Author Topic: Fork work  (Read 10469 times)

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Offline Daryl Jones

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Re: Fork work
« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2015, 08:00:15 pm »
"back in the day" we closed off the holes in the Betor caps.. for that very reason .. you got oil all over you.. didn't seem to affect the action with the bleed filled in..

It was also often recommended, to braze a cap over the top of the damper tube & drill sideways holes, to keep the oil from blowing/blasting up to the cap vents. Later Bultaco forks had a bent steel piece that fitted inside the spring at the damper end to achieve the same effect.

As Sleepy has pointed out, when emulators are fitted, the top of the damper tube/rod needs to be covered with oil at "top-out" rather than at full compression, as normal.  Lots more oil in the fork, with potential for pneumatic pressure problems.

Anybody got a good Betor emulator story?

Cheers, DJ
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Offline FourstrokeForever

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Re: Fork work
« Reply #16 on: April 10, 2015, 08:19:45 am »
The Betors I have on my B50 work a treat now. Yep, the bleed hole is filled in. I'm using Montesa King Scorpion rods that are completely stock and progressive springs with 10mm preload. 15wt oil. 190mm air gap on compressed tubes. The bike handles everything really well, much better than the drama's I had with emulators.
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Offline Tim754

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Re: Fork work
« Reply #17 on: April 10, 2015, 10:01:10 am »
Fork work?  say that regularly on fine days when I'm there.
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