Author Topic: Restoring a pair of Hindalls  (Read 1475 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

firko

  • Guest
Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« on: February 02, 2011, 01:31:38 pm »

As I’ve posted earlier, I’ve decided to build a second Hindall framed DT1, a flat tracker companion to my recently imported Hindall DT1 desert racer/MXer. I’ve owned another almost identical frame which for various reasons kept getting put back on the shelf after being considered and then rejected for whatever my latest project was. The frame had started life as Dirt Bike Magazines 1972 ‘Project Bighorn’ project bike where the mag tried to turn a lumpy Kawasaki Bighorn 350 into a serious racer using the Harry Hindall lightweight frame and other lighter and better components.

Unfortunately the Hindall frame used had gone from being the media sweetheart of 1972 to a forlorn, rusty hulk by the time I bought it around ten years ago. The previous owner Leon Roach in California had purchased it from a junkyard with the intention of fitting one of his Ducati 450 engines but he thankfully abandoned the project after he realized that the big Duke motor wasn’t going to be a happy fit. All Leon had done was to melt the bronze welding to remove the bottom crossmember and footpeg mounts and they were included in a box with the frame.

Now, the little Hindalls day has come. A quick measure up told me that it was as near as buggery to my DT1 motocross version. There are minor differences such as the swingarm pivot chain adjusters and footpeg and brake pedal mounts but other than that, the frames appear to have come out of the same jig. The first problem that became obvious was the poor condition of the nickel plating when compared to the mint nickel on both of my other Hindalls. It was far worse than on my recently completed Cheney but being the eternal ‘glass half full” kind of bloke, I’ve decided to try and bring the nickel up to the best condition possible. I’m a stickler for not restoring the patina out of a bike so even if the nickel plating does show a few (many) pock marks…that’s a part of its soul. I figure that replating or painting over the patina is removing a part of its history and personality.

Having gone through a similar frame resto process with my Cheney and regretting not documenting it, I’ve decided to photograph and post the restoration procedure of both Hindalls. The first cab off the rank was to do some test areas on the corroded frame to see if it’s worth the effort in shining it up. If it turns out to be too big a job, I’ll bite the bullet and paint it. First up I’ll use two different grades of rotary wire brushes mounted in my trusty Black and Decker to remove the loose rust and green corrosion and bring it to a reasonable lustre. The next process is to use a buffing wheel mounted in said drill and utilizing three different grades of buffing ‘soap’. The buffing equipment can be purchased at Bunnings or any of those hardware emporiums.

Below: The bare frame as it was when I got it.

The shots below show the before and after results of my tests.


The swingarm before and wire brush (L) and buffer (R)


Offline vmx42

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1579
    • View Profile
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2011, 01:38:50 pm »
Almost finished then. Just polish up the bits between what you have already done. Simple…
When a woman says "What?", it's not because she didn't hear you, she's giving you the chance to chance to change what you said.

Beam me up Scotty, no intelligent life down here…

"everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but not to their own facts"

firko

  • Guest
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2011, 01:45:46 pm »
I've used a heavy guage wire brush to remove the loose corrosion, followed by a fine gauge stainless steel wire brush to start the polishing process. I then fit my cotton buffing wheel to my trusty Black and Decker and polish the previously wire brushed area using three different grades of buffing 'soap'. For the test pieces for the photos I've only used the first, coarse grade soap.




mx250

  • Guest
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2011, 01:57:19 pm »
Patience is required Firko - you are about to find out how many metres of light weight steel tubing makes up a frame - been there done that (wire brushing for painting).

So far, looking good  8).

firko

  • Guest
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2011, 02:10:08 pm »
Thanks Graeme...I've already been through this with the Cheney which wasn't quite as bad as this Hindall but was still pretty ordinary. It was a lot of work but the finished result made it all worth it. I'm hoping I get the same satisfaction from this baby.
The funny thing is, I don't really like nickelled frames yet now I find I've got five....three Hindalls, the Cheney and the Rickman. The B&S Suzuki 400 was also nickeled but it was almost as bad as this Hindall but I chickened out and powdercoated it. If I hadn't that would have been six.....that's a big Goddards Glow bill!

lc4

  • Guest
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #5 on: February 03, 2011, 08:50:12 pm »
Once cleaned do you coat the frame with something to stop the rust progressing or will the nickle look after itself ?

firko

  • Guest
Re: Restoring a pair of Hindalls
« Reply #6 on: February 03, 2011, 10:08:31 pm »
I haven't coated my Cheney or Hindall Ducati nickel and they're still holding up fine. After the initial buffing I polish them every few months with Simi Chrome, Mothers alloy polish or Meguiars mag wheel polish and Brite-Shine cotton wool alloy polish. It seems like a lot of care but it only takes half an hour or so and it looks great.

This Hindall is pretty crook though, especially in the areas where I'm going to have to braze new mounts in so those areas are going to get a coat of "chrome" silver spray paint. After that I'll probably clearcoat the whole frame to help blend the painted and polished areas.