OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => Suzuki => Topic started by: 80hybridRM400 on April 23, 2009, 11:20:04 am
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Hello,
My name is Morgan, I am 23, and live in Canada. First off, this is an awesome website! The VMX scene in Canada is pitiful.
I got my first VMX the other day. I was told it was a 1980 RM400 but upon looking at the frame, the stamping says RM250-47385. So that makes me think someone did an engine swap..... right? However I plan to restore it and call it a RM400. It needs quite a lot of work, but the main thing is the engine runs and has a new oversize piston in it. It's quite sad how they thrashed it, It will need new platics, rear axel, rear axel adjusters, new seat cover, drive sprog retainer(they spot welded it on!). Plus much more little bits and pieces I am sure, the frame is cracked in one place, so welding is in order. It will take a while to do, but I am ready for some fun lol.
I paid the younger kid $40 for the bike. I reckon I got a deal? What do you guys figure? was it worth it? and also I would appreciate any info you guys have on this bike and parts suppliers!
thanx so much
Morgan
p.s. my dad is a KIWI and I have heaps of reallies in OZ
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Good score at $40 :o this will help you get started...
http://www.vintage-suzuki.com/
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
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welcome to the forum Morgan,
yep! you got yourself a sweet deal there.
love them big RM's and good luck champ!
:)
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Just fix it up and race it Morgan. Don't worry about the numbers, it looks like a good starter to me and 40 bucks is a good deal whether it be Canuck, American or Aussie dollars. Welcome mate, eh!
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looks like you will be needing a new LHS case. It appears the chain has taken out your clutch push rod.
You will have no problem picking one up on Ebay USA ;)
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cant you just get the LH case welded? my 250 Z has damage there aswell from the chain, but i was just going to get it welded. Ive seen other guys get holes in that area welded up aswell on PE's
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Thank you all for the kind welcomes.
I think I can fix the expansion chamber, but does anyone on here know of a company that manufactures pipe for Vintage motocross bikes?
Got myself a mint condition seat today, turns out the origional owner had two of them, this one has brans new vinyl!
My Uncle Dean used to race a twin shock RM, but I can't remember what size it was tho.
Also if you guys are interested I have a few 1981 RM125 bits an pieces for sale or trade
thanx again
morgan
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G'day Morgan, you really were in the right place at the right time with that bike, good score! You are fortunately in the geographical centre of the universe when it comes to parts for vintage motocross bikes as near everything I buy comes from the US or Canada. If I were you I hunt up an original exhaust pipe. I'm sure one will come up on ebay if you keep an eye out. Also join the US yahoo TM/RM group and ask there. Like this site it's an excellent source of information and or parts but unlike this site the yahoo group is based in the US ;) Don't worry about it having a 250 frame as they were pretty much cast from the same mold and there is little if any difference excepting the stamped number. A frame like a pipe will pop up for sale sooner or later. Look for the original parts and keep it stock, it's worth more this way if you plan to sell later but in saying that a DG pipe or such certainly won't detract any value either. Don't be tempted to try and turn the bike into something it's not (i.e. - a modern) think of this bike as an investment because unlike the new models this bike should appreciate in value and it's right in the thick of things when it comes to being a fairly desirable model. Take good care of it and it will repay you one way or another ;)
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I plan to restore it to its origional condition. I pulled the head off of the engine last night and have found that the threads on the cylinder are buggered where one stud goes in, whats the best way to repair this, it catches a few threads but not much, I have been tempted to metal epoxy it in, like JB WELD( do you have that in OZ?)
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the same thing happened 2 my wifes rm80 i drilled the old hole out bigger taped a new tread then made a new stu that suited the larger hole and tread then laithed it down were the head went back on 2 standard size then put tread on it for the head nut presto problem solved
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Or simply buy a recoil kit ( master thread repair kit ) they cost around $40-00 .
Your JB weld method will not last
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I thought that might be the case, I will stop myself now, this is going to be my first project with "no cutting corners"
Where can I get new swingarm bearings?. Mine have become powder lol! I welded up the frame today, it was cracked just above the swingarm. Got the paint and sand paper, and will hopefully paint the frame tommorow.
