Author Topic: Running in oil  (Read 1520 times)

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Offline head

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Running in oil
« on: April 08, 2011, 04:29:37 pm »
I have just built a XR500 motor, Do I run it in with good full synthetic Motoul 300v or use a straight 30 weight mineral oil, or is there any other recomendations out there?  Motor pretty well has new everything. I have heard that rings won't bed in with the synthetic, myth or true?
Cheers Neil

Offline matcho mick

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2011, 04:49:57 pm »
geezas,we've been through this before!!,DON"T RUN GOOD OIL IN newly rebuilt MOTOR (4 stroke folks),not a myth,you will glaze the bore,cheapest multigrade coles/woolies,just run it,couple tanks,don't labour,don't over rev,just flex it,drop it out hot!,run some more,couple 100 ks should do it,filter change then put your good stuff in,hth, :P
ps like stated before, Penrite does a running in oil
work,the curse of the racing class!!
if a hammer dosn't fix it,you have a electrical problem!!

Offline LWC82PE

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2011, 05:23:17 pm »
I always use Penrite running in oil. I highly advise against prolonged use of supermarket non detergent type cheap oil eg Black and Gold. They wont remove deposits and leave the motor dirty inside. Then when you go to use a really good oil with detergents it lifts all the deposts, sends it through everything and will destroy the motor. Ive seen it happen several times before. Just dont fall into the trap of sticking to the cheap oil is all im trying to say because one day it might come back and bite you. After running in you could use Penrite Enduro which is really good for big bore bikes like that.
Wanted - 1978 TS185 frame or frame&motor. Frame # TS1852-24007 up to TS1852-39022

Offline matcho mick

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2011, 08:37:50 pm »
ffs,hullo,NEW REBUILT MOTOR,read the post guys,Walter one word,lubricity,(use the oil you will run later,fugging good luck with that), LCW ,XR500's protected by oil filter,dirty engines caused by cold oil changes,sediments/contaminates not in suspension, :P
work,the curse of the racing class!!
if a hammer dosn't fix it,you have a electrical problem!!

Offline LWC82PE

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2011, 09:53:06 pm »
Ok I will tell you a true story. Some one I know had a 1987 TT250, he always ran cheapo oil in it that didn’t ever have any dispersants in it. From memory it was indeed ‘Black & Gold’ brand. He was then sold some good brand name oil, did a oil filter change with the new oil. He wasn’t aware that that the new modern ‘quality’ oil would drag up all the deposits in the motor and send them through everything. Very shortly after the motor was well and truelly stuffed. No joke, it was beyond rebuilding and the bike was wrecked. That is not the first and only case of that happening to an engine also. There are some ‘good’ brands of oil that offer a range of specifc oil for older engines that have never been rebuild and are not needing to be rebuilt, imparticular vintage and verteran cars/bikes. These oils do not have any detergents in them so it will not lift all the deposits left in there from using non detergent oils back in the day. If you were to however rebuild and clean the engine out you could run a newer modern oil. Yes I realise this XR is a rebuilt motor but I thought I would just mention this about using non detergent oils as it may prevent someone from stuffing up an engine oneday ;)
Wanted - 1978 TS185 frame or frame&motor. Frame # TS1852-24007 up to TS1852-39022

Offline matcho mick

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2011, 10:29:50 pm »
NEW CHROME 4-1 EXHAUST.
NEW COILS WITH PERIOD PLUG CAPS.
I REBUILT THE ENGINE WITH NEW PISTONS .75mm OVERSIZE AND HAVE ONLY DONE 543KMS BUT IT HAS BECOME SMOKEY FOR SOME UNKNOWN REASON. IT STILL RUNS FINE WITH NO ABNORMAL NOISES AND THE GEARBOX AND CLUTCH WORKS PERFECT. I FITTED NEW CAM CHAIN GUIDES AND VALVE STEM SEALS IN THE HEAD AND HAD THE HEAD SKIMMED WHEN I DID ALL OF THIS BUT IM NOT SURE WHY IT HAS BECOME SMOKEY.
I HAVE A SPARE SET OF CYLINDERS WITH PISTONS AND RINGS TO GO WITH IT.
YOU COULD RIDE THE BIKE AS IS IF YOU WANTED BUT IM JUST BEING HONEST. I DONT HAVE THE PATIENCE AT THE MOMENT TO PULL IT DOWN TO FIND OUT WHY THIS HAS HAPPENED.
I REBUILT THE 4 CARBIES AS WELL.
I HAVE SPENT THOUSANDS ON THIS BIKE AND IT LOOKS TOPS WITH ITS CUSTOM PAINTED BRAND NEW 400/4 TANK AND SIDE COVERS. NORTON STYLE HONDA WRITING ON THE TANK AND THEN CLEAR COATED OVER.
REGO UNTIL AUGUST 2011
I KNOW IM GOING TO TAKE A BIG LOSS BUT SOMEONE ELSE CAN HAVE FUN WITH IT NOW.
$1 NO RESERVE AUCTION.
BID TO BUY NOT TO LOOK.
CAL
BIKE IS LOCATED IN WOOLOOWARE (NEAR CRONULLA NSW)
CASH ON PICKUP



i wonder what oil he used to run it in ::)
work,the curse of the racing class!!
if a hammer dosn't fix it,you have a electrical problem!!

Offline Davey Crocket

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Re: Running in oil
« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2011, 11:01:37 pm »
I dont use "cheapie" oils on new engines...the valve lift and spring tensions these days are pretty high,one of the secrets is to dump the oil out after a short period to get all the foriegn contamimantes out ASAP. If you've seen what they do to brand new engines at the factory when they start them you would shit yourself....run em in hard to a point....dont baby em and dont let it idle for long....that'ill kill it for sure.
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