Messages

16

Tech Talk / Re: Need help with 240 volt tig welder selection please

« on: January 30, 2018, 10:45:29 PM »

You will need a 15 Amp plug and a dedicated 4mm2 circuit unless you like running out to the power box a lot. Plenty of people file the earth pin down so it fits in a 10amp GPO but normal wiring is only 1.5mm2() not good if you're pulling a few amps continually. There is a very good welder at Sandgate that will do a lot of work for $100 cash.

Most of the welders come from China with different control panels and housings all the inverter IGBT technology is basically the same. Ask suppliers if they sell spare boards/fans for them and the cost. Tokentools at Wyong has good welders and more importantly replacement boards and fans in stock (even for a 8 year old welder like mine). 200amp machines will handle 3mm ali no probs, pre heat the head though.

This is a good machine with triangular AC wave.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OLYMPIC-ALU-TIG-200P-AC-DC-INVERTER-PULSE-WELDER-LEADS/142169138781?epid=722853523&hash=item2119f0e65d:g:XukAAOSw5cNYGtA1

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General Discussion / Re: Contacting forum member Snowy 76 AKA Birko

« on: January 04, 2018, 09:38:13 PM »

Mark Birkett or PM me I'll send his number

18

General Discussion / Re: Another new friggin tax

« on: December 06, 2017, 06:59:51 PM »

Let us know how it goes then Lozza. From my cursory understanding it is not the same as the SA version.

Put cans and plastic into machine, get voucher go into Woolies cash in voucher. Walk out with cold hard cash. Really difficult stuff. There was people putting through ute loads of recyclables through. The machine takes them as fast as you can load them.

There is no way on earth that these drop off machines and venues could handle the massive volume of this waste that is about to have a waste deposited applied!
The same waste that is already being processed responsibly by tens of thousands of residents into their fortnightly yellow lid council pickup bins.

I will simply forfeit this new deposit, as I think it will fair to expect that most working class will. Not enough hours in the day to add a new chore.

So what I would like to know is who gets to keep all the deposits that are forfeited by those who are already doing "the right thing"?

By the sound of it plastic got pulped, cans got crushed and bottles turned into powder in very quick time. If you don't want the bottles I'll come around and pick them up 

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General Discussion / Re: Another new friggin tax

« on: December 05, 2017, 03:23:22 PM »

   Another tax but this one we pay directly to the beer and soft drink companies.  It seems these companies are prepared to administer the collection centres for the new container deposit scheme in NSW out of the goodness of their hearts.  This extra tax has been put in place to appease the greens and is suppose to stop the containers being discarded.   Instead everyone will return them to the collection centres and put them 1 at a time into the reverse vending machines along with your details so they can give you your refund via Paypal or similar, ( no chance that info would be shared or of getting a heap of nuisance emails etc from a site as secure as a bloody vending machine ).  It's great news if like me you live in Cessnock NSW because we only have to drive to Singleton or Newcastle for our closest centre a round trip of about 80km which will cost me more than I would expect to get back for the cans.  These centres are expected be open for around 28 hours a week for deposits and 8 hours of that will be at weekends.  The weekend crowds waiting for their turn will look like the opening of the friggin Olympics.  I imagine that the extra profit for the drink companies will make will be unreal when they estimate the cost of a case of pepsi might increase by as much as $4.80,  I usually buy them when they are on special for around $10. Of that $4.80 increase I expect they might buy back only a very small percentage of those sold and the difference is all profit, no wonder they are so happy to help out.   It may end up working but I doubt it will make any difference to the amount of drink containers discarded.
   Zane

You pay 10c deposit when you purchase the product, the companies refund you the money.
Watch the War on Waste on Iview, in South Australia where the scheme has been in operation for 20 odd years. Litter of this type is non existant. You can get paid in cash. Recycle rates are over 90%. The scheme works. It has only just been rolled out in NSW every Woolies will have a deposit machine soon.

20

General Discussion / Re: Scam at another level

« on: December 03, 2017, 11:58:42 PM »

There have been several instances where solicitors and conveyencers email accounts have been hijacked , with very large sums of money exchanged for property purchases. Big purchases best not to reply on emails, back to snail mail, calling  or faxes

https://www.theguardian.com/money/2017/oct/21/couple-lose-120000-email-hacking-fraud-legal-sector

21

Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: November 27, 2017, 09:34:49 PM »

Your only reference points you need are 1000 rpm and 3000 rpm check them with a timing light and disregard the 1.88mm static setting. At 1000 the standard ignition is 13* (which you can check with a drill turning the engine over and plug grounded out)and at 3000 it is 28* move the stator to get as close as possible to those 2 known points. The ignition timing will be fine across the range  checked at those 2 points. Don't be  afraid to remove the woodruff key altogether if you can't those 2 points to match.All the Hitachi ignitions have a similar curve. IIRC when I used one it was set to  13* static that came back to about 7* at 12,500.
Thats how you need to set the PVL at 4000 rpm vs the amount of advance you want which is +6deg as the PVL advances 22* at 4000 so you will have a total of 28*.

