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Messages - 2T

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1
Wanted / Wanted: Bearing Cover Plate
« on: March 20, 2025, 03:17:49 pm »
For Yamahas:

YZ 250 - '85, '88-'94
WR250 - '89-'93
YZ490 - '85-'90
WR500 - '92-'93

Part # 3SP-15381-00-00

*No longer required.

2
General Discussion / Re: New Members
« on: March 19, 2025, 04:59:17 pm »
I happen to notice the latest new member Kurtas. Out of curiosity I checked the date , he joined in 2022 . That means no new members since 2022. What is going on ?


Covid must have killed the old timers ;-)

Don't worry John, I get the humour in your comment. :)


Interestingly, forum stats for 2024 and so far in 2025, show Most Online and Page Views are way up on previous years.

https://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?action=stats

Plenty of people using the forum, just not contributing.


3
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 14, 2025, 03:29:34 pm »
Thanks folks.

4
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 13, 2025, 08:15:08 pm »
What's the best way to apply threebond to the crankcase without putting too much or too little on?

5
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 05, 2025, 08:37:07 pm »
I like your simple approach, John. I procrastinate way too much.

6
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 05, 2025, 07:32:18 pm »
Hi Tomas,

Watching a youtube video of an older yz490 motor assembly (mine is the same as the later '87-'90 motor), it seems a crank installer tool can't be used for the clutch side. The guy just applied a small amount of heat to the bearing and the crank slipped in very easily.

I haven't installed the stator side seal yet and expect if I do it after joining the crankcases I'll need a pipe or tube to fit over the shaft to push the seal into place. The guy in the video used a crank installation tool to push the crankcases together with the seal already in place.
It seemed to work well.

As you mentioned about using case bolts to pull cases together, yes, that doesn't seem ideal. I think I'll be able to borrow an installation tool to do that job.

Thanks for your advice.




7
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 01, 2025, 12:18:36 pm »
Seal is in (with a bit of surface prep and a wipe of Threebond). Used a large socket to guide it but didn't need any extra force to get it in.

Regarding crankcase assembly, is it ok to gradually tighten the case bolts to force the case onto the crank or is a crankshaft installing tool the best method?




8
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: March 01, 2025, 12:34:53 am »
As I mentioned, the sealing surface was a bit rough. It also had dark marks showing the notches where, at some stage, it had been running with a seal in backwards. :o

I have since given it a clean with a scotchbrite pad and except for a light gouge (probably from a screwdriver removing a previous seal), it is looking really good.

Will be fitting the new seal tomorrow and hopefully it's a bit tighter than the one I've just removed. Was thinking although it's not as tight a fit as I might like, any sealant will still probably just get pushed off as it goes in. It might seal the screwdriver gouge though.

As to whether the seal has actually been leaking is a mystery. I thought a seal leak sucked oil in, yet it wasn't belching smoke, and I had pressure in the gearbox. I'm hoping it's not a seal problem because the existing seal was only 11 hours old. I'm thinking why should the new one be any better and if it leaks again what then? Source another slightly bigger seal? Hopefully not insert a shim.

When I disassembled the bottom end, it was hard to tell if the crankcase join had been sealed correctly. All I can do is make sure I get it right when I do it. Apart from oozing out the clutch cover gasket, oil was also coming out the join right above the gearbox breather, about an inch behind the barrel/crankcase join. Is that a sign it may have been coming through from the crank cavity? I don't know.

Also, regarding seal 'walking'. What do you mean, pokey?


9
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 28, 2025, 01:09:15 pm »
Diameter of both the old and new seal are approximately .6mm larger than the crankcase. Mating surface is a little rough but does not look worn.

Will fit the new seal and do another leak down test when it is all assembled.

Looking at the workshop manual there's not a single mention of crank seals. Seems a bit strange.



forkin' bikes. >:(


10
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 27, 2025, 05:37:06 pm »
Needing some advice.

While prepping to reassemble my bottom end I removed the clutch side crank seal, and it came out pretty easy.

I can push it back into place by hand.

Should I be concerned?


11
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 21, 2025, 01:42:13 am »
Pokey, regarding your last post mentioning the possibility of an air leak, even though the leak down test was fine.

I have just been reading an article on http://kenoconnorracing.com/ The article is http://kenoconnorracing.com/vacuum-leaks.php

He mentions oil coming out of the gearbox breather as a symptom of a clutch side crank seal leak or a crankcase leak between the crank and gearbox. I had had oil coming out the breather a few times before it started leaking from the seals.

My crank seals are only eleven hours old, and I wasn't going to bother replacing them, but I will now. Will also concentrate on getting a good seal between the two crankcase halves. Oil was leaking from just behind the cylinder, right near the breather outlet, so it may have been travelling from the crankcase through to the gearbox.

Thanks for the tip!

12
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 20, 2025, 04:33:55 pm »
Well, it's a bit of a relief to now have a direction to head in, rather than flying blind. I have two other heads, so will see which is suitable for use.

The motor is fully disassembled atm after checking integrity of crankcase join seal and testing for cracks in crankcases that may have been opening up at high temp and letting pressure into the gearbox. Both were fine so will work at getting it back together. Have never assembled a bottom end or installed an ignition, so that should be interesting.

13
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 20, 2025, 02:06:30 pm »
The piston crown angle is approximately 11 degrees.

Geez that's a good point you make, John. With the squish angle being so large it borders on eliminating it as a squish and becoming an extension of the combustion chamber. Would this be enough to cause such high operating temperatures?

Also, along with all my other problems, blown head gaskets have been an issue. This could be the cause.

14
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 19, 2025, 02:11:49 pm »
Also, squish gap has shown to have no effect on reducing heat issues. Squish gap was 1.65mm when original issues showed, and I have been running 1.2mm since then with similar issues.

Having said that, although the heat issues are still there, I haven't had the detonation damage to the piston with the tighter squish gap.

15
Tech Talk / Re: PVL Timing
« on: February 19, 2025, 02:06:13 pm »
Hi John,

I've never cc'd the head.

Head photo includes an epoxy casting cross-section of the head. Angle of the squish is approximately 28 degrees. Original factory squish angle is (I think) 14.5 degrees. Combustion chamber has not been touched. Let me know if photo isn't visible and I'll try again.


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