warped clutch plates - how bad is too bad?

[Graeme M]

Just replacing the fibre plates on the IT175 and decided to check the steels. Manual says .002" warp is the limit, and fortunately most are within that. But one is not, it's about .004". You can definitely see it when on a glass sheet. The question is, does that matter so much? I changed the fibres because I was getting a little slip, but maybe it's the warped steel that was doing that? No signs of any blueing or whatever on the steels and everything looks nice and tidy.

My guess is they'll be fine, and maybe put the warped one right at the front of the clutch pack?

[Stewart Allen]

I've never checked the steels for warpage if the clutch was operation OK. I'd put it in.

[tony27]

Warped plates normally cause dragging not slipping

[Tim754]

Agree, whack it on and if the slippage is gone Taa Daa! if not change the "warped" plate.  Clutch plate warp tolerance specs in manuals is one of few things I disregard as a farce designed to sell you unnecessary new items. Do tension down to the advised specs and avoid ragged and shagged out nut lock plates.
Do you need a clutch basket holding tool ? I usually make one out of an old plate with a piece of shaped rod welded on, for the handle, once made lasts forever and looks professional hanging on the wall with the other 38 that don't fit this size clutch , you have made over the years  ....  

[JohnnyO]

Warped plates normally cause dragging not slipping

Exactly!

[FourstrokeForever]

If the steel hasn't got any bluing on it Graeme, it should be fine. Bluing is a sign of friction heat.
I have another way of making a clutch holding tool. All you need is an old steel and a fibre. Simply place them in the basket, steel first and drill 4 small pilot holes through the fibre and just enough to leave a mark on the steel. Remove and drill through the steel. Next, choose your size rivet and drill to that size. Rivet together and there you have a clutch locking tool.

[Graeme M]

Thanks for all the advice - I reckon I'll just run with it and see how it goes. And neat trick Mark, I'll keep that one in mind!

[sleepy]

If you are going to re-use the steels get them bead blasted before they go back in. After they have been in use for some time they get glazed which gives them less grip and also seems to make the oil stick to surface as well. The glass bead brakes down the glaze and the clutch will work again. Best result I have seen using this method was a GPZ900 that would savagely clunk into gear and creap forward without the brakes on to being so smooth you could hardly tell that it had gone onto gear.

[80-85 husky]

a quick once over with some 240# paper and a bit of kero will also do a cheap deglazing.

[FourstrokeForever]

a quick once over with some 240# paper and a bit of kero will also do a cheap deglazing.

Yes, it does the trick. I actually glass mine though. Tape some 240 wet n dry to a sheet of glass and use figure 8 pattern to clean up the plates. It's a great way to remove any high spots as well.