OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Yamaha => Topic started by: Mark Austin on October 10, 2007, 10:36:23 pm
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Hi lads,
I've got the RT2 finished and ready to register. I'll post some photos in the next few days.
I have a small issue. I have the ignition mounted under the tank as per a RT1, as I haven't been able to find a correct RT2 ignition and there are a couple of strange things happening. All the wiring and ignition works except for the following:
1. The ignition is on all the time. I.e. if you turn the key to off, you can still start it.
2. The tail light is always on when I turn the ignition to the middle setting.
The lights work when you turn the ignition all the way up.
Any ideas what may be wrong? I'd like to be able to turn the key off and not be able to start the bike...
Cheers,
Mark.
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G'day Mark,
I am assuming the wiring connections are all correct (may pay to double check if you havn't already) and is the ignition switch in good condition or is it possible it has shorted out contacts (or is it the correct one for this model/wiring loom)?
check it out with a multimeter. also do you have a wiring diagram?
you may or may not remmber me, i met you and had a chat at CD4 in the "Corporate VIP" VIPER tent , we talked about Honda's and your smick red Guzzi.
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If all is well and correct Mark you should be able to pull out the ignition switch plug and start up the bike!!!! Yes not a real smart move Yamaha, but that is how they were. I will search out the correct RT2 switch with keys if possible for you. Tim
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errrr sorta sounds right :P, when you turn the key all the way lights are on,middle pos is ignition only,obviously key off pos should earth the maggy,to confirm lights on pos,you shouldn't be able to remove key from switch,(only in off pos),have a manual in shed somewhere,will check for you,cheers Mick
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oops,file size too big for wiring diagram,Mark want me to send direct?,it's only a "cycleserv manual",handy if you don't have one,i guess?,cheers Mick
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Hi Matchomick,
All seems OK, the ignition fits to all the correct wires and the correct colours.
The bike runs and the lights and blinkers work.
Still can't turn the ignition circuit off though.
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi Hoony,
Yep, I remember our conversation and your nice shiny red Hondas !
The mighty Guzzi was out on a run last weekend - my mate Murray on the Guzzi and me on my Bultaco Metralla. They tend to create a lot of attention those two bikes... V-Twin grunt and blue haze ring a ding.
The Guzzi got a flat and had to be taken home in the back of the ute - very undignified for the old girl.
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi Tim,
An original RT2 ignition, one on the handlebars rather than under the tank would probably solve the problem I reckon. I'd appreciate it if you could find one.
I can't believe it was a "design feature" for Yamaha to have the engine run without the key !!!@
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi lads,
I thought you may like to see the results of your advice on my RT2 - its finally finished and registered.
I now only need a few things:
1. A 360 badge for the exhaust, as my nice new one fell off on its first test ride !!!%@!!!
2. New front and rear sprockets - flat out it does 80km, and boy it it noisy with a 12T front and 49T rear sprocket. Standard is 15/39, which have been ordered.
3. Later model ignition switch.
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_009.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_49.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_006.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_34.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_021.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_12.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_007.jpg)
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2_38.jpg)
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Nice work Mark its' come up well , what year is that ?.
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Excellent work Mark, looks kewl 8). I can just see you smoke 'em and up setting the eastern surb yuppies come greenies :D
Found some period indicators :). Better look out for some period Yammy grips ::)
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Very sweet looking Yammie Mark. It would be a blast to ride her up and down the streets. ;D
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Excellent work, Mr Austin! 8)
At risk of sounding like a pedant (I'm not - it's a genuine question): Are they the right head-light mounts for this bike? I thought that only the very early AT/CT/DT/RT era bikes have the 2-piece (welded) brackets, and that the later ones had the one-piece brackets?
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Excellent work, Mr Austin! 8)
At risk of sounding like a pedant (I'm not - it's a genuine question): Are they the right head-light mounts for this bike? I thought that only the very early AT/CT/DT/RT era bikes have the 2-piece (welded) brackets, and that the later ones had the one-piece brackets?
You thought wrong Nat......
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l187/mx250a/partimage-1.gif)
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excellent job I must say - looks reaaaaaalllll good!!!
cheers
Rossco
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HI Mark,
Great resto. Can't wait to hear it in the flesh.
