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Messages - Nitram

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31
For Sale / Re: A couple of Can-Ams for sale............
« on: August 07, 2012, 09:55:52 pm »
I'm not too much into manipulating ebay sales-bodgy bids and etc.  The market pays what it wants to. I'm happy to keep the bikes in circulation and I'm not doing too much racing these days.  :( :(

Can-Ams are great bikes, but a little quirky and bit too exotic for most people's taste.  Your average VMX rider is happy enough with his run-of-the-mill CR, YZ or ho-hum Maico or Bultaco or whatever.  It's not until a bloke realises that he's just been roosted by this funny looking disc valve rocketship that the penny drops and he comes to see the light.............. ;) ;) ;) 

Of course some people never get there. :) :) :) :)




 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

See you at CD9.

Cheers

Nitram

32
For Sale / A couple of Can-Ams for sale............
« on: July 30, 2012, 09:14:30 pm »
I've decided to thin down the fleet a little and put a couple of a ads on ebay selling a 400 and a 175-both orange bikes.

These are the links to the ads:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Can-Am-MX6-/330771107868?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item4d037e901c

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Can-Am-400-Qualifier-1980-/330771107922?pt=AU_Motorcycles&hash=item4d037e9052

And here are the bikes:




Get in touch by the usual channels if you're interested.

Cheers,

Nitram

33
Tech Talk / Re: What causes this?
« on: July 27, 2012, 07:26:31 pm »
I've got a shitload of kart pistons on the shelf in my shed with seize marks like that on the exhaust side.  From my bucket racing days.  It didn't stop 'til I started using a 22mm i.d. tail pipe on the chamber instead of the 18mm I was using before.

What kind of riding are you doing ?  Not dirt track by any chance ?  If you've got it nailed a fair bit, then any restriction in the exhaust will cause a heat build up-like the power valve for example......Or using the wrong muffler ??. 

I'd fix the power valve or just wire it open.  Clean up the piston with a smooth file so it doesn't look so horrid.  Use some acid on a toothbrush (not your best one !) to get the alloy off the bore-we used to use acid from the swimming pool supply shop I think. You'll need to get all the crud off that's above the exhaust port.  Clean up the ring-they are hard as hell and usually can take a pounding.  Unless the ring is scored scored then it'll still give you enough compression to run well enough.

It'll probably rattle pretty badly, but Wiseco pistons are tough and can handle a fair bit of clanking around.

Then get it out and cane it.  If it seizes again, you'll know it's got nothing to do with the power valve, or the piston-bore clearance.

That's what I reckon anyway.

Nitram

34
Tech Talk / Re: Steering issues.
« on: June 05, 2012, 11:04:17 pm »
Hi Nathan,
Careful with those heavier fork springs.  Myself and a mate did about a million dirt miles on TTRs a couple of years ago.  We had a big (20litre ?) Acerbis tanks and we carried a fair bit of gear.  The forks are pretty ordinary but I never felt the need to get heavier springs.  The stock back shock, on the other hand is pure junk and is desperate for a re-valving job. 

I then got a DR650 for dirt touring, and the forks seemed way too soft-bottoming out on the hard landings with a full load on etc, so I got some heavier ones of the recommended rate.  With the heavier springs the front didn't bottom out, but the steering turned to shite.  It seemed to understeer and then fall into the corner on loose surfaces, a bit like you describe.  I'm pretty confident that because of the heavier springs, the back is squatting more than the front in the bends, causing the steering geometry to go strange (i.e. front raked out).  My mate's DR with stock springs steers fine..............except that it bottoms out occasionally.

My philosophy with front ends is that they should be as soft as possible, without bottoming out in whatever conditions you are riding in. i.e. if you're not going over jumps, then it doesn't matter if it bottoms out over jumps.  Know what I mean ?  Unless your original TTR springs are fully sagged, I'd whack them back in and see how it steers then.

Oh and also, keep an eye on the steering head bearings in the TTR.  Mine was feeling a bit weird at one stage. I didn't notice that there was a notch in the head bearings until one day I had the front wheel off-then it was pretty obvious, and replacing them worked wonders for the steering in loose stuff.

Good luck in the 24hr trial by the way.  Sounds like fun.  Make sure to do a write up and let us know how you go.

Cheers,

Martin

35

Thanks for the replies, and special thanks to Rob (monte34) who had a spare head that was just right.  It is very similar as far as finning goes-except for a few short fins of the LHS to clear a high pipe, and it has spot for an extra plug.  I didn't measure the CCV, but the combustion chamber is clearly a little bigger and when fitted it brings the compression pressure back to something pretty normal.  I guess it may knock a little bit of the edge off the performance, but it'll be worth it I'm sure.

And yes Montynut, when the piston was new the thing could only be pushstarted, and then in about third gear. 

Anyway, all fixed now.

Cheers,

Martin

36
Serious, you can stand up and put your weight (well, my puny 72kg anyway) on the kick starter and it just doesn't budge.

If anyone has a spare head to fit something like this lying around, let me know.
Cheers,

Martin

37
Yeah, as Spanish said, $200 is not something I'm about to jump at.  Usually you get a whole Montesa for $200  !!  Just kidding !
Anyway, here's a picture of the head I have now.  I only want another one because the compression with this one is huge.  I havn't measured the CCV but it's virtually impossible to start with the prick-of-a-Montesa kickstart hitting the footpeg after only 90 degrees of swing.  The compression is miles high.  So my plan is to get another head and do a little machining on the lathe to get it down to something more user-friendly.  Hope that's not too sacrilegious..................


38
I'm in need of a cylinder head for my 250.  The bottom end is 63M Cappra, but the head and barrel are from a Scorpion I think.  Not sure actually.  But there are 4 head bolts, and it's a short stroke 72.5mm bore barrel.

