OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => CZ => Topic started by: Ji Gantor on May 18, 2009, 09:28:49 am
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I have started this topic because new parts are never just plug and play and some old parts need to be modified so they work. This should give a good look at what is required when assembling your project.
As we know the swingarm pivot pin goes dry over time and welds itself into place making it a mongrel job to get out and service.
The best solution is to provide a permanent means of lubrication, this way we can keep it working and stop it from seizing.
Ji
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Place the pivot pin cap bolt into a lathe and drill a hole 5mm diameter through the centre.
Ji
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Seeing how the CZ is metric we fit a M6 tap into the drill and tap a thread all the way through.
Ji
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Test fit a M6 grease nipple into the cap bolt.
Ji
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So the grease does not leak out we need a sealing washer.
I turned up a brass washer as my seal and then test fitted.
Looks good.
This should allow me to keep lubricant into all the nooks and stop the pin from seizing.
Ji
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nice job!
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Yeah Robert, nice job. Youve just inspired me to do the same to my Cheney. It was a nightmare removing the old siezed up pivot bolt and I don't want to go through that again. Wouldn't it be easier to just fit a grease nipple to the swingarm itself though?
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Thank you shortshifter,
I was hoping to see you at Cooroy on Saturday.
Ji
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Hi firko,
Thanks for the kind words.
I am going to fill the pivot pin with low temp grease so it will heat up and flow.
The swingarm has two bearing sections so I would have to install two grease nipples. This would modify the swingarm which I could not bring myself to do. The pivot pin has ports so the oil can flow to the bearings and I am going to improve them for better lubrication. The centre of the pivot pin is hollow providing a good grease reservoir. If I was to place a grease nipple at both swingarm locations this would only allow me to pump in a small amount of grease due to the very small gap between the bush and bearing.
Ji
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The original swingarm bearings are 40mm long and have two ports and an internal gallery to distribute the oil to the outer brass bush. In the manual they are called spacers, but I think they are made of bearing steel.
Ji
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I went to my local bearing shop and asked if they could supply the swingarm bearings but the only thing they had was an "Internal Bearing Ring" that is only sold 20mm long. They cost about $10.00 each and I had to purchase 4 of them to match the existing ones.
Ji
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Place one of the new bearing inner rings into your lathe and install a boring bar.
You can make a square or a tapered cut about half way through the thickness of the ring. This is going to be half of the new oil gallery.
Ji
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With a very small grinding stone in your Dremel artfully insert 4 half ports.
The original only had two so this should distribute the lubricant more efficiently.
All edges that have been worked should be deburred with 800 wet and dry sand paper before installed into the swingarm.
Ji
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From my limited experience with these pivot pins I have found that they seize on the engine mounting tube. As can be seen there are only two oil ports that service the bearings only. So to solve the seizure problem we need to do something about lubricating the pivot pin, chassis mount and engine mount interface.
Ji
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This is the swingarm and engine mount test fitted with the pivot pin.
The engine mount tube that the pivot pin passes through receives very little oil, but as the "O" rings break down this section collects dirt and water and rusts solid.
This is in my opinion the trouble spot that needs more attention.
Ji
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Yes Ji I would have loved to have been there but I had to work and all my bikes are in various stages of repair so I don't have any to ride.Do you still want Fruity's number?
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Yes Please.
Ji
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When the bearing inner races have their gallery and all 4 ports they should look like this.
This should now lubricate the bearings like their designer intended.
Ji
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I do not recommend that anyone try this next step. Please do not modify any parts unless you have had an engineer check and certify that it will be structurally sound.
To lubricate the engine mount tube and the chassis interface I set the pivot pin into the drill press and drilled four 3mm dia holes right through the pin. This should allow the grease to get to the areas were seizure occurs and if we are lucky it should also prevent or at least purge water from the system.
Ji
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To help the flow of oil and increase the reservoir I have opened the exit ports on the pin.
This was done with a cylinder grinding stone fitted into a Dremel.
I did all the ports new and old.
Ji
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I then deburred all the worked surfaces.
This pin should now get oil to where it is needed and should prevent seizure, not that that means I can now set and forget. It will still need to be serviced every year so I can see how it is going and change out what ever parts are worn.
Ji
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To deburr the exit ports I used a countersink bit.
To clean out the inner bore of the pivot pin I used a spray gun brush.
