OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: mx250 on August 26, 2009, 09:58:28 pm
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I just won these on EvilPay.
(http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn458/mx250syd/OzVMX/hubs.jpg)(http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn458/mx250syd/OzVMX/hubs2.jpg)
I was inspecting them thinking "gee, they look fairly polished under the grim". Flicked on the buff wheel and touched them to see what I had. Of course I couldn't stop. A couple of minutes they were looking like this.
(http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/nn458/mx250syd/OzVMX/P8260533.jpg)
Well pleased.
I like the appearance of polished alloy and I don't mind giving a fork leg or such a bit of a polish every now and then to keep the appearance but hubs are a different issue - my fingers are not that long, thin or flexible. So how do you clearcoat them to stop oxidising. (I'm thinking the residue of the polishing compound and the smooth surface is gonna make adhesion difficult!!)
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oh they look great will have to try it on my gt80 hubs as they dont appear painted in my original picture of it?
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The POR15 people sell a product specifically designed for this task. Never used it or even seen it applied, but the other stuff they sell all seems very good, so I reckon it would be worth a shot.
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If you want to clearcoat them, one of the only Clears that I know of that is recommended for polished aluminium
is called ''Glisten PC''. Made by POR15. www.por15.com
I have used it on a polished MTB frame and it stood up quite well to abuse, also on polished mag wheels.
Make sure you wipe them down well with pre-cleaner then wipe off with a clean rag.
It is a 2pak paint so you'll need a bit of spray equipment.
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2 pack clear paint (which is basically what the POR 15 stuff is they just use a fancy name) or even acrylic clear is fine and works. The oxidisation originally occurs when there is a nick or chip in the clear and then moisture gets in and corrodes under the clear. The key to stop this coming back once you have cleared it is to bake the parts to get the moisture out the pors before you clear coat it. It can look all shiny and nice after polishing and then you paint it clear but 2 weeks later white corrosion occurs under the alloy and you havent even chipped it! this is because of trapped moisture in the pors after many years. You gotta heat them up to dry out the microscopic pors. I have found just leaving them in the hot sun for a week or so or under the fire inside for a few nights has been enough or you can stick the parts in the oven inside. You also gotta degrase them well so the paint sticks well use de-wax and thinners and maybe contact cleaner after initially using de-greaser, detergent and water to get the polish off and then i even wash them in boiling hot water aswell if i feel its needed as the pors dry out quicker thatway. I go though a rigourouse procedure to ensure the alloy is ultra clean and grease free before appliying the clear.
Frosty, the jap stuff is usually clear coated or it might be silver paint. Test with a multi meter if your unsure. if it buzzes its bare alloy which means the original clear has come off or been removed or it never had any. If it doesnt buzz its painted or annodized. Simple check to rembember if your unsure by just looking at the part.
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Buzz as in set to continuity ?
we used to use Miritone when i worked in a golf pro shop dipping clubs, would that work ? seemed to hang on for a while in the field, and i dont remeber ever cleaning anything other than hitting them hard with a scotchbrite wheel. but that was 25 years ago .......