RM250T rear shocks what do I do?

[Tornado]

I have a set of period Ohlins that are 15mm shorter eye to eye than the original KYB resivoir shocks (of which at this stage I dont have a pair of). I have a workmate who used to rebuild these things for a living and has offered to help in getting them right in exchange for some fabrication work.

Question - do I worry about 15 mm on the rear end or get the right length?

I am 5'9" and Kent Howerton has never heard of me and probably never will.

[frostype400]

You can buy different length eyelets depending on what are on them there are different lengths I think you can order them through here.

http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/page/page/3737813.htm

keep an eye on ebay us too.

[JohnnyO]

Steve Cramer has the different length eyelets in stock otherwise pull them apart and quite often they have a spacer inside that can be removed to gain extra length.

[Tornado]

Thanks, will call Cramers tomorrow,they are 79-80 era bronze remote reservoir suckers. Failing that I just realised I have some Works Performance shocks with dual rate springs that are about 397mm. However the Ohlins will be the perfered option.

Thanks again for the tip.

[LWC82PE]

Measure your eye length from where the shaft enters the eye to the center of the eyeley. This is the length.

Ohlins eyes come in

26 - 00125-02
29.5 - 00125-4
33 - 00125-06
46.5 - 00125-08
52.5 - 00125-10
68 - 00125-12 - (note this has 17mm thread depth, all others have 10mm)

all lengths in mm's.  part number is listed after the dimension. All eyes aluminium, and suit 22mm OD bearings or rubber bushes. There are other lengths but the above 6 are the most common for the vintage shocks.

My advice, get quote on price first if you want the best deal . This place is very cheap http://www.moto-services.net/categories.php?cat=24 as well as Husqvarna parts listed above by Frosty.

[Tornado]

looks like 26mm from where shaft enters base of eye housing to centre of eyeley (this is the bush location hole -yeah?) so I have plenty of room to move.-Thanks for the tip on shopping.As I recall I only ever got one thing from SCP and even at staff price I had to save up!  Worked with Grant Cramer for years-hes the funny one. Anyone got colour pics of these shocks as they should look? what colour springs etc.

I guess the same as these?  bronze all over with black springs? or were one of the dual rate springs on each side a different colour?

http://www.husqvarnaoutlet.com/vintage_suspension

[LWC82PE]

Yeah your measuring it right, but you should also check out your shaft travel too. No point using the shocks if they don’t have enough for your bike.

Colour can be what ever you want but the correct colour is bronze or on some early Huskys they where black and ive seen some later early 80’s which were more of a red/moroon colour. Most people just go with the copper/bronze colour.

Springs were different colours. As OEM fitments they were often a colour that matched the bike eg Canams had orange but when you ordered after market springs they were different colours colour coded by a painted stripe to ID the rate.

Just depended on what bike and what rate springs. There was no set rule that said the short springs were one colour and the long ones another colour. pretty much pick the colours you want that suits your bike. A lot of people chose to now paint them black, yellow and blue.

New Ohlins springs are now Yellow & Black and the rates are printed on.

I have got stacks of photos but dont have time to post any. Just search on here or look through VMX mag to see what other guys ahave done or just do a Google 'image' search for Ohlins shocks or Ohlins remote reserervoirs or whatever and you will find some photos.

Yes that link looks about right, colour doesnt look quite right but it gives you an idea. There were different colour sticker designs too. Just get talking to Phillip at Husqvarna-parts.com and he will help you out

[Tornado]

Thanks mate , will do. Keep you posted.

Tex

[Davey Crocket]

Mr Tornado, I have the same model bike and I get dizzy on it  it's that tall (and I'm 6ft)...I am going to lower the bike and I reckon it will go around corners better and be a better bike overall. If I was you I would try it with the shorter shock lenght first and see how you go. You will need to do some major work with the forks aswell as they are way too soft....Food for thought anyway.

[JohnnyO]

Davey i agree with what you're saying, they are too high in the rear standard. I ran half inch shorter shocks on my RM250T and harder fork springs, they have a real downward feel in the front otherwise.

[suzuki27]

I agree with the other two. 15mm less won't hurt at all. I've got a 250T and had a few shocks on it over the years and they are a better bike to ride when shortened a bit. The forks were designed to run air standard which is good but trying to find a pair(especially the right leg) that still hold air is the hard part- they have a pressed/fixed bushing that wears eventually and will let the air escape. You can try stiffer springs and oil but they are still sub-standard. The 82(not sure about 81) forks are still 38mm but designed to run no air standard and are a good fork for this bike- amongst others.

[Tornado]

Opened up the Ohlins and they had 15mm spacers in them-so I got my wish. sounds like a will need the suzuki step ladder then. Whats the part no#?

[shelpi]

 ;)THE PART NUMBER FOR A OEM NOS RM250T 1980 LADDER IS SLFYRM02, THE RM250N LADDER IS INTERCHANGABLE BUT BECAUSE IT HAS DIFFERANT STICKERS AND GAURDS THE P/N DIFFER'S SLIGHTLY, OEM NOS RM250N 1979 LADDER IS SLFYRMO1, GOOD LUCK FINDING A GOOD ONE