Ji
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The brass bushes that are inserted into the swingarm tubes may have to be honed so the new bearing inner rings will fit. As can be seen they have a spiral gallery that will bur when the old bearing inner rings were pushed out.
Ji
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First test fit the new bearing inner rings and see if they slide in and rotate without any force. Mine will only go in half way before they lock. These brass bushes will have to be honed.
If the new bearing inner rings are sloppy in the brass bush, the brass bush will have to be replaced.
To find the tight areas try and rotate the rings and then remove. The tight areas will have scratches and these are the areas to focus on. Go slowly as brass is soft.
Ji
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I honed my brass bushes with some 240 wet and dry sand paper.
It took a while but I only removed what was required.
Ji
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Test fit the new bearing inner rings.
They now move freely and can be pushed right through the brass bush without any force.
Ji
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The divider washers that sit between the swingarm and the engine mounting tube are badly grooved and need to be replaced. I have a steel bar that is the right diameter so off to the turning shed.
Ji
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First turn the bar down to the correct outside diameter.
Then face the front.
Next I had to cut a taper on the face to match the existing ones.
Ji
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Next I used a series of drills to create the bore of 19mm.
Ji
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The actual bore is 20mm so I finished the hole with a boring bar.
Ji
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Now that the overall shape has been turned I need to part or seperate the divider washer off the bar.
Ji
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A small machining tip, hunt around on ebay for reamers they have a better fininsh than boring bars and more accurate aswell. Boring bars flex and make the saddle on the lathe move(why they will cut on the way out).Reamers make a straight concentric bore because all the loads are on the centreline of the lathe.You just do the last 1mm or less with the reamer.
Keep up the good work.
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Hi Lozza,
That is gold.
Thanks for your contribution.
Ji
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Some hints from an ex toolmaker who knows bugger all, lol.
Even when using a reamer, for accuracy bore out the hole first. This will ensure the bore is concentric as drills can occasionally run off centre and the reamer will then follow that hole (a reamer is a sizing tool not a de-facto drill. Also beware they can create an oversize hole in certain situations - rare but possible)
Reaming speed is usually 1/6 of normal cutting speeds and the feed rate (the speed the tool passes through or over a job) is higher than when using a drill.
The finish of the bored hole doesn't have to be too flash and should be approximately .5mm undersize (.015' - .020") and like everything in life too much lubrication is never enough!
Always use a proper machining lubricant such as Trefolex which ensures good surface finish and longer tool life. For aluminium kerosene also works very well.
If reaming a blind hole (ie a hole which doesn't pass through an object) try and drill deeper than the required reamed depth by a few mm.
If excessive deflection of a boring bar occurs you may have too much play in the cross slide and compound slide which can be adjusted on most lathes. The conventional saddle running on V ways normally doesn't budge. Old lathes may also have wear in the headstock bearings causing deflection.
When using a boring bar try and use the largest available for the job. If the machine is solid and the tool bar is solid deflection will be bugger all. Irrespective of carbide insert bars or high speed steel the cutting edge must be maintained to optimum cut or deflection will occur.
Hope this and Lozza's posts help things along and Ji keep those posts coming !!!
Dave Mac :D
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Gold, Gold, Gold
Thanks Dave.
I should let people know that I am not a Fitter and Turner. I have completed one course at a TAFE College covering milling, turning and cutting of metals. Through the course of this topic I am only showing what I have done with the tools I have available. This does not mean that this is the only way to get the job done as we have seen from Lozza and Dave.
The divider washer in my case does not need to have an exact bore so a drill would have been okay but I only have a 19mm and a 21mm so I had to use a boring bar. I don't have reamers but I have used them before on bushes that had to be very accurate. They work great but a bit slow as they are not calibrated and I had to keep checking the diameter. On my job I just checked and I would have had to use two reamers to go from 19mm to 20mm. The job would have been smooth if I did use a reamer.
Thanks Lozza and Dave very fine contributions to this topic.
Ji
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Dave, Dave, Dave if your off centre use a D bit ;D, for ali get some 'Relton A9' which is far better than kero and stops any build up on the tool especialy 6060(6000 series in general), sounds like you used adjustable reamers, chucking/machine reamers are a set size.Although adjustable reamers have a nice feature, of being able to 'clamp' a bore run it between centres and machine an OD concentric to the bore.Helpful for very thin items that can't be held in a chuck. Should shout yourself a deburring tool also(if you don't already have one)
If your at all interested in home type machining start buying 'Model Engineers Workshop' will teach you much more than TAFE ever will, Harold Hall's books are very informative also
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Always use a proper machining lubricant such as Trefolex
Call me a weird old old nostalgic but I love the smell of Trefolex....nothing like it.
