Messages

1

Wanted / Re: XR75/80 inner rear guard

« on: February 21, 2008, 10:46:16 am »

If you're talking about the little flap that bplts to the back of the air box, I have one here for a 1986 XR80 if it's any good to you.

Kel

2

Wanted / XR80 Wheels

« on: February 19, 2008, 01:59:28 pm »

Hi all. I'm after front and back wheels for a 1986 Honda XR80R. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.  Kel

3

For Sale / Re: DT250A

« on: January 22, 2008, 03:16:44 am »

Thanks for that Freaky Don't have a pic, and the price is, or isn't. Come and take it away. I'd rather see it go to someone who can either finish it or at least use the parts than see it sitting here collecting dust and cobwebs.

Kel

4

For Sale / DT250A

« on: January 21, 2008, 04:25:32 am »

I started on this bike 18 months ago, but now have 2 grandkids keeping me busy with other bike projects so this one has to go. The frame and swing arm have been sand blasted, inspected and painted. Had new swing arm bushes made up. Has 76 forks fitted at present, but the 74 ones come with the bike. Both rims are there and straight. Tank has a couple of small dings and the inside is rusted. No fuel tap. No side covers or front guard. The rear steel guard is there, but needs straightening. The air box and exhaust are there. The motor is there complete, turns over freely and selects all gears. Has some (read little) compression. Carbie is there but looks like a bitsa. The rubber reed block is perished.

My dog chewed the wiring from the case. I think I can locate the coil, but that's it for electrics. The kick start is NOT welded on, but the gear lever is. Has bars and a couple of lever perches as well. Probably a few other bits floating about as well (oil tank etc)

Bike is located in Brisbane (north) for pickup. Would love to finish it, but grand kids take precedent.

5

Tech Talk / Re: Plastic restoration

« on: January 12, 2008, 02:09:30 am »

Kel, I tried to use it on sidepanels for the RM250A I just sold. I ended up going back to ordinary spray enamel, so I could at least prime and sand. The fusion is designed to be sprayed with no need for sanding...on my old plastic parts they needed sanding. Worse, once you coat it, you must wait 7 days to re-coat.

I suppose it has it's place-plastic furniture etc., but you may want to sand and polish your plastics. This has been described here before, on other threads.
While I polish aluminum parts( working on two Bultacos, then a Rickman and a CZ), this is a tedious process to polish plastic. I gave up.

You could prep as you would for any quality automotive paint, but add flex agent, so it will flex with the part.

Thanks for that mate. The bike is for my grandson's birthday (soon) and I can't afford to be pissing about too long.

We have an automotive spray painter at work who mentioned the flex agent when I asked him about Krylon. Recons you can get a good finish with it  over plastic adhesive primer, but you have to be a bit careful as it's touchy and takes for ever to dry.

I wouldn't be all that concerned about it as I can get new after market fenders and side covers for a reasonable price, but the tank is a whole nother (is that a word?) story.

Kel

6

Tech Talk / Plastic restoration

« on: January 11, 2008, 10:46:36 am »

Hi guys, I'm restoring a 1986 Honda XR80 for my grandson and have started sorting out the plastics. They are all there, and in reasonable nick, but weathered. Recently heard about a product called Krylon Fusion. It apparently is a flexible (when dry) paint that is designed to stick to plastic. Anybody have any experience with this product and/or know where it can be obtained here in Oz? Any help appreciated.

Thanks

Kel

7

Tech Talk / Re: Rewind your own stator coils

« on: January 11, 2008, 10:39:38 am »

Likely to be about the same. They just quoted me $145 to do the ignition coil on an 86 XR80. Don't know whether you can do anything with this, but you might be interested in it. http://home.comcast.net/~pgailunas/stator.html

Kel

8

Wanted / Re: need a pair of fork legs or lowers for a Suzuki GT250N-Z '79-'82

« on: January 05, 2008, 08:15:52 am »

Hi Doc, I've got a GT185 here, been stacked and I've pretty much gutted it, but the forks are still here. Chrome is knackered though. I think it's about a 74 model, but not sure. Disc brake anyway. Also have the caliper, but no master cylinder. I still have the 17" front rim here too. You're welcome to come and take the lot away if ya want it.

Kel

9

Wanted / 1986 Honda XR80R

« on: January 05, 2008, 07:55:51 am »

Hi guys, Chasing all the parts to convert a 1986 XR80R from points to CDI ignition. Would need all bits from a 1993 or later XR80R ie: Stator plate with coil and trigger, fly wheel, wiring harness, coil and CDI unit. Any or all parts considered, or any leads appreciated. Thanks.  Kel

10

Tech Talk / Re: RM80B not running well

« on: October 24, 2007, 12:56:33 am »

Try these instead of the other links:-{

11

Tech Talk / Re: RM80B not running well

« on: October 23, 2007, 11:14:23 am »

Hi Doc, Danny said he'd do your bore and chamfer for you as long as your not in a screaming hurry. Might take him a few weeks to get to it. If you're still interested in the swap I'll work something out with him to cover his work. I know he has a sun room he wants turned into a bedroom 

Nice bikes BTW. I know what you mean about parts. My DT250A is a problem also. Dylan and Katie are on my back to go racing with them at North Bris. It should go OK in the post classics there when I get it done. This will be a first for me, as I just love to go bush and disappear for a few hours. The links are to a photo of the bush pig (my bitsa bike) and the RM80 with the pit bike forks. I've still got to modify the forks a bit.

