Author Topic: KLX 250 roller bearing head  (Read 20910 times)

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Offline matcho mick

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #15 on: July 01, 2011, 05:06:20 pm »
wiseco piston kits 4052MO7200 KZ900/1000 10.25comp,17mm pin,i use  them in a 57 MV250 roadrace bike,pretty good piston,although wouldn't mind looking at that MTC piston too!, :P
work,the curse of the racing class!!
if a hammer dosn't fix it,you have a electrical problem!!

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #16 on: July 23, 2011, 01:41:48 am »
 I did some checking
Neither Bike Bandit nor csmnl list the C model KLX. Bike Bandit showed the three wheeler KLT to have the roller head then the KL followed suite in about 83.
 My parts bike is a B1. It came with a bunch of spare engine parts, Supposedly someone at Williams F! had built the motor.

Offline Trent Farlow

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2011, 09:11:25 am »
KLX Update - thanks for all the info over the past few months, I have finally fitted the new Wiseco 262 piston mated to a specially made up 1.5 inch diameter pipe with a Supertrapp muffler, still using the standard carb and cam . I fitted new valves, and cleaned up the ports. The bike now runs really well, pulls strong and smooth all the way through the range - feels like a different bike. Handles, turns and has power to boot.   Can anyone advise what difference a larger carb or the Megacycle cam will make and also does anyone have any recommendations with regards to optional rear shocks?  Cheers.

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2011, 08:39:32 am »
 I can't see any point in a bigger carb. The carb is the same size as a DR370 already. The KLX carb is a whopping 4mm bigger than the KL. I think they put it on knowing folks would overbore the motor. I have a non standard cam, but never having used the standard one I don't know what difference it makes.
What compression are you running? If it is the above piston I understand that you'll have to add .25 to .5 on top of the stated compression. When both my engines have got really hot they've predetonated at low revs under load until they've cooled down, so I've bought octane booster and will try that
As for shocks Honda Red Rocket ones fit and don't lose you much height or travel. 17.5" and 5.5" as against 18.25 and 5.9. I bought a set of s/h Red Rocket Ohlins, backed off the preload and they're fine
« Last Edit: September 14, 2011, 01:39:19 am by cloggy »

Offline giler

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2011, 01:56:23 am »
Have finally got a garage up ;D have mounted new rear muguard, fitted some original shocks - now to
put in vale stem seals, rings and tidy her up.

These threads tempt me, but I think I'll stay with a standard motor.
We are not here for a long time, we are here for a good time!

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #20 on: September 14, 2011, 05:36:06 am »
Where did you get the shocks from?

Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2011, 11:03:44 am »
Hey Cloggy, what size is the KLX carby?  I'm after a bigger one for my TT250 project.  Is it pumper?

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #22 on: September 14, 2011, 05:17:20 pm »
 It's a 32mm oval bore cranked slide mikuni. Superficially the same as a SP370's carb though it's lacking  that carb's additional primary fuel jet at the base of the venturi. Neither have a pumper circuit. I don't know how they flow as compared to a round bore venturi carb, but it's probably significant that the DR370/400 use much the same notional sizes as the XT500 with similar piston sizes. Although these carbs look as if they interchange it's far from simple, they are very model specific. For instance the 370 carb works happily over a wide range of tuning options, including an altered airbox. the DR400 carb [in my experience] will not tolerate the airbox being derestricted. The obvious differences, bigger body, 1mm extra bore size and only a single taper needle. That last is the killer, and the SP needle is a suzuki unavailable part, not a mikuni standard size. The USA spec DR500 used a slightly bigger carb of I think the same design, 34 or 35mm. Guys tuning XT500s tend to use a round slide aftermarket mikuni for their lack of complication and ease of tuning, rather than any possible additional power. Going bigger may make sense in road racing where peak power is important but it's not always the right way to go in offroad where a bigger carb is likely to dig holes in your midrange.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2011, 06:47:01 am by cloggy »

Offline giler

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #23 on: September 15, 2011, 03:38:27 am »
Where did you get the shocks from?

