Author Topic: 1983 CR480 Rear Sag Settings  (Read 2030 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Tahitian_Red

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1109
  • Mugen ME480
    • View Profile
1983 CR480 Rear Sag Settings
« on: February 04, 2009, 07:51:39 am »
Where do you guys set your rear suspension sag at on your 1983 CR480?

Anyone ever try 105-110mm?
The "Factory Novice"
California, USA

'74 Suzuki TM100, '75 Bultaco 250 Pursang, '77 Honda XR75, '77 Suzuki RM125B, '77 Yamaha YZ400D, '79 Honda CR250RZ Moto-X Fox Replica, '83 Honda ME480RD Mugen

Re: 1983 CR480 Rear Sag Settings
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2009, 09:03:24 am »
every time i see sag referred to in mags etc its never more than 100mm.  i do know from the amount of times they talk about it that's its fairly useful to have your sag in ballbark of this.....but always get mixed up what the effect would be of having more or less.....hmm....let me think about it....race sag is the diff between static sag (bike off stand) and sag with your lump on it......so having 105mm sag would mean the rear sits.....down more....so loads the front end less....(??)....so might mean less front end grip in corners and stuff....which is....not good???

Offline bultokid

  • Novice
  • *
  • Posts: 13
    • View Profile
Re: 1983 CR480 Rear Sag Settings
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2009, 09:32:00 am »
Red, I always shoot for the magical 100-105mm mark and the 480 turns sharp.

Re: 1983 CR480 Rear Sag Settings
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2009, 11:21:07 am »
someone kindly flamed me offline rather than publicly (nice) that race sag is actually the diff between the length from axle to mudguard with the bike ON the stand and from axle to mudguard off the stand with rider onboard.

the mxa etc test riders go on about how good a 3mm sag change is (or 3mm drop in fork height or fork oil height or dropping one tooth off rear sprocket or next leaner/richer jet) but for 'us', we'd never notice the difference.  just get in around 100mm and forget it.  and - hot tip - another useful set-and-forget is take back shock off and make some sort of a mark on the bike to mark how much chain slack is needed at its longest point to ensure pressure not put on countershaft bearing (when there's no slack).  i don't know how often i turn up at a starting line to see guys' chains at full stretch when seated on the bike.