I found out my stroke is 50mm
My rod is 98mm centre to centre
When I use the torque soft app at 20* I get a value of 1.88mm
I have the Digital PVL, not an analogue one, and an internal rotor. Not sure about windings etc.. I dont know my pvl cdi number yet, as I am working away. So, not sure what PVL ignition curve I have. Would the curve not be closest to the curve on the bottom right?
My Yamaha curve in my manual shows about 26* btdc at 4000 rpm
When I find out the correct value from pvl and then plug it into torqsoft, I assume I set the piston with my dial gauge at the given mm btdc, then make a mark on my outer stator and inner rotor that can be anywhere, but they must align. Then start the bike and using the rpm gauge and timing light, bring the rpm to the correct range and check to see if the marks line up, and then adjust the stator a whisker to align the marks. Does that process now sound correct?
Would this just test whether the ignition was working properly and set it to the recommended PVL baseline? As even PVL states that the measurements they give are only a starting point. I may need to go a lot more retarded for a higher compression engine no?
Also have to look at a leakdown test, a compression test, compression ratio test (Yamaha state 7.8-9.9:1) and squish band test. Yamaha recommends the squish for this bike at .8mm. Does anyone know what is considered a normal range for compression, and then what is considered a high compression engine?
I will have to find the correct curve for this bike. I know the kit is PVL Digital Ignition 80115. (anyone have an ignition curve for this kit?)
PVL only have 4 curves to choose from. 1.2mm BTDC= 16* (I think your rod length is 100mm too) so when you set that to 16* every point on that curve will be +/- 16*. At the point where the curve says "0*" will you have what you first set the stator/rotor to. The digital curve at 4000 rpm is +22* so you will have 38* and at 11,000 you will be back to 16*. As you can see 38* is a wee bit more than 26* of the yamaha curve.
Took me a while to get my head around what you are saying, but I believe you mean the digital curve in the PVL diagram is relative to "0". So when PVL say 22* at 4000 rpm, that would be as if you had your bike set at top dead centre. When you reset your piston away from ("0" , TDC), you are affectively adding degrees to PVL's curve. So, by using Torqsoft to calculate my crankangle at 1.2mm btdc, which gives me 16*, I have to add that to all the readings on the chart. The 16* I set the bike at plus the 22* from the chart at 4000 rpm, which is the 38*.
When I use Torqsoft to calculate the angle at .8mm btdc I get 13*, which would take the affective advance at 4000 rpm to 35*.
So, the Yamaha curve (I will have to put a pic up at some stage), shows the degree readings with the bike already set at the Yamaha recommended 1.88* btdc for their standard system, which is indeed about 26* at 4000 rpm.
At wide open throttle though (11000 rpm) Yamaha's chart shows 13*. PVL chart shows that the timing in the cdi has been retarded again back to "0", but add the 16* because of our 1.2mm movement of the piston and we have 16* again.
Yep, got all that now, but they are relatively the same at wide open. Dont ride the bike much at 4000 and it ran for 45 mins at these lower throttle openings when I was running it in. So, the PVL is not far off. And if i retard the timing to .8 mm btdc, i will be running 13* at 11000 and that would be the same as Yamaha. In fact, i re-read the PVL documentation and it does state i should be running between 1 and 1.2 mm and even lower if i have a modified engine.
I will be taking the cylinder and head up to Ray Easson and he is going to measure the head volume. He also wants one of my standard heads to measure and compare.
Overthehill, at idle i checked the new rad fluid by opening the cap and i could see it pumping around the bike. The cylinder is fine, it only had aluminium smeared on it, no marks at all from a ring snagging.
On another less complicated note (my head hurts).. i have ordered a new Mikuni 34 mm carb, and have compared and ordered the necessary jets to run the bike as per Yamaha 1983. I will also adjust the needle and run a bigger main anyway to run the bike richer.
Also ordered the new ProX piston.
Used Oemcycle.com this time. Anyone else starting to use them. I got a bunch of parts really cheap and they gave me 3 postal options.. One of the options was free post!! I have ordered nick nacks through their Ebay site, but their regular website is pretty good too.
Cheers,