POKEY hows the 185

[jimson]

Pokey I would love to take a big bag with me mate but I'm the dickhead staying home paying the bills while the wife and daughter are having fun in pommy land.And yes it will be good to see the Indian out there racing the jap bikes you will tell straight away which one it is it will be at the tail end of the race.After I've worked on it I'll be pushing it with my luck.

[Lozza]

cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.Here's why
1) It's the thrust side of the piston and doing this just wears the bore faster.By allowing more rock over TDC
2) Increasing inlet duration by trimming the skirt doesn't do anything to the area of the port and port area has a bigger influence on inlet than timing.You can go very wide with the bridged inlet to,and leave a radius on the leading edge of the bridge knife edges don't work.
If the skirt must be trimmed to miss the crank take the barest minimum off.
Inlet open timing I would stick to about 90-95Deg BTDC to give about 180-190 duration this is a good compromise between low and top end power.CR's run over 200deg on the inlet and load up something shocking, when out of band.
TM 125's only have 2 transfers so some tricks have to be employed to lift the delivery ratio(send me a PM about that one).With any sort of engine development it must be matched to the gearbox which I'm pleased to say looks excellent,after normalising the ratios,tis indeed a close one.The TM T port is VERY hard on rings, running a single ring pegged at the rear will overcome the T ports short comings a fair bit.
When I do pokey's barrel you can have the pipe spec if you want.
Have fun

[cyclegod]

cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.Here's why
1) It's the thrust side of the piston and doing this just wears the bore faster.By allowing more rock over TDC
2) Increasing inlet duration by trimming the skirt doesn't do anything to the area of the port and port area has a bigger influence on inlet than timing.You can go very wide with the bridged inlet to,and leave a radius on the leading edge of the bridge knife edges don't work.
If the skirt must be trimmed to miss the crank take the barest minimum off.
Inlet open timing I would stick to about 90-95Deg BTDC to give about 180-190 duration this is a good compromise between low and top end power.CR's run over 200deg on the inlet and load up something shocking, when out of band.
TM 125's only have 2 transfers so some tricks have to be employed to lift the delivery ratio(send me a PM about that one).With any sort of engine development it must be matched to the gearbox which I'm pleased to say looks excellent,after normalising the ratios,tis indeed a close one.The TM T port is VERY hard on rings, running a single ring pegged at the rear will overcome the T ports short comings a fair bit.
When I do pokey's barrel you can have the pipe spec if you want.
Have fun

The pipe spec would be very handy, thank you. 180 degrees of inlet timing was what I had planned on to start with if it could be achieved by widening and lowering the inlet port without having to pare off a mm or 2 from the piston skirt ( I have a one ring vintage wiseco with the ring peg at the rear )
I only plan on using a new 30mm carb with an adaptor/spacer plate setup similar to the RM125S, which will still fit into the stock airbox, to supply the mixture.

[Lozza]

I stuffed that up a bit the 185 has only a single exhaust window the TM 125 has the dreaded T port.There will be plenty of work to do on the exhaust side as well.With the inlet width about 3mm from the edge of the transfer cut aways in the piston will be the maximum you can go.

[Nathan S]

cyclegod can I offer some good advice? NEVER trim piston skirts especialy the inlet side.

Otherwsie standard DT125 goes a lot harder with a YZ125 piston in it? Comp ratio between pistons is apparently identical, only real difference is YZ piston has a much shorter skirt... What am I missing? PP vs reed?

[Lozza]

That DT/YZ piston swap is on a reed engine is it not? Have you weighed both?

[cyclegod]

Hey pokey, I found some cheap TS185 gasket sets...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-TS185-TS-185-TS-185-Complete-Gasket-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ017QQitemZ270155209900QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[pokey]

Super good Condition!

I love chinglish

Not a bad price either cyclegod. I have two sets already just cause i can but a third may come in handy. Its only missing the magneto side.
 i usually cut my own  as its not that much of a drama , only ones I use are head  gaskets but sometimes we do get lazy or in a hurry.

 Is a lot of good parts and many NOS parts in Thailand and malaysia all at realistic pricings.

[PEZBerq]

Hey Pokey
What brand of paint did you use on the engine - was it out of a spray can?  It looks great.

[pokey]

Hey mate. the engine was  de wasp nested in an alloy wash bath for two days then a good scrub with  a stiff nylon  brush and dings filled with  two part epoxy clay. A bit of wet N dry to smooth any inperfections .  Then she scored  a few coats of Brake caliper paint and baked under the QLD sun for a few days before  touching them.
Septone  I believe was the brand from Super Cheap. The silver which I also used on the hubs did come up a treat but im not happy with the black. If you look carefully  you will see it has a red tone to it and that wasnt my aim so those parts will be getting stripped again and painted with VHT or something thats more "Black".

[oldfart]

Bring em around and I'll blast them for you, 
Hey get down to our favorite shop as I spotted a TS 185 bottom end complete in the mini skip out back west bin south corner 

[YZ250H]

Hey Pokey,

Any chance you let us in on the epoxy clay secret???  Looks to  be the go - the engine looks really good. The whole bike looks great - a credit to you.  I know how much effort it takes to even get that far.
I know I should be over in "resto tips", but I thought I would at least get your attention here.

Cheers

[pokey]

Is no secret YZ250H, the good Doctor  put me onto it for repairing damaged barrel fins.
 That stuff you get from autoshops thats two part . Is a brand call Selley's knead it  you may know of.. almost the same stuff.
 That stuff works okay but by far the best for hardness  and strength and fine texture is Milliput.heat resistant up to 130°C.
. Its a modelers  product and is fair bit stronger  than all the others  ive tried. another modelling product  is called Greenstuff. its also an excellent  product and stickier .. cept its green  and i thought it may show thru the paint .
 Can even drill and tap the product after it cures and feels like its ceramic. .

http://www.milliput.co.uk/home.htm

[cyclegod]

Heres the stuff...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Milliput-Silver-Grey-WORLDWIDE-AUTHORISED-DEALER_W0QQitemZ220145559785QQihZ012QQcategoryZ56363QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem