OzVMX Forum
Clubroom => General Discussion => Topic started by: evo550 on May 02, 2009, 01:47:59 pm
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Anyone else use this stuff and get a horrible orange stain on anything the fuel touches ???
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The orange will be from water in the fuel, makes to oil go that colour.
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I get the really nice purple tinge on anything it's on externally and internally I sometime get a bit of a glaze on the piston but I like the stuff. Actually use both R30 and A747 which is castor based also. A747 is primarily for karts and road racing but it works well in the 125mxer's too as they're ridden pretty much on the stop ;)
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I use the R30 as well its all good even the smell makes me happy ;D jimson
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yes the smell Jimson..pure gold! ;D I use it in my line trimmer, blower and 2 banger mower too and I'm still not sick of it 8)
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I use R30 in my modern 4 stroke @ 200:1, spupposedly to help the valves, but really just for the smell. I had a guy convinced I had model car nitro fuel in it at $16.00 per litre once. Smells great combined with avgas.
Cheers,
K
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Castrol Oils are now owned by BP ::) And yes they have wiped most BP oils off the books in Australia to sell their Castrol products and are "Reviewing" castor based and other low volume racing oils from Castrol now.................................... >:(
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Hey Guys,
Has anyone had any bad experiences running a full synthetic oil motul 800 at 30:1 in old yz orRM? As if there may be implications i'm all ears to save myself some grief..
Brett
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Isnt the "R " now sold in the square tin as "M" ? as in castor M
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there is 2 types of castrol R 1 for methenol and 1 for petrol
cheers
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i use r30 and the teenage years come flooding back ,its funny how certain aromas stir the emotions, its top shelf and its available at supercheap autos. its like smellig your mums roast dinner on a sunday. ;D.cheers bonehead.
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castrol m is for methenol r is for petrol.
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your right
years ago it was only castrol r or shell m.but times have changed now there is castrol m and shell m
still 2 types of castrol r
R30& R40
CHEERS
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Thank god for speedway bikes. Castrol R & methanol produces the best smell on the face of the planet.
Hey Guys,
Has anyone had any bad experiences running a full synthetic oil motul 800 at 30:1 in old yz orRM? As if there may be implications i'm all ears to save myself some grief..
Brett
Here's a quote from my experience in an older thread that may help you:
We've done a lot of work on oils, and it really varies from bike to bike. We couldn't stop a CZ bore glazing up on synthetics. I'd find that by the end of a raceday, I'd be noticeably down on power until we stripped it and honed the bore again. It was literally a mirror finish glaze. Motul, Rock Oil, Silkolene, Castrol R2; all the same result. What's good for modern nicasil, ain't necessarily good for iron sleeves.
We switched to Castrol A747 and it has worked very well. A lot of you guys would be familiar with this oil, although it's a little harder to find these days. A747 is a castor/synthetic hybrid. The fumes have quite obvious Castrol R qualities, and it works best at the richer end of the mixture range. Castrol recommends where you would run R2 synthetic at 40:1, you'd run 747 at 25:1.
Graham Bell's thinking holds true, especially in two stroke racing like karting. Air cooled sprint karts rev to silly numbers, and we always ran ours at 20:1 on Penrite mineral oil.
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Brett,been running Motul 800 in my ossa since "rebuild",(hone bore,select best rings, ::),mbrgs,& seals),no probs,but then i'm only doing 3lap races on dirt track,mix is approx 30-40 to 1,also using Motul gear oils in the gearbox/primary as well,all good so far :P
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Inside whisper from BP is stock up fellas, time is running out on Australian Castrol castor oils stocks, soon to be available only on overseas back order and the price..................... >:(
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Probably a dumb question but does Castrol R have a shelf life? I've got some that's been in the cupboard for at least 10 years.
I agree, it's the smell to die for. The methanol Castrol M smell brings back memories of the Sydney Showground Speedway every time I smell it.
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i was told somthing along the lines of shell was bought out by BP or whoever makes Castrol is cutting the lines so there will only be "M" on the shelf, but yere what he said its going to be sidetracked cause its not got enough cash in it.
maybe we start up a still in the back garden and buy up all the castor bean we can get for a massive brew up ! we can do like the wogs do with tomato sauce or clubs and port, we could have a make castor oil day and you get to take home a bottle.
yes im on drugs............... :P
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according to Mr Bell R30 is for watercooled motors and R40 is for aircooled motors
Penrite still make a castor oil too.
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I've been using it for a while now, compared to synthetic/mineral oils mixed at the same ratio it produces far less smoke and or black exhaust "Gunk". Oh and a smell to die for. not to mention it's $10 cheaper a litre
Problem is as I mentioned in original post, it has stained everything the mixed fuel touches ORANGE....it's a white bike.
I have a funny feeling silkolene also does a castor based oil also, might have a try at that to see if stains persist.
Has anyone tried the penrite stuff?
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i though the numbers where for seasons s in winter or summer
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i bought a box of Penrite castor oil maybe a year ago, but i cant seem to find it on their website.
also try Rock oil. I know they did have it but it will again be a matter of seeing if they still make it.
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Penrite still makes its castor oil also a HIper 2 stroke oil that I have been running in my 81 CR 125 at 25:1 for the last 3 years with great results and a good price too.
Andy Viper#70
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the Hiper 2 stroke oil replaced the TS40C Penrite oil which i found was really good, but the new stuff is not the same. The TS40C was approved for ultra lights but since they changed the formula/replaced it with the Hiper 2T oil it hasnt been approved and is not recommended for ultralights. The TS40C penrtite was a really good mineral oil for air cooled motors.
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I think unfortunately Evo the yellow stain on the white is part and parcel of the castor oil base. I don't think it would matter if it were Castrol, Silkolene or some other castor oil derivitive. I do recall the staining you mean and some KTM's I've seen suffered from it also, pretty ugly stuff. They say once mixed it should be used within 24 hours max so probably the tank should be drained when not in use. This then leads to the tank drying up and cracking if left dry. Damned if ya do and damned if ya don't as they say.
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do you remember Castrol M, Love the smell of R, can you still buy it.
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I get the orange stain as well. I wonder if all the others do it. I drain my tank after each ride.
Interesting to hear you are supposed to use it within 24 hours.
You can't beat the smell of it.
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where do you buy it.
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supercheap autos
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well that's the wordYZ250H. They say it starts to lose it lubricating properties after this time and being hydroscopic like brake fluid it absorbs moisture from various places such as the atmosphere and even from inside the tank and carb on a humid day. This can cause it to basically sludge up and thicken resulting loss of proper combustion and a drop in power. I've run the stuff after weeks in not so critical engines and there was little difference noted. I'm not so game to run it in my bikes after any sort of premixed duration beyond 48hrs max though as I value them a little more highly than my mowers, line trimmers, blowers or chainsaws ;)