Author Topic: Cylinder Honing.  (Read 7688 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Lozza

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 4206
    • View Profile
Re: Cylinder Honing.
« Reply #15 on: February 28, 2009, 05:23:50 pm »
Biggest cause of premature wear (on 2T) is incorrect dressing of the port windows.The hot soap wash works very well and definantly removes fine grit leftover from the stones. I normaly just smear with oil after this.
Jesus only loves two strokes

Offline pancho

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 2375
    • View Profile
Re: Cylinder Honing.
« Reply #16 on: March 02, 2009, 05:44:03 pm »
lozza i must point out that that your by-line makes an incorrect claim! quote from King James Bible."THE LORD RODE FORTH [not fourth] ON HIS TRIUMPH"! four strokes rule since biblical times! cheers wally.
dont follow me i'm probably off line!

Offline Lozza

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 4206
    • View Profile
Re: Cylinder Honing.
« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2009, 07:41:42 pm »
Not being an eclesiastical expert Wally but I think the next line says "BEFORE HE BROKETH DOWN,AND CAUGHT FIRE"   ;D
Jesus only loves two strokes

OSSA PHANTOM

  • Guest
Re: Cylinder Honing.
« Reply #18 on: March 06, 2009, 09:55:10 pm »
 A cylinder hone has four stones and a micrometer adjustment. Your three stone "hone" is a glaze breaker,
used to break the oilf glaze from the cylinder wall. Your hone will just follow your cylinder's out of round bore and will only make it worse. Use a honing oil not kerosene.

Offline Maicojames

  • A-Grade
  • ****
  • Posts: 321
    • View Profile
Re: Cylinder Honing.
« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2009, 02:30:24 am »
Always took to a pro to hone to size( I thought that given the small increases for oversizes on most of our old 2 strokes that a boring bar was not always used).

  Unless you have a large fleet of machines, it makes no cost sense to not use a pro IMO. I have carefully used a ball hone to cross hatch for re-ring-very slow speed-and I always clean in solvent tank thoroughy, wash with hot soapy water, spray with WD-40-blow dry, spray with WD-40-and do the clean towel procedure described above. I think next time, I'll try the wet and dry paper , but wrap it on a "soft block"-autobody sanding block for color sanding with fine grits, so as to not get finger gouges.

BTW a few years back had a bloke come to store looking for a hone for chrome bore on a late CR 2 stroke. On chrome bores, I always just cleaned it and reassembled-also no real "break -in" prcedure on these. As soon as the coated 2stroke oil burned off clean-ready to run. Maybe not right, but I had no problems .
James
Life is suddenly very Monaro