Egay in the US - good nick and seem to damp ok - won't know until I ride it obviously.
Now need to flog the MT350 shocks which didn't fit.
We are not here for a long time, we are here for a good time!

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #24 on: October 25, 2011, 02:15:55 am »
 I've got those Ohlins mt350 shocks on a standard swingarm DR400. Nice shocks but too short for a KLX. Bees Knees for a DR400 though at 16.5"
 I checked the logbook on my KLX B1. It was sold late '82. So it may well have had the roller bearing cam as standard. Also the late KL has the same engine as the early KLX, just a year or so later, just different carb and exhaust. I picked up a low mileage KL engine on ebay. Parts Book has the wrong diagram for the cam but the numbers match up

Offline grouty

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #25 on: October 28, 2011, 09:26:38 am »
The only downside looking for parts in the U.S. is that they only think the KLX ran for the "A" series. The "B" models did not feature over there. The rest of the world got the "B". UK, Germany, and OZ. The "C" model as I understand it is very rare.
I bought an 83 KL parts bike just for the motor. Trouble is, the barrel is a different shape regarding the fins. Exactly the same internally though. The rest of the motor is good for parts.
I need to find a pair of old genuine KLX shocks and experiment on rebuilding them. It must be possible to do it.
Progress on my resto has ground to a halt until we press the crank back together with it's new rod and left side main bearing.
The thread on the KLX resto is http://devongtrf.activeboard.com/t40184062/1981-klx250-rebuild/
 My time has been spent getting the 390WR husky back on the road. Along with finishing the VMX season on the CCM.
Thumpers Rule !

crankpin

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #26 on: October 28, 2011, 10:29:30 am »

AND drinking wine  ;D

Offline cloggy

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #27 on: November 01, 2011, 04:05:47 am »
 I've just checked my new KL barrel against the KLX and found that I have two types of KLX barrel; and that the KL barrel is identical to one of them. The only difference I could find was the finning just above the single barrel bolt.
 I now have 3 spare heads 
The roller head has a knackered cam lobe- cost to replace [inclusive of new rocker arms] £141 + post
The new engine has unstretched head bolts  and good rubber head seals but the head is shot, both journals and lobes. [did a lot of short field jouneys]
and lastly a spare head that I already had, bog standard and perfect.
   I'd like to keep it that way
I plan to use 0-40 Amsoil oil to get the cam lubed quickly, and I'd like to take out the tacho drive and plug the gap.
I've already done this once but the bike had already been modded with a phospor bronze bush head and an end cap in place of the tacho drive. All I did was grind off the cam tacho drive and insert plug as per instructions from this forum
  All the other heads have the tacho driven worm in place. I can't work out how to remove the tacho drive or find what end cap was used to seal the chamber from the outside world
 There appears to be no obvious way to unscrew it, a task made more problematic due to the one good head's tach drive cable threads being damaged and it not being shown in either the parts book or the workshop manual. Anyone know how it comes out?
 I suppose if all else fails I could get it machined out

Offline grouty

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2011, 07:15:50 am »
Cloggy, from memory (read.... vague !) the tach drive comes out once you have removed the washer and seal. I think I used and old "easy out" with a left hand thread to grab it and twist it out. I have only ever had one head with this drive in place, and that was many moons ago. If you don't have a plug to measure for the thread, then let me know and I will dig one out and measure it.
Or give me a ring.
There must be someone on here that has a KL250 with tacho drive to speed the process.
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Offline DOK

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Re: KLX 250 roller bearing head
« Reply #29 on: November 01, 2011, 08:06:27 am »
I am pretty sure the seal is what holds the drive in.
So all you need is to pull on the drive shaft and the whole kit and kaboodle should come out.
The tacho drive would only be in KL heads as KLX had speedo only.
There is a plug for the drive hole and you should be able to find it in the parts book.
If all else fails and you can't track one down cut the end off a tacho cable (the part that scews into the head) solder/weld the hole in the middle and you have a plug.
Personally I would leave the drive mechanism in the head. It fills the void and keeps the oil pressure up.

Thanks
DOK