Have a 74 450 Husky, crank is twisted from a big lockup when the crank drive gear and the clutch basket gear got pushed apart by a nut that got between them... ouch...
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Have a spare crank that has surface rust, the fellow who shipped it to me from the US must have washed it with some spirit to clean away the nasty oil but that invited in Mr Rust (same with the std. cylinder he sent).
The little end surface rust mostly came away with DW40 and oil, is now like a stain in the little end, feels smooth but looks stained and a little etched, am goint to build up a good crank from the two -- not pleased about the surface rust on the little end -- any comments/advice.
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But, I cannot see into the big end and it may have no rust, it may be stained like the little end or it may be forked.
So I need to split both cranks, no problem done that before.
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Was wondering, does anyone use say a hot air heat gun on the crank web to be lifted off the crank pin?
And although it's obvious that the heat would make the web swell a bit (and here finally is the question) would the heat on the web actually cause the pin hole to get tighter because the pin hole is at the very edge of the web, would it suffer a "pincer movement"?
Any thoughts?
