klx250 std pist/ring part #

[TT5 Matt]

does anyone know what the part nunbers are for a std klx250 piston and rings and maybe piston pin?there alot old of kawi stock at the local wreckers here and id like to get some parts off him if the nunbers match

[ty4]

think i may have some in the shed Matt will look later when it cools down

cheers

tony

[ty4]

got a std piston no rings or pin though

42 degrees in the shed at 8.30 pm and for some reason my Kwacka disc is on strike so can't help with the numbers

tony

[TT5 Matt]

pm sent Tony,ive worked in sheds at 55c all summer painting my val vj 265 ute at a panel beater mates  shop and then walked home 2kays 7 days a week,i sure was fit after that summer

[cloggy]

Standard piston  13001-1005
20+                  13029-1003
40+                  13027-1005

Piston pin          13002-022

standard ring set13008-1001
20+                  13025-1001
40+                  13024-1001

piston circlip      92036-021

[TT5 Matt]

hi Cloggy
thanks for all the part nunbers,thanks to Tony ty4 ive got a new std piston so just got to get the other bits and new barrel on ebay.can you still get all the top end gaskets and seals etc from kawasaki or do i have to go after market on those?

[cloggy]

 Yea they are all available. Should be as the quad almost certainly uses the same parts. Very expensive though. I check the condition of the rubber seals and if they are still in good nick I no longer replace them. It has been said that the head bolts stretch and they do, but rather than replace them you can just put washers under the caps. Really if they are not grounding out, I can't see why they shouldn't be ok, but then I'm no great shakes as a mechanic. I would check the pre filter strainer though, it can clog up; oh and use nothing more heavy than a 10-40. I use 0-40 amsoil. The head oiling is dodgy and you need the oil to flow freely  through the cam to the journal when cold.
 Some markets didn't get the tacho worm drive. If yours has just got a cap bolt, chances are there's no worm drive in the head and there is a plug to be made for resultant empty chamber.
Derail has  a thread for this, though personally I can't see the point in taking out the tacho if it is there. Just check all the KLX threads and make your own mind up.

[TT5 Matt]

hi again Cloggy
thanks for the advice on these motors,yeah ill check everything i can find out abouut them and do what i think is bestade for enough years now.theres a complete kl motor at the scrappies that shouldnt cost too much so might get that for spare parts as always good to have a few on hand

[cloggy]

 Late model KLs are identical to KLXs. Grouty thinks the finning might be different but I have two different types of barrel finning on KLX engines. The very last KLs had roller heads that fit straight on. The casting, cam, and camsprocket differ, that's all as far as I can see. Everything else is interchangable [they're not Hondas]

[grouty]

The finning is a slightly different shape on the 82 on KL250's. The corners are angled at 45 degrees rather than curving around like the earlier ones. I have a complete 82 motor in the shed that I took out of a KL on a "Y" plate (UK registration year) that is like this. Otherwise they are identical.
Beware of using the cylinder bolts more than twice. I have some old ones that are a good 10mm longer than new ones. They are designed as stretch bolts. They are still available new from Kawasaki dealers.
The roller heads from a later model are a great idea. It gets rid of the main reliability issue. Namely the large steel to alloy bearing face that can wear faster than warm fingers on chocolate if it gets starved of oil for a second. I have just fitted a megacycle needle roller cam in mine. This has the needle rollers both ends and a modified oiling system to feed it. Setting the cam timing was a pain, but I got there in the end.

[ty4]

the head from a Z 250 C road bike will give you the roller bearing cam as well, ports may be smaller from memory but that can be fixed

should be found at any scrap yard

cheers 
tony

[TT5 Matt]

 found at the scrappies a complete kl250 motor with electrics but sneezed piston rings due to open ports for $15 so got to be some good bits inside of that worth keeping.they didnt match port the inlet manifold to the inlet tract very well either but the manifold is still quite soft.

[grouty]

The KL250 valves are 1mm smaller in diameter. Perfectly interchangable with a careful bit of seat grinding. I have used both and noticed no difference at all.
Just picked up a 81-83 KL250 workshop manual. All 250 odd pages of it. 80% of it is the same as the KLX motor. Excellent find methinks.

[cloggy]

 I thought I'd checked the late KLX/KL and found the valve part nos to be the same, but that may not be so. KL went electronic with changed  sidecover, so eveything internally below there is I think the same.
 Carb is different. I think I checked the Roller cam valves and they were again the same. A look at part nos on www.cmsnl.com will  reveal all; that's where I checked. Bike Bandit appears to have deleted many early models.
 Sorted my swingarm with £2 ouruk surplus stock spacers, and standard needle bearings. The KDX400 uses the same arm and has two more bearing systems but just about everything is not available