Later

Kel

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/honda_clone/photos/view/63a9?b=3

http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/honda_clone/photos/view/63a9?b=5

12

Tech Talk / Re: RM80B not running well

« on: October 16, 2007, 01:05:18 pm »

Hi Doc and Lozza,
Quick update. Carby clean and electric connector clean made no difference. Decided to pull the cylinder off as it felt like compression was down a little. The piston is on first oversize, but the guy I bought it off said he'd put in a new piston (says he's a mower mechanic). The bore isn't brilliant and I think I should go to the next oversize as the ring end gap is almost 0.1 over max spec. Also found that the reed stop spec was way off. Supposed to be 7.35 - 7.4 and was actually only 3.5mm.

I was surprised to find I can still get Wiseco piston kits for a 77 model. Wonders never cease :-} I'll get a 1mm over kit and throw it and the barrel over to my son-in-law. He's an engine rebuilder and does rebuilds for my grand kids (among others) race bikes. Does an excellent job too.

Have a bit of time now to do the top rebuild as my grandson who I'm doing the bike for broke his wrist at a practice day at the North Brisbane track last Sunday. He wasn't too bad with it considering he's only 9, but my daughter tells me he cracked at the hospital when the doc told him he'd be in plaster for 4 weeks. Was a tad pissed that he wouldn't be able to ride the last 4 meetings for the year.

Later guys.

Kel

13

Tech Talk / Re: RM80B not running well

« on: October 08, 2007, 09:54:05 am »

Hi Lozza,
Thanks for the confirm on the carby. I'll get some carby cleaner this week and give it a good soak. Make sure everything is clear and reassemble with the filter and see how she goes. My brother only lives at Kallangur (10 minutes away) so I'll blow it all out also.

Thanks for the complement on the forks. I used a mill. I also had to bush the axle holes down to 10mm as the pit bike uses a 12mm axle. Then I had to make up new spacers and a longer axle (10mm chrome rod). Then I had to make up a bracket to bolt to the caliper mount and slot into the original brake hub. Bit of fiddling around, but it all works OK.

I think I'll also remove the old bullet connectors and put in some new spade connectors for the CDI.

Thanks again for the help guys.

Kel

14

Tech Talk / Re: RM80B not running well

« on: October 05, 2007, 03:10:34 am »

Hi Doc, Thanks for the reply. I pulled the carby again and stripped it. Did find some fine sand in the float bowl. The tank had a few dings in it when I got the bike. Not too bad but looked ugly. I sand blasted the tank before repairing it and thought I had the cap and tap outlets blocked. Apparently not well enough :-{ I'll try an inline fuel filter and see what happens. Unfortunately when I went to blow the carby out my compressor went bang and the smoke got out. Knocked out the house safety switch. I'll have to wait till I can get time to get to my brothers place to give it a blow out before reassembly. Wont be till after next week now though, as I have 2 grandkids racing in the Australian Dirt Track Championships this weekend at the Gold Coast. Takes precedence over everything.

Also I noticed that the CDI unit has rubber gromets in the mount holes. I assumed they were for insulation? There again I don't think it has the original CDI either, as there is one wire (blue with white stripe) that has been snipped of. Any idea how to clean bullet connectors? I pulled the 2 plug connections apart and the male bullet ends are quite rusty looking. They are easy enough to clean, but how do you get at the inside of the female sockets?

While I had the tank off I thought I'd check the coil as well, and I don't think it would be earthing too well as there is paint on the mount points. I've cleaned them up as well.

You're right about not having the original front end. When I got the bike the forks were (still are) very pitted, so I machined out the bottom tree clamp of a set of pitbike forks and fitted the RM80 stem bolt to them. They are close to the same length, and now that it's done they will be easy to replace when they screw up, and they're as cheap as chips to buy new. Can replace then almost as cheap as putting new seals and dust covers in the original forks. The bike wasn't rebuilt to race so the lack of originality is no big deal, just a bit annoying.

I'll have another crack at it next week and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again

Kel

15

Tech Talk / RM80B not running well

« on: October 04, 2007, 02:14:40 am »

Hi guys,
Been working on restoring a 1977 RM80 for the past 8 months. It's going great, and I took it for it's first ride in a long time the weekend before last. Went well then, but last weekend not so well. It starts on the first or second kick from cold and idles well, but seems to bog down under load. There is a slight hesitation on acceleration as well. If you have a rolling start it will go when the clutch is released, but from a standing start it just stalls unless the revs are really (about 4000 RPM) high.

I pulled the carby and stripped and cleaned and reassembled it. Made no difference.

About the only thing I changed from the first ride was to move the CDI unit from the frame steering head back under the side cover so I could stick a front number plate on. Do you think there may be a lose wire connection somewhere, and would this cause the problem?

Any advice greatly appreciated thanks.

Kel

PS The bike is running a Mikuni carby from an unknown YZ80.