Author Topic: Painting hubs  (Read 5139 times)

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Offline tony27

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Painting hubs
« on: February 17, 2010, 02:58:37 pm »
Hopefully 090 can help me out

Have just received a rear hub from the states & want to paint it etc before having it spoked up & would like advice on what steps etc I should take
Beadblast?
Primer & paint or powder coat?
Best colour match if painted by hand

Any help greatly appreciated

090

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2010, 04:22:10 pm »
My old man painted the 360 ones. He sand blasted, primed and used an acrylic colour from Krylon. The paint is called 18 carrot plate, with a coat of two pack clear over the top.
The original gold is hard to match and this colour is not the same. Just gives the desired effect.

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2010, 06:32:08 pm »
Thanks for that, near enough is what I'm after just as long as it gives a degree of corrosion protection.
Am I correct in thinking etch primer is a no no?

090

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2010, 08:15:10 pm »
I don't know but dad would have used an acrylic primer.

Offline VMX60

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2010, 08:42:50 pm »
Tony
Be very careful blasting magnesium CZ hubs they will end up with pin holes completey stuffed  :(
Nothing harder than glass beads if at all
Better to play safe clean by hand
Gold colour is a pain to match

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2010, 05:34:36 am »
Our bead/sand blaster at work gets used mainly for removing the shine from aluminium milk bottle moulds to stop the bottles sticking, I dont think it would damage the hub but I will have a good look at how much prep work needs doing later today

Offline Davey Crocket

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2010, 08:45:08 am »
Remember to paint the inside as well....1 drop of water in there from washing or a wet ride and the corosian will start, I think magnesium is like a magnet to water so to be safe paint every bit......inside and out!!!, cheers John.
QVMX.....Australia's #1 VMX club......leading the way.

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2010, 04:57:08 pm »
Inside is something I'd thought about as well & will do.
Took the bearings out while at work, brake side was still the original from the looks of it but the other side had a needle roller fitted which wasn't so good. It meant the wheel was only located by the 1 bearing, the needle roller also wasn't as tight as it should have been & will need some careful checking to make sure the hub doesn't need bushing before I paint it

Offline VMX60

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2010, 06:29:14 pm »
Needle roller sure is wrong ,Drive side should be a twin roller type same as crankshaft mains 3205 ?
other side single row bearing 6205
Just make sure heat the hub and freeze the bearings when you replace them . banging bearing in or out cold will stuff the OD surface ;D

Sure we have all came across wheels that have had the bearing smashed in with a BIG hammer

Tony hope you can save the hub after  buying it from the states




 
« Last Edit: February 18, 2010, 07:29:55 pm by VMX60 »

Offline LWC82PE

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #9 on: February 18, 2010, 07:34:37 pm »
Quote
Am I correct in thinking etch primer is a no no?

No, an etch primer is a good thing and is especially good for alloy/magnesium. I would recommend it.
Wanted - 1978 TS185 frame or frame&motor. Frame # TS1852-24007 up to TS1852-39022

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #10 on: February 18, 2010, 08:00:46 pm »
VMX60, drive/brake side is the normal double row type, its just the other 1 that was a surprise. The bearing came out easier than expected but is by no means loose so its shouldn't be a problem with maybe a drop a bearing mount loctite as a possibility.
The 69 hub that is in the bike flogged out its housing at 1 stage & I repaired it by boring it round & parallel then fitting a pressed in stainless sleeve which was then bored to the proper fit. Should not come to that though

Offline VMX60

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #11 on: February 18, 2010, 08:57:16 pm »
Good news

 The 69 CZ sidepiper rear sprocket had rivets std are you restoring or racing with a bolt up sprocket  ;D

Cheers

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #12 on: February 19, 2010, 03:27:43 pm »
The 69 rear wheel has been converted to bolt up sprocket, original had the teeth turned off & a new sprocket turned up to fit. Not planning a full on resto but will have to hide the mikuni from my father when it turns up. At the moment the bike is very original apart from the rear wheel & a falk front guard which needs the hot air treatment to widen it back to the proper width for tyre clearance

Offline tony27

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #13 on: April 05, 2010, 09:38:35 am »
Put the bearings back in yesterday & found about 1mm of movement/endfloat in the centre spacer, no play in the bearings only the spacer moves. I can't see that as normal as when you do up the axle it would apply force to the bearings.  :(
Looks like I'll have to pull the bearings back out & make a shim to go against the shoulder on the spacer to correct this

Offline piney

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Re: Painting hubs
« Reply #14 on: April 05, 2010, 10:27:47 am »
Definetly use etch primer and remember only to put a verry light see thru coat
ps I'm a spraypainter and used to be a tech rep for Du Pont
hope this helps
cheer's