OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => CZ => Topic started by: Ji Gantor on March 16, 2009, 01:24:50 pm
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Two weeks ago I received a couple of boxes of parts from the states for my CZ restore.
Just in case some members have not seen them before or want to know what is the difference or problems with them I will post some images and facts to help my fellow members.
The first item is the chain tensioner.
The CZ400 1973 came out with only a chain guide so this new chain tensioner should help with keeping the chain on the sprockets and also stop the chain from flinging around and hitting the shock spring.
The stock chain guide weighed 385g while the new chain tensioner weighs 500g.
Ji
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The second item is the air box.
The original CZ air box is made from steel and weighs in at 935g.
The new one is made from plastic and only weighs 432g.
The stock air filter fixing bolt is welded to the box in a position so the filter leans rearward.
The new plastic one just has a hole in the bottom of it and a rubber washer to seal the hole.
I will mill up some nylon so the bolt will be at the right angle and should be a better seal.
Ji
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The original carb on the CZ was a Jikov 34mm.
I selected a Mikuni with all the bells and whistles.
This kit virtually does come with everything including jetting.
Ji
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The steering head bearings are the old type that have loose balls and when you separate the steering the balls go every where. There is nothing wrong with this system but there is an alternative.
Tapered needle roller bearings that are the same dimensions as the stock ones.
Ji
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Terry Cables make these beautiful braided stainless steel cables to suite Magura levers, Gasser throttle and Mikuni carb.
Ji
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The original air filter was a paper type weighing 180g.
Uni Filters makes a replacement that is a dual foam type with a steel cage. It weighs 140g.
Ji
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The original guards were made of alloy and fiberglass and were a little fragile from the magazine tests I have read. I do not have an original front guard because my was replaced with an after market plastic one but with that said the old alloy, fibreglass and plastic guards weighed 1356g.
The new ones are all gloss plastic and only weigh 1186g.
Ji
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I like to spice up my engine with stainless steel allan key screws. These always look great.
This is the complete engine set including washers (95 piece I think, I am not counting them). They weigh 436g. I have not yet stripped out the existing bolts so I don't know what they weigh.
Ji
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Some companies in the States still make the metal airfilter cap.
Very nice job.
Ji
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I am going to replace the original CZ (Jikov I think) throttle with a Swedish made Gasser.
There are cheap Asian copies of this throttle but I have paid the extra to get the real deal. This should look nice combined with the braided stainless steel cables.
Ji
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I like colour, so I always try and colour match the grips with the bike.
These are an after market pair that I have used before in the past.
Ji
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The original 73 fuel tank was made of steel.
I imported a second hand alloy 1974 tank because I love the look of polished alloy tanks on old bikes. This tank will have to be polished and have the stickers positioned. I would also like to place the knee pads on (not that I have had any luck finding the original rubber knee pads with the word CROSS on them) as this would look smick .
The alloy tank weighs 1888g,
The replacement plastic tank weighs 1542g and
I cannot tell you what the original steel one weighs because I don't have one.
Ji
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I would love to show an image of a new pair of inner hard chrome fork tubes but I can not.
Past member Eno (great guy and CZ owner in NZ) posted a topic about how good the parallel flange fork tubes are and how they allow you to run PD valves and larger diameter springs.
After reading his post I then spent 3 weeks trying to track down a set.
Unfortunately my research found that they don't make them like that any more because as the manufacturer stated "90% of them came back bent". So they stiffened them up by inserting a stiffener inside the hard chrome tubes and now they have the same internal diameter as the stock CZ ones. I see no advantage in them any more unless you can not find a pair of CZ ones.
Ji
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So Ji, how much weight have you saved :) And how much did it cost you :(.
Looking good Ji, you should end up with a shiny new bike in quick order.
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Hi mx250,
This topic was started to show new parts that some members may be thinking of but have not seen yet and to give some random facts about what I have found so far. The weights have been supplied for those that are compulsive and those that may find it interesting. I will be replacing all these original parts weather or not there is a weight saving. From my research on CNCed New trick triple clamps and swingarms are that they weigh more than the original parts but that they look good and stiffen the chassis.
I feel it will look great by the time I am done.
As to how much it all cost, that is a moving target with the way the postage is and the exchange rate.
Let us say a lot.
Ji
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Ji where did you get the Terry cables and genuine Gunnar Gasser throttle from?
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Hi JohnnyO,
I purchased them from CR High Performance in the States.
