Rounded hex bolt

[craigclayton]

I'm trying to strip down the forks on my 125 b, one of the hex bolts is completely rounded out and the other won't budge!. Tried using a rattle gun(18v battery type) but nothing 
Any tips !!!!!!

[Tomas]

Drill the bolts out clean the  threads and replace with new ones. Not sure about using rattle gun on motorcycles or cars.

[pokey]

Shock the bolt with a drift and large hammer to allow the thread to move a little. next will be drilling the bolt centre out and using an ezi out. Dont break the ezi out as they are a pain
alternatively you can drill out everything but the thread and grind down most of the back from a hacksaw blade and cut two slots through the thread top and bottom and then pin punch the remainder to the centre.

[mick25]

I've had success with welding a new nut to the bolt if you can .
The heat helps the sucker out to .

[Slakewell]

Try and search the forum there are many tips. The biggest one is Worth roost off , buy a can and it will love yahh.
If you can weld a new nut or even just some flat steel to the nut and use a shifter. Place a nice washer over it first.

[LWC82PE]

Because the 125 forks have a male end on the damper rod, it really pays to have the correct tool to hold it. I have managed to get them undone without holding the rod but boy it was hard work. The correct tool makes it so much easier. This is the correct fitting to hold the damper rod. Use with a long 3/8' extension.

09940-34570 cost about $23 or something from Suzuki. Was not much

[Oldfart]

What part are you talking of that has a Hex bolt ... the triple clamps

[LWC82PE]

I thought it was the allen hex bolt at base of the forks. That's the one that causes the trouble most times.

[craigclayton]

Yes it's the little sucker at the bottom of the fork leg

[pokey]

ive never needed a rattle gun  and dont particularly like them and i dont own nor want an impact driver. for forks i just apply pressure to the forks so they compress then give the allen key a good hard wack and it always comes loose.  if some one has actually taken the advice from the suzuki manual and actually applied loctite  to the screw then heat  kills loctite. You my friend if the allen bolt is stuffed could well do with chasing up the correct suzuki fork tool  that goes inside the fork  that LWC82PE mentioned and try that way.

[Oldfart]

If the Allen head is rounded on the inside .... you have two choices  fark around using an easy out, or mig weld a bolt onto it   ( head face out )... two things happen here, heat is applied to allen thread to loosen it up and you are able to hold turn it.
This may take a couple of attempts depending on your welding skills
the same thing is down when you break a head off a bolt ....put a washer under a nut, mig the centre ( fill with weld )  let it cool down ... 90 % of the time it will come out.
 

[craigclayton]

Hex nuts out:))
Took to motorcycle mechanic, he heated hex nut then hammered a torque drive into it. Then used air gun to turn out, said was pretty easy. Top man ??

[80-85 husky]

my thoughts too for that.

I found over time ive had to rattle gun out the damper bolt on several occasions (Mainly on jappers for some reason) but I usually find the bolt has a real good dose of locktite etc as the PO has decided that the forks parting company in mid air is his worst nightmare and dips the bolt in goo on reinstallation.. if it doesn't come undone as per Pokey's method, get a good rattler straight on to it before you bugger the head up.

[mick25]

Lock wire is my best friend I drill bolts to lock wire I've lost count how many bikes I see racing around with stingers flopping around with the rider not aware and rear guards flaping in the wind.
I've seen two bikes in our club loseing  both forks at once going over jumps where the bolts fell out of the forks and the other bike the circlips came off .
Ouch .

[80-85 husky]

it happens....

lockwire has been replaced with Loctite, silicon and nylocs..(so far so good...)