Conversion from Points Ignition to Electronic. Worth it?

[Bruno1969]

My 76 Adolph Weil is still running the points ignition and I am wondering whether a conversion to a modern electronic ignition is worth the money.

Bike starts easily, one kick when its hot. It idles fine and goes okay - not that I have any point of reference.

What advanatges are there to running a mod ignition and is there any increase in perfomance?

[Bruno1969]

Okay, so now it looks like the points ignition is finally past it's best.

Bike is running badly now, mis firing and running hot. Cleaned the carb out, thinking blocked jet etc, but that didnt cure the problem. Can obnly be the ignition and tiem to bite the bullet - whats the ebst electrnic ignition to get? 

[sleepy]

You probably just need a new condensor and a reset of the points and timing.
The electronics conversions I have seen seem to work ok for a while but still are not without their failures and when they stop at the track it's put it back on the trailer. Atleast with an original most of the time you can repair/ change pionts , condensor at the track and get going again.
The engine performance would be little different between to old and new.
If you are not skilled enough to maintain the point or know someone that can go electronic.

[Bruno1969]

Thanks for that. I will check the coil at the same time and wire in a new condensor. Have plenty experince working with points having a few old Pommie bikes!

[Turtle.Inc]

Points are definately easier to maintain and lot less expensive, I am still running them in old faithful (69 square barrel Maico) and never let me down, running PVLs in everything else including 77 AW and been ok as well, only problem is they are designed to  work on a high rev output approx. 12000 rpm and the maicos just don't rev that hard. Also when they pack it in, the bike is straight in the back of the ute

[Bruno1969]

TRook the plunge and bought a complete electronic kit. Reading the instructions it seems easy enough to fit, but there is no such thing as fool pro9of because fools are so damn ingenious!

[Bruno1969]

Ran into my first problem...how do I pull the internal rotor off the main shaft? What type of puller do I need? I tried a three legged puller with the centre point on the 8mm bolt......but all that happened is that bolt bent?

Do I knew more brute force or more brian force?

[2 shocks]

Did you undo the grub screw on the side of the brass rotor ??

[Bruno1969]

Yeah, i did.

Still bloomin tight.  It looks like I need to screw an M8 bolt in, all the way so that it picks ups the thread in the end of the main shaft not so?

[sleepy]

You need a smaller straight rod to go in then an 8 mm bolt to push on it. The rod fits down inside and bottoms out in crank. I could measure one if needed tommorrow.

The screw in the side only locates on the keyway and does not hold the rotor on.

[Bruno1969]

That would be a great help Sleepy!

We have round two of our local VMX series here in SA on Saturday and i dont fancy using the points again!

[sleepy]

I had a quick look at my Maico puller at it uses a 6mm pin about 54mm long and a normal 8mm blot to push on it.
The shank of a long 6mm HT bolt is a good thing to use. Just drop in the pin do up the bolt and give it a little tap on the end and it should come of.

[Bruno1969]

SUCCESS!

Thanks Sleepy!

[Bruno1969]

Okay - my observations so far, based on blasting up and down suburban roads.

Little harder to start (but I also fiddled with the jetting by going smaller on the pilot jet) and doesnt idle as smoothly as the old points set up but pulls much harder, revs cleaner and by the seat of my pants dyno, makes more power!

Racing on Saturday so that will be the proper proof

[Bruno1969]

Just answered my question!

After this weekends racing, i can say tghis was the singke best two hundred Euro I have ever spent! It has simply TRANSFORMED the bike, it revs freely and pulls really hard throughout the rev range!

Essy to easy to fit and set up too!