22

Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: November 23, 2017, 10:26:40 AM »

Marcus if the stator is a 1443,1419 or 1424 I would buy the stator rotor if you don't want it the ignitions I use will work with those stators

I got an email back from pvl saying my stator is a 3000 winches one. He reckons my cdi was designed and tested for a 5000 winches stator and he can't provide a curve. Does this make sense?

Sort of I think the 5000 winds has more retard in the curve 3000 has less retard

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Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: November 22, 2017, 08:16:27 PM »

I still don't think relying on setting the timing by "x.xmm BTDC" is any good at all with this ignition. The only way it will be set correctly will be with the engine running at 4000 rpm. Look at how much the timing changes in 1500 rpm and the amount of static advance you're giving the ignition is added to this curve.

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Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: November 21, 2017, 09:42:58 PM »

with a dial gauge you are only checking a static amount of advance really needs to be set with a timing light

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Tech Talk / Re: dt or it175 cylinder sleeves?

« on: November 08, 2017, 10:46:24 AM »

56mm pistons with a 16mm gudgeon are dime a dozen. Boring and plating a cylinder is easier and CHEAPER than fitting sleeves not to mention a far better job

26

Tech Talk / Re: dt or it175 cylinder sleeves?

« on: November 06, 2017, 07:41:12 PM »

Why not just get 2XT cylinders with the sub exhaust port, put the ignition and PV controller on, jetted right that will be around 55hp. All this big bore stuff will be a distant memory. A proper race 250,ie TZ/RS 250 has enough torque even out of band to reef your arms off.

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General Discussion / Photobucket fix for Firefox users

« on: October 30, 2017, 07:24:44 AM »

I couldn't find the thread on the Photobucket travesty, but here is a workaround . Might be worth saving any pics you want/like
http://www.rzrd500.com/500phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15006

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Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: October 26, 2017, 11:28:26 AM »

The pvl digital kit comes from penton racing in USA. 80115. I am using the digital chart you posted up Loz. Not sure if it's the curve in my Cdi. Pvl advertises these for the yz125. Do you think the ignition could be the problem?

I am putting a standard ignition on anyway for a while, but I am not sure about these mapping issues.

I don't think the ignition itself is the problem. Curve maybe , the piston crown will tell

29

Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: October 25, 2017, 11:22:47 AM »

Over 30* is too much advance, then there is the little problem of the curve going from -10 to -19* (for ease of starting) between about 0-1000 rpm which means you would need static advance to be more than +20*. Where did you get the PVL from?
Using 1-1.2mm BTDC as a base would be OK with the non digital ignitions but I don't see any real advantage of any PVL curve over the standard curve.

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Yamaha / Re: YZ125K Rebuild

« on: October 24, 2017, 11:33:01 AM »

I found out my stroke is 50mm
My rod is 98mm centre to centre

When I use the torque soft app at 20* I get a value of 1.88mm

I have the Digital PVL, not an analogue one, and an internal rotor.  Not sure about windings etc.. I dont know my pvl cdi number yet, as I am working away. So, not sure what PVL ignition curve I have.  Would the curve not be closest to the curve on the bottom right?

My Yamaha curve in my manual shows about 26* btdc  at 4000 rpm

When I find out the correct value from pvl and then plug it into torqsoft, I assume I set the piston with my dial gauge at the given mm btdc, then make a mark on my outer stator and inner rotor that can be anywhere, but they must align.  Then start the bike and using the rpm gauge and timing light, bring the rpm to the correct range and check to see if the marks line up, and then adjust the stator a whisker to align the marks.  Does that process now sound correct?

Would this just test whether the ignition was working properly and set it to the recommended PVL baseline?  As even PVL states that the measurements they give are only a starting point.  I may need to go a lot more retarded for a higher compression engine no?
Also have to look at a leakdown test, a compression test, compression ratio test (Yamaha state 7.8-9.9:1) and squish band test. Yamaha recommends the squish for this bike at .8mm.  Does anyone know what is considered a normal range for compression, and then what is considered a high compression engine?

I will have to find the correct curve for this bike. I know the kit is PVL Digital Ignition 80115. (anyone have an ignition curve for this kit?)

Your process is close but you need to look at the curve closely as after the engine is running it will follow the pre-programmed curve inside the cdi not what you static set the stator/rotor to. 

PVL only have 4 curves to choose from. 1.2mm BTDC= 16* (I think your rod length is 100mm too) so when you set that to 16* every point on that curve will be +/- 16*. At the point where the curve says "0*" will you have what you first set the stator/rotor to. The digital curve at 4000 rpm is +22* so you will have 38* and at 11,000 you will be back to 16*. As you can see 38* is a wee bit more than 26* of the yamaha curve.

Have you measured the head volume? A water cooled engine will easy run 15-16:1 with 98 pump fuel. A high comp engine I would regard as +17:1. The Yamaha figure is the useless corrected compression ratio that uses the volume form top of exhaust port not full swept volume.
Squish is about right.