Messages

1

Honda / Re: CR480 Carb Upgrades

« on: June 30, 2014, 06:53:17 am »

Well I now have all the parts.  I will jet the PWK like a stock CR500 PJ Keihin, as a baseline.  Anyone running a PWK on a "modern" CR500?  Does the pilot jet need to be smaller in the PWK?

I just tossed the stock PJ from my 1997 CR500, and installed a 38mm Quad-vent PWK airstriker from a 97 KX250.  The bike starts so much better now! Main jet will be close to what the PJ used.  You are right in thinking the PWK will like a leaner pilot jet than the PJ did.  I'd start with 2 sizes smaller pilot in the PWK than what you were running in the PJ. You may still have to go smaller on the pilot, but 2 sizes smaller than the PJ is a good starting point.

I live at 5000' above sea level in the US. I was running  a #50 pilot in the PJ. I initially tried a #45 in the PWK, but it still started hard and was way too rich when the bike was warm.  I ended up going to a #42, then a #40, and I've finally settled at a #38 pilot.  The bike now starts with 2-3 kicks cold, and will idle within about 60 seconds of starting if the temperature is above 60 degrees F.  When warm, the bike still idles great and has smooth, responsive low-rpm power.

Hope this info helps! 

2

General Discussion / Re: cr with xl power

« on: December 02, 2009, 08:29:12 am »

All the bikes in this thread are great, but this one is pure SEX.   Great bike!

3

Tech Talk / Re: YZ dual leading shoe front brake

« on: April 30, 2009, 05:13:21 am »

Thanks Wally!! Gret ideas!!!

i'm not familiar with the actual mechanism of the brake assembly you are looking at but there are a few basic essentials to check.the shoe linings need to be the same radius as the drum so that full area contact over the lining area is attained when the brake is applied.you may have to take the shoes to a brake specialist to have them radius ground to achieve this. next you need to have made certain that the backing plate assembly is centralised in the drum.i always apply the brake as i tighten the axle.this is critical if the backing plate has clearance on the axle....On some makes the brake cable outer is on one lever&the inner cable pulls the other lever towards the first lever.this ensures that the both shoes contact the drum in unison. on the type that has an adjustable rod between the two levers the common method would be to disconnect the rod, push the two levers with you fingers till the shoes each contact the drum and get an assistant to adjust the length of the rod so that the clevis pin can slide straight in. Twin leading shoe brakes can be savage when cold so the shoes are usually adjusted to drag slightly when cold, also as mx 250 said they don't work real well backwards, plus they tend to get erratic when cold  and fade when hot.cheers wally.

4

Tech Talk / Re: YZ dual leading shoe front brake

« on: April 28, 2009, 01:54:21 am »

Ahhh.......its all so clear to me now!

By the way Graehme, let me in on the joke.
What does Gazza mean?  I only speak American, not Aussie.

Michael = Mick, Charlie = Chazza, Barry = Bazza, Warrick = wazza, Garry = Gazza. Just a cheeky familiarity . When we get to know you and get really friendly we'll probably call you Septic .

5

Tech Talk / Re: YZ dual leading shoe front brake

« on: April 28, 2009, 12:48:45 am »

Thanks for the advice gents.  I knew that both cams weren't perfectly in sync, but they are only slightly out of sync. 
I will rectify that and it should help, but I have a funny feeling that my new cable might just be too long.

By the way Graeme, let me in on the joke.
What does Gazza mean?  I only speak American, not Aussie.

6

Tech Talk / YZ dual leading shoe front brake

« on: April 27, 2009, 03:22:17 pm »

Gentlemen,

I am working on repairing a 1983 YZ 250 that a friend of mine recently bought.  His goal is to make a nice trail bike out of it, but we have a problem with the front brake, or the cable rather.

We just fitted a new Motion Pro front brake cable and cannot get enough adjustment in the cable at the wheel or at the lever to take up all the slack.  The wheel will stop when the lever is squeezed, but the wheel can be made to turn by hand, so we know the brakes will be insufficient whilst riding the bike.  

The brake shoes are factory Yamaha and appear to have about 75% of the factory thickness remaining.

Am I overlooking something in the adjustment here?  I have been working with bikes from the 70's & 80's for nearly 20 years, but this is the first dual leading shoe Yammie I have dealt with.

By the way, yes, I am from the US. 

I decided to ask this question here first because the members of this board seem to be honest, knowledgable, and practical.
I am hoping that some of you Yamaha experts familiar with the early 80's bikes might offer some advice.

Thanks!

Gary (Wyoming, US)