.

L515, L518 are very commonly used but if you are looking for a more flexible version then L5188 is also a good choice.