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Hey Lozza - I did say at the start I know bugger all !!!
I was just generalising for Ji as most hobby guys don't have the need to 'tool up' rather than make the best of what they already have eg kero. Full marks for suggesting mounting thin wall stuff on a mandrel - always a good solution to thin wall which can also get chatter very easily.
Everyone should have a de-burring tool - seriously ! At the least a small triangular file can be ground down - I still use the ones I made as an apprentice including one with a carbide insert for one edge. Check out Aussie ebay # 110388119447 or 260411971566
Hey Firko - you need help ! The smell of Trefolex still reminds me of early mornings riding to work on my 750S, filthy machine shops and trying to wipe the green goo off jobs, lol - still wouldn't swap those days for anything!
Dave Mac ;D
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When parting off such a large lump of steel always use a live centre or you will have to buy another parting insert.
The tool behind the dividing washers is a deburring tool.
Ji
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The two new shiny dividing washers are now ready to be installed.
I could polish them to a smooth finish but there is no need.
I will turn up another pair out of stainless steel but that will be after CD6.
Ji
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Test fit dividing washers onto the pivot pin.
Looking good.
I don't know Lozza, I think my TAFE lecturers did okay, God rest their soles.
Ji
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Ji, looking good :) what model lathe are you using ?
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Hi Oldfart,
My lathe is a cheap Chinese one.
The most important thing about lathe's is knowing how to use them and having all the tools, otherwise they just spin stuff.
Ji
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Ahhh Ji,
I wish all students where like you, I'm a TAFE teacher and 99% of students don't give a toss........let alone turn up for class
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Hi evo550,
I did my Associate Diploma at the South Brisbane campus back in 1981. The buildings were old but had great facilities. Our lecturers were all in their 50ties and all were respected men in their fields. Yes they were paid to be there but most were dedicated to helping those that truly wanted to learn. Our metal workshop lecturer was a gun welder, turner and millist. During our first session he showed us what he could do and I was amazed by this old fellows talent, I was only 18 at the time. He then told us if we wanted to pass this course we would all have to be able to do the same. I absorbed a life time of knowledge from that man over the next 6 months. I never once saw our teacher make fun of a failing student nor not answer a question. He guided 30 students to pass the course without anyone getting hurt boy or girl. During that 6 months not one student dropped out. The college went on to become part of the Queensland University of Technology or QUT just after I finished my Ass Dip.
To show disrespect for these fine men would be to disrespect myself. I could not do it. There are only a few people in this world that will teach you stuff over your life when you look back. Your Mum and Dad, first grade school teacher, the person that shows you the ropes at your first job...
I have been very lucky that others have taken the time to show and share with me their experience and talent and for that I will always be grateful.
Ji
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This is a side track but just so interested members know what is possible with a Chinese lathe, tools and a little knowledge can do.
Last year my son was in grade 8. He had to make a Greek sword for his SOS class assignment. So over Easter we both spent all 4 days in the turning shed from 8.00am to 5.00pm in an attempt to get the job done on time.
Hollywood started by searching the internet for a picture of said sword, while I looked through the pile of billet for some thing we could use.
He found a design and I found the following bar stock.
Doesn't look like much.
Ji
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We both figured out that the handle would take the most time to do so we marked it out and Hollywood started turning.
Ji
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I can hand shape wood pretty good so I started on the blade.
Because it is a dangerous weapon we could not make the blade out of steel (School Rules).
Ji
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After finishing the handle Hollywood went on and turned up the counterweight.
I had finished the blade so I painted the counterweight in a traditional brass paint.
Ji
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Next Hollywood turned his attention to the guard.
He turned it and I milled and painted it.
Ji
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At 5.00pm on Monday after noon we assembled the Greek sword Ji and Hollywood style.
Looking good.
Even his mother that is our greatest critic said "Looks nice, now you can start on the kitchen tiles"
Hollywood received an A for the assignment and received an A for metal shop even though this work of art had nothing to do with metal shop.
My son will never forget his 4 days off working in the turning shed. I know he would have preferred to be watching cartoons but every now and then when one of his good friends is around he always shows them the sword and speaks with pride. That is the greatest gift a student can give.
