still have timing problems

[Kiwi]

I have tried the timing back to almost tdc still kicking back through the kickstarter but I don't want to break another one. I have put a link to the photo. maybe iv'e done something wrong? I put some 1.4 solder into the squishband it dosn't touch. This motor has the cutaway crankshaft weights and a tiny aluminium rotor, no big ignition flywheel so everything must have to be spot on for it to start. if anybody knows someone in sydney area who could sort it out i would gladly pay to have it done. I've had enough.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnHapi821Z5uwDwW6
At the red mark in the photo is where tdc is

Thanks Kiwi

[pokey]

22 BTDC

http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=36532.0

[Noel]

Just a thought

I noticed that there seems to be to sets of marks on stator,
just wondering if because cz's ignitions on right hand side , are you using correct marks?

[Momus]

You could try this method, it's helped me. Using a timing strobe light with the spark plug out, and the bike on a stand, get a friend to turn the back wheel. Make a mark on the stator or other stationary place that corresponds to the mark on the rotor as she fires. This should tell you the correct alignment of the rotor/stator for spark at idle speed.
Line the marks up and using a probe down the plug hole relate the lined up marks to piston position. As a rough guide if the piston is 1.5 to 2.0 mm from top centre on the up stroke she will fire and run. If it's out you usually move the rotor on the crank to align the marks with your BTDC figure and ignore any key in the crank.

[tony27]

I think Noel might be on to something, is it possible that the timing is 90deg out? When I built the Suzuki ignition on my 380 I had similar problems & it turned out to be out by a lot, the late Tony Lagor came around with a strobe light & we found where the igniton fired then added marks which we used to get the timing in the right place
With the 2 sets of mounting slots I'd try using the other set & corresponding mark to see what happens

[Kiwi]

im using the line that has the arrow pointing clockwise the line with the arrow going anti clockwise puts the the wires right at the bottom i've ordered a degree wheel and timing light of amason and are probably going to remove the locating pin on the crankshaft my husky with mbz the rotor just locks on the taper..anybody know if these ignitions have a digital advance thats doing my head in as well it may advance 22 degrees at high revs but needs to be set lower at startup speeds.be good if these came with good fitting instuctions.

[Momus]

What model/serial number is on the stator?

There were a lot of unsuitable PVLs sold as generic units.

[bazza]

Did you buy off individual or a "shop"? They would need to provide good instructions like my BSA "electrix" unit takes few minutes and away.
May be wrong unit for your model?

[Kiwi]

brought from etover have emailed them to see if they can put me onto someone who has fitted one .it is a vape formaly mzb not pvl. ps. not expecting a reply from etover good to deal with but probably no tech help.

[Tony.Brown]

Hi Kiwi, if your picture shows how you have timed your engine, I believe the red line should be on the other side of the stator timing mark, before the line as the engine rotates. It appears that your ignition is firing after TDC.
I agree with the timing light method, first find where the spark is happening, and if you have to, mark both your stator and flywheel to suit, if it has an auto retard for starting, time it at zero BTDC and get it running, then with your timing light you will be able to see the advance take place as you rev it.
If it has no advance, time your rotor to the left of the line.
I hope that makes sense, and this is assuming that your photo is how you've timed it.
Tony.