DT1 clutch push revisited / update.

[John Orchard]

Sorry to have to bring up this subject again, I did a lot of searching on the site, there were two options suggested for a replacement for the DT/RT1,2,3 clutch push mechanism

RD250LC - 4L0-16340-01 & GSX600F - 23200-31300

Who has tried what and what finally worked-out to be the best option? I have broken the plastic worm-drive, plus its holder (with adjustment screw & locknut) is bent out of shape.

I have money ready for Express Post, I have rebuilt the bike, just need this part so I can test; I'm getting a bit amped to try  ;-)

[sleepy]

If you have a stock cover and are able to straighten the stock actuator then the bronze is the simplest way. The RD actuators requires machining of the cover to fit the mechanism. I have not tried the RD style but have the bronze worm in my road registered RT3 and have no problems with the lever pull even in heavy stop start traffic. They claim the RD bits make the clutch pull lighter but so does lengthening the arm on the stock actuator.

[OverTheHill]

RD350 or XS650 are 4 start type & work a treat. I used on on one of my relic--since sold the bike. Funny thing is i tried googling for a pic of the RD type & though Oh that looks just like mine [It Is mine haha]. So here's a link to the page. [I'm RT325 on that forum]. Re-lengthening the arm on original type [or any type] ok that'll make it lighter to pull but the amount of pull is less. [in my humble opinion] you're better off with a nice new top quality lubed cable & the RD type actuator. I made a pigs ear of fitting mine & fitted it all through from the outside & is retained by the little cover so it pushes against the cover. Works perfect but it's a cock up. Hope link works as looks like i put a few pics down the page. Ebay pic must have been just a random one for sale at the time 2017 i think.
https://www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forum/1968-71-badge-bikes/6598-rt1-clutch-actuator-fix

[Wasp]

On my 998 engines I always had my own activator on right side of the engine to run a solid gear shaft. Now I am restoring my original XS 650 to original condition with push rod going through the gear shaft  .( Activator on left side of engine) I found this new activator , low cost and very effective . I use much stronger springs than standard and it still pulls easy , as well as disengaging perfectly . https://www.geoffsxs.com.au/OpenCart/index.php?route=product/product&path=3_22&product_id=660

[John Orchard]

Thanks Morley, l've seen your RT325 come up lots of times in my searches. I've got a Suz GSXR600 unit coming for me to inspect; they are only $50 brand new for both the male and female parts!

[dont]

On my 998 engines I always had my own activator on right side of the engine to run a solid gear shaft. Now I am restoring my original XS 650 to original condition with push rod going through the gear shaft  .( Activator on left side of engine) I found this new activator , low cost and very effective . I use much stronger springs than standard and it still pulls easy , as well as disengaging perfectly . https://www.geoffsxs.com.au/OpenCart/index.php?route=product/product&path=3_22&product_id=660

Have you, anyone, an idea of how much modification would be necessary to fit this xs650 unit to dt1/2/3?

[Wasp]

I can send you pic of the 650 unit , but I have no idea about the DT as far as engines go .

[John Orchard]

I went to order the GSX item (23200-31300) from Mick Hone,the Parts Guy suggested a GSXR600 item that all the GSX guys change to, cost me $53,it included the inner & outer parts,and has a steel worm-drive.

Took me an arvo to fit it, works great !  I had to grind-out the old alloy worm-drive in the casing, mounted it inside the case, just had to concoct some idea to hold the outer cap in place.

[dont]

I can send you pic of the 650 unit , but I have no idea about the DT as far as engines go .

I'll have a closer look at the dt and compare the picture in your link (i saved the link). If it looks good I'll msg you and get some dimensions would be great. Thanks.