Author Topic: Damage in squish area, safe to use?  (Read 11301 times)

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Offline tony27

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Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« on: November 21, 2014, 06:00:37 pm »
I had a CZ head modified last year which to be honest came back in shocking condition, the area that locates on the liner was 2mm bigger than it should have been even though I'd written the required on the head when I sent it off, that has been corrected for me by 1 of the guys over here
What I'm really not sure about is whether the head is usable due to the porosity in the squish area, do I have a very expensive doorstop or am I safe to use it?
 
As the head arrived after modifying

Close up of some of the porosity in the squish band, liner location has been repaired


Another couple of close ups of the porosity which is not localized to 1 area

Offline shelpi

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #1 on: November 21, 2014, 06:33:51 pm »
consider this Yamaha used to paint the squish area,  not saying paint it, but was ammazed how long it lasted, I personaly think you will get away with it,
 but if it was me I would use appropriate material that will be able to handle the enviroment, like ceramic ;) its not that expensive

Offline Tim754

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #2 on: November 21, 2014, 06:43:47 pm »
Go for it. If she goes as I suspect it will sweet ,if not um , all care but no responsibility taken  ;)

Do not try plastic body filler and sanding.....don't work.
or epoxy glues. or a formed copper insert (no shit!) don't work either.....
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Offline pokey

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #3 on: November 21, 2014, 07:43:22 pm »
first of all i would get rid of the termites so it doesnt get worse

Then i would  have it welded and machined back to spec
 those pockets will be hot spots and getting a good even burn would be difficult.
 You could try it and see if it pings its head off

Offline cemotobull

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #4 on: November 21, 2014, 08:01:04 pm »
That's not damage, that's just old school alloy mixed with new alloy. It's very hard to get a good mix during welding with all the impurities in the old alloy. That would be fine to use and with a couple of runs, those pins holes will fill up with carbon anyway. I've run a hell of a lot worse than that!! You wouldn't be able to tell the difference!!

Offline Mick D

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #5 on: November 21, 2014, 08:43:02 pm »
Hi Tony, were those creators, pockets there before you sent the head away?
"light weight, and it works great"  :)

Offline jimg1au

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2014, 09:21:06 pm »
just run as is I have seen far worse on road racing bultaco heads and gred ball showed me on jap vmx head he was moding and it was the same new and old ally don't mix to well
jim

Offline GMC

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2014, 11:30:51 pm »
Quite often you will find porosity in castings. It will look fine until you machine it and then you will find these otherwise hidden imperfections.
The same problem often comes up with trying to weld alloy that is like this, you can usually create a nice bead of weld but when you take the top of the weld off you will also have these porosity holes in the weld.
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Offline Lozza

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #8 on: November 22, 2014, 12:01:31 am »
With porous heads sometimes its hard to avoid especialy as over time the oil has gone deep into the casting. When welded the oil seeps up to the surface with the heat no matter how careful the preparation is. There is only one way to find out
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Offline yamaico

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2014, 10:12:44 am »
With porous heads sometimes its hard to avoid especialy as over time the oil has gone deep into the casting. When welded the oil seeps up to the surface with the heat no matter how careful the preparation is. There is only one way to find out
I always boil heads, cases etc. before welding which gets a lot of the imprisoned oil out. Makes life a lot easier.

Offline sleepy

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2014, 11:00:22 am »
I would bead blast all over the chamber. That will help remove any extra loose bits and round off the sharp edges. Make sure that there is on oil in the porosity before you do that to help stop the bead sticking in the holes. After blasting give it a scub in boiling soapy water with a bit of steel wool to clean it up again.

It should be good to use and I very much doubt that the holes would make any difference to the performance, there are some very fast title winning motors out there with similar porosity.

Whats with the chater marks, are they meant to help or is it just poor machining?

Offline tony27

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #11 on: November 22, 2014, 03:12:30 pm »
The grooves are something that the company who did the modification does, they reckon it does all sorts of things to the mixture but I'll never know as they got polished off when the spigot location was repaired

Offline Slakewell

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #12 on: November 22, 2014, 03:58:43 pm »
First off I machine it until all the holes are gone then I bake it in an old oven overnight then boil it. Then reheat it in the oven then weld it. 
Current bikes. KTM MC 250 77 Husky CR 360 77, Husky 82 420 Auto Bitsa XR 200 project. Dont need a pickle just need to ride my motorcickle

Offline vandy010

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #13 on: November 22, 2014, 07:22:31 pm »
the machined "chatter" marks and "porosity" holes are to give an "air" buffer between the surfaces when the big BANG happens thus creating a smoother more even platform for the BANG!
just need a piston to match...
a bit like the bubbles on the swim suits they wear in the Olympics...
if you get my drift...
 :)











or was i the only one in the pits with a bike that wouldn"t run right? ::)
"flat bickie"

Offline Ted

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Re: Damage in squish area, safe to use?
« Reply #14 on: November 22, 2014, 08:56:26 pm »
the machined "chatter" marks and "porosity" holes are to give an "air" buffer between the surfaces when the big BANG happens thus creating a smoother more even platform for the BANG!
just need a piston to match...
a bit like the bubbles on the swim suits they wear in the Olympics...
if you get my drift...
 :)

I get your drift Mick. I've seen it proved. Nearly 40 years ago I saw my girlfriends father ( dirt tracker ) polishing the inlet of a cylinder with a toothbrush and toothpaste. In walks his brother in law ( surfboard maker ) and asks him what he is doing. He says I'm polishing it up to get the gas to run over it quicker. Brother in law says leave it rough, it will flow quicker. Bullshit says the father. Brother in law goes to the kitchen and comes back with water and food colouring. He pours some water on the rough sloped driveway. It goes about two feet and stops. He then pours same amount on the coved ( smooth ) edge of the driveway and it goes about four feet in about half the time that the rough surface would permit and stops. The father says I told you so, it travels faster over smooth surface. The brother in law then pours water on rough driveway to the same length as the smooth surface and it stops. He then adds a bit of food colour to the water and puts a couple of drops on the rough surface water and it gets to the end way quicker than the water did on the smooth surface. His theory was water runs over water with less friction thus speeding up the flow. The pits in the rough surface trap the water, allowing the water to run over unimpeded.











or was i the only one in the pits with a bike that wouldn"t run right? ::)
81 YZ 465 H   77 RM 125 B