Charlie did not know that the braided S/S Terry cables even existed until I told him they did and that yes I wanted them. Charlie was great and supplied bonus parts I did not even request or pay for.
Ji
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Thanks.. Do they have a web site?
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Hi JohnnyO,
Yes they do.
Les at Mainly Maico here in Australia also has the Gasser for sale for about the same money.
Ji
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Ji old mate
I don't even have a CEEZEE and I am finding these posts very interesting - the bike will be a head turner with a lot of very practical mods. Do you have any progress pics including the new parts or are you in the hunter gatherer mode assembling all the bits you'll need?
You can't check out of the forum now - we want to see the finished article and get a full cost break down
Dave Mac ;D
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Hi maicomc490t,
I have a Maico too and love the cutting edge technology that both CZ and Maico factories produced.
Though Maico never won a world title, I feel the bike was the best in its class back in the day. I am not trying to start any arguments about which bike is best but these two marques must have warmed others hearts due to the fact the parts are being remanufactured to cater for demand.
There are no images yet of progress because I like so many other restorers like to assembly all the parts first and install them onto the chassis before the chassis goes off for powder coating. I have found that some remanufactured parts don't fit exactly like the old ones and sometimes frame brackets are bent. These fitment problems are easily solved before the frame is painted but are blood pressure raisers after.
I will keep posting the progression of the bike so it will help others and may be inspire those to fix up their once proud speedsters.
Ji
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Magura levers made in Germany.
Ji
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New Pro Form Racing muffler system.
Made in the States.
Ji
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Forged steel gear lever made in the States.
Ji
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Steel counter shaft sproket.
I think it is made in the States.
Ji
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Alloy rear sproket made in the States.
It only weighs 252g.
Ji
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New plastic seat base.
Made in the States.
Weight is 468g.
Ji
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Racing seat foam.
Made in the States.
Weight is 1240g.
Ji
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Gripper seat cover.
This is the highest quality seat cover I have ever seen.
I think it is made in the States.
All up the seat assembly weighs 2000g.
The stock CZ seat assembly weighs 2256g.
Ji
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Bloody Hell Ji,this thing is going to be the ducks nuts you are not doing anything by half measure.Is the engine ok or that getting a going over too?
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Hi Shortshifter,
Thanks for your kind words.
From what I can see through the exhaust port the engine has new piston and rings and the bore has been honed. The clutch looks cool. I have purchased all the components to set up the points system because the CDI for these is $700.00 and I just don't have the money at this time. I tried kicking the engine over when I first got it and it has so much compression my 86kilos just hovered on top of the kick lever.
So to answer your question, I was going to send the engine to Les at Mainly Maico but after discussions with Les and photos of what I have found during the strip down it has been decided to install it as it is.
Ji
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New piston and rings.
Ji
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When the new parts turn up I always take the time to take a good look at them for any imperfections. I also unite them with their bike buddy to see they fit.
The new muffler system fits into the existing header pipe but (lets say) during transit the silencer end flange became bent. This deformation prevents the circlip and silencer from being removed. I need to check to see if the silencer has been packed so out comes the dolly and brass hammer.
Ji
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A few minutes later the flange was back to where its designer intended it to be.
I removed the circlip and silencer and yes it had been packed.
Ji
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This muffler has what is called a factory finish.
Some bike owners love this finish, while others do not.
There are a few different ways to finish this muffler to suite all owners.
The first is as is and let it rust a little bit.
The second is to spray oil on to the muffler and let the heat from the engine caramelise it so you still get the factory finish but if done right it will not rust.
The third way is to use a heat proof paint and give it a protective coating. The reason heads, cylinders and mufflers are painted black is to disperse heat. The colour black disperses more heat than any other.
The fourth would be some kind of nickel coating and so on until you run out of money.
I like my pipes to be black to disperse as much heat as possible and to prevent rusting.
That said I now have to prepare the pipe for paint.
The blue ring around all the welds has to be removed. This blue is from the heat and is oxidation or the beginning of rust.
Ji
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After about a minute the blue ring is gone along with the baked on flux.
I used a wire brush attached to an air die grinder.
This surface is now starting to look good.
Ji
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JI I MIGHT SEND A MAICO TO YOU AND I CAN SIT BACK AND WATCH FOR A CHANGE ;)
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After an hour or so the wire brush has done the job.
Now for the finishing touch, take some 400 weight wet and dry and give the pipe a sand in the long direction. This will line up the grain in the metal so the paint sits flat.
When ever working on pipes always ware latex gloves or the sweat from your hands will start it rusting before you are finished. With a mineral turps soaked rag give the pipe a good clean and then place it in the sun to dry.
