Crankshaft installation tricks of the trade

[PEZBerq]

What are successful ways to reinstall the crank into the crankcase bearings if you dont have access to one of the Husky special tools for winding it in? 

The crank is quite a tight fit in the bearing inner race (hence the Husky crankcase splitter tool that jacks the crank out of the bearing).  I assume the Husky special tool was designed to pull against the bearing inner race thus avoiding loading up the bearing and possibly damaging the races.

What has worked well for people who have split the cases and reassembled them again?

Thanks

[fatboycrash]

Great question mate, I've wondered the same thing. Now if someone out there actually has the correct Huskabanana tools to do this name your tipple of choice and your cup will overfloweth!!!
FBC

[brent j]

Put the crank in the freezer and the cases in the oven at about 100 degrees.

DO NOT do this while your wife/girlfriend/mistress/mother is likely to walk in.

[PEZBerq]

Thanks

Guess I can bake a cake while I'm at it!  Hot ovens, cold freezers.....are we supposed to be mechanics or bloody chefs here? Maybe the Swedish chef from the Muppets.......

Seriously that's an idea I was wondering about - but didnt know how hot you would need to cook it.  Does that temperature difference increase the clearnaces enough for it to slide in without having to force it or does it still need persuassion? 

Guess the left hand crank seal should be OK at 100 degrees, wouldnt want to cook em much hotter (good design there Husky..NOT!). Right hand can be fitted once crank is installed.

I have designed my own jacking tool but havent had it machined up yet.  I'll give the cordon bleu method a try first.

[brent j]

I've fitted bearings to the cases of my XT500 engines this way (hot and cold) but I've had the seals out.
Put the bearings/crank in a plastic bag to stop ice forming on them.

I'd guess 100 degrees would be ok for the seals as motors do get quite hot at times. If you're worried try at about 80. I dry the bearings, after I've fitted them, with a hair dryer as condensation forms on them, especially up here. Dry the crank etc after fitting and spray with CRC or simillar. You've just fitted new bearings, look after them.

I've tried spraying CRC on the bearings before the freezer but the CRC freezes or turns really thick and makes it harder to install.

Have fun

Brent

[maicomc490t]

All good ideas.

Often you can just leave the bearing in the little bag they are shipped in to keep the ice off - just cut it off at the last minute.

As a guide heat the cases until they sizzle spit (or water if you must) licked onto the end of you finger. this means the cases have reached 100 degrees C +, which as we all know is the temperature water begins to boil (at sea level at one atmosphere of pressure etc etc).

Should you wish to install items such as valve guides or valve seats the casting usually have to be far hotter to overcome the size differential due to required interference fit (shrink fit). The best guide I have always used is to flick a finger load of water onto the casting and the water should boil as little angry spheres dancing around on the job. When you have to satisfy the requirements for a five thou shrink fit you can't muck it up and the item has to be bloody hot but don't overdo it!

Another tip to ensure some matrimonial harmony is to put foil or an old tray under the job to catch the oil and thus stop the whole oven smelling like the floor of your workshop!!!

As always I hope this helps.

Dave Mac 

[vandy010]

yep!
the good old oven and freezer trick.
one more thing, have some good heat resistant gloves on hand, for the obvious of course!
do a trial fit before freezing/heating just to help sort out any problems that may arise during the process.
have a cold beer on hand but don't open it until the jobs done.
i've never worked on a husky but have had no problems with my yammies.
cheers.

[PEZBerq]

I decided to make my own tool in the end.  The design I came up with requires nothing special to make and I thought forum readers might be interested.  Take a look at the photos and if you want more details just ask. I have a sketch I could provide.
On my 430 XC the threads on the crank were 14mm x 1mm pitch RH for the pinion gear and 12mm x 1mm pitch LH for the magneto end. The threaded rod is 25mm dia (filed down slightly so it slips through the 25mm bore double bearing to engage with the pinion end thread).  The handle and the hole through the threaded rod are needed to stop everything turning when you start cranking on the jack nut.  Easier with someone to help you hold the handle but can be done solo with some cursing. Cheers Steve

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[PEZBerq]

Another photo - 128kb limit is tough!

[PEZBerq]

Take 2!

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[fatboycrash]

Nice! Thanks mate. I have a 430 motor (1988 wr430) that I need to put back together and that tools looks the goods! Now, if I can find someone in Brisvegas I can trust to press the crank it'll be all good!
FBC

[090]

Hi Shannon, if your looking for someone to trust, look no further than Tony Bogaarts Cycle tune in Underwood. 32199777 Logan Rd. He is a champion! 

[evo550]

Fatboy,
If you don't venture over to the N.S.W. side of the river much, you can also try the Serco workshop in the Gabba, Alan used to race vintage until a little while ago and has no problem working on the more "mature" dirt bike. The work is top shelf.

[fatboycrash]

Thanks Guys.
I do know of Tony B. and yes I do hold him to be one of the best mechanics I've ever met. Last time I was there (admittedly a while back) he wasn't accepting any work because he had so much on. A fairly good recommendation! I didn't know that serco would press cranks so I'll check it out. They REALLY burnt me with some dyna ignition that they sold me about a year ago and once bitten twice shy kinda thing...
FBC

[vandy010]

i've used Ron Russ for my cranks and rebores, top quality and a true gentleman,
he's at greenslopes in brisbane.