Ji
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Not bad for a 13 year old lad.
I set the bar stock and tools up in the lathe but he did all the turning, drilling and smoothing.
Look at the work in the handle. It took two days to complete.
Ji
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Milling
I can not stand milling, it is too slow.
However I do love what it makes.
A lot of years ago I had to attend a Punk party. I looked through all the jewellery shops but I could not find a cross the size I wanted, so I decided to make one out of 10mm billet.
The surface was like a mirror but Hollywood saw it and now it is as you see it. He tells me that those marks are "Street Cred" funny it looks more like the cross has been through quite a few exorcisms to me, but what would I know I don't have any "Street Cred"
Ji
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Fine milling on the back of the cross allowed me to connect the chain.
Ji
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My cheap Chinese die holder broke over the Anzac Day weekend. All the tool shops were closed but I needed to get a job done, so I found some steel bar and started turning.
Now I know this one will not break.
Ji
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The clamp that holds my light onto my work bench broke so I just turned one up. Every one that sits at that bench always askes "Where did you get that"
Ji
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I use a lot of punches with all the things I have to fix and it is really cool when you make one specific for a job.
I have always been fascinated by knurling. It is the same process as threading a spoke. The knurling tool is pushed into the metal and the metal flows up into the grooves making the pyramid shapes that give grip to an object.
Pretty cool stuff.
Ji
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;Di might be a newbe but i love cnc machined shit, home made triple clamps billet every thing sorry i might be showing off a bit but nothing beats a cnc smoking in 5 axis with swarf going every where :D
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Hi Ji,
All very entertaining, but do you have any suggestions on how you get so much shed time. Are your days longer than mine, or is it something simple?
VMX42
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;D some pople have me time i have bike time !!!!!!!!!! to mums distaste some times but yer still seem to need more time :-[
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;D here is some cool machined stuff :D
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I often say I how I don't know how I would get by without a lathe and a mill of sorts. Only problem is you tend to run out of capacity very quickly, then need to purchase additional tooling(I dunno if this is the case with 5 axis).I would estimate double the purchase price of a mill will be what you will spend with tooling.Lathes are not as bad but still the tooling is required to get the most from it.
HERE (http://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid=17) is a very good tool for the home workshop.Ji you need power feeds ;D
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Oh what the hell.
I made another pair of the dividing washers out of stainless steel this afternoon.
Just to show how to get the job done if you forgot something like the taper I have set up the following example.
Remember "Tool Of The Week"
It was the Toledo collet slide hammer puller for wheel bearings.
Well if you forgot to put the taper on the washers you can make a mandrel which will take time or just select the right size collet and place in the lathe. The collet holds the washer while you turn the taper onto the face.
Pretty cool hey.
Ji
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I have now cleaned, buffed and polished the engine to a state were I am happy with only 2 weeks to go before CD6. I have started to attach the case covers to see how they look.
It is all looking good.
Shiny happy
Ji
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The triple clamps have now been cleaned, buffed and polished.
They are now ready to be placed on the frame.
Ji
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Hey Ji - Come clean mate - you missed a few spots on the fins. Back to the Ajax and the tooth brush buddy !!!
The bike is shaping up to be one stunner - keep on keeping us informed.
Dave Mac :D
BTW - What is your next project after the one we are seeing taking shape ?
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ive got one he can do ;) lol
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I now have two steel and two stainless steel dividing washers.
Ji
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The new plastic air filter box has to be fitted first into the frame before anything else so mark the holes and drill.
Ji
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To get the air filter threaded rod to stand straight up inside the box I have to mill two nylon wedge shaped washers.
I am going to use 10mm thick millable nylon to make the wedges. I mark out what I require and with a scroll saw start cutting.
Ji
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all looking great whats the best stuff to use when polishing engine cases barrel and heads that airbox looks trick thanks Michael :)
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I then place a belt sander upside down on top of a rubber mat so it does not move and sand the shape into the block that is required.
Ji
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When I had the shape just right I then drilled a 6mm hole and deburred.
Deburr nylon with a stanley knife.
Ji
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Very important.
To prevent the air filter nut coming loose and going through the engine drill a 2mm diameter hole through the threaded rod and twist some S/S safety wire.
Ji
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With both nylon wedges shaped test fit in the box.
