OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => Tech Talk => Topic started by: caps 999 on July 20, 2009, 08:25:55 pm
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does anyone have a process or a recomended way of stripping and respraying a complete motor ie pains undercoats and such
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there is more than one way to skin this cat but I have successfully bead blasted, standard etch primed and then used VHT Brake and caliper paint in satin to finish. This paint is rated to nearly the same temp as barrel paint, is chip and also chemical resistant. I like the satin finish and I haven't had any "failures" yet.
Rossco
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i know this i thought id just get an idea on how people have gone about doing this
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I tried to get my Z motor bead blasted while intact. Company flat out refused to do it, 'cos of possible ingress of abrasive no matter how well it was sealed. My XL motor was soda blasted intact (very well sealed) but to be honest, the soda did a crap job, wouldn't use it again for that purpose. Unless you want absolute concours finish maybe it is just as good to put in some work with fine wet & dry before painting?
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1. Seal up motor as best as possible.
2. Steam cleaner turned up to 'scorch'. Most times you'll get off all of the multiple layers of badly applied aerosol paint - but the factory paint won't be so co-operative. Sometimes the finish is such that you can simply spray straight over it and have it look OK (not awesome), but usually not. I guess some work with the wet and dry could blend the edges and make for a better job.
3. Unseal the motor, inc the gearbox oil drain plug and pour WD40 into everywhere that water got in (and you'll be surprised where it does and does-not get into).
4. Reseal the motor and clean off the WD40 that dribbled out everywhere.
5. Paint.
6. Remove and clean/replace all of the nuts/bolts with painted heads. Not doing this makes the engine look like bodgy shit, no matter how go a job you've done on the rest of it.
Nothing beats doing it properly - the above is fine for a dunger, but the few times I've done it, it leaves me feeling dirty and wrong and unsatisfied.
So then I go to Plan B:
Strip the egine down, and clean the parts in the parts washer at work, and then dry bead blast them if they need more 'love'. If they've gone anywhere near the blaster, then they go back through the parts washer for as many cycles as I can stand before I do anything else to them.
Then mock assemble the motor and hit the external parts with paint, and leave them to dry for as long as possible.
Wet blasting gives a better finish than dry blasting, if the cases are to be left unpainted.
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Capps I bead blasted my CR125 motor complete.I made up blank off plates for intake and exhust and sealed them on.
I did the blasting myself and was very carful in the way the blasting nossel was pointed.
I then eched primed and two packed the motor, it has lasted ok for the last three seasons of racing.
The first meeting I raced the piston dropped a skirt so a engine pull down was nessasary I found not one bit of blasting media in the engine at all and it was a full strip down( should have done it in the first place but was a bit strapped at the time)
I dont know if I would trust someone to do the blasting this way as I was very carfull with the blaster.
Andy Viper #70
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andy would you be willing to blast a motor up ill pay up front i just want to give the 480 a freshen up for next years viper
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Capps come and see me I will be at barrabool just spectating.
Do you need it in a hurry ? bit hard to lift things at the moment with the broken ribs
but I should be able to work somthing out if your not in a big hurry.
Andy Viper#70
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it wont be until vipers over for the year ive still got to race 3 more rounds so its really not a major rush job