Anyone got a spare head they don't need ?

Cheers,

Martin

39
For Sale / Cleaning out Dad's shed.
« on: December 18, 2011, 10:41:38 pm »
When Dad passed away earlier this year, he left a shedfull of junk, some motorbike related from when he used to have bit of a shop/workshop. It's mostly new, and some of it's no good to me. So if you can use any of this stuff, let me know-send an email to me at [email protected].  Don't send a PM cause I probably won't get it.  All prices do not include postage.  You can come and pick stuff up if you want- from Blue Mountains- Springwood area.

Cheers,

Martin


Levers to fit Honda- $7 per pair sold pending payment
Lever perches to take Honda levers- $5 eachsold pending payment
Valve adjusting caps- $2 each sold pending payment
Or $25 for everthing in the picture


Levers to suit Yamaha- $7 a pair or $20 for the lot.sold pending payment


Suzuki levers (well it says Suzuki of the bag) $7 a pair
Back sprocket to suit TS185 (that's what it says on the bag) 39t. Centre hole measures 64mm-$15
Rings to suit TS185ER- Std. $15
Or $25 the lot. SOLD pending payment



Ignition cover gasket YZ125H- $5


Fuel tap.  No idea what it's off. $2sold pending payment


Decompressor lever.  This is quite a nice thing.  Very nice actually. $10sold pending payment


Tacho- suits Kawasaki or anything else that runs at 5:1- $20



One of those black plastic Q/A throttle that were all the rage when we were kids- $5SOLD PENDING PAYMENT


Carby rebuild kits to suit TS185ER, KL250-A3, DR250, XT250, Yamaha AG100.
Kits include gasket, needle/seat, needle, main jet, pilot jet, mixture screw/spring. $5 each
or $15 the lot.sold pending payment


Random levers. $7 the lot.sold pending payment



Lever bolts- short and long. $5 the lot.sold pending payment


DT175H Ignition stator and flywheel. He left a note saying that it worked back then......... Could fit other bikes ?  It 175 ?  Just guessing really- $15sold pending payment


Gasket sets for Honda G400 and G150. There are 5 gasket sets in total.  One has been opened. $20 the lot.


Ducati 860 Camshaft and bevel gear etc. $20sold pending payment


40
Other Makes (CanAms, Coopers, etc) / Re: Project Can-Ams to Canowindra !
« on: October 05, 2011, 11:11:04 pm »
Yeah I was pretty happy with both bikes.  The pre-78 bike has a really smooth power delivery which really seemed to work well in the sloppy mud conditions- easy to ride and not threatening to spit you off on every corner.  But it still is brilliantly powerful on a drying track.  Makes it easy for a mug punter like me.  Unfortunately the motor (just rebuilt with new rod/bearings/piston) developed a horrid rattle while idling.  Not sure what it is, but it doesn't sound pretty. 

The pre'75 bike is a lot less forgiving- a bit like a light switch as far as the powerband is concerned- so I left it in the shed til the track dried out a bit.  But it was still a real weapon. Put a smile on my face every time I dialled it on !

I know the Can-Ams look a bit funny compared to the CRs/RMs etc etc, but they are so fast.  I can't understand why nobody races them.  That pre-'75 bike of mine is just a TNT with a chamber.  That's all !  I guess there are not too many of them around, but they turn up every now and then on ebay etc.

Looking forward to the next race-hopefully at somewhere without too many jumps................

Cheers,

Nitram  :) :) :)

41
Other Makes (CanAms, Coopers, etc) / Project Can-Ams to Canowindra !
« on: September 25, 2011, 08:07:21 am »
OK.  After two years in the wilderness and the bikes gathering dust and cobwebs I've bitten the bullet and entered the HEAVEN meeting at Canowindra next weekend. 

The pre-'75 bike (250 TNT bitza) last ran at Nepean short circuit at least three or four years ago, but with a cleaned out carb and fresh fuel she started 2nd kick and settled down to a heathy idle.  Great to fill the workshop with two-stroke smoke instead of the dust and wood shavings of endless home building projects.  The last time I rode this bike it frightened me- huge power that hits with a bang, and ordinary suspension- heaps of fun !



The pre-'78 ("MX3" bitza) used to be a 175, but I put together a 250 engine with all new internals about 18mths ago, and never got around to fitting it.  But it's up and running now and is as smooth and sweet a new engine should be.



The only question whether the body is up to the task................... Ah well, what the heck.  Only live once etc etc.

Cheers,

Nitram   

42
Hi Jim,
As you can see, they need a bit of tidying up.
$30 the pair plus postage.



43
I think I've got a set of fibreglass sidecovers for one of those white-framed Cappras somewhere out in the shed- from back in my Mantossa days.  A bit scruffy, from memory- but useable.  Let me know if anyone can use them.

Cheers,

Martin 

44
General Discussion / Ebay parts from USA.
« on: February 01, 2011, 11:28:45 pm »
I have a recollection that I read of a bloke in US who offered a service of using his address to get stuff posted to, from ebay sellers who won't send outside USA.

Does anyone remember who it is ?  Has anyone used him ?  Good bloke/reliable ?  Doesn't rip you off ?

Thanks in advance,

Cheers,

Martin

45
Bike Talk / Re: Where to get brake shoes relined in Brisbane?
« on: June 21, 2010, 08:42:15 pm »
There's a top bloke named Rod Cooke who has a couple of immaculate Can-Am MX6s, and runs a brake place in Brisbane- but I've lost his business card and phone number etc.  He did some shoes for me 12 months ago and did a perfect job.  Grant Black or Gosso will be able to tell you where he is.

Cheers,

Martin

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