The threaded rod is now standing up straight like it should.
Looks great.
Ji
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frosty for polished cases i take them off the motor and bead blast out any corrosion and blast in the recess' for the screws and then use hand tools, sandpaper and air or electric sanders to get all the little knicks,burs and deep scratches out then i use various grade scotch bright wheels on a pedistal polishing machine (bench grinder with grining wheels removed) and the i use a stiched calico/rag mop with a polishing compound, then finish off with an un-stictched rag mop wheel. After that i use degreaser to remove all the black polish left behind then also wash of with detergent. The end result is a mirror finish on alloy. Is that what you wanted? if you dont have access to that equipment you can use sand paper and then work your way through the grades of wet and dry paper, then use green sotch bight pads, then use black and gold steel wool soap pads with water. this will give a finish very, very close to pure miror finish (good enough for most people). If you want it a tad better then use a soft rag and polish by hand with Autosol or Reflection Metal polish. Relfection is the better of the 2. You can actually use Relfection polish after about grade 800 wet and dry, thats how good that stuff is.
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Loctite the internal holding nut to the threaded rod.
We don't want it moving around.
Ji
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Thanks Leith i have saved that info ill give it a crack when the little gt80 is nearly finished unless someone has nos cases and head and barrel thanks alot Michael. :)
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When both nylon wedges are installed at the base of the air box the threaded rod is where its designer intended straight up.
Ji
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That looks great Ji did you make your own air filter cage and for any specific filter is the airbox the same dementions as stock or larger/smaller thanks Michael. :)
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To make sure the lower nut does not come loose I have drilled a 2mm diameter hole and twisted some S/S safety wire to secure.
Ji
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The CZ air box has two strut brackets that attach to the frame. They are made of steel and painted.
I decided that I would like them to be made from aluminium so down to Bunnings.
Bunnings sells this aluminium bar for about $5.00.
I traced the original bracket onto some scrap paper.
Ji
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I guillotined off a piece and shaped the ends with a bench grinder.
Ji
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Then I clamped our new strut into the mill vice and fired the old girl up.
I love slotting holes, I mean who doesn't.
Ji
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Deburr and clean her up and hey presto "Here Is One I Made Earlier"
Cheap parts, I love it.
Ji
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Hi Frostype400,
Yep what LWC said.
It takes time but you get a great finish.
If you have a commercial company polish your cases they charge about $60.00 a case. The CZ has 6 cases in all so that would be $360.00.
Ji
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Hi Frostype400,
No, I purchased a Uni Filter that came with the foam and the cage all in one.
I can not make everthing, there is just not enough time My wife still tells me that she wants to see me once a day at least.
The plastic air box was made in the States and is very similar to the CZ one.
Ji
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Hi Paul,
Thanks for thinking of me but I have enough projects to fill my days for the next two seasons. Then my wife demands that the kitchen floor is to be tiled or I will be leaving her, or something like that, I was too busy to hear her over the mill.
Ji
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Hi maicomc490t,
Yeah I probably missed a whole heap of spots on the engine.
I just don't have the time to get the bike ready the way I would like before CD6.
I will try harder next time with the photoshop so you don't see my oversights.
Next project !
Kitchen floor tiles or I will have to restore my wedding tackle.
I don't understand what that means, my wife told me to write it. She tells me she knows whats best for me.
Ji
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oh well looks good now you have done alot of work to it by the looks of it good job thanks Michael. :)
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And now there are two air box struts.
Looking good.
Ji
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To install the motor the swingarm has to be connected.
So today we start with all the major parts ready to go.
Ji
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First grease the brass swingarm bush. Make sure you fill all the gallerys.
Ji
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Grease and install the bearing inner rings into the swingarm.
Ji
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Install all 4 "O" rings.
Ji
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Grease the chassis swingarm tubes.
Ji
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Grease the engine mount tube.
Use anti-seize grease.
Ji
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Grease the pivot pin and place it just inside the chassis tube.
Ji
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With the dividing washers in place install the engine mount into the chassis.
I found it easier to install the engine mount into the swingarm away from the frame and then slide it into place. The "O" rings are hard to compress while installing the dividing washers.
Ji
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Position the lock washers and install the end cap bolts.
I have installed the cap bolt with the grease nipple on the wrong side because it was easy to take photos of it that way. The grease nipple needs to be on the other side or the rear brake rod will clash with it.