I am excited to start a shopping list lol but I am not exc
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bloody hell you're moving quick ;D
Have you paint stripped the frame already, or are you planning on sanding it back? Could be a fair bit of time involved with the latter.
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A couple of good threads on welding frames too...
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=6186.0
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=1163.0
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All Balls do a swing arm kit . Don't buy steering head kit as it's wrong :)
Check you engine case for cracks in Behind the swing arm area ( that leads up to main out put shaft
Swingarms also wear on the top @ chain buffer
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you will find this place handy for all sorts of stuff like bearings, brake shoes, and engine parts
www.denniskirk.com
i was going to give you a link to a Moose brand steering kit but i cant find one listed for your bike and cant find the OEM part numbers on www.alpha-sports.com either to do a cross reference check on Zedder. I thought they might have been the same as The PE's but they dont come up as showing they are the same as RM400. The RM400 must have special size bearings maybe?
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Frame is painted lol....I got bored and decided to sand it and paint it tonight, it has 2 coats. I MIG welded the frame, and smoothed it out so it looks as though there was never a crack there to begin with. I weld by trade and drive truck, so I did it all after work at the boss's shop. He is quite an awesome guy, I can use the shop whenever I want and any tools. And that is exactly why I love living in a small village of 400 people, none of my friends employers in the cities would let them do that after hours lol.
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Upon finding numbers and info on the bike, I have now figured out exactly what it is, the chassis is a 1980 RM250 and the engine is a 1979 RM400. Were there any differences from the 79 to 1980 RM400 engines?
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looking better already, at this rate you'll be riding it by next week.
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Quite possible LOL. But I reckon that it won't, It just happens to work out that the first few steps in restoring are the cheapest, It will probably sit like that for a while. I sanded the fuel tank down with 180 grit paper then wet sanded it with 320, turned out ok, but I think I will go over it again with 180 and wet sand it again, there are still some sun faded pieces
Made a list
Mud guards
Number plate
Side panels
Swing arm repair (weld and new bearings)
Air filter
Handle bars
Chain
Rear brake assembly
Rear tire
Decals
plus other misc parts
Roughly $1000 Canadian
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if you use the forum search engine there's a couple of good threads on polishing plastics. LWC3077 also wrote a good article in a back issue of VMX Magazine if you can get your hands on it.
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if you use the forum search engine there's a couple of good threads on polishing plastics. LWC3077 also wrote a good article in a back issue of VMX Magazine if you can get your hands on it.
Anyone know which issue?
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sorry should have put that in, no33, the one with YZ250F on the cover
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issue 33
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VMX-Vintage-Motocross-Dirt-Bike-Magazine-Issue-33_W0QQitemZ370187461903QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Clothing_Merchandise_Media?hash=item370187461903
i for got to mention the otherday that you will need to go finer than 320 wet and dry. go to 400, then 800 and then 1200 and also use some scotch brite scouring pads. Ive forgotten after what grade paper though. Probably after 320 or 400.
after 1200 then polish with Jif
you can get Jif in Uk and europe etc but its marketed under another name. i think its called Cif and Vim in some countries
here you go
http://www.unilever.com/brands/homecarebrands/Cif.aspx
http://www.unilever.com.au/ourbrands/homecare/Jif.asp
http://www.unilever.co.uk/ourbrands/homecare/cif.asp
http://www.unilever.ca/ourbrands/homecare/vim.asp
theres a few other polishes available at auro shops you can use after Jif for a more deeper glossy finish but the Jif is pretty good
you will be able to get your tank nice and glossy and probably better than new if you put the time and effort into it.
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sorry should have put that in, no33, the one with YZ250F on the cover
Of course it is... that's the one I lent to a Contractor coz he'd missed out at the Newsagent. Still awaiting it's return. :-\ :'( >:(
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LWC3077....thank you for the tips. I plan on going over it again, as the tank needs some plastic welding, so I will smooth her out after that, I can;t believe how nice the tank looked after a little rub LOL