Good luck with the ignition problem - must be a first for this forum though - a bike that won't switch off!!! Most of the time the problem is the exact opposite.
Good luck
VMX42
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Thanks for the compliments lads.
Nathan, the reason I went for the blinkers on the headlight is coz I found an old parts book that had them set up that way.
I also managed to find some reproduction blinkers of the correct type for USD 20.00 on ebay. Thats a much better price that the USD 200.00 I saw a set go for recently !!
The bike is in pieces again, trying to fix the slipping clutch. The correct sprockets arrived and I have ordered a NOS 360 exhaust badge and a proper RT2 ignition, so maybe that will fix the strange going's on with the switch...
I'm looking forward to running around on it - and VMX42, you may see (and hear) me around the streets of Sydney soon enough!
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi lads,
I've run into some small problems with the mighty RT2. The clutch is still not working properly and now I've found out that the clutch basket is cactus.
Does anyone have a RT1 to RT3 clutch basket lying around, or know where I can get one?
Cheers,
Mark.
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hey Mark, what exactly is it the clutch is doing?
i've just rebuilt my RT1 and gave it a run down the industrial estate last sunday only to find a slight slip in the clutch. i'm hoping mine will come good with another ride as my motor has been sitting for a while and the problem was only slight.
still interested to see what your problem is though as i'm still learning my way around this old beast.
sorry, no spare clutch basket either.
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now I've found out that the clutch basket is cactus.
Does it look like this, note the square end fingers on the basket,
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l187/mx250a/rt2clutch.gif)
Does anyone have a RT1 to RT3 clutch basket lying around, or know where I can get one?
.....if so talk to me ;D
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Hi Graham,
Yeah it looks like that basket. The springs in the back part of the basket are broken...
It has three problems.
It was very heavy, it's not disengaging properly and it was slipping when accelerating in a higher gear.
It has new correct clutch springs and a new set of Barnett plates.
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi Vandy010,
The clutch slips under acceleration in the higher gears, and its also heavy...
Cheers,
Mark.
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The springs in the back part of the basket are broken...
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o
How in the hell did THAT happen. Must be putting out some serious horse power ;D
I'll have a look in the shed ;). I'll PM the findings :)
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I dunno, maybe it had something to do with the gearing that was on it. It topped out at 75 kmh and had 12/49 gearing vs 15/39 as standard....
::)
Cheers,
Mark.
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G'day Mark,
many years back i ran a barnett clutch kit (springs and fibre/steel plates) in my CR250 and it gave a very heavy clutch, from memory it had a extra plate i think and the springs were much heavier. i didn't like it i also think the plate thickness of the barnett plates were thinner than standard (hence the extra plate) wonder if this is the case with your RT2? maybe the plates are not the correct thickness? just a thought.
maybe NOS RT2 plates may be the go.
Good luck.
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Hi Hoony,
You could be right about that, I'm going to try the old plates, which seem serviceable, and see how it goes after that.
Hopefully with all this expertise from the forum, I can get it sorted and start terrorising the inner suburbs of Sydney - especially those environmentally friendly 4WD's. I especially hate the new Range Rovers - they are all black and all driven by gigantic wankers (male and female - is that possible)...
Cheers,
Mark.
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let us all know the outcome.
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Mark, It shouldn't be the thickness of the plates as I run an extra plate in the YZa basket on the DT1 from Hell. The YZ basket has the same dimensions as the stock DT1/RT2 clutch (except it's much lighter) so I don't think that's the problem. If the springs are broken in the basket and that's the only deviation from standard, I reckon that'll be the problem. I was going to Blayney for the Aussie Long Track Championships tomorrow but the rain has shot that little plan in the arse so I'll have another look for a spare clutch in another part of the shed for you tomorrow..........er..I drive a gas guzzling blackV8 4WD!
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I would shim the 6 springs or replace with EBC or Barnett springs, slipping usually indicates not enough preload(or too many neddies ;D). Even part No9 might need a little skim in the lathe.