I have secured the lock washers with S/S safety wire.
Connect a grease gun and fill the cavity inside the pivot pin until it runs out the opposite cap bolt threaded area.
Ji
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ji
my cz400 has the bolts drilled so you lock wire the bolts no way they are coming off then
keep it coming
jim
cz400 1972
cz250 1973
both projects
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Install the shoocks.
Loctite the shock mount bolts or use a new spring washer. I did both.
Ji
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Next I have to fit the engine so place the chassis on a piece of carpet on the floor.
Wrap some Ableflex around the chassis rails where the paint may get damaged if the engine drops.
I placed a section of 10mm thick nylon onto of the bottom rails just in case, ply would have worked as well.
I taped the engine mounts so I did not take any paint off as the engine was slid into place.
Have another person help guide the engine into the mounts and install the bolts while you hold the engine.
Ji
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So the rear guard can to fitted the seat has to be in place.
The new plastic seat pan needs to have connection plates installed.
Ji
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This is what the original front seat pan connection looks like.
Ji
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This is my home made plate shear I made.
It is cutting the 25mm wide x 3mm thick alloy seat connection plate.
Ji
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Shape the plate and drill two 5mm diameter holes.
Ji
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The front seat pan connection plate sits directly over a chassis tube so the bolts have to be countersunk into the alloy plate.
Ji
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Line up the plate onto the pan and drill the holes through the plastic pan.
Test fit.
The seat foam will be glued on top of these bolts so there will be no access so I have used nylocks and a drop of loctite.
Looking good.
Ji
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Because these bolts are unserviceable I used stainless steel.
Use a cut off wheel on a Dremel and shorten the bolt ends.
Ji
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Test fit the seat.
Looking good.
Ji
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Hey Ji
Stuff going to work tomorrow - stay up all night and finish the bike - it is shaping up to be a beauty. It's great to see someone with such a passion for getting the job done right first time.
All very interesting and entertaining - we are expecting a full description of re-tiling the floor too you know !!!
All good
Dave Mac ;)
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Hi maicomc490t,
Thanks for the kind words.
I have to work tomorrow or I will not be able to buy more S/S bolts for the project.
I also have to purchase a rubber strip that finishes the rear guard, hopefully I will be able to purchase both items tomorrow and may be I might get a chance to fit tomorrow night.
The two rear guards are not easy to fit as they are very 3D. I spent an hour today with little to show for it.
The floor tiles are those really big ones 600x600 porcelain. They are so heavy it is not funny. You use a suction cap to lay them on the adhesive. The floor has to be level within 1mm over 5 metres or you see the slope in the reflection. I am not looking forward to that job. But I am sure once it is done I will be happy. Happy I don't have to do it again.
Ji
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The air box strut is attached to a spacer and a rubber boot.
The steel spacer has a 9mm internal bore.
The bolt that came out of mine was an M6.
I cannot find this bolt in the parts manual so I will assume that it is an M6.
Ji
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I have to make an internal bore spacer for this bolt.
I have placed a 10mm diameter alloy bar into the lathe and deep drilled it.
Ji
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That is a 6mm diameter drill bit that has bored the bar out by 60mm.
The spacer only needs to be 55mm long but you have to allow for facing and parting.
Ji
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Turn the outside diameter down from 10mm to 9mm.
Remember to go past the length you need for facing and parting.
Ji
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Next we part the spacer off.
Face the ends so they are square and place a small chamfer on the leading edges so the spacer will push in easy.
Ji
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Test fit the new spacer.
Fits like a glove.
Ji
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Slide the new M6 bolt into the spacer and the job is done.
That was a great little lunch time job, oh well back to work.
Ji
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Has a bike ever been restored with greater TLC? 8)
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Has a bike ever been restored with greater TLC? 8)
Or ever increasing meticulous detail...... I THINK NOT :o :o :o
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Thanks chaps for the kind words.
I am sure others are doing a better job than me, after all this is just a race bike.
I would like to do a museum bike with a full budget, now that is something to aspire to.
Ji
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Now is the time to start working on the tank.
The 1973 CZ came out with a steel tank attached by fin plates and bolts. I wish to change the 73 tank with an aluminium 74 tank. The 74 tank was held in place via a leather starp. I love the polished alloy tank but I prefer the fin plates and bolts.
I first wrap some Ableflex around the chassis to prevent scratching the paint.
