LACING WHEELS, HELP!!

[Rookie#1]

I've purchased new rims and spokes for my IT175H project, have a set of hubs and backing plates that will be powder coated soon, then have the task of lacing up some new wheels!!! I have never done this before and am looking for some advice/what to's/what not's etc.... Both the rims and spokes are brand new, although they are not OEM i have tested the spokes in rim holes and seems fitment will not be an issue really just need to know what to do when i make a start. Of course a suggestion of someone in vic that could do this for a reasonable price will also be considered       


Cheers, Brendan

[mick25]

I done my first lace up a year or so ago, I found it a nightmare untill I worked it out , took me most of a day to work out the spokes.
 I wrote some notes down for next time, I had a spare wheel to copy off as well.
I think I put all the spokes in the rim, then started on one side of the rim fitting the spokes then done the other side.
but might have to check my notes to be 100% right.
I used a straight edge across the brake side of the hub to measure off for the rim off sett.
I found trueing the wheel the easy bit, but you have to check the spokes for slack after you first ride like any new wheels.
( I put some grease in the nipples before installing aswell )

[vandy010]

its easier than you'd first think.
the rear should be easier than the front for your bike.
36 spokes,
18 inner
18 outer
sometimes
the 9 "left" inners will be different to the 9 "right" inners.
if that makes sense.
and same for the "outers".
i work in groups of 9 fitting all the "inners" first, then the "outers"
don't tighten anything till they're all fitted.
then mount the wheel in either a jig or on the bike so it can be spun freely,
measuring and trueing in groups of 9 as you go.
i almost forgot to mention,
if you're unsure, get a good photo of the wheel in question to work from as a model.
it also helps to measure the offset before you strip the old wheel but if you're trueing your wheel on the bike this can be adjusted on the run.
enjoy!

[Lozza]

"two forward, two back, one left, one right, one inner one outer"

[maico police]

"two forward, two back, one left, one right, one inner one outer"

Gee that clears it up.

If you're still struggling Brendan, give me a call.

[Colin Jay]

I have been lacing up quite a few wheels over the pased few weeks for a couple of projects. A method that I have used for years is to put all the spokes into the hub, and then cable tie them into the correct relationship/pattern before putting the rim to it.



If you look at the picture you will see that there is a repeating pattern of groups of 4 spokes. It does help to have a spare wheel or have taken pictures of the spoke patterm to copy.

I use Loctite antiseize on all the spoke threads/nipples.

CJ

[Nathan S]

In addition to what's been said:

Front wheel has three different types of spokes.
1. Nine brake side inner.
2. Nine brake side outer (these have more of a fish-hook bend than the inners).
3. Eighteen non-brake side inner (be worth double checking that they are all the same length, and not 9 that are slightly longer than the other 9).

I think the same is true for the rear on an IT175H.

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Most dirt bike wheels are "two cross", meaning that each spoke crosses two other spokes between the hub and the rim - noromally one just out of the hub and the other about halfway along. You can see this in Colj's photo.

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The biggest/most helpful thing to get your head around, is to realise that every 4th spoke (at the rim) comes from the same spot on the hub.
Every 2nd spoke (at the rim) comes from the same side of the hub.

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Used hubs will have witness marks from the old spokes. This makes life a lot easier because it clearly shows which direction the spoke should be going.

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Tensioning and truing is the real challenge, especially if you are using old rims that aren't dead straight... That'll be another post.

[SUZUKI311]

all good advice given, take your time to measure every spoke for the correct length, sometimes there are very minor differences in length which CAN create problems with extra length hanging out of the nipple. Did you check the amount of offset before stripping the wheels ? before stripping any wheel i always measure the amount of offset for that particular rim and note it, otherwise you may end up with the rim off to one side or the other. dont rush things, and i always tension one turn at a time, until it starts to tighten up correctly, then 1/2 turn on each. with new rims and spokes, the job is a hell of a lot easier than old rims/spokes. Some rims use a 3 crossover design, and i recall having al sorts of troubles with an early Husky wheel a long tiime ago, which really did my head in !!

[Lozza]

"two forward, two back, one left, one right, one inner one outer"

Gee that clears it up.

Well take a look as Col said it's a repeating pattern and "over 2" 36 spoke as I call it the pattern is "two forward, two back, one left, one right, one inner one outer"  The wheel above seems to be 2 back 2 forward, but the rest is always the same. The nemonic helps you remember it.
Only work on axial or radial run out not try to get both in 1 go.

[maico police]

On a lot of wheels the outer has to go in last. Not be laced in with the rest.

[Colin Jay]

Tensioning and truing is the real challenge, especially if you are using old rims that aren't dead straight... That'll be another post.

The wheel in the picture is from a 1974 DT100A, original rim and original replated spokes and nipples. Truing old rims is not really a challenge, it is a case of being realistic of how true an old rim can be made to run. For an old trail bike that will not be ridden at high speed, close (within 1 - 2mm both radially and laterally) is close enough. If the wheel is going onto somthing that can be ridden at speed, then you will never get an old rim true enough without an awful lot of work and frustration, and you are generally better off going for new rims.


Most Japanese wheels are naturally centred, makes them cheaper to manufacture, so you can often get away with not being to carefull with measuring the offset. Having said that, before I finish truing a wheel, I usually fit it to the bike to see how it centres in the bike. On some of the modified bikes that I have built, I have then had to pull the rim over to one side to get it centred correctly in the forks/swingarm.

CJ

[Nathan S]

On a lot of wheels the outer has to go in last. Not be laced in with the rest.

  Have to, or just easier to leave out until the other 27 spokes are laced in?

[Rookie#1]

Thanks very much for all you're comments, pics and advice folks. Will be most helpful when the time comes to get the job done. 

Cheers, Brendan

[maico police]

On a lot of wheels the outer has to go in last. Not be laced in with the rest.

  Have to, or just easier to leave out until the other 27 spokes are laced in?

No. If you're lacing from the outside in and there's already three sets of spokes in there, then you can't turn them to go into their holes for the nipples

[OverTheHill]

Without reading all the comments [will later], i built lots of wheels at work [back in the old days] & was a pain if you had nothing to go by [as in] customer just brings in a hub & rim. Got quite good at it in the end [well, just scrape through] but outdid myself once on a 350 Goldy 21 front that collapsed at a scramble. "Give it to me--i'll build it stronger than ever" so made a set to cross 4 instead of 3 [think that's right], trued up good etc then collapsed putting the tyre on--bugger--had to start again & cross 3 [had cut thread & rolled thread machines] Cheers.