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The clutch slip and the heavy action are secondary to the broken damper spings in the back of the basket. What did or could damage these is beyond my imagination.
Clutch slip on a standard RT is going to be worn parts or incorrectly assembled.
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Yeah Firko, you do drive one of those...
But its not brand new, its not a Range Rover, you're not a blonde bimbo, and you don't double park outside my house with the motor running for hours at a time !! 8)
Cheers,
Mark.
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Hi lads,
I think we have found the problem with the clutch. I have restored everything back to standard now, with a replacement clutch basket (thanks Graeme).
It now appears that the clutch actuator (no 21 shown below with the big red arrow!) is broken. It sits inside the left side engine sprocket cover. Does anyone have an old spare that may work? A DT1, DT2, DT3, RT1, RT2 or RT3 would work.
(http://marksbikes.heaven-vmx.com/images/rt2clutch_1.gif)
Cheers,
Mark.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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214-16340-00 fits alot of bikes should still be available on the shelf as Part # = 214-16340-00-00
Part Description = PUSH LEVER ASSEMBLY
Model Count = 21
DT1 1968 250 DT1 Dual Purpose
DT1B 1969 250 DT1 Dual Purpose
DT1C 1970 250 DT1 Dual Purpose
DT1C-MX 1970 250 DT1MX Dual Purpose
DT1E 1971 250 DT1 Dual Purpose
DT1MX 1971 250 DT1MX Dual Purpose
DT1S 1969 250 DT1S Dual Purpose
DT2 1973 250 DT2 Dual Purpose
DT2MX 1972 250 DT2MX Dual Purpose
DT3 1973 250 DT3 Dual Purpose
RT1 1970 360 RT1 Off-Road
RT1B 1971 360 RT1 Off-Road
RT1M 1970 360 RT1M Off-Road
RT1MX 1971 360 RT1MX Off-Road
RT2 1973 360 RT2 Off-Road
RT2MX 1972 360 RT2MX Off-Road
RT3 1973 360 RT3 Off-Road
YZ250A 1974 250 YZ250 Competition Motocross
YZ250B 1975 250 YZ250 Competition Motocross
YZ360A 1974 360 YZ360 Competition Motocross
YZ360B 1975 360 YZ360 Competition Motocross
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Hey Mark,
they can be a pain them things!
a while back i watched a NOS one on ebay in the states, it started out at around $2 and by the time the auction finished it closed for a gob smacking US$200 odd.
bewildered by this i told my yammie parts guy who proceeded to tap'dy tap'dy on his keyboard and said, "theres about 5 in the states right now for around $36.50 if ya want one".
go figure!
he also reckons the XS1 and XS2 share a very similar design and can be made fit but couldn't remember the exact details.
mine works ok but the clutch on these things i think will always be heavy.
cheers.
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lets see what this one goes for?
and then check your yammie parts guy...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-DT1-RT1-DT2-RT2-RT3-YZ360-Push-Lever-NEW-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35581QQihZ009QQitemZ190178900645QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
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and guess what - I need one for my YZ so if I find a source I shall let you know. NW Vintage cycle parts list them on Ebay but not their web site and have a $75-$80 reserve on them. Yamatopdog dont list them. They have a plastic worm drive that cracks on them so of course they get bought up over the years!!!
regards
Rossco
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When I was racing my DT1 back in the rearly 90's I broke one so I went to Penrith Motorcycle wreckers and bought up every good one they had and ended up with about five for about 5 bucks each. I then tucked them away in a nice safe place, ready for the future. Now I'm building two RT1 engines and setting up to eventually rebuild the DT1 do you think I can find 'em? No way. You watch. I'll go and spend dumb money buying one off NW or someone and then find the hidden stash. Happens far too often.
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I'll go and spend dumb money buying one off NW or someone and then find the hidden stash. Happens far too often.
You should whinge ::). Feel for me; My stash is in the garage, in a garden shed, in the spare room, under the house and a few important things like a restored tank is on the book shelf in the computer room with me ("but it Modern Art dear!!" :-*). And then I have stuff at my brother's, Bathurst (acres), and at the inlaws, Cessnock. And I have secret places within secret places and places I'm too scared to look (guilt ::)).