Ji
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Gently slide the tank into position.
Make sure it is all the way down and sitting on the Ableflex.
Ji
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Next fit the seat, foam and all so we can see how it all fits.
Now we can start working out how we are going to connect the tank.
Ji
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While pushing slightly down on the tank to seat it into the Ableflex mark where a bracket is to be attached onto the tank to line up with the chassis bolt hole.
Ji
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With a scrap piece of 20mm wide aluminium plate fix a strip of double sided tape.
Ji
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Looks good I envy you, Just make sure you put the seat flaps on that hang off all the way around the edge like the orig. ones did. It look awsome.
CHeers
Nutz
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Position the scrap alloy plate and then with a thin steel ruler push the tape onto the tank.
Now we have where the bracket needs to go.
Do the same to the other side.
I have orientated the plate so it is level with the chassis bottom plate.
Ji
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ji u really dont miss a thing do ya mate :)
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Gi , Does the missus know your assembling this in HER kitchen
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Hi oldfart,
I don't know about Gi's wife or kitchen but the images of my bike have been taken in my workshop.
The sink in the background is for washing my hands and making gallons of tea.
Ji
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Ji, is this bike going to be at CD6 ? looks like a work of art!
I'm thinking of taking mine apart and starting again
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Hi mainline,
I am trying to get her ready for CD6 but there is so much to do with so little time left.
I will bring Miss CZ with me at what ever stage she is at on the day of departure.
I have spent so much time on her I will not have another bike ready to ride, but that is okay because it will give me more time to meet all the Ozvmx members I digitally talk to every day.
I hope I have motivated some people to renovate their bikes. I also hope I have shown others that this stuff is not that hard to do, it just takes time.
Ji
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From one of my topics about shocks and forks I meet four members that I have a great respect for.
BrentJ, JC, Eno and Walter(YSS).
BrentJ is always trying new things with his suspension and sparks interest in others.
JC has a very logical mind and he pushes me to think on a higher level than what I ever intended to on shocks.
Eno showed me a glimpse of how he installed PD valves in his CZ forks.
Walter really knows what he is talking about when it comes to forks and shocks. He helps people try and understand how they work and how to get the best from them. Unfortunately there are so many of us asking him the same questions every day.
I have already designed my rear shocks with Walters help and intended to fit PD valves to the forks before CD6 but I am not sure it will happen in time.
I will start a topic for all those that are interested as there does not seem to be a lot of info on the subject of installation. I believe that VMX magazine ran an article some time ago on "How To". For those that are interested, Caution! these things are not plug and play. They take quite a bit of time to set up, I have already spent 10 hours measuring my forks from inside out so I know how they work and what clearances I will have when the PD valves are installed. With Walters help and other members that have been through the installation I hope to present a really rich understanding of the inner workings of a fork.
Ji
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Now that both sides are mocked up I can make two brackets.
Ji
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Tank bracket.
I sheared off a piece of 20mmx3mm aluminium plate and rounded the end with a bench grinder.
Ji
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I completed the rounded end via a belt sander.
Ji
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I then drilled a 9mm hole for the bolt and chamfered the leading eadges so it does not scratch the paint during installation.
The second one is a different shape because of the inner curve of the tank.
They both have been deburred and sanded to a smooth surface.
Ji
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This Acrow prop idea works great to clamp the plates in place during attachment.
Ji
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C'mon Ji
It's been days - we need an update mate!
Dave Mac :o
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Hi Dave and all others,
I am like that White Rabbit in Alice in Wonderland
"I'm late I'm late for a very important date"
"No time to say hello good bye"
"I'm late I'm late I'm late !
CD6 is only 4 days away.
Ji
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tick tock tick tock .......
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Good luck Ji !
You have kept us informed so now it's time to throw everything at it and see how far you get without the rush (?)
Whatever stage it's at i am sure it will be well received at CD6
Dave Mac :D
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Ji, I've only just come across this thread and I have to say I'm amazed at your attention to detail. :P 8)
NASA should use you for quality control on Space Shuttle assembly... I'm impressed!
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Come on Ji - a quick update and pics
Dave Mac :D
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Just for you Dave Mac I got out of bed really early to post this.
The new steering head bearing kit comes with seals.
Place the first seal onto the steering post.
Ji
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With a tube and a rubber mallet install the bottom bearing.
Ji
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With a drift and a rubber mallet install both steering head bearing cups.
