Tricks to setting up Twin lead Brakes

[E74]

Anyone here know of any tricks to setting up twin leader brakes to make the work to their full potential?,

I rode at the Lakes yesterday and couldn't helkp thinking every time I went out, "F*ark, this would be heaps better if I had some brakes", I know that it is important to run a new brake cable but I still only end up with spongy feeling brakes that are useless, I have a mate however with an IT490 and the front brakes on it are awsome so there must be a way of getting them to work!

 any thoughts appreciated..

[Slakewell]

IT brakes were always awesome.
Yamaha twin leading shoe was probably the best drum brake ever made. My opinion for what its worth. 
Go the electrical trades store by some shrink wrap. Now all parts of the cable than don't need to bend apply shrink wrap. This of corse if you have a good cable to begin with. Yamaha AG bike ones are good for vintage bikes. While you down the road buy a good black marking pen.
Now after you have cable lubed and covered in shrink wrap. Take your brake shoes and colour them in with the black marker put the shoes back in and do some high speed stops. Take the shoes out look were the black marker has not worn off and adjust the twin linkage till most of it is wearing even. You may have to file and sand high spots from the shoes themselves.
If this dosent work try looking at porn sites till your right arm gets stronger and squeze the lever harder.

[LWC82PE]

What does the heat shrink do dont the cables already have a black plastic sleeve over them? Can you explain it a bit better or provide a photo? Thanks.

[firko]

Me too Slakemeister.....I don't get the shrinkwrap part.

[bigk]

I'm guessing the shrink wrap, and I think he means the stiff stuff, stops any flex in the cable where it doesn't need to.
Cheers,
K

[firko]

I was thinking Glad Wrap ...  it makes a bit of sense now.

[LWC82PE]

I was thinking of the stuff you use when making wiring looms that you put over solderd joints then warm it up so it shrinks and insulates the joint but its still flexible.

[brent j]

I set mine as follows.
Get the brake shoes sitting flat on the cams, the main shoe is easy and use the adjustable rod to set the second shoe.
This brings both shoes on at once. Then follow Slakewell's method of finding and removing the high spots.
Something else to check is that the backing plate is sitting square to the drum when everything is tightened. One of my backing plates has some corrosion on the area that sits against the fork leg, where the axle runs through. This plate sits very slightly crooked when the axle is tightened but it's fine when lose.
Check the acnchor lug is not binding when you tighten things up. This is especially important when you have mix and match parts.
Finally when you tighten the front axle spin the front wheel forward, pull the brake on hard and while holding the brake on, tighten the axle nut. This should let the backing plate "float" into the most central positiion.

hth

Brent

[E74]

It's called "heat shrink" and it's not really necessary if you are running a brand new cable, however eliminating the high spots makes a lot of sense.

[Slakewell]

Heat shrink yes. sorry didnt expain. On the new cover of VMX look the works front brake cable on the RC honda. reducing cable flex means you dont have to squeze as hard to stop. You can buy heat shrink in black that just slides over the cable use a heat gun or hair direr to stiffen the non bendy bits. 

[Curly3]

Would normal electrical heat shrink be thick enough to make a difference? or is there a thicker one available, 2 layers maybe.