And Freaky wonders why I can't find an MX250 motor for him ::) :D
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This part 214-16340-00-00 is the achillies heel of old yamaha's with the type of set up.
I have had quite a few go on me over the years and they allways seem to bring good dollars on ebay.
I say buy them whilst you can.
You can do a conversion with a XS750 I think and the nylon worm is oposite to the yz, dt set up. The male part is metal and the female is a nylon set up.
I know a few guy's are doing this on YZ A's and B's in victoria due to the lack of this part. They have been moulding there own nylon part that inserts into the clutch mech and sprocket cover.
Has any body seen the prices the YZ A and B sprocket covers go for on ebay. $$$$$$$ especially NOS :o.
Adam
[attachment deleted by admin]
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What about the arms ? if it dont need to be NOS use the pivot arms, a lot of guys piss of the stock one in the US and us the lever arm n because as sure as during that last lap the thread will pull out and youll be stuffed. Some guy sell them on Ebay some times, but they are easy to make if you know people its a length of flat with a pivot.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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i don't quite get it freaky,
hows it work? got any pics of it mounted to a bike?
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Here we go.
[attachment deleted by admin]
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And again,
[attachment deleted by admin]
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i don't quite get it freaky,
hows it work? got any pics of it mounted to a bike?
Thanks to YZ 360 for the photo as its hard to explain, picture thousand words and all that.
They work really well and seem to be bullet proof, but then again they dont look Nos, but then again they look works - Up to you if want the real deal or you want one that will work for another 33 years ? these ones are out of Aircraft ally but they could be made out of any thing you like really, and thus priced accordingly.
At least its a viable option for you .
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that looks like it could be my kinda thing.
thanks for the heads up fella's!
now i know what to do with it, i can probably fab one up at work.
cheers!
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That chain guide looks trick also, is it a one off fabrication or a direct bolt on from something modern? Need one for my mx250.
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This is where you get it.
http://dnrproducts.com/dnrproducts.html (http://dnrproducts.com/dnrproducts.html)
[attachment deleted by admin]
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that looks like it could be my kinda thing.
thanks for the heads up fella's!
now i know what to do with it, i can probably fab one up at work.
cheers!
if you get it right give us the heads up ill buy ine :O), the trick is to clear the sprocket and also to get the leverage point right, the rest is just lining up the holes
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Hi from Johns:-
The headlight brackets are correct on the RT2. Used to work on these old girls.
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Hi lads,
I thought I'd post a few photos of my mighty RT2 - its finally registered and is running on the road.
I managed to find a correct clutch actuator and get the gearing sorted out.
It runs really well and leaves that lovely blue haze through the city!
The only slight thing I need to sort out is the carby settings at a very small throttle opening - maybe just 1/8 throttle. It seems to blubber and hunt back and forwards, but other than that it runs pretty cleanly as it has all new innards in the Mikuni.
I assume its the idle jet that is the problem or the settings. Does anyone have any advice on sorting it out?
Here are the photos:
(http://www.red-devil-racing.com/images/yam_011.jpg)
(http://www.red-devil-racing.com/images/yam_020.jpg)
(http://www.red-devil-racing.com/images/yam_023.jpg)
I'll be taking it to CD5 as my pit bike - and a legal pit bike at that...
Cheers,
Mark.
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spot on mark!
and as the owner of an RT1, i've thorouly enjoyed your efforts throughout this project. be nice to see it in the flesh at CD5.
cheers!
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Sweet resto. well done !
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I'm wondering if anyone has a resource to buy these? I have 2 Yammies in need of a device like this. It is a "pivot arm" to replace the OEM nylon clutch actuator.
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YEs been loking into them for a while now, can be bought out of usA, BUT HAVE GIVEN A PROTOYPRE TO pETE hOEY AND HE IS LOOKING INTO BUILDING SOME.
there are a few differant versions out there but they all work on the flat bar and hinged rod set up, if your not into details you can make one yourself out of steel , the money costs in these is the alloy versions, the only other problem is the provision to fit a sprocket cover to make it racing legal, but there is a work around and a mounting cover can be made to still get the clearance.