Author Topic: First bottom end Rebuild  (Read 5176 times)

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Offline JIM77

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Re: First bottom end Rebuild
« Reply #15 on: October 08, 2013, 09:02:11 pm »
Have two of those but the heating capacity is just not there and very slow and tends to be unreliable as far as expanding the case. The heat source is concentrated whereas the oven brings everything up to the same temperature together so less chance of distortion. But whatever works for you.

I use heat guns more for electrical cable repairs or where a concentrated 'non flame' heat source is required

Distortion?     

dis·tort  (d-stôrt)
tr.v.dis·tort·ed, dis·tort·ing, dis·torts
1. To twist out of a proper or natural relation of parts; misshape.
2. To give a false or misleading account of; misrepresent.
3. To cause to work in a twisted or disorderly manner; pervert.

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[Latin distorqure, distort- : dis-, apart; see dis- + torqure, to twist; see terkw- in Indo-European roots.]

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I am obviously referring to definition 1 where uneven heating of press fit components can cause distortion. when heated evenly in an oven the bearings usually just fall out. If a heat gun works for you then that is fine.

I think that was what my Manual getting at with the direct heat option messing with the case hardening and I'm assuming distortion.

Mind you, all the youtube videos on bottom end rebuilds use a torch and direct heat without issue.

Offline 80-85 husky

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Re: First bottom end Rebuild
« Reply #16 on: October 09, 2013, 07:11:07 pm »
Heat guns are fine until you stick a bearing then the oven looks real good. ive used the barby with the drop down lid on a second hot plate to avoid 1 sided heating..

barbys make their own covering smell....

Offline Tim754

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Re: First bottom end Rebuild
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2013, 10:42:09 pm »
A friend of my father used to curry parts for his triumphs in the oven while his wife was at church, cooking a good stove enamel provided the perfect covering smell .



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