Ji
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Pack the lower bearing with grease.
Grease the steering post.
Ji
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Dave Mac will like this part.
The steering bearing preload nut has two notiches out of it. This requires a special tool to turn it. I don't have the time to wait for one to be delivered so I found some water pipe and dusted off the Mig welder.
Ji
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Pack the top steering bearing with grease and leave on the bench.
With a rubber mallet tap the lower triple clamp into the steering head.
Place the now greased top bearing on top of the steering post and tap into position. Install the bearing seal. Start the preload nut and turn down until it holds the triple clamp in place.
Place our still hot tool on to the nut and turn until the correct preload is achieved.
To much preload will damage the bearings not enough and you will get head shake when riding.
Ji
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Place the top triple clamp over the steering post and turn down the nut.
Ji
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Don't forget when fitting your handle bars that we have to plug the ends.
I use pine dowle.
The new fat bars all have different internal bores so it makes it hard to buy one size dowle to do the lot, but if you have a lathe no problems.
Metal lathes will work wood.
Ji
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The forks are next.
When you have all the parts ready to go and clean, lay them out on the bench in order they go back together.
Any new parts like my new HD rebound springs should be test fitted to see if they fit. Mine did not so out to the bench grinder to reduce their diameter.
The aluminium bushes and compression valve washers were very tight so I polished them as well.
Now every thing fits and we can assemble our forks.
Ji
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First assemble the dampener rod parts.
Ji
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Place the dampener rod assembly into the hard chrome tube and fix with the circlip.
Ji
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Install the new fork seals and retain with the circlip.
Ji
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Prelube the fork seal and the hard chrome tube and gently insert the hard chrome tube into the lower leg.
Push the hard chrome tube all the way down into the lower leg so the dampener rod will seat into its position.
Install a new s/s socket head bolt with a brass sealing washer and tighten.
If you get fork oil leaking out the bottom remove the dampener rod bolt and coat with gutter silicone and reinstall.
pour the correct amount and weight of oil into the fork and pump it a few times to remove air from the system. Install the spring and the fork is now ready to be placed into the triple clamps.
The fork cap bolt is installed last as it pulls the fork up into a taper in the top clamp.
Ji
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Back to the seat.
The new seat pan requires both brackets be manufactured.
I shaped the new rear bracket similar to the original one.
Installed the same as the front bracket.
Ji
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The new seat foam needs to be test fitted and trimmed so it sits flush on the pan.
Also pinch out some foam where the new bracket bolts are.
Ji
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With spray bond coat both the foam and the pan with glue and wait until tacky.
Use a glue that does not disolve foam.
When ready join the two together.
Ji
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Clamp the two together for the required time.
Ji
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This gripper seat cover I purchased was the hardest cover I have ever had to fit. The pattern created puckers everywhere.
I start by shooting a staple front and back to align the cover centrally.
Then I stretch the back from side to side and fix with more staples. I work the cover towards the front.
When everything looks good go back over the cover and add more reinforcing staples.
I use a compressed air stapler with 12mm long staples. You have to test what pressure to run the stampler at or it will just cut through the vinyle.
Ji
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As I said before nothing is plug and play.
I purchased a new carburettor and rubber connections.
Always use a cleaner with Scott towel on anything that leads to your engine.
Look at the filth that was on the intake rubber boot internal bore. That would have gone into the engine if I did not clean it.
Ji
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On ya Ji
Looks like things have been bubbling away nicely mate
More pics when time permits eh - not long to go now !!!!!!!!!!!
That steering head tool - priceless (literally and it did the job eh - that's all that matters!)
Keep working
Dave Mac :D
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Ji do we see this bike at CD6?
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Hi Shortshifter,
Yes, Miss CZ was at CD6 and completely finished.
She looked great.
On Monday before we packed up I wheeled her over to drunks hill jump and took a few snaps.
I did not see you there which was a disapointment.
I spoke to Fruity and Peter.
I hope to see you at Tambo.
Ji
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There's a pic of her under CD6 thread in General Discussion. She was even better 'in the flesh'
Great to meet you Ji
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Hi JC,
The pleasure was all mine.
Thanks for posting a photo of Miss CZ and the kind words.
I hope to talk with you real soon.
Ji
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This image was taken of Miss CZ in our camp.
Drying towels and tents in the back ground.
She just blended in with every thing else at CD6.
Ji