By pushing the piston pin, as high into the piston as possible, the amount of 'Rock' around the pin is reduced.
The skirts can be smaller and shorter. (Don't expect 100.000k between rebuilds)
Modern Design, Engineering & Production is truly impressive in terms of quality & dimensional accuracy.
We can forget that it was not always this way.
Burt Munro cast his own pistons for the WFI in Jam tins. Correct composition of the alloy was more important for his engine.
From the depression era and immediate post-war era there are plenty of stories of pistons turned from hardwood providing 'acceptable' service.
For much of the 100+ year history of racing 2-stroke engines it has been necessary to remove pistons and rub down the high spots to prevent (or correct) seizing.
Cylinders full of ports (particularly air cooled ones) cannot help but to be, anything but perfectly round, as they heat & expand.
If you had the
Desperate Need, the
Time and the
Talent, you could turn up a circular piston, preferably with some taper. Then take a file and some emery cloth and remove a couple of thou. on the gudgeon sides. Start the motor and bring it up to operating temp. Then.... (This is the step
OverTheHill missed) pull it down again and file or sand down any obvious (shiny) high spots. Repeat the process, until there are no more high points.
Not really an option for "World beaters" (Except Burt Munro.), but it could keep the wheels turning on some 'worthless dunger' that's valued less than the cost of a new piston kit & rebore.
Note: Kids, DO NOT try this at home. Your individual results may vary.