Ji
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The manufacturer has pride in his work and to show this they have attached a plaque with their name on it. Unfortunately for us restorers this plate makes it hard to finish the pipe right, so we have to decide will we cut it off or can we work around it. Before cleaning I played with the plate so it will be easy to paint later.
Ji
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Once it is dry and warm time to give it a hit with the heat proof primer.
Looking good.
Ji
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I have made up a quick shield to stop over spray.
This is to let the red paint coat the pipe as a background for the makers mark.
Ji
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With the shield in place I have sprayed a coat of red paint to high light the makers mark.
It will need another coat of red before the black paint is applied.
Ji
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Hey Ji, what size is the main jet in the new carby ?? HL
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Hi HL400,
What carb have you got.
Ji
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its a Mikuni same as yours. it should be hear tomorrow, I got it from Les.
but I have been getting as much infomation as I can as I have to race it this Sunday at Ravenswood in Vic so I am working out what jets I should take with me HL
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Les knows what he is doing.
If you are running the engine and pipe in stock preparation what Les has supplied should work great.
The Carb on mine is a Mikuni 34mm I purchased from CR High Performance in the States. Charlie fitted a 270 main jet. I would be very interested in finding out what Les has put in yours.
But as I said Les is very good at this stuff and what ever he has given you will be the right thing.
Don't chase your tail, fit the carb and go ride it. I am sure it will produce plenty of power at sea level.
Please do let me know what les has supplied, it will be good to see if Charlie of CR suggests some thing different to Les.
Ji
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ji
its not just the main jet check all out against the cz mikuni chart i sent you.ie
piolet jet
needle jet
needle
cheers
jim
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Hi mx250,
Just for us technocrats.
So far the weight reduction from swapping out parts is 5.5kilos.
That brings the bike down to 99kilos.
Ji
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The new rear spokes I purchased from CZ Stuff in the UK have a larger diameter than the stock CZ ones. This means that to fit them all the spoke holes on the rear hub have to be drilled out and the spoke head area has to be counter sunk or the rear sprocket will not fit over the spokes.
This was not explained on the above web site which has lead me back to John Titmans to get some more spokes made.
If any one would like some new HD s/s rear spokes for their CZ let me know as I do not intend drilling out my hub.
Ji
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There are some after market swingarms available for CZ's and the following one is known as a CJ. I believe it is made from chrome molly and its big advantage is to stiffen the rear end, oh yeah, and look COOL. It cost about $450.00USD and weighs 3.2kilos.
Ji
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The stock CZ 1974 swingarm is not technically a new part but this is what I am going to fit to my 1973 frame. It will stiffen up the rear end and only weighs 2.9kilos. It cost quite a bit less then the CJ and looks more at home on the bike. After all I don't want to change the look of a CZ, because the look is why I want one.
Ji
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The stock CZ 1973 swingarm was considered to flexible because the section attaching the rear axle was just the chrome molly tube squashed flat which gives very little side ways resistance.
Ji
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I haven't seen a square box swingarm for the Zeds before, CJ you say? Would that be C & J?
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Those 73 & earlier swingarms with the flattened ends did flex a bit.
The 74 was a much better design keeping the full tube width axle slot.
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Most of those photo's will not open for me.
This is my CZ / CMS replica
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a393/gmcloa/CMSframe-2.jpg)
The bare frame weighs in around 7.8 Kg
The bare swingarm around 2.3 Kg
I also make the swingarms with the shock mounts at the rear the same as the 74, I sell them for $638.00
They are made from 4130 Cro-Mo & come complete with snail cam adjusters, needle roller bearings, sleeves & seals.
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Not sure exactly how much the pipe weighs, most of them are around 3.5 Kg
This is a bit heavier than some of the US pipes I have seen as mine are usually thicker material (1.2mm)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a393/gmcloa/73CZ400pipe.jpg)
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The original CZ header pipe weighs 1054g and the Pro Form Racing muffler weighs 2300g so all up 3.35kilos. The original muffler weighed 2600g so the original exhaust system weighed 3.654kilos.
So the GMC pipe is a quality product weighing in at 3.5kilos.
Ji
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The muffler now has two coats of heat proof paint.
I just have to wait for it to dry so I can remove the sheild so I can see how the logo came out.
Ji
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After removing the overspray mask the logo on the new muffler looks like this.
The next time I have to paint this pipe I am going to grind the name plate off, I only did this to show what could be done.
Ji